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About Me

  1. It's getting warmer. Time to fix up the backyard recirculating system. Last summer, for some dumb reason I moved the system into the sun and water temperatures hit a high of over 100°F. To make it worse, on the hottest day of the summer a raccoon, I'm guessing, ripped the wire out of the solar charger cutting off the pump and aerator and all my fish suffocated to death. All except one which I somehow found in a five gallon bucket next to the tank. How do these things happen? My main goal then is to move the system back into the shade. And while I'm at it, why not reconfigure the whole thing. Why? Because I can. Currently the system consists of a 300 gallon circular tank, a combo settling/upflow mechanical filtration tank, and a 100 gallon stock tank as a sump. On the to do list is (1) add the second 300 gallon tank I've had in the garage, (2) replace the 100 gal sump with a 55 gallon drum sump, (3) incorporate then100 gal stock tank some how, (4) possibly redo the filtration. Here's some schematics I made for the new system layout: Yes, I made this on Google Sheets. Yes, the Android version. Yes, with my six inch phone screen. Sure, it took way more time than if I used a real computer program. But I didn't want to wait that torturous three minutes for the laptop to boot up. The schematic shows each 300 gallon tank having it's own filter both of which drain into the same sump. The 100 gallon stock tank would be connected to the two main tanks with two overflow syphons. This will give the tank some water exchange everytime the solar pump slows down or speeds up. Filtration Here the combo settling/upflow filter design that I'm currently using: It works better than most other filters I've used. And I'm not just saying that because I invented it. I rock. Every few months the filter media, a few large scraps of shade cloth, should to be taken out and hosed off. I say should because I don't. Instead I'd like a design that can be back-flushed with a few valves (shown as red lines on the schematics) which will make the filter much easier to clean out. Option 1: Upflow Filter With this a heavier filter media like lava rock can be used which allows for a high pressure back-flush. The drawback here is if I don't back-flush the filter regularly, and I won't, then the holding tank will overflow. Overflow would be directed into the sump (not pictured) but there's a risk that surface dwelling organisms, like fish fry, could be swept into the sump in the process. Option 2: Downflow Filter or Again, a heavier filter media works here. With this design the inevitable neglect won't alter the flow path through the system like with the upflow design. Instead, water will just bypass the filter media before entering built in overflow and then the sump. The drawback is this kind of filter clogs faster. Also, the built in overflow and pipe that discharges water into the sump will both need to be capped during back-flush and that sounds like work. DIY Bead Filter? Here's something I haven't seen done before ...a DIY bead filter. But it's possible one of these could be made from basic plumbing parts. The major advantages of bead filters are their filtration power, contact design, and they double as a biofilter. The drawback is they require a pump to push water through. That means either unfiltered water will be go through the pump or another filter needs to be added before the pump and bead filter. Double Chamber Design This might be the best filtration method that exists today. I've seen these things filter out thick green water in a couple hours. The filter media is usually a bunch of air injected plastic beads. The beads are pushed against the top of the filter chamber by the pump's water pressure. To back-flush, the top chamber is drained and the flow of water is reverse through the bottom chamber where the beads are rinsed. It's easy ...too easy. Single Chamber Design The single chamber version work in a similar way to the double chamber but can use Kaldnes style filter media. This clogs less often and is much cheaper than air injected beads. Here's a schematic of a single chamber bead filter incorporated into a sump tank along with a few other unnecessarily elaborate features: This is the direction I'm leaning. If I did this, the two filters in the original layout schematic would become basic settlement tanks or be removed all together. What do you people think?
  2. I am curious what everyone uses for their fish tank that is not necessarily made for this hobby. Maybe it’s something from Amazon maybe you made your own specialty tool maybe it’s upcycled from the trash! Show me your favorite most used tool and tell me what it’s for! Mine is one of those forks they use in flower bouquets to hold the card. It’s great for poking around the tank or rolling my moss balls around when I don’t feel like sticking my hand in.
  3. My very first test run of a DIY wondershell. Not sure if it'll work, but I'll be testing it out in the next couple of days. I added spirulina for color and food for my snails and shrimp. Has anyone else tried this yet?
  4. I purchased this tank 19 days ago and it's finally "ready" for fish! The silicone finished curing last week and this week I finished testing for leaks. I don't trust the stand that it came with when I purchased it so I'm building one from scratch, which is my next part of this ongoing project. It came with some accessories when I purchased it but the only one worth mention is the 50 foot Python. It was moldy and needed a new T pump and switch but is in good condition now. Total spent for the tank and lid: Silicone - $10 Acetone - $8 Acrylic handle - $9 6" hinges - $10 (pack of 5, I only used 2) Total spent: $87 This number definitely goes up when you account for money spent repairing the Python ($11) and on the stand ($80 in so far, and I've only built the frame). This is mainly a therapy project for myself since this is my first fish tank in almost 5 years.
  5. Recently, I was told there is a national blackworm shortage. So naturally, I saw this as a great opportunity to exploit the locals for that cash money. ...er ...I mean as my moral duty to keep my local friends' fish healthy and fed. Yeah, that one. Time to figure out blackworm culture. Wild Collection A little research on blackworm habitats revealed they can be found in shallow water near the edges of marshes, swamps, and ponds with muddy sediment where they feed in decaying vegetation. Well ...there's a shallow, still creek with a mud bottom near my work. Not really a creek. More like a very long depression that stays filled with rainwater most of the year. I was hoping to find a private spot to collect because I don't like people coming around and asking me what I'm doing. NONE OF YOUR BUSINESS, OFFICER! Unfortunately, most of the creek is behind fenced private or state property except for one spot along the road where people like to dump their latest stolen car after stripping it for parts. That's what these spots are for after all. I hadn't pulled over to look before my first collection trip a couple weeks ago so I wasn't sure if there'd be much life but wow it's everywhere. Judging by the amount of invertebrates I saw swimming around freely, it's doubtful there are any fish there which makes the spot even more ideal for something like this. Now enjoy some pictures of the collection site: Shallow, mud bottom. Lots of decaying vegetarian but not enough to foul the water. Directly off the bank where the water level was higher a couple weeks ago. Grabbed a small wad of vegetation, found a blackworm first try. Separating from Debris I took a 5 gallon bucket full home and dumped it into a 5 gallon tank. To clear up the water I put in a little USB pump with a sponge over the intake. Last time a few blackworms burrowed through the sponge so I'm pumping the water into a breeder net to catch the new baby pieces. To collect the worms from the tank I made a plastic mesh cylinder filled with rocks. The first time I tried this most, if not all, of the blackworms climbed into the tower after 24 hours which made it easy to relocate them into a separate 10 gallon tank without the decaying veg that came with them. The tank sat for 3 or 4 days before this and was not aerated so they may have climbed the tower to reach the surface for oxygen or to escape the decaying plant matter. Or perhaps they were simply looking for a sweet bachelor condo where they can reproduce asexually and no one can hear them cry at night. It's hard to get the ladies when you're a worm. Culture Tank The blackworms are being kept in the same parameters of all my fish, 68-74°F, ~7.8 pH. Ramshorn snails, scuds, daphnia, cyclops, and newly hatched CPD fry (the container hanging in the front is a DIY fish egg hatchery) are being kept in the same bare bottom tank with a thin layer of detritus, an aquarium co-op coarse sponge filter, and a clamshell container filled with K1 biomedia. I made two more taller blackworm towers for the culture tank, one filled with lava rock and the other with pea gravel. The worms are showing a clear preference for the pea gravel so far which they populated a couple days after being put in the tank. I'm sure it's far less harsh on their soft, pathetic worm bodies. Soon I'll make a third with a mix of the two. I had the idea for the blackworm tower because most blackworm culture guides recommend keeping them in only a few inches of water of oxygen. Since the tank is a polyculture of multiple organisms and for water quality reasons I want the tank to be full to the top. If shallow water is necessary then these towers will give the blackworms a way to live closer to the surface. There seems to be an equal amount of worms living near the top and the bottom of the towers however. And for some reason a lot less around the middle. The towers will also provide for much more space to populate other than just the bottom of the tank, make population growth easier to monitor, and the gravel will help with fragmentation. I haven't tested this yet but I'm also hoping the towers can be removed and rinsed over a bucket for easy harvesting. (1)
  6. I have been trying to use HOB filters for 125–but would like to try a sump. Since the tank is already in use I don’t want to drill it. I have an extra 10 gallon and a 29 gallon tank to use. Would either size work? Also, I wonder if any of you could suggest a favorite design for intake and output tubes. There are YTube videos—but what have any of you used and would suggest? Thank you in advance for any suggestions!😊
  7. I normally don't order lots of root tabs. I should; I have tons of plants that can use them. But they are more buoyant than anything I've ever seen in a aquarium, and it's really difficult to get them deep under the root of my plants (even with forceps) so that they'll stay there before the tablet casing begins to degrade! It sometimes takes me several minutes to deposit one tablet, and it's a task I really don't look forward to. When folks on this forum a couple weeks ago mentioned a very expensive, unavailable-to-the-US mechanism made just for this purpose, I hit the internets. But there was no way I could have something like this shipped to the US for less than $60! So I started researching the DIY route, and after some trial and error and lots of research, I've come up with this one-handed solution. It can be made for less than $10 in parts from your local Home Depot. In fact, you can make two for about the same cost! It is sized for Aquarium Co-Op Easy Root Tabs. PARTS: So let's dive in. These are the parts I collected together (non-affiliate links) : 1. Straight PEX Pipe: 1/4" ID, 5' length: $1.76 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1-4-in-x-5-ft-White-PEX-Pipe-APPW514/301541226 2. Wood dowel: 3/16" diameter, 4' length: $0.70 https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-16-in-x-48-in-Wood-Round-Dowel-HDDH31648/204354369 3. Drawer pull: 1-1/14" birch cabinet knob: $0.98 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Rowland-1-1-4-in-32-mm-Birch-Wood-Round-Cabinet-Knob-P10512H-BIR-C/204143998 4. Drawer pull: 1-13/16" birch cabinet knob: $1.88 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Classic-1-13-16-in-46-mm-Unfinished-Birch-Wood-Round-Cabinet-Knob-P10515C-BIR-C5/100156480 5. Springs: 6-pack zinc-plated compression springs (used the 3/8" x 1-1/8" x 0.041" spring): $4.22 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Zinc-Plated-Compression-Spring-6-Pack-16087/202045468 TOTAL: $9.54 TOOLS: 1. Drill and assorted bits 2. Wood glue (or white glue) 3. 5-minute epoxy PREP: The 1/4" PEX pipe does not fit the Easy Root tabs. I made it fit by enlarging the first inch or so of one end of the pipe using a 5/16" drill bit. Now, the smaller end of the Easy Root Tab fits very snugly. If I don't push it in too far, it's a perfect grip! Next, I cut a 12" length of the PEX pipe and a 13" length of the dowel. I don't have very deep tanks, so this is fine for me. But this can be cut to any length you need; just make sure the dowel is always one inch longer than the tube. The wooden knobs already have holes drilled in them, which made it very easy to enlarge them to exactly the diameters I needed. For the smaller knob, I enlarged the hole to 3/16", making sure not to drill all the way through. I glued in my wood dowel with a drop of wood glue to hold it permanently: For the larger knob, I enlarged the hole to 3/8" diameter, this time going all the way through. I made sure to start with a 3/16" bit, and repeatedly went larger and larger until I reached 3/8". This ensured my hole stayed centered and I had a nice clean cut all the way through. I glued in the length of PEX pipe with 5-minute epoxy. This should hold well enough for my purposes. I'm using the shorter, wider spring for this project (3/8" x 1-1/8" x 0.41"). For good measure, I used some 5-minute epoxy to glue the spring to my plunger. This is totally optional, but gives me one less piece I can lose. That's pretty much all there is to do. I just inserted the plunger in the tube and I'm ready to try it out! I placed an Easy Root Tab in the end, just far enough for it to grip, but not so far that it won't push out easily. I inserted the tool with one hand into the tank, pushed the plunger, and voila! A deposited tablet in 5 seconds! But I am over the moon about how this tool turned out. I just placed about 20 tabs in two minutes. Even with coarse gravel, forcing the pill in was no problem. The two pieces come apart for drying, as that wood dowel won't last forever. Now I understand why the professional ones are so expensive. This makes things so much easier. I'm definitely making a longer one for deeper tanks. Hope you find this useful. Thanks for reading! Bill
  8. Hey everyone! I'm going to start injecting co2 into my 10- gallon planted betta tank. After spending the last few days pricing things out, I decided to DIY my own co2 regulator. Maybe in the end it won't save me money, but it will be fun to learn something new. I'm going to post updates, the build, questions, links to information, and how well it works here. There's actually some really informative threads on planted tank and saltwater forums. I need to read through them and get a parts list. Plus, at the end of the day, I'm sure I'll need input and some advice from someone who's actually done this. Yesterday, I spent part of the day scouring eBay for regulators. I looked at listings for Mathesen, Smith, and Victor regulators. There's a lot of listings for older models right now. @Mmiller2001 recommended finding a 2 stage regular. For $50 I found a Uniweld 2 stage RHT 8013 co2 regulator. The listing said open box, never used. The box looks like it was mauled by a bear but the regulator looked new. I ordered that. Next on my list is a soleniod, needle valve, and bubble counter. Back to eBay. Here's the manufacturer link in case anyone is curious. https://uniweld.com/product/rht80-series/
  9. Hi! Don't know where else to post this journal, seeing as it's a DIY build for animals, but for reptiles instead. I'm not gonna go into too much backstory, but I decided to document my progress on building a snake enclosure rack to store my two 120 (4 x 2 x 2) gallon and one 180 (4 x 3 x 2) gallon snake terrariums! These next posts are catch-up from about a month or two ago: Late-November to Early December(?) First one is of my newest tank, my 180 gal, for my Japanese Rat Snake! Sadly one of the glass panels that was shipped was broken on arrival, but I got a new one from the company! The fully assembled 180 gallon, it's huge! (peep the Legos, I'm a nerd) Had to rig up my own light fixtures for it, but it's not my first rodeo. I made a TikTok on how to make a light fixture if anyone is curious as to how to make their own. Takes about 15 minutes to make! I bought a T5 fixture off of Amazon that's the exact same used for reptile enclosures for about $35 (for two!)
  10. It seems too often that I have failed ideas. Things that are sometimes interesting and maybe worth learning from but aren't worth a new thread. I am making this thread as a singular place to share them, for me, and for anyone else who wants to share any failed ideas too. To start it off, I'm not a huge fan of picking eggs off of yarn spawning mops and I made an attempt at designing a 3d printed modular chain for my rice fish to lay eggs on. My test was not successful. Back to yarn for now.
  11. The original post is from 6/29/21 on another site. I'm reposting is as I cannot link to another site. This is my DIY in photos of the aluminum stand that was built by my built by my Dad, elder brother, and me for my Marineland 220 Xhigh aquarium. Part 1 - It's made of 2" square aluminum that it cost about $250. The dimensions are 72.5" x 24" x 24". I drew up the plans with my father's assistance. I did all the prep work. My brother did all the welding. I then ground down all the welds. Then prepared the frame for paint with 0000 steel wool and acetone. I then applied 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of semi-gloss black.
  12. I'm copying my text from the original post on another forum since I'm not allowed to post the link. The original post was from 5/30/20. Enjoy! I'm going to take a crack at building my own sump for my 125 mostly South American 125 gallon aquarium. I have been using the one in the photo for 3 years now and it's okay but it was originally designed for saltwater and I'm hoping I can do better. The planned dimensions are 48" x 15" x 15", approximately 46 gallons. I'm building it out of 1/4" polycarbonate and sealing it with the Weldon 16. I am basing it on the attached photo I found online. I'm looking for constructive criticism and help only. It's planned for the water from the tank to pour into the socks on the left, flow into 2 or 3 Cer-Media bio filter blocks, then spill over and down thru the vertical section but with 3 levels instead of 2. Cotton batting at the top, volcanic rock, and/or bio-balls. I was thinking of adding another vertical section of 3 levels with more filtration and purigen as the top level. Next it will flow over into the heater section and finally the return pump on the far right. One of my thoughts is, if I add another vertical section that would flow up then to the heaters, should the water flow under the divider to the pump or still go over spill into the pump section? **I removed the logos from the sump diagram as it's just used as a reference. ** Skip to 7/20/20 for the next installment. Well, it took 6 weeks for me to get the correct polycarbonate. I had to reorder since I ordered the incorrect width. Anyway, it took about 13 hours from start to finish. We started with three sheets for 32" x 48" x 1/4" clear polycarbonate. We cut it with a table saw and hand sanded all the edges with multiple grits of fine sandpaper. I'm going to give it 24 hours to set up then it will sit with water in it for a week to check for leaks. I'll also be putting a pump in it to see how it will flow. From 7/21/20 - I let the Weldon 4 and 16 cure for 24 hours then added water. I've got a few leaks but nothing too bad. I dried it out and will seal it again after the joints have a chance to dry out. Then on 7/27/20 - After fixing the leaks, I let it sit in my garage for the entire week with an 800 gph pump circulating water for a week. Friday night I finally installed it. The entire process took about 4 hours. I also replaced all the tubing. Here is a photo of it up and running. I am currently using two 200 micron socks but I think they're too fine. They clog up quickly and restrict water flow. I may switch to 300 micron and see how that does.
  13. From 9/27/21 - This is the build of the canopy for my Marineland 220 gallon aquarium in photos. The entire unit was constructed out of white pine. I looked an tons of photos online for inspiration. I originally wanted the two front sections of burned wood to open like the doors below AND have the entire front tilt up but, my father the engineer said that was a tall order. he could do it but it would weigh a ton and be super complicated. So, we simplified my idea down to having the entire front tilt and just mimic the front doors below. Please check my other post on building the aluminum stand for this tank.
  14. I am looking for recommendations for heavy duty steel racks for 20 gallon aquariums for my fish room. looking for it to hold 4-5 tanks on each rack. Thanks!
  15. Does any one use Cermaic pepper grinder for dispersing fish food to acquarium. i have a difficult time remembering all fish foods which i need to give for acquarium. so thought of buying a cermaic pepper grinder put all flakes and dried wood grind them and spray on top. i saw in few videos in youtube not sure whether its ok or not any experience
  16. My aquarium stand isn't ideal at all, and I'd love to cover the front up with something pretty, or build something onto it like doors. Wishful thinking but also a shelf inside if it's possible. It's metal, so how would it work to use hinges for doors? What kind of creative setups do you have? I'd have loved an enclosed stand but this was a gift and I didn't think it through before setting things up. Show me your stand set ups, and throw me some ideas!
  17. Twin Wall 8mm Polycarbonate Sheet, Clear, Strong Impact and Shatterproof, All-Weather Outdoor Greenhouse Covering Thank you!
  18. Does any know if this is safe? I bought it, thinking it was Krylon Fusion for Plastic, which has been discontinued. Thanks for the help, really appreciate it. Andrew
  19. Just a reversed-bottle-style fish catcher, sized down for multi fry... Hi all: Catching shell dweller fry can be a real challenge, unless a tank is set up with separating them in mind. But if you're like me, and you have a nicely planted and decorated tank with happy multies who are breeding like guppies, and just need to get them out to prevent massive overcrowding, it's pretty much impossible to catch the little buggers without decimating the tank. They don't run into their shells, they hide low to the ground, under the shells, behind plant roots, etc. And they can be pretty fast. So I wasn't sure an adaptation of the simple bottle fish catcher would work if scaled down...but it does! This was my process: First, I sourced the right size bottle. It needed to have an opening that was small enough to keep out most adult fish, and also not be too large for smaller tanks. I settled on this 8 oz squeeze water bottle from Crystal Geyser: After pulling off the pull-top cap, I removed the screw-top lid. It conveniently has a divider to filter for really small fry, if you want. I didn't need it that small, so I clipped it out with a small pair of snips: I then cut the top off with my bandsaw, although a pair of scissors would have been just fine: The top part needs a small slit cut in it, so that when it is reversed and jammed back into the bottle, the edges will overlap slightly and it won't buckle. The slit is about 1/4" long: Then, in order to promote good circulation, I punched small holes all over. Although you can melt some with a red-hot nail (heated over a candle), a narrow tip on a soldering iron or wood burner works much better. 🙂 The top jams tightly into the bottle. No sealing is necessary, making it easy to separate later. I added some micro-pellets as bait, and placed it in my tank. After 8 hours, I pulled the bottle out; it had caught 16 fry! Big success on the first day! Subsequent days I only caught 3 at a time, but I'll get them all eventually. Placement really matters. I ended up making two more traps, so I can catch them faster. Fun, quick project, useful for the breeder's toolbox! Enjoy! Bill
  20. This is Gandr, a male bronze turmeric crayfish. Currently, he is coming close to 5” in length, excluding his antennae. Some of you may be familiar with him, as some of his rather interesting behavior would cause me constant worry. But, I’ve come to the conclusion after having him since this January, that it’s all just a part of who he is, his big personality. He enjoys thrashing around on his side for no apparent reason, staring at walls while swaying, throwing leaves over his molts and watching them for hours at a time, running backwards with my thermometer, looking at plants, trying to work over my siphon, tapping the front of his enclosure furiously when he wants attention, and getting what I call ‘glass pets’. He is terrified of carrots and will only eat foods prepared with bottled water; he dislikes food prepared with dechlorinated tap water. He arrived to me pretty traumatized from shipping. I kept him in a filtered and heated quarantine bin with gravel and leaf litter as a temporary setup. It wasn’t meant to last as long as it did, but he was extremely traumatized for almost a month, and I later had a lot of complications relating to my health conditions occur. His behavior of constant swaying, thrashing sideways as if he were molting, and refusing to eat for very long periods of time resulted in me trying to seek help from many people experienced in crayfish, as well as who I had gotten him from. The conclusion was that he must have some extremely rare or undocumented disease, and it was speculated that he would die very early. However, I’m doubtful that is the case. Together, we worked on confidence building and limiting his stress, and socializing him to things he’d see on a pretty regular basis. Socializing him has been a work in progress, but it’s definitely been helping. He understands that one finger means that food is being prepared for him, tapping lightly four times means I’m going to add food, a thumbs up means that I am finished with what I am doing in his setup (I particularly use this for when I am done closing the lid he previously had or when I’d have to adjust something), and that the orange bucket means I am going to do a water change (I’ve helped to encourage him to go under a particular leaf just before I water change, because he used to freeze in terror and panic anytime I would try, though now he likes to be out and mess with my siphon). He also understands that when I wave to him, it’s a common interaction and not to be interpreted as a threat. I would slowly implement waving over time to help him understand that hands aren’t always scary. He likes to sway his claw at me when I wave, and I’m not sure why, but I find it adorable because it looks like he’s waving back. He then will usually come up to the front, and I will pet the glass with my finger. He often stretches himself on the glass while I do this and moves his antennas up and down and wiggles them. To help his confidence, anytime he was scared of me in the beginning, I would act scared and back up. This would encourage him to step forward and snap out of his fright; it also seemingly helped him get the idea that his territory was his own, that any deemed threats would rather flee than bother him. After a lot of daily practice, he started eating regularly, being active and even social. He even will be in the front of his enclosure to interact with me every morning when I wake up, before he goes to sleep. Sometimes we will sleep at the same time, and he will sleep in the corner by me. So far, he is a little scared about any ceramic dish ware and forks (he doesn’t mind spoons though), but we’ll eventually work on this more. The only thing I have never made progress on his very intense fear of carrots, and I decided to not continue trying because carrots aren’t a necessity to him, and he would never see them any other time. He has always been extremely afraid of carrots since the beginning. Because I will eventually have to move to a new location, I didn’t want to get him a very large aquarium yet (I would love to make a large 75-90+ gallon aquarium into a paludarium for him in the future). I got the idea one night to break down and cut away various cardboard boxes and construct a setup for him, along with using a large but shallow food grade bin for the water portion. I was doubtful this would actually work, but I was curious that if I then applied foam, sealed it with silicone, layered more silicone and then substrate, if it would work well and repel water. Somehow, this actually worked after testing multiple times throughout the process. I started out by washing and cutting down an old yoga mat to size. I used a pen with easily removable ink to draw around parts of the bin that stick out into the inside of the bin. I then trimmed along the lines of where I marked with the pen. The yoga mat was spray painted black, and I originally tried a setup that I disliked and then deconstructed, so you’ll later see green patches because of spots that were removed. Why a yoga mat, you ask. Gandr has difficulty walking on slippery surfaces, and enjoys to dig. Any spots he digs away won’t be slippery. Next I built the area the bin would sit in out of cardboard and duck tape. I used an old light to figure out the size of box I would need to make around it. I left portions of the top open to assure the light would cool down enough, and so I could get to it easily if there were any issues. It can slide out easily though the sides as well. This wasn’t the full setup, as I later connected the bottom, and tweaked the top and some of the sides. After that, I began cutting away leftover foam boxes and worked on building up the portion of land he would later have, along with starting to spray foam the background. I added rocks throughout doing this, but changed some of the rocks, which you’ll see in later photos.
  21. So I was wondering if anyone has taken small bio balls or bio rings and put them in the sponge filter uplift tube? Thinking if it doesn't slow down flow to much it would be similar to the twin sponge filters that have container for the bio media just thinking of ways to improve what we already have not reinventing the wheel
  22. I posted this question before and got a lot of helpful advice, which I really appreciated. However, I didn’t get a specific answer. I thought maybe someone might know so I’m giving it another shot. I apologize for the redundancy. I made a shrimp cave out of a terracotta pot. I’m really happy with it. I’m hoping it will provide a good place for Bloody Mary shrimp to reproduce. The tank has amano shrimp, green neon tetras, and a scarlet basis also. What is the smallest diameter hole that will allow the Bloody Mary shrimp inside while also preventing the amanos and fish from entering? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks 😊
  23. hi! i recently got a 30 gallon tank. While i was leak testing it, i noticed a leak, so i am now going to drain remove the current outer layer of silicone and re seal it from the inside. i did noticed the cause of the leak was a big bubble in the seam. can this cause issues in the future or will re sealing it with a thick layer of silicone.
  24. Can I make my own driftwood from oak branches that I found on our land? I cleaned them up and am going to boil them, then sand any sharp or rough edges. Will this work or am I asking for problems when I set my tank up? Thanks for your help!
  25. Show me a picture of your alternative tank stand, or DIY tank stand? Is there anything you can do to convert a solid wood piece of furniture (like a hutch bottom, or an old vintage dresser) into a good tank stand for a larger (90gal, 120 gal) tank, or don't even attempt?
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