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  1. I confess, it is true... I don't: do any cycling on a new aquarium and I put fish in moments after the water goes in to the new aquarium have a quarantine aquarium or think about quarantining new fish rinse my baby brine shrimp Probably the first 2 are much more serious sins than the 3rd one. I think I get away with the first one because all my tanks are dirty and I use a lot of hornwort. I think I get away with second one because most new fish go into their own (uncycled) new aquarium (or maybe it is just luck and I just haven't run out the string yet). I pretty sure @Dean’s Fishroom would give me demerits for the 3rd one, but it is my lazy way of providing trace elements to my fish 🙂.
  2. Ok I bought a 32 gallon about 4 years ago.. When I started I got an angel, pearl gourami and a albino common pleco. I left the tank 2 weeks using the bottle my pet guy gave me and doing nothing else 😛 I put them all in the tank and they grew and were happy with my sponge filter and hang on the back and so on. Well I was an armature.. I scrubbed, I cleaned with new water I freaked at algae you name it I did it but the main fish lived. Well a few months in I think ok I'm adding mollies and guppys and corydoras everything died in a month. Then it got bad and my angel started laying eggs and anything I put in the tank she was killing and she eventually started attacking the gourami. Now I was still new and didn't really know what route to take here so I put the angel fish to sleep thinking the gourami is fine and my problems will be ok. Well she also died due to so much injury. Now I have a fresh tank with nothing but 1 catfish cool right.. I give it a good clean and run out and get 6 guppies and 2 African dwarf frogs. Then the tank starts leaking! I get a 20 gal tote I move everyone over Including there water. I reseal the tank and all is good. I put all the decorations back and fill the tank.. But I didn't give it the time it needed to reacclimate so i take 20 gal of brand new fresh water dechlorinated and transfer all the fish over. immediately they are gasping for air and within min I killed them all! I'm not at all feeling like the fish witch. So I take it slow this time I put a new sponge filter in the tank and take out the over the hanging one. I put in the canister media one I and had had in the previous tank and I got some seachem prime and i'm good right? Go get 2 more frogs just start simple... I got some java fern and a few Anubis like ok plants are good been watching lots of co op videos and KGTropicals videos and i'm thinking I got this. Add 5 neon tetras and everything is great no issues everyone is happy. Then I think ok I want a betta for the center piece fish here it's in my daughters room and she will love it. I finally get a test kit.. yes just now. OMG my ammonia is at 8!! I immediately start changing water at like 50% every other day for 2 weeks. And you guess it I look a frog.. So umm asking other fish people now I have got ammo lock to use, I have 3 crypts the java fern and 2 Anubis and some frog bite in there. I have dumped mass amount of bottled bacteria to simulate it's growth. I checked my own water no ammonia.. MY TANK WONT CYCLE! I now do 25% change every week sometimes 2 times if the ammonia gets to high but it is almost always 4 or above when I check.. My 5 gal betta tank no issues runs wonderful has perfectly cycled with an adorbs baby in it. I know places I went wrong but i'm on 3 months with the same fish, adding plants and doing regular water changes shouldnt have cycled?
  3. Mr. Fish has an early case of dropsy. Using only a bit of epsom salt and kanaplex as directed. Have had tank cycled with ZERO issues for a year. (ie ammonia always has been 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 20 - 40 (only around 40 a few times), PH always 8.2 (high I know but stable) with same values as recent as 3 days ago. Nitrates were a bit higher (30). I just did first dose of Kanaplex yesterday. I tested the water tonight (as I have been every few days lately due to his initial inactivity) and for the first time ever Ammonia is reading 0.25-0.35 ish. Nitrites 0 Nitrates 20. PH 8.2 All parameters are the same except Ammonia. I changed 25% of water a couple of hours prior to yesterday's Kanaplex dose. Same filter media in place as has been (sponges - several). No carbon. No UV. Temp at 70-72. I found a forum online with a fella that had an immediate 1.0 ammonia reading after kanaplex and he emailed seachem. (using API master as well) He copied their reply several days later stating that lab folks confirmed kanaplex CAN give a false reading for ammonia. I'm wondering if it simply killed off my good bacteria or do I trust this may be a false reading. So - next dose due tomorrow after a 25% water change, and I'm wondering this: 1. Do I risk another dose or stop? 2. Can I add some 'safe start' BB or will the meds simply go to work on that vs the issue at hand?? 3. And would safe start help fast enough IF ammonia spikes again or higher? 4. Is it possible or has anyone experienced kanaplex giving a false reading? 5. Is there any thoughts or ways to confirm false reading vs an actual cycle crash? Also, I am in Canada so access to most of what I'd like to have on hand is slow or impossible. API has an ammo-lock but haven't read reviews or details to know much about how helpful that will be. Plus I dislike adding much more. For water treatment, I use API Stress Coat +, but thankfully our well water shows 0 for anything concerning. I compare my tap water to my tank often and not a lot of difference shows. Appreciate any ideas or thoughts. I'm on NO sleep (fish watch) so could be missing something super obvious.
  4. Zipgun

    Med quartet?

    I have 4 quarantine tanks running right now, all local wild caught fish. Did the med trio treatments and separate levamisole treatments. Everything looked good after a few weeks- one ammonia spike, my fault, and a few jumpers, but majority came out fine. Then two of the tanks came down with a nasty bacterial infection that was shrugging off the maracyn when I target treated the tanks. Aggressive infection that went from some small patches to most of the body over night. I then switched to a combo of maracyn ( which mostly treats gram positive bacteria) and Fuan-2 (which treats mostly gram negative bacteria) and the combo knocked the infections down in two days. (I am going to repeat the duo-treatment after a water change) Now that I know that the local waters are likely to have a gram negative bacteria present I will stat using Furan-2 as part of the quarantine process. I may try just adding it to the med trio and make it a quartet in one of the next batch of quarantine tank and see how it goes. Has anyone else tried mixing a medication for gram negative bacteria in their med trio quarantine process?
  5. I have a 29gallon tank that's challenging. Weeks 2-4 I was doing a water change of about 6 gallons once a week, I'm always treating water with conditioner and adding bacterial supplement with w/c. The filter is a TopFin Silenstream HOB on maximum flow with cut-to-size sponge, a pre-filter sponge, a bag of bioballs (and currently zeolite, but was previously carbon), and I have a Tetra Whisper 1-3gal in there to keep it cycled for another project I have in mind. Tank also has an airstone with a gentle stream of bubbles. Week 1, set up tank, add bag of gravel from existing tank and bacterial supplement over the week (Seachem Stability). Add a moss ball, Java Moss. Week 2, move over half of media from well seasoned (5 years) tank into filter, move over half of fish (1 betta, 3 black neon tetras) add leafy plants and a few small single stem plants. Week 3, Add 3 glowlight tetras, a small handful of and salivinia. Week 4, Add 3 glowlight tetras Week 5, Add 4 guppies and larger stem plant - this is where the problem starts. A couple days after this, 3 glowlight tetras are showing fin rot, one looks to have a bacterial infection, pull out all the glowlight tetras to a hospital tank, treat them. Test the 29 gal, slightly elevated ammonia at 0.3ppm. Do a 50% water change, add extra bacterial supplement, salt at 1tbsp per 5 gals. Ammonia drops. Reduced feeding. Week 6 - One fish has a single ich spot, betta has whiteish coating on head, a guppy has clamped fins. Pull out carbon and treat with Jungle Lifeguard All-In-One (limited choices here in Canada). Lose a guppy the next day. Lose another one 2 days later. Other fish improving. Test water 24h after treatment completed, ammonia at to 1.3-2.6ppm (hard to read the colour on these tests), do a 60% water change, add 3/4cup zeolite in filter, everyone seems happier. Week 7 (this week) - Population is now 1 betta, 3 black neons, 2 guppies and a few bladder snails. Test ammonia 36h after week 6 w/c, still elevated at 0.6-1.2ppm, do 50% w/c. Next day do 40% w/c, refresh zeolite, down to 0.3ppm. My w/c percentages are based on how full the tank looked when I remembered to stopped the syphon, nothing scientific going on there. Add Guppy Grass. Test the next day (yesterday) and the ammonia is at 0.3-0.6ppm, a guppy has clamped fins and betta is being a more aggressive than usual. The water seems cloudier. Add Melafix and bacterial supplement, check for melting/browning plants and pull a few little leaves out. All fish accounted for. All along my tests for everything other than ammonia are normal for my water, a bit softer than my well established (5 years) tank. The plants are all growing, especially the Java Moss. The only plants that were dying were salivinia, I suspect they are sensitive to salt, I yanked the browning ones out to prevent any ammonia coming from them. I think the initial health issue with the glowlight tetras was likely caused by a bit of ammonia due to extra bioload along with some bacterial thing they brought with them (definitely quarantining from now on!) but since then, is it possible that the All-In-One treatment reduced the bacteria in the tank? With plant growth, and first signs of algae on the decor items, the cycle *has* to be happening right?? But why is my water clouding and I'm reading ammonia, even with the reduced bioload and much reduced feeding compared to when the glowlight tetras and 2 extra guppies were in there? Frustrating... With only 6 fish and a bunch of plants I feel like this tank should barely need my attention, and yet the cloudy water screams "test me, change me". With ammonia currently at 0.3-0.6ppm (less than 0.01ppm NH3 based on my pH of 7.1 and temp of 77F), should I be doing water changes or allowing it to stimulate more bacteria and test daily to keep on top of any increase? In this same time period I've also set up a 2.5 gallon tank, which theoretically should be the harder one to manage, and it's golden, with 4 ember tetras and an african dwarf frog, which seems like a higher bioload for the size of the tank. I really wish I hadn't had to treat the 29 gal tank, I feel like it really messed things up. Advice welcome! 🙂
  6. I have a mystery on my hands. I have a new setup that is heavily stocked (6 Honey Gourami and 6 Panda Cory in a 12 gallon long) enough that it should be producing nitrates. It was fish-less cycled and the fish have been in for two weeks (Gouramis) and one week (Cories). The fish are all eating well and producing waste. I am experienced in fish-keeping so am confident that I cycled the aquarium properly and kept the ammonia load high enough to sustain this load of fish. Just to be safe, I added Turbostart when introducing the Gouramis. Here is the mystery-- the water tests as 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and confusingly 0 nitrate. The aquarium is planted but only with Anubias which should not absorb nitrates this fast. I have tried fertilizing the aquarium with Easy Green and testing the water the next day. Each time the readings are the same-- I dose Easy Green to 20-30 ppm nitrates and it is back to zero by the next morning. I have tested using both test strips and API liquid tests multiple times with the same results. I don't to want to keep dumping more and more Easy Green in until I know what is happening in case something other than the plants absorbing the nitrates is going on because I am worried about causing a buildup of phosphate, iron, etc... My possible theories (though none seem likely): 1. There is enough anubias to rapidly and completely absorb large amounts of nitrates even though the light is relatively low and there is no CO2 injection. 2. The excessive filtration on the tank (a Fluval 306) containing large amounts of Biohome Ultimate (4 pounds) is doing the complete cycle that the media is advertised to do. The filter has only been running for 6 weeks, though, which is far less than the 4-6 months PondGuru quotes for establishing anaerobic bacteria to consume nitrates. 3. I have no idea??? Help!
  7. I'm a bit of a novice so looking for some guidance. I've had my 36 gallon for just over a month now. Initially added some water sprite and Christmas moss and a whole bottle of Fritz zyme. Running an aquaclear 50 filter with intake sponge. Initially Ammonia jumped to 1ppm and nitrites got to about .5ppm. After about a week ammonia dropped to .25ppm and nitries to 0ppm so we added our school of 13 neon tetras. Ammonia stayed at .25ppm with nitrites still at 0ppm so we added our Honey Gourami and 6 emerald Corys. Same readings so we added our 2 zebra Loaches, adult bristle nose Pleco and a baby koi angel. Ammonia has now floated between .5ppm and 1ppm. I'm doing larger water changes (30-40%) every couple days and treating the water with prime and everyone in the tank is doing fine, however the ammonia is still not dropping. I'm definitely not over feeding and am only feeding 6 days a week. Nitrates are consistently around 10ppm and the plants are thriving and we've recently had a brown algae bloom. I just added some extra bio media to the filter 2 days ago since there was room in there. I had ammonia pads in there but that didn't seem to help. Am I just being impatient here? Shouldn't my ammonia levels be dropping? They've never surpassed 1ppm and based on using an ammonia calculator my free ammonia level should be safe for the fish but I'm still treating with Prime out of an abundance of caution. I just tested again this morning and got 1ppm so gonna do another large water change. I realize I probably jumped the gun a bit on adding fish but the bottom of the tank is definitely clear of detritus with all the water changes I'm doing and like I said I am sure I am not over feeding. Do I just need to allow more time for the cycle to complete?
  8. Having a major issue in my planted 38 gal growout tank. The water got cloudy, my Guppies and Plecos started swimming oddly (less active), Guppies flashing for a couple days, and today I had a mass loss of Bristlenose Plecos (lost over 15 today). The Paleatus Cory adults and fry seem to be unaffected. Nothing obviously wrong with the deceased plecos. No issues in my other tanks also with the same types of fish using the same tap water for water changes. The only thing that I can think of is that the cycle got out of whack or got reset (testing showed the cycle completed the first time), stocked too fast after cycling or overfed. I have done a 50% water change for the last three days straight treating using Prime and added my pre-seeded Ehiem 2213 to the tank from another tank to try to add additional beneficial bacteria, but I am concerned that I cant water change out of the issue or it is not a cycle issue - I have resisted adding meds because I do not see anything yet. Tank setup at the beginning of October and cycled using a pre-seeded Medium Sponge Filter from another tank, Ehiem 2213 with Small Coop Sponge Pre-filter, 2" sand bed (inert) Constant Water Parameters: 7.4pH, 6 deg. GH, 4 deg. KH Water Parameters: 11/15: 72F, 0.5 ppm Ammonia, 0.5 ppm Nitrite, 80-160 ppm Nitrate => Cloudy water, 50% Water Change, Turned up heater Water Parameters 11/15: 76F, 0.25 ppm Ammonia, 0.5 ppm Nitrite, 40 ppm Nitrate => 50% Water Change, Added cycled Ehiem 2213 Water Parameters 11/16: 76F, 0.0 ppm Ammonia, 0.5 ppm Nitrite, 20 ppm Nitrate => 50% Water Change Tap Water: 0.25 ppm Ammonia, 0.25 ppm Nitrite, 40 ppm Nitrate Other Tanks: 0 ppm Ammonia, 0 ppm Nitrite, 20-40 ppm Nitrate Fish Stocking level maintained for last 3.5 weeks: 10 adult Guppies plus fry, Bristlenose Plecos (30+ <1"), and 7 Paleatus Corys plus fry I am looking for advice on what to do next. I am also concerned adding the fish from this tank into my other aquariums in case the issue is also related to an illness.
  9. I have tried to find my answers in the form but not with much luck. I'm doing a fishless cycle. 30gal. Added plants and used Seachem Stability for 4 days, I have not seen an ammonia spike. It has been 2 weeks. Lots of hair algae and brown algae. I clam it off and it's back the next day. I have not done a water change. This weekend will do a 30% change. I test the water once a week. The plants are doing well. Should I be testing it daily? Should I add Seachem Stability after I do the water change? Or not at all? Should I clean the algae before I do a water change? Or let it continue to spread? Should I wait a month before adding fish or snails? Am I totally lost? Thanks, Angie
  10. I picked up a 40 Breeder from the Petco dollar-per-gallon sale, painted it, cleaned it out and dried it. I filled it with tap water and a capful of Prime (5ml or 50g worth). ~20 minutes later I took 2 sponge filters from established tanks and added them: Medium sponge filter from a planted 40B with 8 Boesemani Rainbows and 1 Bristlenose Pleco, which also has an AquaClear 70. Medium sponge filter from a 10g tank with no fish currently (fry system), but it has 2 breeder boxes with Bladder Snails and Ramshorn Snails for Pea Puffer food. I added 1ppm Ammonium Chloride (Fritz powdered), and then 24 hours later... nothing? Ammonia shows 1ppm still, Nitrites are 0. I did not test Nitrates as I don't think I'd be able to tell the difference of the ~10ppm Nitrates our tap water has vs a small increase over that. Would you expect 1ppm Ammonia to process with those 2 sponge filters? Is it possible that the AquaClear has so much capacity that the sponge filter wasn't doing that much, and the snail tank is also a very low bioload? Or is it just that the tank needs to grow biofilm on all of the surfaces and not just the sponge filters to process that much? I'm debating continuing with the fishless cycle like it's a brand new tank, or trying something like Fritz Zyme 7. I've had so-so results with other bottled bacteria brands, but I don't really want to wait 6+ weeks to move fish into this tank, as I have 6 juvenile Angels in a 20H which are not doing great in the confined space (I'm planning to separate them after they pair off). Thanks in advance! -Justin
  11. Hi All, I have three large goldfish in a 40 gallon, freshwater aquarium. I’ve had them for about 4 years or so, but am still an amateur by any definition. My tank was cycled for years (based on frequent water testing), so, admittedly, I haven’t tested the water parameters in a bit. I tested last night after struggling to heal scale sores with Melafix on one of them and the ammonia was 8 ppm. *PANIC ENSUED* I immediately did a 50% water change. I also added QuickStart and StressCoat because I was worried my tank stopped cycling and I wanted to treat the tap water I added. I tested the water again this morning and ammonia was 4 ppm. I did another 50% water change and added a normal dose of Seachem Prime this afternoon. The ammonia is still holding at 4 ppm though, so I just added the emergency dose (5x) of Prime. Nitrite and nitrate readings are at 10 ppm. pH is at 6. They haven’t been fed since yesterday morning. Any guidance you have for me is truly appreciated on how to progress forward and reestablish balance in the tank. Thank you so much in advance! - J
  12. Hi all, So this is the first time I've come across this. I'm getting close to 6 months in my planted tank and it's brought me a lot of joy. Anyways, as of last week I noticed that my water had went from being like looking through a window, to being foggy with particles floating everywhere. I did a water change last week (20%) and gravel vacc'd. With still no change this week. I dose Easy Green once to twice a week and Easy Iron 2-3 times per week. My tank is a 55 gallon and I didn't realize my PH had lowered so much, my water is always a little brown because of the drift wood in my tank. I normally keep it at 7.0. So I'm going to add some PH up. My question is, is this normal and healthy for the water to go from so clear to being foggy? Also I added a second light to my tank so that the foreground plants as well as the background plants are all getting equal lighting. At first I thought that I had started to make green water. But as I stated before this is still new to me and I have a lot to learn. I have a myriad of snails, shrimp, and fish. I also last week cleaned my filters with tank water and the actual filter unit itself with tap water. I'm guessing that's ok seeing as how the beneficial bacteria are all in the sponges. My filters are two Tidal 55's with a very large course sponge, the normal sponge that comes with it. I also added a Fluval fine canister filter sponge today at the top to get varying degrees of coarseness throughout the filter. With the Tidal Bio rocks in the mesh bag at the top. I also have a small sponge filter hidden in the back of my tank. I got that about 3 weeks ago now, simply because I've never tried one and wanted to learn how to use it. WAYYYYYYYY easier to use than was made out to me at first by other people haha. Lastly, here are my current water parameters that I tested just before making this post. The Nitrite being 0.25 and the Nitrate being 0 confused me as well. Is this also a normal thing? Also the ammonia usually is 0-0.25, which I don't mind because I've read that the plants essentially "eat" it. If I'm also wrong about that, please educate me. Thanks Y'all! The bottom of the post has pictures of my tank currently. You can see at the edges of the tank the fogginess that I speak of. As with all pictures, it's easier to see in person. PH-6.0 Ammonia- 0.25 Nitrite- 0.25 Nitrate- 0
  13. Hello all, My first fishless cycle has been rough! I’m going on 2.5 month and still haven’t completed my nitrogen cycle. And Fritz is claiming it’s because my low kh and gh level? Has anyone else seen this? As of tonight’s test I have a kh of 4 and gh of 6. my ammo- 0.25 nitrite- 0 nitrate- 5ppm ph- 7.2
  14. I'm a new aquarist from Austria. I started my fishtank 2 months ago with a few platys and plants (now I have 7 adult plays, 5 corys, 2 siamese alga eaters and 10 baby platys). from the beginning I've had a constant level of ammonia (according to my test it's always around .05), constant nitrites (.025) and almost no nitrates. it's seems that no matter what I do these levels remain the same. I started doing weekly 25% water changes, then I left it for 2 weeks, I added bacteria too. my hang on the back filter has half sponges and half media. i'm not sure if this is problem or not. thanks! Andres
  15. My son and I have 5 tanks and all 5have really high nitrates 80-160 according to API master test kit . The one tank has a a sponge filter that ran 3 weeks in a cycled tank . Nothing else in it and it tested 160 for nitrates . Did 98% water change and next day tested between 80-160in nitrates . Any ideas on what is causing this . Well water is testing 0 nitrates . Thank you for your help.
  16. I got started with fish keeping in 1995 when I was about 8 years old my parents bought me a 10 gallon tank and 4 guppies I ended up with about 100 in about a year. 🙂 I learned a lot about water changes and the cycle of life. We moved when I was 9 and my tank didn't come with us so the hobby ended there...fast forward 22 years and I was given a 55 gallon tank and I bought 12 rainbow tetras and 4 guppies. I fell out of practice over the 22 years and forgot all about the nitrogen cycle. I went on YouTube and found Cory's peanut butter M&M video (nitrogen cycle) and I was hooked. I then spent the next month watching Aquarium coops channel. I'm coming up on 2 years STT and loving my hobby. I really like being able to create an ecosystem in my living room for each specific group of fish I keep. I'm about to conquer African Cichlids and Haps. I have a 75 gallon (This is going to be the Cichlids tank) and my son now has a 55 gallon (Community Tetra tank) This hobby has really taught me patience and how to just leave nature alone and let it do it's thing. Any tips or suggestions in my new Cichlids tank I will appreciate the input. Glad to call myself a NERM! 🙂
  17. Hello all, I’m a newbie here! My 5 year old son and I got into the hobby about a month and a half ago and I need help! I set up our 15 gallon tank about 6 weeks ago. I filled the tank up with tap water and doses accordingly with stress coat and a day later I dosed my tank with fritz ammonia chloride. My first mistake was over dosing with too much and got the ammonia upto about 8 ppm yikes. So I then did a water change and again dosed with stress coat did a 50 percent water change. I got it down to 4ppm. And I thought I was on my way! A co-worker of mine was kind enough to let us have his filter to help us out. And I installed it! Everything was going well but very slow!! After the 3 week mark I was down to 2ppm And that where it stayed for another 2 weeks with no budge. So I decided to reach out to Angels plus and bought a seeded filter I was thinking hey can’t hurt! But I hate to say it didn’t do much. I reached out to Fritz and asked what could I be doing wrong and they pointed me in the direction of checking my gh and kh and sure enough I was low in each!(my tap water base is 4gh and 3kh) I added a dose of seachem equilibrium and alkaline buffer. About 3 days ago and haven’t seen much happen😔 I’m a bit discouraged my son has grown impatient and I feel like everything I do and I can’t get it to cycle. Does anyone have any suggestions or any idea what I could be doing wrong? I have heat 82degrees. And an air stone on my sponge filter. thank you everyone in advance and don’t be too hard on me I’m a newbie trying to learn as much as I possibly can!
  18. Im so confused! The tank details: I just set up this 55 gallon. It has a fluval fx4 with a heater, bubbler, prefilter, and spray bar. I added the monte carlo about 3 weeks ago and the other plants about 3 days ago. The monte carlo was a tissue culture, so all the terrestrial leaves are melting and new ones are growing in, as well a new roots. Ive added easy green and easy carbon around every other day for the last week and a half. I also added cycled media from my old tanks and beneficial bacteria starter liquid. Now for the problem: I just checked my nitrates and the its sitting really high, around 40-80ppm (i cant really tell which color it is based on the chart). The ammonia is at 0ppm and the ph is around 7. I think it maybe all the melting from the monte carlo causing a spike in ammonia->nitrates. Ive never had this happen during a tank start up. Also, should I do a large water change. I have ludwigia in the tank and have read they dont like dramatic changes in water parameters. If I should, what percentage do you recommend? Update: I just moved into this new apartment thats a few blocks away. I assumed the water was the same. However, this is the reading of the faucet water with dechlorinater in it. Nitrates: 20ppm, ph is at 8.2., ammonia is at 0~0m25ppm. Is this normal? Also, after a 50% water change my waters sitting at about 40ppms still and ph is now 7.8. Should i do another 50% water change?
  19. I added three Aquaclear 50 sponges into the very mature Aquaclear 110 on my main tank. How long will it take for the new sponges to be fully seeded?
  20. I currently run several planted tanks and constantly seem to have above the desired Nitrate. I run around 80-120 PPM. I can obviously water change it off and do but I feel I am kinda wasting my ferts by reducing the Nitrates only to redose. I am under the opinion that just because the nitrates is high the other building blocks the plants need can be low. What id love to do is get nitrates consumed so that when I go to add more I dont need to change out 40% of my tank to be able to put a squirt or 2 in. I run mostly Anachris, Swords,Frogbit and Crypts. Does anyone know of some nitrate hogs I could add in?
  21. I was thinking of removing some of the bio media from the middle chamber of my sump and putting plants in there. Between sponge and media, I probably have more bio media than I really need in there. Does anyone have experience with this? Worth it? Not worth it? I was thinkIng of using this to grow out java moss, but if my goal was cleaning the water, is there a better suited plant, like pothos or something? Or can pothos outcompete the plants in the tank?
  22. I am going to make my first attempt at instant cycling a new aquarium. I have 4 other aquariums that I cycled the "old school" way...lol. I have a sponge filter in a quarantine tank that I'm going to use in the new aquarium. How do I know if the aquarium is instantly cycled or how long I need to wait to determine if it's cycled? Will it crash if I wait too long to put fish in it?
  23. I am not associated with this company other than using some of their products. Wastewater Treatment Strategies for Biological Nutrient Removal of Nitrogen WWW.YSI.COM Biological nutrient removal (BNR) is the new standard for wastewater secondary treatment strategies. BNR involves the recruitment and growth of specific microorganisms that either convert or remove nutrients like...
  24. I have had my tank for 1 month. I was gifted a Betta prematurely from a friend right when I got this tank. I actually got this ten because she gifted it and I knew my 40 wasn't ready yet, only being three days into the cycle from new. I have 5 ghost shrimp, 2 mystery snails, 1 nerite, and my male betta. I have a Fluval 3.0 light. I have a moderately planted tank with Valisineria, Dwarf Saggitaria, Moneywort, Octopus, Anubias nana, one Red Melon Sword and one Amazon Sword. I was struggling big time with ammonia and did more water changes than I care to remember or can count. I recently bought a Tidal 35 filter to replace the cheap little filter that came with the ten. (tetra whisper). I have both filters in there right now, so that the bacteria can grow on the new one, and the old filter can still give bacteria, even though I hate the filter. (carbon sleeve thing). Here are my water parameters. PH 7.6 Ammonia 0 (This makes me want to dance!!) Nitrite 2.0 😞 Nitrate 5.0 I didn't test the KH,GH, or Phosphate because once I saw the Nitrites I knew I would have to do a water change or something anyway. In my Tidal 35 I have the sponge and media that came with it as well as a polishing sponge and some crushed coral for my snails, (I have very soft water, my 40 gallon says my hardness in it is now 5) What can I do to help the nitrites go down that I am not already doing? I've included a picture of my tank. Thank you everyone Tianna
  25. This is probably a difficult question to answer. I've been into the hobby for about half a year now and I've watch A LOT of videos on the hobby to familiarize myself with the basics. One issue I still find hard is figuring out what is the breaking point between a nice stocked tank and an overstocked tank. As we all know, there is constant craving for MORE. We all have to deal with the thoughts of, "What else can I add to my aquarium?", "What's missing?" Obviously, better to understock than to overstock. However, there are situations that warrant considerations. For instance, I have three swordtails ( 1 male and 2 females). Now I know you're all thinking the same thing... 1 to 3 or 4 ratio! I realize that too, but have been hesitant to add another because of my concern of overstocking. I could give specifics on my tank size and what I have stocked, but that deflects the purpose of this topic. I want this topic to be helpful guidelines for anybody new to the hobby. I'm interested in hearing what YOU use as a rule of thumb of how much to add to your aquarium.
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