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JettsPapa

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Everything posted by JettsPapa

  1. JettsPapa
    I'd go ahead and start feeding lightly, but also keep testing your water daily and do water changes as needed to keep your combined ammonia and nitrites ideally below 0.5 ppm, but definitely below 1.0 ppm.
  2. JettsPapa
    Welcome to the forum. As far as cleaning the tank, of course chlorine will work, but then you have to make sure you get all of it out since it's also toxic to fish. Instead I'd suggest wiping down all the surfaces with vinegar, then wipe them down again with clean water. I'm pretty sure that will kill any harmful residue from the lizard.
  3. JettsPapa
    Welcome to the forum.
  4. JettsPapa
    Intuitively I'm concerned about what it might do to the pH, but that's just speculation, and it really bugs me when people post something they "think" or "heard" as established fact. I'm interested to see what other responses you get. By the way, you're right about blue shrimp looking good on light substrate. My blue tank has pool filter sand.
  5. JettsPapa
    I use pool filter sand in almost all of my tanks, and like it, but I also don't get hung up on it staying clean. Now that I have that out of the way, if you want something darker have you considered Black Diamond sandblasting sand? It takes a lot of cleaning, but once you get past that it's a good substrate. I have it in my red neocaridina tank.
  6. JettsPapa
    Can someone please explain to me why excess oxygen in the water is a bad thing? I don't know if mine has it or not, but since it's not uncommon for there to be tiny bubbles on plants and the sides of my tank for several hours after a water change I'd think it's likely. I don't age my water, or temperature match for that matter, and on the larger tanks it's not uncommon for them to be refilled by dragging a hose through a door or window from outside. I haven't lost a fish, or observed any distress, in either tank in months. I am on a well, so chlorine or chloramine isn't an issue.
  7. JettsPapa
    I would definitely encourage you to get live plants. They can help with removing ammonia and nitrates from the water, and will also take up nutrients that could otherwise go to algae. In addition to that, some fake plants can harm bettas fins. When you get ready to move just remove the plants, seal them up in plastic bags with a little water, and replant them when you get to the new house. They may melt back some while adjusting to the new water parameters, but if they do just remove any dead leaves and give them time. They should be fine.
  8. JettsPapa
    I have Black Diamond blasting sand in one tank and pool filter sand in the rest. I use Easy Green twice per week, and the plants are thriving in all of them.
  9. JettsPapa
    I'll add my vote for a gift card; either to the Aquarium Co-op or a locally owned fish store. That way he can get what he wants instead of you guessing.
  10. JettsPapa
    I don't have honey gouramis, but my daughter-in-law has some and we're getting our water from the same well. I do have sparkling gouramis and pearl gouramis, along with several species of tetra, all thriving in 8.2 pH water. My advice would be to leave it alone. Most fish will do better in water that's slightly outside their "ideal" range than they will in water parameters that are fluctuating because the fish keeper is chasing the perfect conditions. Consistency is best. By the way, you didn't ask, but most gouramis are social fish and do better in groups. If you have room I'd encourage you to get a male and two female honeys instead of just one.
  11. JettsPapa
    I forgot one (I'm old. It happens.). Last fall, at 59 years old, my doctor put me on medication for high blood pressure and high cholesterol. I decided I'd like to get off both of them, or at least reduce the dosage, so I started walking in an attempt to get in better shape. I walk every day, weather permitting. I started out at 1 mile per day at a leisurely pace, and slowly increased distance and pace until now I'm at 17 minutes per mile, and try to walk far enough each day to keep my daily average at 3 miles, so it's quite often 4 miles or more to make up for days I skip. I had started being more active outside last spring when I started working from home, so since then I'm down around 25 pounds. I plan to lose at least that much again next year, which will put me right at 200 pounds. After that we'll see.
  12. JettsPapa
    I have a 20 gallon long on a two-drawer file cabinet, a 10 gallon tank on a small chest of drawers, and my daughter-in-law has a 55 on a sideboard. Both of mine have a piece of 3/4" plywood under them to spread out the load, and in all three cases the furniture is slightly larger than the tank in all four directions. This keeps stress off the tank, and also keeps its weight over the furniture supports instead of in the middle. And I just remembered that I have two 5.5 gallon shrimp tanks end-to-end on the end of my large schoolteacher type desk.
  13. JettsPapa
    I can't get a good look at the one in the first picture, but I'd say it's very likely that they're all trilineatus. True julliis are rarely offered for sale.
  14. JettsPapa
    When I hover my cursor on it, here is what I get:
  15. JettsPapa
    I would agree with the above about avoiding them. Black neon tetras are one of my favorites. They're beautiful fish and seem to be very hardy. Serpae tetras are another one of my favorites, and are especially attractive in planted tanks. Whichever species you choose, I'd encourage you to get a good-sized group. Six is often used as a minimum size for shoaling fish, but I prefer a minimum of eight, and more is always better if you have room.
  16. JettsPapa
    Black neon tetras are one of my favorites. They have a very dark blue band running the length of their bodies, with a lighter blue band above it that's fluorescent when the light hits it just right. They also seem to have fewer health problems than the common neons.
  17. JettsPapa
    I don't have any problems getting them to stick underwater, but there are a couple things to watch out for. The glass has to be clean. If there's a thin layer of algae or anything similar they won't stick. Take a razor blade scraper and clean the glass first. I learned the hard way that they won't stick if I press too hard. Just moderate pressure and they stick fine.
  18. JettsPapa
    You're probably right about your pH being the problem. I haven't kept them, but it's my understanding that caridina shrimp need lower pH. I'd suggest trying neocaridina shrimp. My water is also 8.2 pH, and while that's outside the "ideal" range for them mine are doing fine, and have been for almost a year. All my colonies are growing. If you water is hard then by definition I believe it has minerals.
  19. JettsPapa
    I believe he meant to get rid of it, as in flush it down the toilet.
  20. JettsPapa
    65 gallons, with a single koi angelfish, a pair of super red bristle nose plecos, and schools of Lake Kutubu rainbowfish, black neon tetras, lemon tetras, and panda corys. 40 gallon breeder, with 8 pearl gouramis, a single fat little bent-spine female betta, and schools of corydorus trillineatus, serpae tetras, and pristella tetras. 20 gallon long, with sparkling gouramis, pygmy corys, kubotai rasboras, dwarf emerald rasboras, and celestial pearl danios. 10 gallon with my red neocaridina colony, and a few mystery fry that apparently came from the 20 gallon as eggs on some guppy grass. 5.5 gallon with my blue neocaridina colony. 5.5 gallon with cull neocaridinas. When I find some panda corys to fill out the school in the 65 it will be the quarantine tank, and after that I'm seriously considering a pea puffer.
  21. JettsPapa
    What's the pH in the two tanks?
  22. JettsPapa
    Using zip ties won't hurt anything, but you mentioned turning off heaters and filters during water changes. I don't know if you're interested, but I have all my heaters low enough (even if they're very near horizontal) that they stay below the water during water changes, and my HOB intakes also stay in the water, so I never turn anything off.
  23. JettsPapa
    I can't help but wonder if something else is going on. While I agree they should be at zero, 0.25 ppm each of ammonia and nitrites shouldn't be killing your fish.
  24. JettsPapa
    It might not be their ideal, but I disagree that there aren't a lot that will handle 8.2 pH. My water is 8.2, and I have trilineatus, pandas, and pygmaeus that are thriving.
  25. JettsPapa
    I'd recommend stopping the Stability. I see no reason to use it with a fishless cycle, and it might be throwing off your test results. Since your tank is processing the ammonia quickly it sounds like you're very close to having the cycle completed.
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