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  1. So the bottom of the tank I am refurbishing is drilled so the overflow and return come up through the bottom allowing for a more flush fit to the wall. It had an Aquoen Overflow kit with the large back piece. What can I do to be able to put this back together with out the large black piece. What is the name of the large black piece? I'm such a newb! There is a article by CO-OP that outlines using filter media, polyester yarn and plants to build your own back ground , which is what I wnat to do. I will paint the piping to blend into the planting. Then plant tall growing plants round them. Which I would like better then large black towers. So, question is. How can I get that done? Hopefully with out a ton of noise. OH, it is going to flow into a seamless Sump system underneath.
  2. It seems too often that I have failed ideas. Things that are sometimes interesting and maybe worth learning from but aren't worth a new thread. I am making this thread as a singular place to share them, for me, and for anyone else who wants to share any failed ideas too. To start it off, I'm not a huge fan of picking eggs off of yarn spawning mops and I made an attempt at designing a 3d printed modular chain for my rice fish to lay eggs on. My test was not successful. Back to yarn for now.
  3. I know this is a super stupid question but, when ordering new bulkheads for the tank I am refurbishing. I measure the size of the hole and that is the size I order correct? So I have four holes total in the bottom of the tank. Two for out on each side and two for in on each side. Outs are 1 3/4 ins are 1 1/2. So that is the size I order correct? I ask because the 1 3/4 size doesn't seem that common when U am trying to find them online to order,
  4. This project has been in the works for months and I'm so excited to share it with everyone! I've done a lot of research on stand building and my husband took a one-on-one class from a master furniture maker in the area. So hopefully between those two things, this stand will turn out looking decent. First things first--the plan. I used SketchUp to render the plan in 3D. This was *immensely* helpful and I highly recommend anyone do this who's thinking of building a stand. You can get a 30 day free trial, which is plenty of time to do what you need. Front view: Back view: (No don't worry it won't be these colors--I'll explain the colors later.) My goal was for this stand to hold a 75 gallon on top and some 10 gallons length-wise on the bottom (with room above them to do maintenance), have a storage cabinet big enough for a 5 gallon bucket, and a middle shelf for storage. I also wanted it to look vaguely like a piece of furniture. Here's a sketch-up with a 55 on top and two 10 gallons and one 5 gallon on the bottom. There will be a door on the cabinet eventually, but that's something I can add later. I followed the basic strategy that the King of DIY outlines in his youtube videos. The weight of the aquariums must be supported directly on the stand's legs. So each of the six legs has two parts--an outer, solid piece that directly supports the weight of the top, and inner pieces that stack around the middle shelf, directly supporting the weight of the top frame. The top and bottom shelf have a frame underneath (edges in pink) with joists (brown) running front-to-back. The different colors represent different sizes of wood. We (read: my husband) used our neighbor's planer to plane 2x4's down in order to get rid of the rounded edge. We're hoping it makes the piece look more legit. Fuchsia is 3.5" by 1.125" Green is 2.75" by 1.5" Brown is a regular 2x4 (3.5" by 1.5") White is flat board--3/4" thick on the shelves, and 1/4" thick on the sides of the cabinet One reason we planed 2x4s instead of buying nicer wood without the curved edges is that we already had a ton of 2x4s lying around. Plus wood is really expensive right now! So using what we had made sense in a lot of ways. Today was a beautiful day so I cut all the pieces I'll need. I've never done all my cuts before starting assembly before, and there's no way I would have done it without the SketchUp plans. But I cut the pieces for the frame and then realized I didn't have the right screws, so I decided to keep cutting while I had energy and everything was set up. My work station: My work buddies: (In the background you can see the project that led to us having a ton of 2x4s: the chicken coop!) Here's all the wood that's going to go into the stand. It's a lot. This thing is going to be soooooo heavy.
  5. Give your kids the gift of Murphy cookies, indoctrinating them in the Co-op ways and ensuring a bright a successful future :) Not spectacular results but not terrible, the wife and I are not cookie experts at all, although she is very good at most other forms of cooking/baking. Perhaps a shortbread dough would have had better results. This was just for funsies anyways. 3D printed cutter and stamp we tried.
  6. The Tidal35 is a good HOB filter but it does have a really funny shaped basket. If you're using cut-to-size floss you have to make a template to get it to fit nicely (though you can kinda cram it in there too). I keep loosing the ones I make so I traced out a template on my computer. It's shaped a bit different from the included sponge because there's a bit more space on the top. I know there's a few tidal 35 users around so hopefully others will find this handy. Just remember to print at 100% size in your printer settings.Template for tidal35 basket
  7. Hi everyone, This is my 30 liter high tech nano tank. I built this tank myself 🙂 Above this tank I have a 60 liter high tech tank with lots of stem plants. I quickly discovered that if I don't trim that tank on a weekly basis it quickly becomes overgrown and loses it's aesthetic appeal. The goal for this tank long term is to grow mainly rare plants (at least rare in my country) and have it as low maintenance as possible. Here is a picture from today: Rare (relative to my country) Plant list: Anubias pinto (white leaved anubias) Anubias gold leaf Cryptocryne flamingo (took me two years to track down this plant and it cost me the equivalent of 30 USD from another hobbiest) Pogostemon helferi (green and red variations) Nympheae tricolor Nympheae minuta (in ideal condition this plant flowers underwater) I am using the EI method to dose this tank. currently maintaining this tank is pretty easy. I perform a weekly 50% water change and every other week I trim the moss. My plan is to eventually have the Anubias pinto cover the drift wood, but until it spreads enough I'm using moss too keep algae at bay, I still have some Rotala Hra in the back left over. It was added mainly to keep algae at bay when the tank was just set up. Bonus pic of the Israeli Freshwater Nerite @Bentley Pascoe is lusting after 😉
  8. I've used a towel in the past and don't remember having any issues with water damage. It's been a long time though and I wonder if anyone else has used them to protect furniture used as a stand? For my two previous aquariums I used plexiglass cut larger than the size of furniture (a nightstand, and an old radio cabinet) and it works fairly well, but I do sometimes spill and water will get under the plexiglass, so I have to carefully lift and dry underneath. The latest 6.8 gallon aquarium will ideally go on a dresser, which cannot be fully covered with plexiglass and there won't be enough extra space to lift plexiglass and dry underneath. The aquarium does have a thin foam sheet on the bottom, but I considered putting a towel underneath in hopes that water dripping during a water change would be absorbed, but not damage the dresser. I ruined a desk years ago when water and the aquarium caused the veneer to come off when I moved it. 😞 I know...a stand dedicated to an aquarium is ideal, but that can't happen in this space. Anyone have experience using a towel or something else? Thanks!
  9. Just scored these from work boss said I could have them half the work and cost is done for me now to just add the legs and braces. Anyone build there own stands thinking have it four foot tall so gonna need 8 four foot pieces 2 at 5ft for long cross brace and 8 at like 12 inches for the with cross braces any tips pictures or advice is welcome. As this will be my first stand build
  10. Well… not really hacks but maybe alternate uses? Im sure some of you have done similar things but I thought these were worth sharing even tho they are very simple because theyve worked out for me. If you have a tip or just an unconventional use for a product thats working for you feel free to share here. Like many of you i keep floating plants and they can really make feeding a pain. I picked up one of these Coop Worm Feeder Cones for $2.99 and found that if you pop the cone out it makes the perfect plant free feeding ring. You could make a floating ring for pretty cheap but this one stays in place thanks to the suction cup and is hardly noticeable. As an added bonus it doubles as an actual worm feeder cone. The second tip is you can turn your coop EZ Planter into a Kuhli Loach Motel or Fry hideout by just adding some holes. Because theyre hollow you can easily drill holes all around and give tiny critters or in my case my kuhli loaches more access. My kuhlis love the planter and i get to watch them popping in and out of the planter holes all day.
  11. Hey everyone, long time no post! We are kind of short-staffed at the store right now, so I've been working a lot and haven't had much free time to hang out here. As a side note, if you're interested in working at a fish store and you're near Plano, TX, let me know 😉 If you've got egg crate kicking around like I normally do, this test kit rack will probably cost you nothing. I did put some clear mylar on the bottom to keep the tubes from falling out, but you could just as easily just put another piece of egg crate offset under the bottom panel. Everything is just stuck together with super glue and I cut the egg crate with wire cutters. I'll eventually put a handle on it or something to make it easier to carry, but it's not that difficult to pick it up by the sides, either. Feel free to use, improve upon, and mix up this idea. Hopefully it helps someone out!
  12. Howdy Nerms, I hacked my coop fish feeder for outside duty on my 150 gallon rubber made tub. Disclaimer - the coop fish feeder is designed for indoor use only. I imagine It’s design and construction was not meant for outside elements but humidity from a tank was considered so I took a chance. I am in New England (Mass to more clear) and our tub season no heater is four months tops. I have guppies and rice fish and dream of lots of fry. Well I am going away for 10 days and I needed them fed several times a day to keep them happy hence the feeder. So I needed a feeder enclosure. I didn’t want to build a wood barn for the feeder because heck that would be so much work and I would have needed to start that a month ago and that would have cut in to my staring at fish time. I will skip the rest of the narrative - recycle bin found a one liter seltzer bottle cut a “t” slot in as long as feeder. The top of the t at bottom of the bottle. The t shape allows barrel food slot to dispense all the food. I inserted the feeder in the bootle. I used a one litter Poland springs seltzer bottle. Snug but no touching the sides of feeder. You slide the feeder back and the bracket can lock it in to place. You may have to make this part work for you, this could be trial and error. The bracket will stick out to attach to rail you have. As you can see in my night photos sorry. Totally see through and rain hits it and rolls off. I let you know how it does.
  13. Most serious aquarists invest in good lighting—especially for planted tanks. Dropping a few hundred dollars is not unusual for lighting a single aquarium. Now, a confession: I’m a cheapskate. Raising a bunch of kids... I don’t have a lot of excess money. I already spend too much on this hobby, and breed and sell fish to cut the edge off the costs. SO... Here’s my approach to lighting. I buy very cheap $10 LED under-cabinet lights at WalMart. 900+ lumens. 5,000-K. Now, the thing I’ve found is that this light is often too _bright_ for long photo periods. So what I’ve done as a cheap DIY is to lay black cupboard liner underneath these lights. I can move these around to filter more or less light as desired. Here are some examples... Fishroom “dark morning”... liners filtering most light on tanks... Example of liner under LEDs... Here is the tank lighting with liners filtering light... And now here is the same tank with _one_ liner moved so LED is full... Now, here is another tank with a low-end block-light aquarium LED that clips on the sides. I still use cupboard liners. Here is direct light filtration... Here is _partial_ light filtration providing partial light... And here again is the tank with no light filtration... Now, obviously a nice programmable light of high quality will do much, much more. I do sort of envy everyone’s fancy, expensively-lit tanks! 😂 But if you’re on a budget... while still suffering from MTS... this post is for you.
  14. The title kind of summarizes it but long story short: my cat broke the lid for my TopFin 5.5g (fat feline thinks the fish tank is his pedestal, but that’s another issue). Since this is a betta tank, I quickly found the dimensions of the tank and found an Aqueon lid at my local Petco that was for a 5.5g. I knew there was a probability that the lid wouldn’t fit because it’s not the same brand (and of course, Petsmart doesn’t offer replacements for any of their TopFin products) but I felt kind of pushed for time because I didn’t have much that I could use to cover the tank to keep my betta from making a suicidal jump to the fishy underworld. Unsurprisingly, it’s not an exact fit, but it’s pretty close (pictures attached). It measures a little less than 3/16” off. My question is: has anyone done some DIY mastery thing to increase the width of a rim of a tank whereby I could shimmy this in? Or am I out of luck and should try something else? Or should I simply leave it sitting on top and secure it there (not preferable as I live in the atrium to Hell a.k.a Arizona and top off is a major chore if I don’t have a sealed glass lid)? Many thanks in advance🙂
  15. Hello! I am planning to start doing more high tech aquarium setups. Learning about Co2 I came accross a video that did a DIY version. They did this by mixing 3.5 g of dried yeast, 200 mg of sugar, and water in a empty plastic water bottle. They then took airline and supergued it to a hole on the cap along with a diffuser. Would this work? If so, are there certain plants that this wouldn't work for? I attached a link to the video. The particular section I'm asking about starts at 4:56. Thanks!
  16. I have a 27g tank that I bought and it came with an extremely long gravel cleaner that I cannot get the suction to start. Any advice? I'm thinking of cutting it down to a shorter length.
  17. My colleague knew I’d built some aquarium stands, and asked me to build one for a Youth Program (i.e. not for fish). I built it today just like I’ve done them for my fishroom, knowing that one day.... it might come back this way! First I measure out the middle shelf and cut squares... Then I line up the posts and screw them together using some soap on the threads... Once shaped up, it starts looking right... Then apply some Krylon ColorMaxx paint + Primer, and... Done! (Note: this is designed to hold a 20-long on top with extra lip space for testing items, plus a 10 gal on the middle shelf, with enough room for a Lee’s large specimen container to easily pour in from above 👍)
  18. Just out shopping, and thought I’d start a thread about “random aquarist items from the grocery store.” Snapped a few photos. (1) Rooibos Tea — excellent source for limited tannins. For heavy tint, 1x bag / gallon for 24 hrs. We use for Killifish eggs to cut down on fungus. Smells nice in the fishroom! (2) Clorox — for cleaning certain items, like shells, Diffusers, etc. kills off algae. MUST be treated with plenty dechlorinator in fresh water before using in Aquarium again. Still, it has its place. (3) Cupboard Liners — we use these under LED lights to diffuse lights when too bright. Easy to cut to fit. Also helpful underneath smaller tanks to keep them from slipping. (4) Measuring Cups — We prefer plastic, but glass cleans off really well. Many uses. Mixing frozen food with tank water, pouring room-temp water over black worms, etc. (5) Cooking Baster — great for sucking up, feeding, etc. cheaper at a grocery than aquarium store. (6) Skewers — We use to gently stir up gravel for limited-space vacuuming with small tube / siphon when normal gravel vac is too disruptive, risks sucking up fry, etc (trick learned from Rachel O’Leary — she used chopsticks) (7) Sealed Lid Storage Containers — We are learning that the best way to keep dry food fresh is to refrigerate bottles inside a zip-locked bag inside a sealed-lid storage container. That’s 4-steps to ensure freshness: fridge, closed container, sealed bag, and sealed lid. Next time you’re in the grocery, I’d love to learn what you use!
  19. After some investigation, know how, and a bit of help I put together the bits to run a USB air pump off of solar power for my pond in a water resistant electrical box.
  20. I am looking for recommendations for heavy duty steel racks for 20 gallon aquariums for my fish room. looking for it to hold 4-5 tanks on each rack. Thanks!
  21. I was curios if anybody has any Aquarium life hacks, diy hacks, and money saving tips? Here is some of mine: Here is a video of my money saving tips: This is my diy towel hanger:
  22. The purpose of this thread is to document my trials and tribulations while trying to build a "simple" aquarium stand. And let me just say, I have mad respect for the King of DIY; he does a ton of giant projects all by himself! For us beginners though, there some things that he leaves out. This will hopefully help people see what they are getting into and to avoid the mistakes I made. I have minimal tools (dremel, drill) and live in an apartment. I'll show you how I tackled this and how long it takes, along with the *real* costs. You know what I mean, you did something wrong so you have to buy something to fix it, etc. Here's what we're trying to build, for 20gal aquariums: I began last weekend. Per Joey, it only took him 45 min to slap this thing together. I consider myself fairly handy, so I should be able to do that, right? LOL NO. Since I didn't have a saw, I was planning to rent a miter saw from Home Depot. My husband was dubious about this, so we got a miter box and saw to try to cut the 2x4s. This did not work. My husband is a pretty fit guy, but the miter box just wasn't a good idea. There were too many cuts and we couldn't even get through one. This was, in part, due to the fact that we didn't have a sturdy table (just those cheap Ikea ones that wobble quite a bit.) So I would say avoid this route unless you have experience using it. I decided to have Home Depot cut it for me. The first two cuts are free, and 50 cents each after that. I was not counting on the associate being high as a kite though. I explained what I needed and he looked at me with that dreamy "I don't care" look, so I just had him cut some plywood (to make the shelves useful of I ever stop using it for aquariums.) The 8ft boards barely fit in the SUV, but fit it did. Oh, and did I mention, you have to go through and pick out the best boards? Yes. You must go to the stack of 2x4s and look at each board. Some of them are not even rectangular. Some of them are very crooked. Some are missing chunks. You don't want any of those. Your boards won't be perfect, but they should be fairly straight with no major defects. For my project, I took home six 8ft 2x4 boards. Note that 2x4s are NOT 2" by 4". They are actually 1.5" by 3.5". Make sure your measurements/calculations reflect this. I rented the miter saw and reviewed the little safety video detailed in the instructions. It was actually really easy to use. I was careful to use eye and ear protection and gloves, although the gloves were not really necessary (they made it more cumbersome when marking off measurements.) To best use the miter saw, you are really going to want to use a clamp, and I dished out like 20 cents for a carpenter's pencil. It helps make marks more accurate because it can mark closer to the edge. (Not strictly necessary but nice.) As I said before, I did not have a sturdy table, so I opted to saw on the floor of my patio. THIS IS NOT ADVISED IN THE SAFETY MANUAL. Do so at your own risk. When you start drilling things together, MAKE SURE YOU DOUBLE CHECK WHICH ONES YOU PUT TOGETHER! I made this mistake, and that's why I am here doing this project a week later. I felt like a special smart person and decided "I'll even wood glue these together!" That was a bad idea. Additional updates pending. I am still working on this today so I will update after. Sneak peek: troubles include stripped screws, incorrect bits, trying to remove wood glue, and a broken drill bit.
  23. Can I see some DIY aquarium stands? I’m not very crafty so the easier the better! 😉 Thanks!
  24. Planted Nano Pea Puffer Cube For the first time ever, I have a beautiful rimless all-in-one aquarium. Over the weekend, my partner and I picked up a Tideline AIO 11.3G, which is just under 14” cubed. Our eventual goal is to house a single pea puffer (and possibly some amano shrimp as cleanup crew). As a seasoned aquarist, I know this aquarium will take a while to establish before I can add our new tiny friend. In the mean time, I will be keeping a journal about its progress. Full disclosure, I did pretty much pull this entire post directly from my blog. I use the blog to share information with friends and family and document my journey, but it makes it rather easy when I can format it there and just paste everything over here to spark conversation. Hope you enjoy! 💚ALL PLANTS ARE FROM AQUARIUM CO-OP💚 The Process Substrate Egg crate structure with *Magic Mud™️ There are two additional layers of egg crate stacked in the back to create depth without using excess substrate. It also brings the nutrient layer up a bit so it’s easier for the plants in the back to reach. As you can see, there’s about 1/2” of space from the edge of the egg crate to the glass, allowing me to keep a clean edged look on this rimless tank. In the back, I have a total of 1.5” of nutrient-rich layer. This will help feed the Sagittaria subulata (dwarf sag), Ludwigia repens, and Helanthium tenellum (dwarf chain sword) without having to reach their roots through 4” of sand. Hardscape Initial substrate pour. Sand is Caribsea Super Naturals Torpedo Beach and accent gravel is Spectrastone shallow creek regular. Addition of hardscape. I am unsure what kind of wood this is, but it’s very splintery and the glue wasn’t holding very well. Instead, I chose to zip tie it temporarily to ensure it doesn’t disturb anything or shift when I filled the tank. The rocks are a grayish toned dragon stone. All hardscape and sand was acquired from Dallas North Aquarium, which is an excellent store and I do highly recommend them. Top-down view. As you can see, I chose a budget light, the Lominie Asta 20. I will write a full review once I have tested the light for a decent period of time, but so far I really like it. Planting Addition of Sagittaria subulata – contained in the back corner behind the hard scape. My hope is that the hardscape will keep it from taking over the tank. This stuff grows fast and I really don’t want to be yanking up runners every week. Cryptocoryne wendtii sp. pink flamingo in the front (I am so ridiculously excited about this plant, it’s so pretty!) and Ludwigia repens just behind. Althernanthera reineckii and Helanthium tenellum added, and some baby java ferns tucked into the holes in the rocks. We added some Anubias nana petite, some Bucephalandra sp. Green wavy, and shoved some moss (Christmas moss? Unknown sp) into the splintery bits of the driftwood. The zip tie is a bit unsightly, but I would much rather have an unsightly zip tie for a month than have my hard work ruined by a stubborn piece of wood. I squeezed an established sponge filter over the tank, filled it, and started up the filter! After about 10 hours, the water is tannic, but no longer super hazy. The filter pump is a little too aggressive for my liking, so I have one on order that’s a much slower 80gph instead of 150gph. A single pea puffer isn’t going to need that much crazy filtration, and quite honestly the poor thing would probably get blown around by the flow. I’ll reserve the pump that came with the tank for another project. Final thoughts This scape turned out pretty great, and I’m really enjoying staring at it, even without livestock. I uploaded a YouTube short of the “sparkle” that happens in this aquarium that photos just can’t accurately capture. You can find that video here if you’re curious. *Magic Mud™️ is a product of my own design that I am still working on perfecting. Its main components are organic worm castings and natural red clay. The egg crate is simply there to keep everything in place and to avoid having the soil slide down to the edges of the aquarium, giving it a nice clean look all the way around without sacrificing a nutrient-dense base layer. Want to see more? Follow me @Nirvanaquatics on Instagram and Facebook!
  25. This is Gandr, a male bronze turmeric crayfish. Currently, he is coming close to 5” in length, excluding his antennae. Some of you may be familiar with him, as some of his rather interesting behavior would cause me constant worry. But, I’ve come to the conclusion after having him since this January, that it’s all just a part of who he is, his big personality. He enjoys thrashing around on his side for no apparent reason, staring at walls while swaying, throwing leaves over his molts and watching them for hours at a time, running backwards with my thermometer, looking at plants, trying to work over my siphon, tapping the front of his enclosure furiously when he wants attention, and getting what I call ‘glass pets’. He is terrified of carrots and will only eat foods prepared with bottled water; he dislikes food prepared with dechlorinated tap water. He arrived to me pretty traumatized from shipping. I kept him in a filtered and heated quarantine bin with gravel and leaf litter as a temporary setup. It wasn’t meant to last as long as it did, but he was extremely traumatized for almost a month, and I later had a lot of complications relating to my health conditions occur. His behavior of constant swaying, thrashing sideways as if he were molting, and refusing to eat for very long periods of time resulted in me trying to seek help from many people experienced in crayfish, as well as who I had gotten him from. The conclusion was that he must have some extremely rare or undocumented disease, and it was speculated that he would die very early. However, I’m doubtful that is the case. Together, we worked on confidence building and limiting his stress, and socializing him to things he’d see on a pretty regular basis. Socializing him has been a work in progress, but it’s definitely been helping. He understands that one finger means that food is being prepared for him, tapping lightly four times means I’m going to add food, a thumbs up means that I am finished with what I am doing in his setup (I particularly use this for when I am done closing the lid he previously had or when I’d have to adjust something), and that the orange bucket means I am going to do a water change (I’ve helped to encourage him to go under a particular leaf just before I water change, because he used to freeze in terror and panic anytime I would try, though now he likes to be out and mess with my siphon). He also understands that when I wave to him, it’s a common interaction and not to be interpreted as a threat. I would slowly implement waving over time to help him understand that hands aren’t always scary. He likes to sway his claw at me when I wave, and I’m not sure why, but I find it adorable because it looks like he’s waving back. He then will usually come up to the front, and I will pet the glass with my finger. He often stretches himself on the glass while I do this and moves his antennas up and down and wiggles them. To help his confidence, anytime he was scared of me in the beginning, I would act scared and back up. This would encourage him to step forward and snap out of his fright; it also seemingly helped him get the idea that his territory was his own, that any deemed threats would rather flee than bother him. After a lot of daily practice, he started eating regularly, being active and even social. He even will be in the front of his enclosure to interact with me every morning when I wake up, before he goes to sleep. Sometimes we will sleep at the same time, and he will sleep in the corner by me. So far, he is a little scared about any ceramic dish ware and forks (he doesn’t mind spoons though), but we’ll eventually work on this more. The only thing I have never made progress on his very intense fear of carrots, and I decided to not continue trying because carrots aren’t a necessity to him, and he would never see them any other time. He has always been extremely afraid of carrots since the beginning. Because I will eventually have to move to a new location, I didn’t want to get him a very large aquarium yet (I would love to make a large 75-90+ gallon aquarium into a paludarium for him in the future). I got the idea one night to break down and cut away various cardboard boxes and construct a setup for him, along with using a large but shallow food grade bin for the water portion. I was doubtful this would actually work, but I was curious that if I then applied foam, sealed it with silicone, layered more silicone and then substrate, if it would work well and repel water. Somehow, this actually worked after testing multiple times throughout the process. I started out by washing and cutting down an old yoga mat to size. I used a pen with easily removable ink to draw around parts of the bin that stick out into the inside of the bin. I then trimmed along the lines of where I marked with the pen. The yoga mat was spray painted black, and I originally tried a setup that I disliked and then deconstructed, so you’ll later see green patches because of spots that were removed. Why a yoga mat, you ask. Gandr has difficulty walking on slippery surfaces, and enjoys to dig. Any spots he digs away won’t be slippery. Next I built the area the bin would sit in out of cardboard and duck tape. I used an old light to figure out the size of box I would need to make around it. I left portions of the top open to assure the light would cool down enough, and so I could get to it easily if there were any issues. It can slide out easily though the sides as well. This wasn’t the full setup, as I later connected the bottom, and tweaked the top and some of the sides. After that, I began cutting away leftover foam boxes and worked on building up the portion of land he would later have, along with starting to spray foam the background. I added rocks throughout doing this, but changed some of the rocks, which you’ll see in later photos.
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