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About Me

  1. I recently came across a few videos from a YouTube channel by the name of Tech Ingredients and there were three that caught my attention. The three were videos where about DIY fridges, freezers and aquarium lights. Though in all three videos one thing caught my attention, the use of liquid cooling to divert heat from the appliances to warm another location, and in the case of the aquarium light video, heating the aquarium itself. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with similar attempts at heating your aquariums to cut the costs of heaters and issues with heater failure, or even the possibility of using said liquid heaters to somewhat heat outdoor mini ponds.
  2. I recently set up my eheim heater for my quarantine tank and followed the directions carefully (when I say I annotated the instruction manual I’m not kidding). I set the temp to about 78 using the blue dial then waited around 2 hours. I came back to check the temp using a digital thermometer and a glass thermometer and they both measured around 83°. I unplugged the heater and turned the blue dial to about 73 hoping it would heat to around 78 since there’s a 5 degree difference then plugged the heater back in. Checked back 2 hours later and both thermometers still read 83°. At that point I already had the betta fish and figured it’d be better to acclimate the fish already then take my chances spending more hours recalibrating the heater. That was last night, as of this morning the thermometers still read 83° and my betta fish is doing good. Am I doing something wrong with calibrating the heater? Is it urgent that I get the temperature down or is my betta ok with 83°? Ideally I would’ve liked to lower the temp to 78 so acclimating my betta to the display tank would be easier, but at this point I’m a little afraid to mess with the thermometer seeing how finicky it’s been with me. Thanks in advance!
  3. *edit...my plants are not burnt, just planted actually, I'm just concerned since I'm new to this. Hi, been a long time out of fishkeeping, and first time trying live plants. I just got some hornwort I ordered online and of the two best spots to plant some in my ten gallon, one was next to the heater (Tetra 50w 2-10 gal). I bought them for my little colony of ghost shrimp since I heard they like it and I like the look of it. I've been searching the last couple days but can't find anything about the heater burning the plants? It does have a guard on the bottom. I've enclosed pics of where the one I'm concerned about is. I know the heater isn't in the best spot for even distribution, but with the rock there it was the best spot. My betta loves to sit on top of it, lol. Maybe he likes a warm tail... And....yes I know I have brown algae, my nerite loves the stuff on the sides and the shrimp love it on the ground and rock. My blue mystery covers the whole tank all day but doesn't seem to chow down on it like the nerite. It appeared about a week ago. If it gets beyond what my nerite can handle, I will scrape it off. The other pic is the hornwort on the other side of the filter. I can tell already that it's gonna be a mess to deal with! I got it originally for a dedicated shrimp tank that is on hold atm. Thanks so much for any info! Appreciate this group!
  4. Hello fellow #nerms 😊 Alright - here's the sort of "story" :: Last Tuesday (the 20th), all was fine and well at least at / around 9:30 that morning, in all 7 of the tanks. Looked in each tank, and watched the fish in each one for a moment or two -- and fes each tank as usual. Cut to 2:55pm (so just over *5 HOURS* later) - I was doing water changes on the small tanks that day and I got to this one particular tank. ((the tank I am referring to in this post is a 5 gallon Marineland Eclipse (hexagon) tank - so not one of the bigger ones)) Unplugged the things I needed to unplug before removing water, then reached in to begin removing the duckweed…….. But the water was warm. Way way way way too warm. ( and then I did a big "no-no" ) I tapped the side of the tank --- nothing moved. Tapped again - still nothing. So then (within the same 5 seconds) I looked at the thermometer… As you can see ----- yeah. It was ACTUALLY as correct of a reading as it could give me. The water in this tank, had reached OVER the 104°F 'cut-off'. There was actually steam coming off the top / surface of the water (circled) : So I started to look about the bottom of the tank, and yup. Sure enough. Dead. The few fish - which consisted of 4 (older ,virgin) juvenile female guppies, 2 young juvenile female platys, and 2 {left of originally 7} Pygmy Corys; and all of the snails (bladder/pond & ramshorn). Just…dead. And of course it was also a fully planted tank. So, after coming to terms with the fact that everything living in this tank was now dead - I turned my attention to the plants. I don't know how long the temp had been as high as it was, I don't even know when the absurd increase had even begun. I DO know it was NOT that warm at 9:30 though - because I reached a hand into this tank and pulled a few bladder snails out to feed to my assassin snails. Anyways. But I ended up doing was removing absolutely everything from this tank, the substrate, the filter media oh, the Sponge Filter, and obviously all of the plants as well. Because of the number of snails I knew were in this tank, and that nothing, and I mean nothing, had survived this malfunction, I was not willing to risk keeping the substrate, which I'm sure is for obvious reasons. And at this particular time, I did not find myself feeling too worried about the plants that were in the tank, because at that time none of them looked to have been damaged too horribly, although there were a few leaves on one of the crypts that had started to yellow and become almost see-through. So after I replaced everything (except the sponge filter - but this was very thoroughly cleaned) I replaced the plants back into the tank with some root tabs. They stayed green --- for about 3 days after this. And now, this is what they look like : So my question? How do I know if these plants are REALLY dead, and not just that their leaves have all melted away (I've had plants that started with DOZENS of leaves, and the melt back, so much so, that only the bit that goes in the substrate with its roots was left -- but then EVENTUALLY they'd come back). Sooooo ARE they just completely done-for!!? ***also to note - the crowns of the swords are NOT mushy / soft -- but all the leaves (as well as most of the roots) on the swords, crypts, and apongeton plants , all basically feel like mush when you touch them*** this is just a pic of what it used to look like - vs - now:
  5. I'm new to neocaridina, so I don't know if I have a problem. The tank's been steady at 72, but the heater didn't shut itself off last night (we're all surprised, I know 🙄), and the temp wooshed from 72 to 80 in 15 hours. The shrimp are young. Many females have been saddled for weeks, but I haven't seen any berried. I removed the heater, and took the lid off to let it cool. Is there anything else I should do? They appear to be acting fine, but I've heard this can cause a "premature molt." Is that a problem?
  6. Anyone recommend a heater for the ziss brine shrimp hatchery? My fish room gets in the 60s in the winter and I'm already starting to see hatch decrease as the temp starts to fade.
  7. So Fluval E300 heater.... 125 gallon tank. In use for about a month. Mounted 45 degrees with the bottom towards the intake of a Fluval FX6. Ambient room temperature is about 72 degrees. The E300 shows 77.5, my little thermometer attached to the tank shows 78ish(probably closer to 79), and a thermometer with the probe I drop in the water shows 78ish, so I'm sure the water is close to where it should be. I do have a Eheim Jager 300W Heater at the other end. But for the last couple of days it has been flashing between 77.5 and LF, which my understanding is Low Flow. No other errors. I've searched the net and have an open ticket with Fluval, but thought I try here. I'm not getting the LF. The FX6 is open all the way, and from the sound of the output it sure sounds like good flow. So should I be worried? Any more troubleshooting I can do?
  8. Noticed one if my tanks was a few of degrees higher than usual a couple of days ago. Didn’t think that much of it as it’s warming up around here but we haven’t used the AC yet. Usually keep tanks 76-78. Went to do water changes today and as soon as I touched the water I knew that same tank was way high. It was 93. Pulled heater out right away and it was very warm. Got temp down with slow water changes to about 83. Leaving lid off and turned the overhead fan on to cool the rest if the way. Fish seem ok. Guppies, lamb chop rasboras, and plecos. It was an Aqueon Pro 150 watt heater about two years old. Glad I caught it in time. Threw a 50 watt heater I had in there for now until I get another one.
  9. Hello everyone! I was going though the backlog of Aquariums Co-op videos (as one does) and watched "Your Freshwater Fish Tank Probably Doesn't Need A Heater" from about 2 years ago. I have been recording the room temperature for the past week and a half and I have read it in the range of 73-81. The fish (and inverts) that I plan to have are able to go from low 70s to low 80s (according to credible resources on the interwebs. The question I have is if I need to add a heater to my aquarium. Keep in mind that they light and sponge filters are not on yet so there will be some hear added from those will raise the water temperature as well Perhaps @Cory or @Irene could also weigh in 🙂 always great to hear from them!
  10. Hello everybody, In the upcoming months, I will be moving off to college with my 5.5 gallon tank. I do not know if the dorms have a stable temperature environment and I can say the ambient temperature will NOT be enough to keep it warm. In a perfect scenario, the heater would be fully submersible, small, and safe. Please let me know of any recommendations, I've tried the 5w and 25w heaters from aqueon= absolutely trash. I don't know if I should go out and purchase the 50w submersible (aqueon) due to the high wattage. A lot of the smaller heaters seem to have some consistent issues of under heating and over heating, that is why I have come to here 🙂 Thank you!
  11. I have a 5.5 gallon tank that was given to me and am looking for a reliable inexpensive heater for a betta tank it’ll have a screened top, so basically open top. Also any decent light recommendations for some simple live plants would be appreciated
  12. I recently bought a heater with a digital readout, and I rearranged the plants in my tank, and now it says I have low flow. I have a 40-gallon breeder with a large Aquarium Co-op sponge filter on each end. I also have a nano tank circulation pump aimed right at the heater housing. I have tried a more powerful circulation pump in the past, but it seemed like my fish were struggling to adjust to the flow on even the lowest setting. So I guess my question is really, how much flow do you need in a planted tank? Should the leaves be moving slightly all the time?
  13. I can’t find any examples of YouTube of set ups that use an internal heater (rather than just the room heat). I know smaller heaters tend to be less reliable and I want to try to avoid something that’ll melt the Ziss hatchery (if I get it—still debating). I have the Brine Shrimp Hatchery that looks like a black disk with a hole in the center but even with my seedling heating mat, I think the air’s been too cold. I was having success when we had a few days of warmer, sunnier weather but having very, very few hatches this last batch. I do love the Co-op eggs though! Definitely notice the difference in separation and the eggs staying at the surface. Love the cute Murphy tin too😊 I didn’t think my Pygmy Corys would care for the live baby brine but they went nuts for the ones that fell to the substrate! I originally thought only my gouramis would go after them. I just got a neodymium magnet to try to see if it’ll help with shell removal but alas, I don’t have any live baby brine to test it with😅
  14. I got the Ziss bbs hatch from the coop. Does anyone know of a USB heater to pair with the USB air pump to make it only 1 plug in? I have been browsing the amazon for a device but coming up blank.
  15. Hello All. I set up a 10 gallon quarantine tank with only a sponge filter and a heater in it. The heater is not heating up the water to the set temperature, It goes on for a min then turns off. I think it is sensing the heated water right around it and not staying on long enough to heat the 10gallon aquarium. It is a brand new Oase Heatup 50. How do I get water flow around the heater with only a sponge filter? Will the sponge filter be enough flow to get the heater to work properly?
  16. I have a tempered 90g Marineland tank that I'm brainstorming for at the moment. It's eventually going to be a Discus tank. Tempered glass...aka you can't drill. With that said, I've contemplated doing a sump for it. My reasoning is that I REALLY want to hide heaters, and a thermometer. I found this hang on back overflow. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/deluxe-cs90-with-lid-and-aqua-lifter.html My only worry is the bulkhead in the overflow leaking at some point. OR, there's this DIY pvc overflow method. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/this-guy-want-a-beaslbob-trap.36891/ Yes, I know: the safe route is to just hide the heaters with plants. But, I'd like to avoid having to hide them, if I can accomplish this safely. If this were you, would you do it (either overflow method)? Regardless of your answer, please explain.
  17. I have a 75 gallon aquarium that is heated through a oase biomaster canister filter. I was also considering using two 150 watt heaters on each side of the aquarium instead. I am wanting to have it where the heaters wont constantly have to run. So the question is a heater that is ran by a canister filter more efficient or is having two heaters inside of the aquarium on opposite ends more efficient?
  18. My new setup is a plant only tank with a Amazon sword, octopus plant, water sprite and crypt wendtii. It is unheated and is running at 69 degrees. Would i get more growth if the tank was heated to at least 75°?
  19. Greetings I have a boring topic - heaters. I know you would rather talk about the rare varieties of African Ciclids or Rainbow fish but I am pondering heaters. I have a variety of tank sizes. My house is cool. Regardless of tank size, is it better to go with higher watt heaters? OR - is tank size a limiting factor? What are reliable brands. Haha, maybe better to learn to live in 80 degree house!
  20. Hi, first time poster here. I'm looking to get back into the hobby after a 25 year break. So, I've scoured the internet, only to find that EVERY single brand of heater, even the expensive brands, have one horror story after another in the reviews. Examples: doa/only last a short time, not reliable, frying fish, shocking fish, etc. Seems like I've exhausted my options here. What are the best brands these days that won't break the bank, at least not too much so? BTW, I wouldn't trust a thermostat, I plan to have a thermometer for insurance. Thanks
  21. So im one to read through the instruction booklet, shocking! I know, but i found that in the book it says to mount them vertically only. Yet i have seen many YouTubers recommend to put it horizontally. My question is does putting it horizontally damage it in the long term? Has anyone had these heaters in the horizontal position for years on end?
  22. I recently got a new heater to replace my old one since the new one has an adjustable temperature. But how can I replace it? Specifically, how can I get the suction cups to stick to the back glass with water in the tank?! I know it sounds silly, but I’m serious. I can never get them to stick well with water.
  23. I am a canister filter user. Intake on one corner and outlet on the other, aimed towards center of the front glass. As Cory mentioned several times the benefits of using an airstone I decided to run one. But no matter what I do where ever I place the air stone, I am having problems with my heater. Sometimes it never goes on or other times it keeps on working. When I shut the air stone, heater operates as it is supposed to and my temps stays where they should. I think it affects the flow. Where can I put it so everything should work as they supposed to. Below isht photo of my tank
  24. I woke up this morning to find a patch of bubbles in one of my tanks.. I tested the water and everything was perfect so I scooped out the bubbles and kept and eye on it. Then I noticed the bottom cap had come off the heater. (It's a little 25w glass cheap one, but its adjustable and seemed to be doing the job) I popped the cap back on. Then I noticed the the heater had bubbles all over the under side and it was making a steady stream of tiny bubbles (exactly the same size and consistency as pearling) Turned it off and let it cool in case it was over heating (water felt normal and I didn't get electrocuted) when I removed it the heater I thought I'd find it cracked but it had this weird stuff on it.. only in a patch and only on the underside. It's hard and crunchy like pumice stone. There's no water inside the glass The heater has only been in the water for about 7 weeks. 🤔 Any idea what's up with it? Thank you 😊
  25. I've got two faulty heaters in my nano tanks. No fish or shrimp yet, but lots of snails and my plants have been thriving... I need to send them back, but in the meantime, will my plants be ok? How long can I get away without having these tanks heated? And I'm not sure what kind of heater to replace them with. Thank you for any advice 😊
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