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About Me

  1. Thought I'd share my DIY light for my 5g tank. I wanted to see my rice fish from above so I ditched the lid and made this light instead. Its growing flame moss and floaters quite well. I took a couple feet of this [1] (probably <2$ worth) left over from a project and slid a generic ebay "COB" style daytime running light for cars (~$2.50) into the housing. It came out really well. I think the light level is just right for what I've got here. If you turn the voltage up past 12 V (a running car would be close to 14) it gets VERY bring VERY fast too. If the specs are to be trusted its about 350 lumins (Directed straight down) and 7000k color temperature. [1]:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M09PBYX Here's a photo of the light module.
  2. Hello again everyone, i haven’t been on much since I’ve joined, life is interesting right now. I am in the process of trying to modify my 40g breeder set up so that it is easier for maintenance. briefly, the story goes like this. About 7 years ago i fell on my shoulder and after going to dozens of doctors since then I’ve only recently been diagnosed with, basically a pinched nerve that has to be surgically resolved. Who knows when that will happen. The symptoms include not being able to reliably hold my arm up parallel to my shoulder without losing all feeling in the pinky and ring finger. Its a degenerative issue, so i hadn’t noticed how difficult it was for me to deal with until i weekly began needing to remove the glass lid from our 40g tank in order to gravel vac, and cutting my hand several times when my fingers went numb and i couldn’t maintain a grip. I also can’t see inside the tank to clean it with the lights off. first I was going to try to make those pendulum lights like the kingofdiy’s but he doesn’t really tell you anything about the bulb that goes in the lights. Or actually what products he uses at all. I bought These e26 light cords so that i could hang them over the tank, thinking i could just adjust their height when i needed to move them out of the way and i wouldn’t have to reach up too much to do it. The light bulbs i got don’t seem to penetrate the water column at all, despite being 100w (or the led equivalent of 100w incandescent). I have all low light plants and don’t want to spend $40 for a plant light bulb, that seems ridiculous honestly. The other modification is to get a lighter lid. I was going to make a polycarbonate lid, in 2 parts, so it is easier for me to lift for feeding and such but it has not been available in my area for a while. There are the clear polycarbonate sheets that are more like glass but they are only .08 inches thick and that seems too thin. At least its not the kind cory used in his video about diy lids. We want to purchase clown killifish in the future so the lid is important, otherwise i’d just leave the lid off and get a python hook to top off the tank every few days. Plus it would allow me to put my hang on back filter on the side instead of the back of the tank and it would be way easier for me to get to it to clean. It wouldn’t look at good but, beggers can’t be choosers lol. Does anyone have experience with this stuff? i really appreciate everyone’s help once again, i want to make maintenance as easy as i can so we can keep the aquariums because they truely give us joy.
  3. Getting into my 40 breeder with the hinged glass lid is a bother, move the front light, open the lid and either flop it all the way open and hope it doesn't hurt the lights by resting on them or hold it open by hand and feed or whatever one handed. So I made this prop. I just eyeballed the angle of the cut and the overall length to get it to hold open and hold onto the glass. I had to widen the cutout more than the thickness of the lid to get everything to work and the length needed a little fine tuning to not flop back closed or miss the back of the lid. It's held together with superglue gel 'cause it was handy.
  4. Recently I decided to put together a high tech aquarium. The aforementioned aquarium is a a 61 liter (H-40, L-45, W-34 cm), a good sized tank for light penetration. The equipment I use is as follows: Ehiem liberty 75 hang on back filter Chihiros A451 Plus LED light Future heater will be the 50 watt Dennerle heater (summer is hot here so my room is cooled to 24C with AC) DIY Sodastream CO2 system I decided to use Dennerle's Scaper's soil as a substrate, ended up using about 7 liters of the stuff, and dragon stone as the hardscape. This is the only image I have right after adding the soil and hardscape, please excuse the terrible quality. This image is 24 hours after setting up the tank. In this image I am using the Dennerle bio co2 system temporarily until I put together the Sodastream CO2. The plant selection at the time of taking this image is as follows: Anubias nana Cryptocoryne nurii "rosen maiden" Cryptocoryne wendtii "brown" Cryptocoryne scurrilis Cryptocoryne balansae Eriocaulon vietnam Hygrophila pinnatifida Bucephalandra sp. After all the parts for my CO2 system arrived I was finally able to put it together. This system consists of a 400g CO2 Sodastream cylinder, a TR21-4 to W21.8-14 adapter, and a CO2 regulator with a solenoid. Long term a large CO2 cylinder is better cost wise, but I decided to go with this system because I'm limited for space. The picture on the left is of the system in general, and on the right a picture of the adapter. This is the aquarium now, I've moved around some of the plants and swapped some out for others. The current plant list is as follows (would love if someone can identify the plants I'm unsure of): Cryptocoryne nurii "rosen maiden" Cryptocoryne wendtii "brown" Cryptocoryne scurrilis Cryptocoryne balansae Hygrophila pinnatifida Bucephalandra sp. (Dark green and reddish new leaves, it's the big one in the back) -unsure Bucephalandra sp.green (located on a rock just to the right of the filter intake) -unsure Bacopa colorata Alternanthera reineckii "mini" Blyxa japonica Nymphaea zenkeri (red tiger lotus) Ludwigia repens "rubin" Micranthemum Micranthemoides (pear weed) I hope to soon add Cryptocoryne wendtii flamingo and Pogostemon helferi. These are pretty rare in my country so they're a bit pricey and hard to track down. I'll update on the progression and stocking of this aquarium in the future. Constructive criticism and advise is welcome. Hope everyone has a fantastic day and thanks for reading!
  5. Absolutely love fluval flexes, but their pumps are kind of powerful for such a small tank. My betta and neons get blown away all around and struggle to remain calm, plus the food gets all scattered and sometimes end up outside the fish's range of vision. This is a quick DIY, cheap flow reducing method I managed to come up with. You can do it too with things you, being a fish keeper, most likely have lying around. Just 2 pieces of sponge and some zip ties. You just have bend around the sponge peices around the nozzles and zip tie them in place, then cut excess tie. Can even "control" the flow by slightly sliding around the pieces of sponge! Hope you find this useful.
  6. Hey all, My name is Dakota, and ive been in the hobby for approximately 5 years. I have tried different things and failed at different things, and have had great success with different things. Im a stay at home dad and absolutely love it. I love the aquarium hobby and love everything about it. But my true passion in the hobby is aquascapes and having it complement beautiful fish. My favourite fish has always been the German Blue Rams and absolutely fell in love with the behavior and the amazing colorations they have. This journal is gonna be my diary (lol) i guess you could say. I really appreciate input and can handle criticism. Im no expert, But i am trying and i am learning as much as i can and have learned that the best way for me to learn is to do. So here it goes.... This is my tank from a week ago... I have monty carlo growing on the bottom with Scarlett temple in the back right and an anubias behind the drift wood. There is my wife's Pothos plant on the top right. The tank is running an FX4 with a reduced flow rate. DIY CO2 Inector and a fluval heater. Will post additional Pic's. and then ive hung a blanched zucchini wedge for my oto's to the left. Second picture is my tank today.Went to my LFS and ordered my GBR's aswell as traded the Black neons, assassin snails and a couple of sterbai cory's. All i have left is the 25-30 neons, 3 cory's and some otocinclus cats. I have added some Anachris to the left and some Java fern on the wood. Everything is starting to come together. When i went to the fish store he sells the anachris in clumps, so i got a couple. But i got a hitch hiker and don't know what it is. Looks to big to be duckweed. Any Answers? Top View of Mystery Plant. My DIY setup which has served me well so far! Now Schedule! Please Excuse the handwriting. This is my maintenance schedule. It still needs some tweaking but i will work it out. EG= Easy Green EC=Easy Carbon WC= Water Change. Then of cource my Aquarium Coop sticker on the front right! Love you guys! So, This is just gonna be me keeping track of myself aswell as showing my tank off. I don't get a lot of guests at my house so, this is me being a good host as i welcome you guys into my home and passion.
  7. I recently purchased a pepper mill to see if it could grind down food for small fish or fry. It worked great. I have been using nano and both 1.5 xtremes along with several other foods. I bought sera discus granules by the pound and made a video showing the pepper mill in use. Can come in handy if you like to buy food in larger quantities and want more options for what size it can be fed to.
  8. Hey all, So I'm a total nerd and went down a 2 day rabbit hole when I decided to do DIY lights for my 60 Hex project. My big thing is that I had no idea how bright "low", "medium" or "high" light actually was. When I looked it up, I always found vague lumens/gallon or just PAR values. Because I don't want to spend the money on anything that gives a PAR values, I had to figure them out. Most common white LEDs are phosphor-converted type LEDs and they all have a similar spectrum assuming the color temp is the same. This is why this can be done without knowing the specific spectrum of the LEDs you are using. The equation is as follows: PPDF=Fa(lumens/(H(Tan[Φ/2])) (PPFD is what we think of as PAR) Lux*Fa=PPFD Fa-factor from reference link Lux=lumens/area Area= Pi(B/2)^2 B=2H(tan(Φ)) H-Hight of light from substrate. Φ- angle of LED reflector (total angle from side to side) Phosphor LED factors based on color temp; Less than ~ 3000K = 0.017 Between ~ 3000K to 4000K = 0.015 Greater than ~ 4000K = 0.014 Because this is an estimate, I plan to also estimate the angle of the LED reflector, thought down lights will sometimes give them. A source of error in this method is that it assumes 100% of the photons emitted from the LED will hit within the designated area (This also assumes the reflector will absorb no light), Therefore this estimate will likely be on the high side. The equation is best used for a single light, however, if you have a few that are close together it could still be an alright estimate given that the distance between the lights is relatively small compared to the area they are shinning on (most LEDs use this idea). If they are far apart, you can add the values where they overlap (like a Venn diagram). This equation could be changed to estimate a light bar by using B to find Area with a different equation. I'm tired now but will show this if anyone has interest Hope this helps someone save a few bucks! Who says you'll never use trig after high school?
  9. I normally don't order lots of root tabs. I should; I have tons of plants that can use them. But they are more buoyant than anything I've ever seen in a aquarium, and it's really difficult to get them deep under the root of my plants (even with forceps) so that they'll stay there before the tablet casing begins to degrade! It sometimes takes me several minutes to deposit one tablet, and it's a task I really don't look forward to. When folks on this forum a couple weeks ago mentioned a very expensive, unavailable-to-the-US mechanism made just for this purpose, I hit the internets. But there was no way I could have something like this shipped to the US for less than $60! So I started researching the DIY route, and after some trial and error and lots of research, I've come up with this one-handed solution. It can be made for less than $10 in parts from your local Home Depot. In fact, you can make two for about the same cost! It is sized for Aquarium Co-Op Easy Root Tabs. PARTS: So let's dive in. These are the parts I collected together (non-affiliate links) : 1. Straight PEX Pipe: 1/4" ID, 5' length: $1.76 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1-4-in-x-5-ft-White-PEX-Pipe-APPW514/301541226 2. Wood dowel: 3/16" diameter, 4' length: $0.70 https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-16-in-x-48-in-Wood-Round-Dowel-HDDH31648/204354369 3. Drawer pull: 1-1/14" birch cabinet knob: $0.98 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Rowland-1-1-4-in-32-mm-Birch-Wood-Round-Cabinet-Knob-P10512H-BIR-C/204143998 4. Drawer pull: 1-13/16" birch cabinet knob: $1.88 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Classic-1-13-16-in-46-mm-Unfinished-Birch-Wood-Round-Cabinet-Knob-P10515C-BIR-C5/100156480 5. Springs: 6-pack zinc-plated compression springs (used the 3/8" x 1-1/8" x 0.041" spring): $4.22 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Zinc-Plated-Compression-Spring-6-Pack-16087/202045468 TOTAL: $9.54 TOOLS: 1. Drill and assorted bits 2. Wood glue (or white glue) 3. 5-minute epoxy PREP: The 1/4" PEX pipe does not fit the Easy Root tabs. I made it fit by enlarging the first inch or so of one end of the pipe using a 5/16" drill bit. Now, the smaller end of the Easy Root Tab fits very snugly. If I don't push it in too far, it's a perfect grip! Next, I cut a 12" length of the PEX pipe and a 13" length of the dowel. I don't have very deep tanks, so this is fine for me. But this can be cut to any length you need; just make sure the dowel is always one inch longer than the tube. The wooden knobs already have holes drilled in them, which made it very easy to enlarge them to exactly the diameters I needed. For the smaller knob, I enlarged the hole to 3/16", making sure not to drill all the way through. I glued in my wood dowel with a drop of wood glue to hold it permanently: For the larger knob, I enlarged the hole to 3/8" diameter, this time going all the way through. I made sure to start with a 3/16" bit, and repeatedly went larger and larger until I reached 3/8". This ensured my hole stayed centered and I had a nice clean cut all the way through. I glued in the length of PEX pipe with 5-minute epoxy. This should hold well enough for my purposes. I'm using the shorter, wider spring for this project (3/8" x 1-1/8" x 0.41"). For good measure, I used some 5-minute epoxy to glue the spring to my plunger. This is totally optional, but gives me one less piece I can lose. That's pretty much all there is to do. I just inserted the plunger in the tube and I'm ready to try it out! I placed an Easy Root Tab in the end, just far enough for it to grip, but not so far that it won't push out easily. I inserted the tool with one hand into the tank, pushed the plunger, and voila! A deposited tablet in 5 seconds! But I am over the moon about how this tool turned out. I just placed about 20 tabs in two minutes. Even with coarse gravel, forcing the pill in was no problem. The two pieces come apart for drying, as that wood dowel won't last forever. Now I understand why the professional ones are so expensive. This makes things so much easier. I'm definitely making a longer one for deeper tanks. Hope you find this useful. Thanks for reading! Bill
  10. If you want to breed fish, eventually you’ll want to hatch live baby brine shrimp (BBS). I love all of the fancy Brine Shrimp hatcheries for sale nowadays. If you’ve got one, that’s awesome! I want to just share how I do it. It’s not too expensive if you’ve got a few extra items hanging around. (1) I buy 2x 1-liter Polar Springs Seltzer water bottles. (2) After emptying out the bottles, I peel off the labels. They’re pretty glued on, so it’s usually a mess. I use a steak knife. (3) I cut off the bottom just above the ridge that runs around it. The bottom will become my top and the bottle will become my cone. (4) I take the other bottle and cut off the top just below where it bends inward. I discard the top. The bottom will be my sleeve. (5) I hand-drill 2x holes into what will be the top piece / lid. 1/4 in drill bit is about right. Airline will go through here. (6) To assemble, screw the cap onto the cone piece that is inverted into the sleeve. Push that into the bottom of the sleeve. Put the cap piece with the holes in on top. (7) To test the setup, run an airline from a pump (here I’m using an extra Co-Op USB nano air pump) through the lid to an airstone and test with water in the hatchery. (8) Now to proportion salt & BBS eggs, I use 3x rounded TSP (5 ml each) of API Aquarium Salt. And stir this into ca. 10 oz of HOT tap water until dissolved. I pour this into the hatchery and then I use COLD tap water for the remainder up to about 1-inch clearance from top. Then I add 2x rounded 1/2-TSP (2.5 ml each) — or just 1x TSP (5 ml) — of Co-Op BBS eggs. This I gently stir into the salt water, though the eggs will float eventually no matter what. (9) Then, with paper towel set underneath to catch salt drips, I set it up inside my tank stand. The air in the hatchery water should make it look like it’s “boiling.” In 36 hrs, I’ll have a nice hatch.
  11. I just got a computer that is able to run CAD. this is one of my first projects, I'm pretty happy with how they came out. I uploaded the file to thingiverse if any one else wants to print them. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4821731
  12. OK I got the base cabinet setup and got the tank resealed and put back on top of the stand. Where it sits there is a slight lean to the left resulting in water level differences. I want this to be a bit more level but as this stand is made from 3/4 birch plywood it doesn't have the normal 4 corners of to simply put something underneath. What method would you guys recommend to get the low side up the 1/8th it needs please. Its doing a leak test now to make sure it all sealed. I am going to drain it tomorrow and try and get something underneath it.
  13. I am setting up a nano shrimp tank and have a mix of 10mm and 13mm filter components. I was all set to get some brass 1/2" to 3/8" PEX adapters when the copper issue crossed my mind. The brass fittings might be fine, but for how long? I'd also be concerned unless it has been categorically proven that quality brass fittings like those used for plumbing will be find for shrimp and other copper sensitive species. I then started looking for good plastic (aquarium safe) barb fittings that go from 1/2" to 3/8". Nope, I can't find anything good. Just cheap junk on Amazon. Is it a fools errand to try this? Either because the parts don't exist or its is a bad idea to use 13mm inflow/outflow with a 10mm filter fitting. I'm using a ZooMed Nano 10 with 13mm LIly Pipe and a 13mm inline CO2 diffuser.
  14. Hello looking at houses to buy this week was wondering how you determined how much weight your floors can hold, also do,s and donts for inside ponds in basement or even in rooms I know a dehumidifier will be necessary etc thanks in advance
  15. Hello, I planned on making my 5.5g tank a planted one, so I wanted to experiment with DIY CO2 as a way to save money. I followed the instructions of this article here: https://www.buildyouraquarium.com/diy-co2-reactor/ .... Despite following these directions, there are no bubbles whatsoever appearing from the diffuser, and after 12 hours the CO2 indicator shows no change and sits at blue. Since my tank is smaller, I went with a single bottle with a size of 15.2 fl oz and so halved the ingredients (sugar, yeast, baking soda) when preparing the mixture. I think this part might be okay-- I can see that the bottle has been reacting for about 12 hours now, bubbles are fizzing up towards the top of the bottle. I think something might be wrong with the physical mechanics of how the bottle was set up. Initially I had been fiddling around with the tubing and inadvertently pushed several inches of it into the bottle without realizing it, straight into the liquid mixture, so I think that might've made it to where the gas wasn't entering the line properly. Liquid also entered the tubing, and is scattered around different parts of it as well as a bit in the check valve and diffuser. I poured about 1/5 of the liquid in the bottle out and pulled the tubing further back out (the silicone for the lid was still wet, and I re-applied more afterwards) so that gas could rise to the top of the bottle and go cleanly into the tubing. I also wonder if the placement of my check valve is incorrect. In the article, it states to insert the check valve to where the arrow is pointed in the direction of CO2 flow (from bottle to tank) but the check valves I have do not show an arrow. The picture supplied in the article makes it look like at the tip of the arrow is also the tip of the the piece inside the check valve, so that's what I used to base the check valve insertion off of, but now I wonder if this might be wrong, too... Does anyone know what might've possibly gone wrong with how I did my CO2 system? Please let me know, I'm eager to get plants in my tank! 😭
  16. This hobby has encouraged a DIY imagination for me, but I've never really had to do anything with my one and only tank, other than a modest mod on my HOB. But today, while I'm in the midst of rebuilding that one tank, I found myself making my own box filter to help me get out the cloudiness produced by my substrate. I used one of the soup containers from Chinese take out (although I think this was Vietnamese take out). Used a blade and cut a hole on the lid. Then used a drill to drill holes around the lid, and then around the top of the container. Then stuck in the aquarium co-op sponge filter inner components. It was a prefect fit. Anymore perfect, the weighted portion would also fit, but it doesn't. Judging by the color of the polyfill, I'd say it's working well alongside my HOB (also stuffed with polyfill). Although I messed up and accidentally squeezed the polyfill in the HOB and l the dirty water came out. First time working with this stuff..... D'oh
  17. Ok, so, i have a DIY CO2 setup with 2 3L bottles for my 65 gallon tank. So far, the mix will last me anywhere from 4 days to a week. I told my wife that i should probably get pressurized CO2 with a regulator, and she asked will it be worth it in the long run? (for instance will a 5ib CO2 bottle last and entire month or two and refill it for a couple of bucks or will it be the same issue? I.e. Filling it once a week) Im running about 3-4 bubbles per second after i get the pressure to where i want it. Diffuser placement. I have moved My diffuser 3 or 4 times in my tank to get the best water column diffusion. So far its done really well under the filter out put, but it creates larger bubbles in the water column which i personally find unattractive. So ive decided to put it directly under the filter intake and gonna experiment with that. (my hypothesis is that the CO2 will further diffuse in the filter and possibly serve as a large reactor) Opinions and input are much encouraged and maybe share some experience?
  18. Hello, I built my own stand and I have leveling problem. 2 of the 4 corners on my rimmed 75 are not flat. It is not a large gap, but I am still concerned with it breaking a seal. Am I able to use something like hardie board (cement board) and shims under the tank to level or does it need to be plywood? I just have leftover board to use but I am unable to get ply wood right now.
  19. Hey all, so last time I posted a solar set up for the usb nano pump, it was for one pump. A sort of plug and play set up you didn't have to think about but is expensive, considering it was only powering one pump. Then I saw this video: And realized you can cut the power consumption of AqCoop usb nano pump to 3/16 of a watt. Knowing that for about $100 you can build a small solar system to power 4 of the AqCoop nano pumps. Provided you take advantage of the hack in the video. I mathed it out and and a 20 watt panel with a 12Ah battery will power 4 usb nano pumps for most people living in the USA. I'm a project manager for a small solar installation company for people who are in need of credentials. In the picture I used parts I happened to have laying around the shop. That being said I made a shopping list should you want to build one for yourself. None of the following links are affiliated Panel and charge controller kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RZBVTGR/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=AETKFZLJFO5AR&psc= Battery: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K53FG5Q/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Honestly thats all you need to get started running two pumps because the charge controller that comes with the solar panel has 2 usb outputs. If you want to run more than 2 pumps; Extra usb outputs: "updated to a dual usb output" https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FLZ6Q5L/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A2N5NE5XPDEZYK&psc=1 Optional battery leads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07M5M8ZCG/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A35S5P187G2BY3&psc=1 I say optional because you can just use the gator clips as I have, but if you want a more solid cleaner connection and you don't have the tools or parts to make your own leads, then here's an option. I also use this tub to contain the system but you can use any tub really, this is just what I had laying around. https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-7-Gal-Tough-Storage-Bin-in-Black-206152/305185634 Putting the system together is pretty straightforward once you get the parts in your hand but I can make a video for the form should anybody want me to. Key thing to remember connect your battery to the charge controller BEFORE you connect your solar panel. Also if you have any questions on how to size a system, let's say you want it to run 10 pumps or you want to build a system to run a liner piston pump feel free to ask.
  20. I haven't even used this hatchery yet but I could see I wasn't going to like the stand. I was watching an old video of @cory talking about brine shrimp and he had this huge upside down pyramid shaped hatchery and he'd built a stand for it out of PCV pipe. I thought, that's a good idea and I'm sure I can do that. So here it is.
  21. It seems too often that I have failed ideas. Things that are sometimes interesting and maybe worth learning from but aren't worth a new thread. I am making this thread as a singular place to share them, for me, and for anyone else who wants to share any failed ideas too. To start it off, I'm not a huge fan of picking eggs off of yarn spawning mops and I made an attempt at designing a 3d printed modular chain for my rice fish to lay eggs on. My test was not successful. Back to yarn for now.
  22. So the bottom of the tank I am refurbishing is drilled so the overflow and return come up through the bottom allowing for a more flush fit to the wall. It had an Aquoen Overflow kit with the large back piece. What can I do to be able to put this back together with out the large black piece. What is the name of the large black piece? I'm such a newb! There is a article by CO-OP that outlines using filter media, polyester yarn and plants to build your own back ground , which is what I wnat to do. I will paint the piping to blend into the planting. Then plant tall growing plants round them. Which I would like better then large black towers. So, question is. How can I get that done? Hopefully with out a ton of noise. OH, it is going to flow into a seamless Sump system underneath.
  23. I was having trouble with eggs developing fungus in the Ziss egg tumbler. Recently came up with the idea put some filter floss under the sponge it comes with. Keeps miscellaneous fish food and debris out of the hatcher. First hatch with the floss was a success!
  24. I know this is a super stupid question but, when ordering new bulkheads for the tank I am refurbishing. I measure the size of the hole and that is the size I order correct? So I have four holes total in the bottom of the tank. Two for out on each side and two for in on each side. Outs are 1 3/4 ins are 1 1/2. So that is the size I order correct? I ask because the 1 3/4 size doesn't seem that common when U am trying to find them online to order,
  25. This project has been in the works for months and I'm so excited to share it with everyone! I've done a lot of research on stand building and my husband took a one-on-one class from a master furniture maker in the area. So hopefully between those two things, this stand will turn out looking decent. First things first--the plan. I used SketchUp to render the plan in 3D. This was *immensely* helpful and I highly recommend anyone do this who's thinking of building a stand. You can get a 30 day free trial, which is plenty of time to do what you need. Front view: Back view: (No don't worry it won't be these colors--I'll explain the colors later.) My goal was for this stand to hold a 75 gallon on top and some 10 gallons length-wise on the bottom (with room above them to do maintenance), have a storage cabinet big enough for a 5 gallon bucket, and a middle shelf for storage. I also wanted it to look vaguely like a piece of furniture. Here's a sketch-up with a 55 on top and two 10 gallons and one 5 gallon on the bottom. There will be a door on the cabinet eventually, but that's something I can add later. I followed the basic strategy that the King of DIY outlines in his youtube videos. The weight of the aquariums must be supported directly on the stand's legs. So each of the six legs has two parts--an outer, solid piece that directly supports the weight of the top, and inner pieces that stack around the middle shelf, directly supporting the weight of the top frame. The top and bottom shelf have a frame underneath (edges in pink) with joists (brown) running front-to-back. The different colors represent different sizes of wood. We (read: my husband) used our neighbor's planer to plane 2x4's down in order to get rid of the rounded edge. We're hoping it makes the piece look more legit. Fuchsia is 3.5" by 1.125" Green is 2.75" by 1.5" Brown is a regular 2x4 (3.5" by 1.5") White is flat board--3/4" thick on the shelves, and 1/4" thick on the sides of the cabinet One reason we planed 2x4s instead of buying nicer wood without the curved edges is that we already had a ton of 2x4s lying around. Plus wood is really expensive right now! So using what we had made sense in a lot of ways. Today was a beautiful day so I cut all the pieces I'll need. I've never done all my cuts before starting assembly before, and there's no way I would have done it without the SketchUp plans. But I cut the pieces for the frame and then realized I didn't have the right screws, so I decided to keep cutting while I had energy and everything was set up. My work station: My work buddies: (In the background you can see the project that led to us having a ton of 2x4s: the chicken coop!) Here's all the wood that's going to go into the stand. It's a lot. This thing is going to be soooooo heavy.
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