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  1. Hi Nerms! I had my first shrimp death, my first death at all, this morning and I'm totally bummed. I know they're just shrimp, but still. I quickly checked the water and the nitrates were at 40. I just did a 20 percent WC four days ago and am surprised the nitrates are so high but I did a 25 percent WC immediately. I'm assuming I'm not getting rid of enough dead leaves in the tank or I'm overfeeding or both but just wanted to consult the group to see if my thinking is right. Stats: 5 gallon very heavily planted running for about a year. Shrimp added two months ago. Ph: 7.6 Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrates: 40 before the WC Kh: 3 Gh: 12 Temp: 78 I feed the nine adult shrimp (now eight) I have a tiny pinch of shrimp food -- no more than 10 tiny pieces -- or a couple algae wafers every two to three days. Important to mention it's also a snail breeding tank for my pea puffers so it has bladder and ramshorn snails in it. I actually used to feed the tank quite a bit more for the snail population to grow and the nitrates never got above 10. I still see a bunch of shrimplets swimming around so I know the tank isn't in too bad of shape. Questions: What do I do? Give the plants a good pruning? Stop feeding as much? Both? For WCs, how frequently should I do them and what percentage should I do to get the nitrates back down? Another option: am I overthinking it and ignoring the fact that deaths happen? Thank you all! 🦐
  2. I took down a 29 gallon tall tank I had setup. The substrate was gravel and sand on the bottom with a few plants. They never grew well, possibly due to the tanks height and weak lighting. The nitrates had risen to around 80ppm even with regular water changes, but it doesn't help that our tap water has 40-50ppm already. The fish were not doing as well as they should be and one tiny cory had died. Above are the test strips for both anoxic tanks, the top is the 20L the bottom is the 5.5 gallon. I moved 4 mystery snails and 6 neon tetras to the 20 gallon long where they joined our 5 black neons, 7 Julii corys, a betta, and 2 snails. The 20L was my first anoxic test and is running at under 20ppm nitrates, zero nitrites and ammonia, very hard, low KH, around 6.8pH, around 340ppm on the TDS meter. It has a slow plenum under gravel filter, an intank filter, and an airstone. It has some basil growing in the top as an experiment. I clear the center duckweed every other day, I just slide the foam dividers together and scoop it out. The top is a foam box with a reflective fabric made for hydroponics boxes this helps get the light onto the tank. The cutouts are terrible, I should have made them before I assembled it, but they work. I can tilt them to open them up and let it breathe. Now onto the nano tank with essentially zero nitrates. It's a 5.5 gallon with 6 green corys, 2 female guppies, and a mystery snail which all came from the 29 gallon. It uses a slow moving plenum, an intank filter, and an air stone. Its currently around 350ppm on the TDS meter. I filled it 75% with the old tank water the rest fresh, along with the plants, a big rock and a tiny section of the old tank's filter sponge. The next day I drained 25% and used water from the 20L anoxic tank and added the small pot which has a few scoops of the 20L substrate. The nitrites and nitrates registered for the first 3 days and have been clear for 3 days now. It has a deep bed of Safe T Sorb over an under gravel filter made from plastic fabric that has 7 holes per inch. I pushed the UG plate to the back so I can see inside a little. This picture isn't to scale, but the substrate is about 3 inches on average. The plenum is 7 squares tall (about 1 inch/25mm) with a 3/8" ID vinyl uplift tube (in the picture above it goes from over the 75mm down to under the 25 mm) it then goes to the surface, to monitor the flow. The plenum has some support plates holding it up but is otherwise open. It also has a small cheap intank filter. I blocked most of the lower inlets and cut a weir into the side. There is also a surface divider around the filter and the plenum uplift tube, it has some foam blocks to keep it floating. It's kind of ugly but it keeps the duckweed out of the filter and makes a nice clean surface. it seems a bit overstocked but so far they are all doing very well. I plan to add a male guppy and possibly a new betta.
  3. I had the good fortune of having limited access to an ichthyologist and marine biologist who operate an LFS here in Southern California and work at an aquarium in San Diego. We began what became almost a full year of informal but largely quantified gatherings of data on nitrate reduction techniques and efficacy for freshwater aquariums. Some is unfortunately anecdotal but much of it was quantified in a way that some Aquarists may find helpful. Filtration options for nitrate reduction, can be difficult, expensive and surprisingly fragile. The aerobic bacteria consume ammonia and nitrite, the anaerobic consume nitrates...but the latter are fussy eaters! Nitrate reduction via filtration often has little to no effect as it can take 6-8 months to build a sufficient anaerobic colony to actually reduce nitrates meaningfully...and this requires enormous volumes of media. Far more than would be need for the rest of the nitrogen cycle! We began cultivating anaerobic colonies in pond media and found the amount of media required for an efficacious anaerobic colony to be far greater than would be practical in most instances. Nitrate reduction via anaerobic colony filtration is VERY inefficient and requires voluminous amounts of media for meaningful nitrate reduction. One example being a massive 900gph canister filter with some 6L of media capacity and TWO of these filters with a total of 12L of media, still cannot support enough media for effective anaerobic colonies for a ‘typically stocked 125G SA cichlid tank’ for significant nitrate reduction. Despite the deliberate architecture of this media (BioHome and Pond Matrix) to favor anaerobic colonization, anaerobic bacteria require a slower flow to maintain an oxygen-free environment. To that end the flow rates were rheostatic-ally altered as we found the greatest growth rate of anaerobes to be circa 50GPH. One such filter has ample amounts of flow and media capacity for aerobic colonies (the bacteria that removes ammonia and nitrite), but for anaerobic colonies (the bacteria that consumes nitrates), you’d need FOUR such canisters (25L pond media or similar) to have enough media to reduce nitrates just 10PPM! This "Catch 22" inefficiency is compounded by the reduced flow rate such that nitrate reduction via media is very inefficient. In addition, we also found that the anaerobic colonies are MUCH more fragile than aerobic such that they are easily killed by accident. I cannot quantify this section but I have experienced the results and I’ve yet to successfully neutralize rechargable media (with bleach) well enough to NOT reduce the anaerobic colony count. In fact, re-using rechargable (with bleach) media that was then soaked in dechlorinator for 24 hours still killed off almost 6 out of 8 months growth of the anaerobic colony! Yet the aerobic bacteria saw no drop in population. (I believe "Pond Guru" mentions similar results in one of his videos.) I went a different route after months of trying to get meaningful nitrate reduction in the filters. Instead of trying to get nitrate reduction with more filters or additional media, I tried Epipremnum/riparian plants: roots in the water, leaves out the top. I replaced part of the glass with plastic lighting grid to support the roots and stalks: One tank was a 120G (left) heavily stocked with adult, SA cichlids, 12 Acaras, 2 large plecos and 8 Severums in this case: A 2nd tank, a 125G (left) was heavily stocked with larger fishes, plecos, Oscars and pacu’s (I’ve since had to rehome my beloved pacu’s as they were approaching 18″ in length!): 120G - 125G The following are before and after a two week period with Epipremnum/riparian plants above in these tanks: -The 120 typically reached circa 40ppm after a week when I’d do a WC. -Inside of two weeks, the 120G at 40ppm has yet to ever reach 10ppm. * -The 125 was more problematic with nitrates I was having enormous difficulty controlling. This tank (prior to rehoming the pacu’s) would typically reach 80ppm-160ppm inside of 1 week (!) such that I was performing 2-3 WC’s/week until I could rehome them! -Same time frame, the circa 80ppm-160ppm tank had still not risen to even 30ppm! There was also little question that the nitrates fell further still once we installed grow lights. This is not shown in the pictures as they were not installed yet; -With the lights on 12-16 hours/day or so, the 120 dropped from 10ppm to 5ppm, or possibly 0, it’s that difficult to read. -The 125 dropped to 10ppm and has yet to ever reach 20ppm since adding the grow lights. There are two properties to be mindful of in play and it’s entirely photosynthetic. Terrestrial plants use more nitrates vs ammonia than aquatic plants due to the availability of greater photosynthetic energy. They evolved with leaves under the sun, and in turn, enjoy more light energy which allows them to directly process nitrates more efficiently. Aquatic plants first absorb ammonia and will attempt to expend more energy if need be photosynthetically to consume nitrates so long as enough light energy is present. The latter is more efficacious when the lighting is stronger which is not optimal for most aquatic plants nor the fish as the efficacy of nitrate consumption is quite related to the amount of light the plants are exposed to. Naturally, submerged plants would see diminished light and evolve accordingly. But terrestrial plants evolved for this environment. Specifically, there is a difference between aquatic and terrestrial plants in nitrate assimilation and it's largely spectral. *** I've placed that data at the end of this piece as it's chemistry and some may find it tedious. I used pothos and monstera in my tanks as well as Lucky Bamboo in a 3rd tank. A single, $20 pothos plant has virtually eliminated nitrates in the 120 and the same with the 125 since rehoming the pacu’s: The big (literally and numerically) surprise was the dracaena or Lucky Bamboo. The pothos revealed its full potential in under 2 weeks. Lucky Bamboo took longer to display results, about 4 weeks vs only 2 weeks for pothos, but the 'bamboo' in particular has reduced nitrates so greatly, I’m not confident I can measure any at all with a liquid test kit now: In my disbelief, I went out and bought a fresh liquid test kit to see if mine had spoiled but again, NO nitrates! A fully stocked SA cichlid tank with 0 nitrates? It sounded crazy to me but of all of the plants I’ve tried, Lucky Bamboo is the nitrate eating champion thus far. (What this older image does not show is their growth. In case you were wondering where all those nitrates went, the Lucky Bamboo has grown from 24" stalks to now 6' in height!) I don't bother with rooting cuttings. I just wash the roots and let them drape into the tank through the plastic lighting grid. Of all my fishes, only the Severums eat the roots (and the plecos eat the algae on the roots). NOTE on Pothos Toxicity: We also tested the pothos et al for toxins leaching into the water column. It does not do so at any PH that would allow fish to survive. Additionally, we describe how you can test for pothos (and others) toxins yourself with very inexpensive and commonly available home urinalysis test strips. I'll post this test next as pothos toxicity is understandably a common concern for people considering emergent plants in their tanks. I have seen my Severums eat the pothos roots for over two years without incident: While it may not appeal to everyone, a single Epipremnum/riparian plant can remove virtually all the nitrates directly from the water column if given enough time (weeks). I wish this could be more extensive and exhaustive and less anecdotal but given the limitations of our testing, one thing I can say with confidence, is there's no greater nitrate reduction one can get for a freshwater tank for $20! Many thanks to OnlyGenusCaps for his guidance! *** The Physics Behind Aquatic and Terrestrial Plants Nitrate Assimilation: What nutrients a plant assimilates, ammonia to ammonium or nitrates directly, is of course species-based but largely, it's wavelength based. Terrestrial plants will typically see more red and white light whereas submerged plants not only see subdued white light (relatively), they see a spectral change towards blue which will exhibit much less photosynthetic energy than red such that the plant may not have the available energy to directly consume nitrates and will instead convert ammonia to ammonium. The ammonia/ammonium conversion requires much less energy which is but one reason aquatic plants tend to favor ammonia vs nitrates. This further compounded by the fact that ammonium is a cation and nitrate is an anion so ammonia is more readily processed by this metric as well as this is merely a stage of the entirety of the photosynthetic cycle (direct assimilation of ammonia by plants is caused by insufficient light energy). In aquatic plants, it only need add an ion (a charge) to create ammonium as opposed to the far greater energy required to assimilate nitrate itself (as the charged compound will innately contain additional energy to continue the process). The environmental reason however is largely spectral. The wavelengths that power nitrate consumption reach peak efficacy at about 660nm, Red, or optimal efficacy for chlorophyll and phytochromes (below is such an example but it focuses on green light absorption). Blue light too can power nitrate consumption but it is subdued by water penetration AND in that in concert with the shorter wavelengths and the ionic charges, it is much less efficient in processing nitrates as they require more energy for reduction as opposed to the simple conversion of ammonia to ammonium as aquatic plants do. This chart shows how a plant assimilates nitrates in the first 48 hours of absorption from any given moment. It demonstrates how a submerged plant in subdued and/or bluer light cannot uptake nitrates as efficiently as terrestrial plants under red or white light. The aquatic plant eventually catches up with nitrate assimilation in about 48 hours. The red circled area indicates the actual cation, the point where the plant assimilates ammonia to create ammonium! This process is temporally but entirely bypassed by the terrestrials, direct to nitrate. To that end, with brighter, whiter light and a touch of evolution, it's little wonder why floating plants are commonly called "nitrate sinks"! Perhaps it's only of interest to an old physicist but it is the last chart excites me the most! The old Hindu edict; "Many Paths to the Same Summit" is certainly true here. In inverse order of efficacy in nitrate reduction; be it filter media (anaerobically), aquatic plants or terrestrials , if given enough space, time and quantity, all of these can remove nitrates to similar levels. But their efficacy is very different as they will favor ammonia or nitrate and this changes over time and with the light quality. All told, it's a lot easier for most of us to remove nitrates with plants than filters! * UPDATE: @OnlyGenusCaps made an interesting and important point and allowed me to quote him below. Essentially, that although you can bias a plant towards the consumption of nitrate, ammonia or ammonium with different spectra, it's not necessarily good for the plant! Here is his quote: @OnlyGenusCaps: "There is a big misconception, even among those who work on LED lighting about the importance of matching spectra to absorbance peaks. The problem is it is all an engineer's approach to biology that fails to capture the plasticity of living systems. The "blurple" grow lights are a manifestation of this. The idea is if you match the absorbance peaks of chlorophylls you will minimize the light energy you need to produce and maximize the energy proportion the plant can use. That's all well and good in concept, but plants have myriad antenna pigments they use to harvest other wavelengths, and they gain information from these. These are the colors people see in the autumn on deciduous trees. So, you are totally correct that full spectrum is now being recognized as better for plant growth and health. The best research LED grow light tout matching sunlight as closely as possible. Turns out plants aren't just machines that you can more efficiently plug energy into to get better output. They are living, complex organisms. That's what make it all so much fun!!!" The chart below (I love charts) further illustrates his points. Each stage in the photosynthetic process, does indeed accomplish varying goals for the plant. For example, stomata regulation is largely accomplished by blue light yet red light enjoys the lion's share of CO2 assimilation. That is, the entire spectrum has photosynthetic tasks that overlap but potentiate with specific light color and intensities. To that end, while you can bias a given plant's assimilation with lighting color, red/nitrate, yellow-green/ammonium, blue/ammonia, white is still best for the plant itself:
  4. Hello there, Sorry for the long message/question, wanted to give the full info. Ok I have a 29 gallon 8 month old Aquarium. I first set it up with plants went through the cycle (fish in with 5 zebra danios) all went well only lost 1 danio. After 6 weeks Amonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrites 0 Had a crazy hair algae bloom that just ruined the plants I had purchased at a Petco near my house. ( my fault for keeping the light on way to long) took out those plants and cleaned the glass real good with a algae scraper. Replanted my tank with plants I purchased from Aquarium coop (only place i will buy plants and ferts from now), purchased a new light NICREW ClassicLED Plus Planted Aquarium Light, Full Spectrum with the Pro timer. Doing the Siesta lighting 4 hours on (8am) 5 hours off (noon to 5pm) and 4 1/2 hours on, have the intensity of the light at 60%. (slowly ramp up and down to not shock my fish) Algae has been fine but my Nitates are at 80 or a little more, Amonia 0, Nitrites 0. I am using easy green root tabs for the plants and using easy green liquid fert after weekly water changes which is 10 gallons as I have kinda deep substrate (using Landen Aqua Soil Substrate for Natural Planted Aquarium) for fish I have 4 Zebra Danios, 9 Neon Tetras, 4 Guppies, 6 Cory Cats, 3 Amano Shrimp and 4 ottos. Whats going with my Nitrates? For Filter I am using a Fluval c3 and Make my own Mechanical filter pads, and use Seachem Matrix in the chemical chamber and wet/dry chamber have a small wall of bubbles by the heater on the right side of the tank. (I don't mind and actually like the algae on the back glass)
  5. Hi folks, I've seen a few adds lately for nitrate Absorbing Resins and was wondering if they're genuine or snake oil? Nitrate from the tap is around 20ppm and I'm thinking of filtering it before adding to the tank on water changes Thoughts??
  6. I just finished a 2 week process of deep cleaning my substrate but I still have nitrates showing 80. Will plants handle this high of nitrates and help use it up? Another problem is that my GH is still over 190 ppm
  7. I have a 20 gallon, about 1/2 full of healthy hornwort to combat and prevent green water. But I currently have green water. Been 2 weeks. I'm keeping the light off for now, except a couple hours of very dim per day to help the fish find their food. I've decreased the adult's feeding from 2x to 1x per day, though I shouldn't fast them since about half are preggy, and I can't reduce the feeding for the tiniest fry. The tank is bare-bottom, with a ton of MTS, so no food is getting lost. (I also watch to make sure the filter doesn't grab it.) In the next few days, I'll put a few of my extra neocaridina in there, since they'll help re-process the MTS poo. My current question: Nitrate is ~5. Do I add Easy Green to help the hornwort, or leave nitrates low to starve the green water?
  8. Is there any general idea, based on the number of fish and the size of the tank, regarding the rate of Nitration, without intervention?
  9. My nitrate levels dropped to zero. I use API leaf zone. I have a 3 gallon tank, moderately planted. I’m new to planted tanks, and was told to keep my levels low, but I have also read that a certain level of nitrates are needed. Honestly I’m confused as to what I’m supposed to do.
  10. He had a rough day so he needed a drink on a real note has anyone vodka dosed for nitrates the only issue I still have is sky high nitrates(long story about rookie mistakes corrections are being made or have been made) and with this injury that is not good as it's caused siano bacteria in the tank
  11. What is the best nitrate test product in your opinion? One of the solutions mentioned to deal with nitrate is to add a additive with pre-developed bacteria. Some of the videos speak of adding the bacteria to a tank which is unpopulated? Is it possible to add one of these additives to a tank without harming fish? Do you have a favorite brand? I have done so many water changes that my nitrites are nothing, but my nitrates are high. It is a 40 gallon tank with 10 fish now, so it could create nitrites quickly. The aquarium is planted a bit with a canister filter.
  12. Hello everyone of aquarium co-op! Just wanted to say I'm a big fan and appreciate all of the youtube videos! Ive come here with a bit of a problem. My black ghost knifefish is sick! It looks like a bacterial infection going by the white patches on his gills and I'm treating it with a combo of melafix and kanamycin according to their instructions. But his behavior seems to insinuate something other than a bacterial infection. His behaves as though he's drunk for lack of a better description plus today he isn't eating, and every so often he comes to the top and gulps air which tells me it could be nitrate poisoning which I've read that they die really quick after nitrate poisoning and he has been this way for a couple weeks now. If it is nitrate poisoning I think methylene blue will help but I won't assume anything. It is also noteworthy to mention that this happened very shortly after I added some cory cats to his tank as a clean up crew which could mean he got pricked by their spines and aren't catfish poisonous? What I've done so far to try and help: I've attached a dimmer to his aquarium light to reduce his stress a bit I've added 2 brand new air stones to help his breathing as well as I put a small circulation pump at the top to break the waters surface to aid gas exchange In the water My water test results: Ph - 7.6 Kh - 4 (about 60ppm) Gh - 17 (about 340ppm) Ammonia- 0.25 Nitrite- 0 Nitrates - 40ppm - 80ppm
  13. Ok so I've been thinking about my nitrate levels. I can't seem to keep my nitrates under around 40-50 ppm, which is the same as what my tap water reads as well so though I do some water changes they don't bring nitrates down. I have quite a few plants and I can only assume they are keeping up with the added nitrates from the cycle as my level never seems to go up but they aren't enough to get it significantly lower than what comes out of the tap either. Online I've seen massively differing opinions on what is a good or even safe nitrate level for fish. On average people typically say don't let it go above 40 but plenty of experienced people say they don't worry about it until it's much much higher. Aquascapers seem to suggest keeping it at around 20-30 ppm for plants. On a loach forum I've seen claims that nitrates over 10ppm will kill hillstream loaches, now I kind of saw that as a bit of exaggeration or them being purists - they also mostly suggest that hillstream loaches are only suitable for biotope set ups - than anything else but then my lovely little hillstream loach did die after around 10 days in my tank for unexplained reasons so maybe there is more to it? I've ordered a pothos and will see if I can use that to suck up some more of my nitrates before getting another hillstream loach but in the meantime I wondered what everyone else's thoughts/experiences with nitrates were? Does pH affect how toxic it is in the same way as ammonia? Or anything else that means 40 ppm of nitrates in one table/water is not the same as 40 ppm in a different tank? Can a high nitrate level be indicative of a different issue? Are some fish literally so sensitive they would die at over 10ppm? Is there another piece to the puzzle I'm missing? Is there a way to test oxygen levels? Is there another way to reduce nitrates?
  14. I'm not one to chase numbers, and everything is going good in my tank. But, in what ways can I lower my Nitrates? They're consistently 40ppm on a weekly basis. API Master Test Kit is used. I have a 10g planted tank. Plants include: Anubias Nana Petite, Crypt Wendtii Green, Crypt Parva, Rosette Sword, Bacopa Caroliniana, Anubias Frazeri, Crypt Lutea, Banana Plant, Ammania Gracilias, Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus, Dwarf Aquarium Lily. Livestock: 5 Chili Rasboras, 7 Ember Tetras, 3 Kubotai Rasboras Inverts: 1 Nerite snail, 2 Blue Velvet Shrimp I do weekly water changes. I rinse out my AquaClear 30 every water change, I squeeze out the sponge in tank water, and change out the filter floss. My GE T8 4100k Florescent is on a 7 hour light cycle - on a timer.
  15. I have had a constant battle with nitrates in my 45 gallon. Sitting roughly over 80 ppm nitrates. I have graveled vacced everything (substrate is about 4 inches deep) ive cleaned the sponges in the filter along with the large aquarium coop sponge and i still am testing high nitrates. I have performed multiple 30% water changes. Stocking is 6 golden rams and a bristle nose. Could rotting plants be the issue? I have had a stem plants that keeps sending out roots but is mushy and doesnt grow. could this be the issue?
  16. Hey all, I have a 75 gallon heavily planted tank with community fish and I do water changes typically every 3-4 weeks my nitrates typically always stay around 10-20 ppm but last week I put in some API root tabs for some of my plants and tested my water today with the CoOps test strips and API test kit and my nitrates are through the roof. Like 100ppm. Nothing has changed except the root tabs, is it possible the root tabs caused the jump in my nitrates?
  17. Recently got my planted main tank back onto a more normalized fert schedule, got my CO2 refilled, and dialing it all back in after about a year of severe depression made me neglect the tank pretty badly. Sorry to my plants and fish (luckily no losses), but I'm back! Anyways, on Friday, I did a fairly large water change ~60% (meant to do 50, but got sidetracked while draining, whoops) to bring my nitrates down from ~80ppm, and then dosed dry ferts (potassium sulfate, monopotassium phosphate, magnesium sulfate, edta micro mix) to add approx 24ppm potassium, 2ppm phosphate, 6ppm magnesium, and 2ppm iron (also contains other micros, but majority iron) in a modified EI dose. I've never intentionally dosed nitrates since fish waste has always provided more than enough in the past... however, when checking my water today, I was down to ~20ppm nitrate. If I keep my current bio load (11 neon tetras, 5 rummynose, 6 cory cats, about 12 juvenile guppies) and 2x daily feeding schedule, am I going to have to start dosing nitrates as well? Do those of you who have high tech tanks find you bottom out nitrates unless you dose?
  18. For a tank with PH around 7 with cardinal tetras and a breeding group of L134
  19. I just did my pre medication chemistry and noted my Nitrates are 40. There ar 15 Otto's and 1 Panda Corydora in there (and pest snails to keep it cycled). QT trio is complete (dosed on Saturday June 26th) and I usually do a second dose of Paracleanse (day 3. Should I hold doing that? They are fasting and I did a water change and vac prior to starting the QT meds. They are all fine, swimming around happy as can be. There are no signs of illness at all. This is week 2 in QT. Week one I feed them and observe, and week 2 medicate, week 3 observe. I know that 40 can be okay. I do have plants in little terracotta pots and the tank is bare bottom. Just wanted to make sure that if I medicate it will not be an issue. Here are the rest of the parameters: PH 7.3, Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 40.
  20. What might cause continued high nitrates in a tank that is heavily planted and gets regular water changes? I gravel vac regularly (every few weeks) and water change about 25% weekly. Nitrates out of the tap are 0. Heavily planted 10 gallon with only 3 guppies, snails, and shrimp. Has internal filter and sponge filter. Would not cleaning the filter often increase nitrates? I have a similar situation happening in one of my 29 gallon with platies, but not the my 3 other tanks.
  21. So... my parents' house has well water and a water softener system installed so it has a GH of 0. Unfortunately, there is still around 40-50ppm of nitrate in the tap water itself. I am looking for something on the market that can specifically remove nitrate from the tap water when I do water changes. I found something like this: https://www.filterwater.com/ps-350-7-inline-nitrate-removal-cartridge.aspx Does anyone have any experience with products like these? Anyone else have nitrates in their well water? What did you do about it?
  22. Hello Everyone, I have posted a similar question before but this time i need help in relation to my planted tank. Parameters: 30G with weekly 30-40% water changes. Been running for 8+ months. Moderately heavy planted- Java fern, Crinnum, Ludwigia, Crypt, Some grass like plant i forgot name of, dwarf hairgrass, water lettuce, frogbit,water sprite, amazon sword variant. Ph-Always around 7 Ni-0 Am-0 Na- Always around 40 and higher if water change is delayed or missed. Stock- 2 adults Honey Gouramis, 2 fry HGs, 6 F. Julii Corys, 3 Otos, 2 nerites What I cannot figure out is: 1. I am around 80% stocked as per online calculators. Do I have to rehome anything? 2. Why do my plants struggle so much with absorbing Nitrates? 2. I cannot add ferts as it means having to change water more than twice a week . I put a tab once a month targeting different plant each time. 3. I thought floaters would help but even after extending the photo period the plants under them visibly pale for the lack of light. 4. The Epiphytes do very well hence I don’t tend to put liquid ferts. I am redoing the tank in couple of weeks and would love to set this one for success now that I am more educated about this than the first time. Thank you.
  23. Nitrite is up, Nitrate holding steady and pH is up slightly. After testing I dosed three pumps of Easy Green (low light) bottle says once per week. Should I stick to that while cycling? 05-19 0900 Ammonia 0 ppm Nitrite 0.15 ppm Nitrate 80 ppm pH 6.6 05-20 0930 Ammonia .10 ppm Nitrite .20 ppm Nitrate 80 ppm pH 6.4 05-21 0900 Ammonia .50 ppm Nitrite 1.0 ppm Nitrate 80 ppm pH 6.6
  24. Hey guys, need some advice. I recently bought a 43 gallon tank and have cycled it but have now tested my tap water and looked at a local water report, and my tap water comes out at about 40ppm nitrate, 37.8 according to the report. I have 2 bristlenose pleco, and was planning to add 6 mollies, 6 guppies, and 6 corydoras, possibly glass catfish as well. Now I am uncertain as to what I should do? I dont have the kind of money to buy an RO unit or buy water from a shop each week instead of using tap water. My tank is rather well planted but it seems based on water changes and testing this has not been enough to bring it below 40ppm. Thanks in advanced for any advice.
  25. I went to a larger tank a week ago. Used sponge filters some established substrate on very bottom adding new substrate over it. Used decorations and plants from established tank. Let new tank run for 24 hours before adding the fish I took out of old tank that were in a bucket. Been testing water daily all testing came out good until today. My Nitrates are extremely high using the API testing kit. i did a 15% water change and will check it later today. What else can I do? I have no fish loss ——knock on wood. Fish are all extremely active and eating well. Input please.
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