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About Me

  1. So I posted about this earlier and I was offered great advice for typical situations, but I have several tanks and this is out of my typical. My pH is usually around 7 ish, but no kH, so I tend to add crushed coral to my substrate. So an extremely high pH is way out of my normal. I never really understood the actual chemistry, but I get where my water parameters should be... Expect now I'm clueless and need real help. I made a daphnia set up. It's got way too much light, aquarium gravel, some guppy grass, some CC and like 6 guppy fry. I think I attached a photo. Yeah, the bottom is kinda gross...I want to save any eggs....but I haven't fed yeast....no detritus worms. pH is off the chart. Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite are O. kH was about 40. I tried a 25% water change....(it rains in ponds) and the kH dropped out, pH didn't budge, but honestly, it could be so high that a drop is still higher than measurable. Crushed Coral could never raise pH that high....so what could raise pH that high? Thanks. Yes, one is a tetra strips, one is the Co-op strip.
  2. Curious to know of a good way to drop PH from about 8+ down to the neutral 7 range without introducing tannins or expensive substrate. Tried PH down it had no effect. Thanks
  3. I'm not great with water parameters. I'm trying to keep daphnia. I've got a little daphnia indoor daphnia tank going and it seems to be doing well. Some floating plants..... No nitrates... Ect. However, the pH ha climbed to crazy. Like off the chart crazy. It might be too high to actually measure. I may have some CC leftover in the substrate, but that would not cause such an increase. I treat it like my tanks. I've never had an issue with pH going high. Nitrates sure.... And yes, I'm confused how there are no nitrates.... Unless a handful of guppy grass is that good at cleaning up after a 10 gallon filled with daphnia. I've been doing daily water changes with distilled water. Gallon per day for two days thus far. pH is still max on the test. Help... But more important, please teach. Thanks.
  4. Chemistry done on April 4th 20G Temp 79.1, Ammonia 0; Nitrite 0; Nitrate 5.0; GH 14 and KH 5 (current load 6 fish 2 snails, 3 shrimp) 5G Temp 77.5, Ammonia 0; Nitrite 0.25; Nitrate 8.0; GH 8 and KH 4 (1 Pea puffer) I was testing my tanks this morning and ALL of them PH and KH have dropped I have had PH in ALL of them consistent 7.4 for MONTHS.. I even did them on April 4th and my PH was 7.4 (in 20G and 5G) and KH 20G = 5 and 5 Gallon = 4. The PH in my tap water is also 7.4 and I use tap water (with prime) to do water changes. Temp is 79 in both tanks I did a water change/clean on the 5 G on Sunday (30%) and 20G I cleaned/changed 20% before I added 5 new fish from QT. Even my QT tank PH has dropped to the mid 6's where it used to be like all the others @ 7.4 What happened? What did I do wrong? Do I fix it? or leave it.
  5. The pH in my 60 gallon tank keeps dropping. It will stay at about 7.2-7.4 for a while and then, when I check again a few days later, it will have dropped to about 6.0! I add baking soda to get the pH back up and it works for a week or so and then the same thing happens again. Anyone seen this? And how can I stabilize my pH?
  6. Help. This 55 gal planted tank is getting me frustrated. Nitrates are high around 100-160, ph is steady 6.8, gh is 120-180, kh is around 40, zero nitrites, zero ammonia. Just did a second 50% water change in 2 days. City tap water (ph 6.8) (zero nitrates) through declorinator filter. Tested after water change and it's 80. Just ordered crush coral and large pore filters. I am running 2 sponge filters with water pumps on top of them. Tank was set up in Sept 2019. What can I do?
  7. Hi everyone. I'm working on getting harder water in my tank. I'm using RO water with Seachem Alkaline Buffer and Equilibrium. I'm trying to get a pH of 7-7.5. I was away for a weekend recently, so the tank went 2 weeks without a water change. Thought I'd test parameters before changing water, out of curiosity. My gH was 8 and kH was 6, more or less as expected, and my pH was 6.6. All tests were liquid API tests. I did NOT expect to find a pH under 7 with the kH still so high. My understanding is the kH will buffer the pH quickly up to 7 or so, then more slowly towards and above 8. How could my kH have remained that high but the pH so low? I really don't know what to make of it.
  8. I can see that some people takes here about ammonia reading between the methods . But for me I get consistent opposite pH results the strips tells me I have very low pH 6.4 the lowest red color in the strip. While the API telling me I have 7.6 the darkest blue in the chart What is going on ? I have male guppies , young neocaridina shrimp and ramshorn snails. So far only the the snails are breeding ( shrimp are too young and guppies all male ) but all of them seams to be active , playful , eating and happy so I am not sure what to think ...
  9. Hi, I just noticed that the area below my betta's gills seems to be either pushed back, or damaged, it's enough that you can see the tissue that's normally covered up by the gills. (please excuse the cloudy water, I just added some crushed coral about 5 minutes ago.) I've noticed him flashing for a bit, and hard Cory say in a livestream somewhere that low pH could cause issues with irritating the skin and gills. I ordered some crushed coral and added it to help raise the pH to get him to stop flashing. He is still eating, but with a bit of difficulty, it almost looks like he wants to eat, has trouble chewing it. Mostly he's resting in the plants. My parameters are: NH3 & NH4: 0 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: 0 ppm (The tank has been cycled for about a month or two, with plants taking a lot of nitrogen from what i can tell.) GH: 75 ppm KH: 40 ppm pH: 6.4 Temperature: 79ºF Source of Results: Tetra Easy Strips Ammonia, Tetra Easy Strips Six in One, and Marina Thermometer Could this be from misjudging when he was flashing and accidentally hitting this area? His tankmates are several red cherry shrimp, a few bladder snails and their eggs, and various worms, small inverts, etc in a planted 5.5 gallon. (To clarify on the picture, he does not have fin rot, his tail was pointed towards the camera making his tail look a bit shorter) Also if someone happens to know will this be permanent? Anything helps, thanks! UPDATE 2:03PM UTC: Last night he jumped out of the tank, and was out for probably a minute at most. He doesn't seem to have any injuries. He's still resting in the plants and still eating with difficulty. Right now I'm feeding freeze dried spirulina brineshrimp to try to give him good food.
  10. Hi all, As my tank comes towards the end of its cycle (yes I have been checking my water daily, yes people on this forum said I probably shouldn't because it would drive me crazy, no I do not regret it. My ammonia spiked and dipped and my nitrite spiked and is dipping now, so the end is near), I realize there are two things I have not paid enough attention to: KH and GH I purchased the API water tester for gh and kh and it took 6 drops for the kh to change to whatever the specific color needed to be and it took 12 drops for the gh. I understand that means my water is hard. That is about all I understand though (and I should have known, my bar soap doesn't last hardly at all). What does it all mean?! And how do I find a reliable source to find out what parameters each type of fish needs? I was browsing the web to try to see if the fish I wanted all had similar water parameters and, my goodness, no two websites for one specie listed the same parameters. It only adds to my confusion about gh/kh honestly. I guess--since my water is hard, should I try to add water softener? Is adding driftwood best, or peat moss to my filter, it other methods? I am hoping to get gourami & tetra (haven't committed to specific species yet), kuhli loaches, and maybe otos or corys that don't mind warm water to my tank.
  11. Hello, I am new to the hobby and long story short I am in the process of doing a fish in cycle. If you would like the whole story I posted that in the greetings and introductions. Last night I purchased this kit because my 5 in 1 strips ran out and this was at the pet store and also a bottle of seed because i assumed my cycle was stalled based on 0 nitrite and nitrate from the test strips. Now this morning I see this I was hoping to get some help reading these results Attached in order Ph Ph high Ammonia Nitrite Nitrate
  12. Hello! I have started a 75 gallon long planted tank when I moved into my new house ( 5 months ago). It has Java ferns, jungle val, 3 Angel fish, 8 LG Tetras, 1 Hill stream loach, 5 panda catfish, and some old guppies ive had forever. I am struggling with the water PH and the best way to control it. The home tap water I use is VERY High PH. I did not realize this at first and my plants were struggling and I have a beard algae issues. Once I realized the PH was so high (at first I was not checking the high PH kit I was only using the regular range and thinking I was in the clear) I started trying to treat the water I was adding during water changes to lower it to closer to 7. I test it compared to my tank PH before adding it to try to get it as close as possible to the same ph. Plants are doing better now, have some new growth and in general look less stressed. Far less black algea is growing and some greener algea (minor) has started growing. My fish have never shown signs of stress that I have noticed. Have only lost one Vail Angel fish that I have had for 2 years now and it has happened after I started trying to ph balance my tank before adding it to my change outs. Died about 5 days post water change ( no disease noticeable). Any tips or tricks people have for making the water I add during my water changes a safer PH for my fist and plants? I'm afraid of accidently sending the ecosystem into a ph. rollercoaster since I have to artificially alter it for every bucket of water I add.
  13. I’m new to fish keeping and currently have one aquarium with guppies. I am interested in breeding bristlenose and would like to set up my second tank to do so. It is a 20 tall and currently has 4 plants and a couple mystery snails in it while I finalize what to stock it with. Everything I have read/heard says that bristlenose should be kept no higher then 7.8ph, especially when trying to breed them. My water out of the tap has a PH of 8.5 and GH of 300. I’m concerned that any bristlenose I bring in will will either a) not survive or b) not thrive and breed. I’m looking for input on whether or not this could work with my water conditions or would the bristlenose fall apart and not thrive?
  14. I need to get my pH down, but increase GH and KH. Everything I'm finding online indicates that it's not possible to do both. (For what it's worth, I used pH Down yesterday to get the pH from 7.8 to 7.3. Only 3 hours later, it was back to 7.8.) Any idea how I can simultaneously decrease pH, and increase GH and KH?
  15. I've gotten a grasp on various elements of water chemistry, but one thing continues to elude me. KH. I keep seeing information that confirms that KH decreases over time in tanks that receive few or no water changes (topped off with RO or D water), but I haven't been able to find one that explains why. I know KH is a measure of the carbonate and bicarbonate in the water, but what uses that or otherwise causes it to decrease over time? I've certainly observed that with my tanks (my well-established tanks go months without water changes, topped off with D water to compensate for evaporation). I know RO and D water don't replace lost KH, but water changes do. I was using baking soda to compensate for lost KH in the tanks that didn't get monthly or weekly water changes but switched to crushed coral after watching one of Cory's videos. I'd just like to understand the how and why of loss of carbonate and bicarbonate. Anyone know?
  16. Hi all, I am trying to assess my water balance to determine if I need corrective action. It seems my Ph is on the low side and KH and GH are not quite in sync with each other. I live in Tucson, AZ where the tap water is VERY hard, so I use RO for water exchanges and top offs. Fish (4 Denison's, 1 Congo Tetra, 1 Gold bristle nose Pleco - 60 gal tank) seem to be doing fine, plants look like they could be a bit more vibrant. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Here are my water parameters from the Tank, Tap and RO: Tank: Ph = 6.4 KH = 4 dKH GH = 8 dGH Nitrite = 0 ppm Nitrate = 5 ppm Ammonia = 0-0.25 ppm CO2 = 35-40 ppm Tap: Ph = 8.0 KH = 6 dKH GH = 17-18 dGH RO: Ph = 7.0 KH = 0 dKH GH = 0 dGH C
  17. Hello, we have had our Betta for a little over 4 weeks now. The pH had a rapid drop from 7.2 to about 6. The aquarium is still cycling and the highest the ammonia has gotten was 2.0 and we have not detected nitrite yet. Now the ammonia is reading 0. We are using an API Master Test kit. I did find some searching online and came across an ammonia trap, but I am still a bit confused about why pH would drop so much. I did do a 50% water change yesterday, but the pH is still below our regular 7.2 readings. Should I continue regular water changes? The complicating factor is that we just started treatment for mild fin rot and the instructions say not to change water until 7 days of treatment. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you!
  18. If I leave regular egg shells in my tank... will they dissolve and add calcium to the water? PH is about 6.4ish... My shrimps pick at them from time to time.. just wondering if I should leave them in there or take them out after a time....
  19. So I my mom spotted out that my favorite Cory that I call Beth was laying in the wisteria. She is normally very lively but the past few days she hasn’t been as lively as she once was. Please help Thanks
  20. The pH in my tank is steady at 7.6. I want to keep live plants, tetras, and shrimp. I was looking at Seachem Neutral to get to to 7.0 (which is reported as top end for shrimp and tetras) but the review on using Seachem Neutral with live plants and shrimp are a bit sketchy. My other water parameters in week 1 of cycling the new tank are below. Any thoughts on the Seachem Neutral? is 7.6 too high for shrimp and glowlight tetras? Am I going to be fighting the pH forever and should I just pick new fish/inverts? Week 2 cycling water parameters (API Test Kit) kH - 5 gH - 6 pH -7.6 NO2 - 0 NO3 - 0 NH3/NH4 - 0 I got into this situation where my grand plans for this tank have been de-railed by testing my tap water without resting it for 24 hours and assuming I had perfect 7.0 water out of the tap....I started cycling my tank and saw a huge difference when testing. I tried testing for false positives from water conditioner, etc. but I am confident after learning the hard way my water is 7.6. lesson learned - hoping some of the veterans out there can help me salvage my plans of keeping plants, shrimp, and tetras.
  21. I'm having some problems with super high pH. My tap water initially reads at a pH of 7.2 with a KH of 19 (woah, right?). It's well water that goes through 2 house filters and a softener. After 24-48 hours, the pH reads and stabilizes at pH 8.3, which I think is WAY too high for fish and/or plants. Even when I mix in some parts reverse osmosis water (pH 7, KH 2), the tank water still gets up to pH 8.3. I have 5 small Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus and one small Anubias Golden. Is this pH too high if I plan to be putting in guppies (I think so)? Is this pH going to hurt my Neocaridina shrimp (blue velvets)? I'll take any guidance I can get!
  22. I was told not to chase numbers . But every time I test water in all my tanks with test strips , PH and GH are high . Is this ok ok? I have been keeping fish for almost two years . No visible signs of stress on fish but I just want to make sure they are leaving the best life in my aquariums .
  23. I am trying to figure out why my PH, KH, and GH differs from my aquarium, tap water, and my aged water (45 gallon Brute trash can).Tap:PH - 8.2KH - 6GH - 3Aged water:PH - 7.5KH - 6GH - 3Aquarium:PH - 8.2KH - 6GH - 14My tap and aquarium PH are both 8.2, however the PH of my aged water is 7.5. The GH in my tap and aged water are both 3, but it is 14 in my aquarium. The KH is the same across all 3. I did all the tests using a API test kit and did them multiple times to insure they were accurate.I keep a Flowerhorn and noticed he gets really stressed out after water changes (30% weekly). My aged water is also heated to match the aquarium temp. He is kept in a bare bottom tank (no substrate )differs from my aquarium, tap water, and my aged water (
  24. We have gone a year with changing water, putting in guppies and snails. Both guppies and snails having babies, etc. Haven't had much in problems except we saw the ammonia spike a couple of times. In the last 2 months we keep seeing the pH go drasticly down. One day is it looking good and the next wow down to 6.2, the last bad spike was somewhere between 5 and 5.5. Today we were at 6.2 and we added baking soda like we did the other times. The time it got to 5-5.5 we lost all my males. It was fine that morning and when we looked at about 7 that evening we had dead guppies. We got some of them out of it into a tank that was still looking good and some rallied for a day but eventually we lost every male we had (only males were in that tank). This month it has gone down twice so far. We are managing to go through a whole box of baking soda. Stats: our water is very hard and before we put it in the tank it usually is around 7.4 - 7.9 pH. The only thing that has changed since a little before we lost all the male guppies is that we went from using "startzyme" to "aqueon water conditioner" and started using liquid calcium " Kent marine calcium" that our fish place recommended, instead of a hard calcium tablet. So does anyone have any idea what might be causing this.
  25. After watching this FANTASTIC stream on PH by Prime Time Aquatics (totally reccomend) I want to make sure I am understanding this properly... Higher PH = More Basic Water Lower PH = More Acidic Water To raise PH you can add woods/ catapa leaves. But only will this work if you have low KH Generally the lower the PH the lower the KH and vise versa KH helps to stabilize the PH. The higer the KH the more stable the PH.
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