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About Me

Found 11 results

  1. Hey Y'all. I had a few betas prior to this but after reading Co-op I realized I've been keeping them in a way too small tank. So for my daughters Christmas present I wanted to do it right! I got a 5 gal tank (Top Fin Retreat tank) with filter and added a heater. I've been spot checking the heater and its been staying between 79-81. I got a Plakat Beta (as they look a bit like Koi and she initially wanted a goldfish) and a blue mystery snail. I set up the tank about a week before. I got the snail and Fish on Thursday from a local small fish store (I think they breed them?). The snail seems to be doing well, but the Beta is REALLY low energy. He doesn't seem to want to eat either, and just wants to hang out by the Heater. There does seem to be a bit of film on the top of the water. I'd really like to be able to give my daughter a live fish in a week (and honestly Im really excited about having a fish again). Ps. Currently only have faux plants because at some point we will be moving back to NYC and I figure moving a planted aquarium will be much harder. But once we get there Im looking forward to starting a planted aquarium.
  2. A few hours after properly dosing ( based on directions) my planted tanks with Seachem Flourish, Searchem Nitrogen, (and Flourish Excel though it should be irrelevant), my API test kit indicates 0 ppm of nitrates. Should this be the case? If not, perhaps could it be a problem with the test kit?
  3. I made a DIY aquarium test tube stand and drying rack today because I am tired of spilling my tests, breaking test tubes, and not getting my equipment to dry. The main focus of the build was to reuse as many materials on hand as possible to keep costs low (less than a $1 at this point). I used a leftover piece of PVC trim for a base, a wooden dowel for the stand, and metal closet organizer rubber end caps as the tips. I am planning to paint the dowels white and glue everything in place after I work out the kinks using it few more times. My impressions from the first few uses is that it is great and makes it so much easier to test the water. In use - its water change time: I am curious if anyone else on the forum has built something like this and has any additional tips. Also, reagent storage tips would be helpful as well. I have more bottles than something like the API master test kit bin can accept and would like to keep everything together. Thanks.
  4. Hey Folks, I thought I'd share something I did to help keep me organized. I have been testing my water more regularly lately and found I had settled into a standard list of equipment. In order to protect the finish of my wood desk and keep things together I was using a plate from the kitchen. This worked but it wasn't the best for moving from the upstairs tank to the down stairs and vice versa. Also there wasn't much working room. I stopped by a local craft supply store today and found a plastic box designed to store 5x7 photographs: This was a nice size. It has room for my tubes, pipette, cell tray common test cards with room to spare. With the lid open there is even a nice place to put the caps of the test chemicals such that they won't leave a blue ring on the counter top! The thin profile also allows me to tuck this away when not in use. Happy fish keeping! 🐠
  5. I've always questioned the accuracy of test strips and have often times received weird results from them. Yesterday, I tested my display tank for nitrates. I'm trying to keep it at a level of nitrates adequate for good plant growth. I figured this would be ideal for the test strips as I could easily test it daily. My test strip showed zero nitrates in the tank. While this tank doesn't have a huge bio-load, I do add fertilizer regularly so this result didn't seem plausible. I pulled out my API Master test kit which revealed a level of 80 ppm. Are these test strips just completely worthless or is it just me? Is there another way for me to quickly and easily test nitrates in a tank?
  6. So I'm starting to wonder if I'm using this kit correctly. how do you guys look at the tube after wards from the side or do you look at the bottom or top of the tubes. I might be over thinking this. so since i test realized i forgot to look at my results does the if you leave the test longer then 5 mins will that effect your results ??
  7. After feeding fishes with frozen brine shrimp i noticed my water parameters for nitrite and ammonia have gone up. does any one has experiences. when is to test the water parameters before or after food.
  8. I know I know, Cory has done a video on this. But I am a numbers and charts person, so I wanted to offer some more data on this topic. I have a background in chemistry and I know a lot of you NERMS on here like this sort of detailed analysis, so here it goes. Once I saw the video, I thought it was genius! Of course! If you are in the ballpark, much better to use those quick test strips (which you will use more often than the liquid kit because they are so easy. As a reminder, you can see Cory's video here: Because I thought this was great info, I went out and bought some test strips to compliment my API test kit. Of course, like any info on the internet, I also wanted to test it. I did a quick test a few weeks ago and got very different results. Whoa! That's weird, and not what Cory's video showed! So today I sat down and did some more precise testing/recording numbers. For this experiment, we have to accept that the human eye just sucks at interpreting color accurately. If we wanted to get super precise numbers, we would want something like a spectrometer, but that's not financially realistic for the average person. (Doesn't mean I'm not looking 'em up on ebay after this...) I have two different tanks I tested this on, but only once each time. One is a planted 60 gallon community tank and the other is a 10 gallon snail tank. I try to keep the gH higher in the snail tank for shell health, so that measurement is particularly important. Both tanks are moderately/heavily planted. The snail tank is overstocked, but I'm pretty diligent about water changes. The Community tank is a little understocked, and please note that I administered some General Cure today to deworm, so that could potentially interfere with results. When I did the test, I had to break my bad habit of not shaking the API test kit for a full minute. You can categorize this under "I am smarter than the sum knowledge of all fishkeepers." arrogance. Surely, not shaking for a full minute couldn't make that big a difference, right? Well, I can get into my previous quick and dirty results, but yes, you need to shake for the full minute. I got very different nitrate results when doing this. Anyway, you can't test the API kit if you aren't going to use it according to the instructions. Please note that I DID NOT USE THE API TEST KIT FOR pH. I have a pH meter which I consider to be the most accurate option available, therefore I compared the test strip to the API kit on nitrate, nitrite, gH and kH. You can see the results below in chart and list form: OK, so what are we seeing? Well first we're seeing that my nitrate levels in my tank are WAY high and I need to fix it, but that's for another day. Within the community tank, everything is pretty much the same between Tetra and API. This is consistent with Cory's results. Now if we look at the Snail tank, we see some variation. Ph and nitrite are looking the same, but gH, kH, and most concerningly nitrate are showing differences. The difference in nitrate could be because of the logarithmic scale it uses to refer to color. Ever notice how the measurement chart jumps from 0, to 5, to 10, then 20, then 40, etc? It's a bigger and bigger difference with each color change on the chart. So if you have a very high concentration that you are reading, and you're having trouble reading it, your mistake matters more than if you were reading something closer to 5. (Ex. Is it 5 or 10? Eh, it's close. Is it 40 or 80? Whoa, big difference!) I did have trouble figuring out the color of the nitrate on the API test kit; I have included pictures of the results here so that others can give input, if you like. Please note that because I thought the API nitrate reading was between 40 and 80 ppm, I split the difference and called it 60ppm. I have no explanation for the difference in KH and GH readings. API results for Snail tank: Tetra test strip Snail tank results: OK so what does all of this mean? I think it means that if your tank is generally healthy and you are just doing regular water checks (once a week, once a month, etc) and you want a heads up on anything that might be an issue, you're probably ok using the Tetra test strips. But if you are having issues with something, you may want to try the API kit. BUT, I would argue that we don't really know which method is more accurate. Within the fish community, we sing the praises of the accuracy of the API Master test kit. But why? What are we comparing it to? Well, we have reports of the test strips going bad very easily, so that's one reason. But ideally, I would want to measure my water parameters with a mass spectrometer (this is me being a super nerd- it is a scientific instrument which gives you VERY accurate reports of concentration. Again, not realistic for the home hobbyist at all! But has anyone every tried it? Ever? Anywhere? I expect API did the testing, but those aren't exactly easy to look up. Why do we choose API as the best? I think it's worth considering. Tl;dr The API Master test kit has fairly similar results to the Tetra strips if you are measuring low concentrations (everything in your tank is going as expected,) but there can be major differences if you have something like nitrates very high. This is because it's tough for the human eye to read colors accurately. I have no explanation for the differences in kH and gH in one tank but not the other. Also, consider that we don't necessarily know that the API Master kit is the most accurate. Everyone says it is, but what are we comparing it to? Thanks for coming to my TED talk. lol I don't work as a chemist anymore so sometimes it's just nice to get this out of my system. I hope some folks find this helpful/interesting.
  9. Alright everyone, I did full rounds of treatments together of API Pimafix, Melafix, and EM Erythromycin. I lost many fish to red sores, white cotton mouth fungus/bacteria, and fin rot. I have done proper water changes, my levels are all good, and I replaced the carbon filter (since I couldn't have a carbon filter in during treatment). A week or maybe 2 after the treatments, I now have a black skirt tetra losing the bottom of its back fin, and the fishes gills are looking more red again. So do I do another round of all of these treatments or try something else?
  10. Its not pretty ik😂 but it fits the theme lol, and really makes me wonder what else I could use legos for in this hobby
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