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For sure, agreed. They had been in the same tank with everything consistent since June, getting settled in. This is the first time, and hopefully last for a while, they have been moved. Blue green algae started forming so I took them out and re set that tank. Now wort discus. I feed them Hikari discus pellets, bug bites, and tetra tropical colored granulas. Switching it from day to do. Once a day when their light goes out. I think they’re set now and nothing will have to be changed.

I have the same experience where I’ve never seen hydra do farm to my fry yet. Good news is that sparkling gouramis should eat hydra when they grow up.

why is it that when dealing with a sickness than do some reccomend raising temp to upper 80's or 90

I agree with testing your water source. Also, you said nitrates in your tank are "high". Could you provide exact measurements?

With the business structure we have, and basically anyone who isn’t big business c Corp, There is no reason to lease a space to yourself when you own the business and the property. let’s say I charge $3000 a month for the studio to the business. $3000 goes into my personal account after billing it etc. If I don’t charge myself $3000 for rent, that leaves $3000 in profit at the end of the year which gets paid out to me with no extra paperwork. I also don’t have to prove that none of the studio space is used for non business stuff. As for what’s moving, all the fish, tote ponds, 800g computers, art and trinkets. Possibly some tanks depending on what size I decide.

I have a Pixel 4 and it will do 4k video, so will the new Pixel 5. I think the video and photo quality is excellent,

If I was to do Android it would be a pixel. I’ve tried every Samsung/pixel that has come out over the last years and for me IPhone always wins out.

ohhh

1. Overstocking. For every gallon of water in a tank with a filter, you can keep 1 inch of slim-bodied fish or ½ inch of fat-bodied or deep-bodied fish. 2. Overfeeding. Feed fish what they can eat in 2 minutes, maximum. 3. Overcleaning. Change 10 percent of the water once a week, or 25 percent once a month.

Time to upgrade my phone and looking at options for best photo/video. Thinking about aquariums and YouTube. Want to stick with Android. Google's Pixel devices seem to be strong on the photography end. Not sure on video. Any thoughts? @Cory? @JimmyGimbal?

"The World Health Organization (WHO)Trusted Source notes that bacteria are rapidly killed at temperatures above 149°F (65°C). This temperature is below that of boiling water or even a simmer."

oh ok thanks

I'm not being mean. Just trying to get you pointed in the right direction.

pls stop bieng mean im only 10 and i just started

Sounds like you got a bad infestation. Just keep treating until you don’t see them anymore. These are a pain in the @&$... haha see what I did there? Hopefully they clear up soon. Good luck.

The weather in the Midwest hasn't been my friend this week but I finally got the tank cleaned for the most part so I can hopefully silicone Saturday morning and fill test next week! Will post pictures soon!

I had the same questions but felt awkward asking if it was too personal. I was curious as well if the co-op bought the property and then you leased the home or how that process went since the studio is part of the business/brand but the home is for personal use. Also want to know how much from the old studio is being brought over to the new studio.

1. Provide Enough Space. One of the most important aspects of caring for a fish is ensuring it has sufficient space. 2. Keep the Water Balanced. 3.Create a Comfortable Environment. 4. Feed Your Fish a Balanced Diet. 5. Clean the Tank Regularly.

Seriously? 75.2F Again, a peer reviewed paper please.

I have not figured it out either but I did reach out to the developer to get the question answered. Nice thing as a tester you can give feedback to them for improvements. Doesn't mean they will do it but I am sure the more people that ask for a change it will likely happen.

One of the most common but hardest questions we get is “How many fish can I put in a 10-gallon tank? What about a 20-gallon tank? 55 gallons?” As you may guess, there is an infinite number of possible fish combinations for each aquarium size that we could recommend. To simplify things, let’s first understand the three factors that will most impact your fish stocking levels and then discuss our general guidelines for introducing the right number of fish to your aquarium. #1 Waste Load If you are not familiar with the aquarium nitrogen cycle, it explains that when fish eat food, they end up producing waste, and then beneficial bacteria and live plants help to break down those waste compounds. If the waste level builds up, the water quality goes down and can lead to fish illness or even death. Therefore, it is important that not to put so many fish in an aquarium that the waste they make causes them to get sick. There are several ways to minimize waste load: Filtration Beneficial bacteria naturally grows in our fish tanks and is responsible for consuming toxic waste compounds like ammonia and eventually converting them into less toxic compounds like nitrate. An aquarium filter is one of the main locations where beneficial bacteria likes to grow, so make sure you have adequate filtration that is appropriate for your aquarium size. Read this article to learn about which fish tank filter is right for you. If you just bought the filter and set up your aquarium, there won’t be enough beneficial bacteria yet to process your fish’s waste and keep the water clean. Follow our aquarium cycling instructions to prepare a thriving, healthy environment for your fish, and consider getting some used filter media or buying live nitrifying bacteria to jump-start the cycling process. Aquarium Plants Live aquarium plants are another method of removing toxic nitrogen waste from the water because they consume the nitrogen compounds as food and use the nutrients to grow more leaves. The more plants you have, the more fish the aquarium can handle. In general, fast-growing plants like stem plants and floating plants remove nitrogen waste more rapidly than slow-growing plants. A lush forest of actively growing aquatic plants is capable of absorbing large amounts of toxic waste produced by fish poo, leftover food, and other excess organics. Tank Maintenance In order to keep your fish happy and healthy, use an aquarium water test kit to make sure the nitrogen waste levels measure at 0 ppm (parts per million) ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite, and less than 40 ppm nitrate. If the beneficial bacteria and live plants are not able to consume the waste compounds quickly enough, then you must manually “take out the trash” yourself by removing some of the old aquarium water and adding fresh water with dechlorinator. How often do you want to commit to doing water changes? Once a week, once every two weeks, or even once a month? The more frequently you change water in your aquarium, the more fish you will be able to keep. Fish Food Not all fish foods are created equal. Low-quality foods often break apart easily and contain a lot of filler ingredients that are not digestible, which create more waste. High-quality foods like Xtreme Nano pellets and frozen foods are the opposite and do not create as much waste, which is why we recommend them as “clean” foods. Even if you only feed high-quality fish foods, remember that the more food you feed the aquarium (whether you have lots of little fish or one big fish), the more poop is produced. Plus, some fish are very “messy” because they tend to leave leftover scraps, which will rot in the water if not removed. If you have a messy eater like an oscar, try getting some scavengers that will eagerly clean up after it. #2 Swimming Space In the past, it was often recommended to beginners that you can keep 1 inch of fish for every 1 gallon of water. This rule of thumb mainly applies to small community fish that are approximately 1-3 inches (2-7 cm) in size. For example, ten 1-inch tetras do not have the same body volume as one 10-inch oscar. If you plan to keep bigger fish, the amount of swimming room becomes an important factor to consider. A fancy goldfish can potentially grow to 8 inches (20 cm) in length, so a 20-gallon long aquarium is often recommended as the minimum tank size. These dimensions give the goldfish about 30 inches (76 cm) to swim back and forth, as well as 12 inches (30 cm) to comfortably turn around. However, if you get an angelfish, its body is vertically oriented with a 6-inch (15 cm) length and 8-inch height. Therefore, a 29-gallon aquarium that is 18 inches (46 cm) tall would be more appropriate for angelfish. Adult angelfish may eventually reach an 8-inch height, so make sure your fish tank has the vertical height to accommodate them. Research the minimum tank size for each fish you plan to keep, and go with the largest recommended size if possible. Some fish like zebra danios are only 2 inches (5 cm) long but are very active and need more swimming room. Other fish may be larger ambush predators that don’t move a lot and therefore require less space. Plus, some species are schooling fish and prefer to live in groups of at least 6 to 10 fish, so consider the impact that has on the overall waste load. Finally, look at the maximum size of the fish. Most fish are sold as juveniles at the fish store and may double or triple in size by the time they reach maturity, so make sure your tank has enough swimming space for their final adult form. #3 Aggression Level A last category to keep in mind is the aggression level of your fish. With African cichlids, the key is to add more fish and decrease the swimming space so that no single fish has the room to establish and defend its own territory. You may need to add lots of decorations and plants (which also decreases swimming space) in order to break up the line of sight so that weaker fish can easily escape and hide from the dominant ones. Another example is a betta fish living in a community tank. Bettas often hang out at the top of the tank and may get aggressive if other fish are swimming near the surface in their territory. In that case, you may want to choose tank mates that swim in the middle and bottom layers of the aquarium and will mostly stay out of your betta fish’s way. How to Determine the Right Stocking Level Assuming your aquarium is already cycled (e.g., has a healthy amount of beneficial bacteria and/or growing plants), the easiest way to figure out how many fish you can add to an aquarium is by measuring the nitrate level and making sure it stays below 40 ppm. Let’s say you have a 20-gallon aquarium with live plants and you want to start adding community fish: Figure out which species of fish and invertebrates you want to add and find out if they are all compatible with each other in terms of temperament, size, aggression level, living conditions, and similar diet. Choose a set frequency at which you plan to do water changes. Add your favorite species first. If it is a schooling fish, consider adding the minimum recommended number at first to make sure the aquarium can handle the waste load. Measure the nitrate level each week for 2 to 3 weeks in a row. Once you are certain that the water quality stays high and you can consistently keep the nitrate level below 40 ppm, add your next favorite species. Repeat Steps 3-4 for adding any more species to the tank. Many beginner aquarists like to buy large amounts of fish all at once, but it’s always better to understock your aquarium at first and get more fish later if possible. This slow and methodical method of adding new fish also gives the beneficial bacteria colony time to react and multiply accordingly. Aim to understock your fish tank. The most stable aquarium ecosystems usually contain a lot of plants and fewer fish, much like how a forest is full of trees with not many deer in comparison. Remember that your fish tank is a living ecosystem and will change over time. Some species breed quite readily and the population boom may increase the waste load, so you may need to remove fish to compensate. Healthy plants also grow over time, which decreases the waste load but cuts into the available swimming space. The addition of any new fish may change the aggression level in the tank. You too will change and become a more experienced fish keeper over time, capable of safely keeping a more overstocked fish tank without harming its residents. If you’re interested in leveling up as an aquarium hobbyist, sign up for our weekly e-newsletter to learn about our latest blog posts, videos, and product releases.

s there a brown or black substance that seems to collect like dust bunnies all over the floor of your fish tank? This dirt-like material goes by many names – such as mulm, detritus, and debris – and it’s a naturally occurring part of healthy aquariums. Keep reading as we dissect what mulm is made of, whether you should remove it, and how to minimize its appearance. What Is Mulm? Mulm starts off as fish poop, plant leaves, leftover fish food, and other organic materials that are decomposing in the water. The decaying organics are broken down by bacteria, fungi, microorganisms, and tiny microfauna. This army of detritivores turns the organic matter into mulm, which contains nitrogen compounds and essential minerals that can be consumed by plants and algae. In fact, the fertile soil in our yards and gardens is basically mulm that is made up of decaying leaves, animal droppings, and so forth. Therefore, think of mulm is like the compost heap of an aquarium, where organic waste turns into compost that is rich in nutrients and can be used to revitalize the substrate that plants grow in. Is Mulm Harmful? Generally speaking, no – as long as you have enough biological filtration (e.g., beneficial bacteria and microorganisms) to safely break down the waste. You can measure this with an aquarium water test kit to make sure you have 0 ppm (parts per million) ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite, and less than 40 ppm nitrate. If your tank is not cycled, detritus buildup could be a sign that your aquarium is reaching harmful levels of these nitrogen waste compounds, which can be lethal to your fish. Also, remember that mulm looks like brown or black sediment, so if you see large amounts of uneaten food or other organics that aren’t breaking down, consider removing them with a gravel vacuum to prevent deadly spikes in nitrogen waste. Mulm is beneficial to planted aquariums because they revitalize the substrate and add nutrients for plants to consume. While mulm may look a bit unsightly, it’s actually an indication that you have a thriving ecosystem in your fish tank that can support life and process organic waste without a drop in water quality. For example, ponds and lakes in nature may appear to be “dirty” because of their murky, muddy waters. However, the mulm at the bottom of those waterways is packed full of nutrients that continually feed the inhabiting plants and animals in the cycle of life. In fact, some aquarium hobbyists encourage the growth of mulm by adding catappa leaves and driftwood to create a more natural-looking biotope or breed fish that like the additional cover. Should You Get Rid of Mulm? It depends on whether or not your aquarium can benefit from it. Here are some different setups to consider: Fish tanks without live plants: Mulm can make the water a little cloudy, especially if you have bottom-dwelling fish that like to scavenge in the substrate. Removing the excess mulm will help keep the water clearer and the tank look cleaner. Fish tanks with live plants: Detritus is often left in the aquarium because it provides essential nutrients for plants to feed on and can potentially decrease the amount of fertilizer that is needed. However, if there is so much mulm that it covers your carpeting or short foreground plants, you may want to remove some of it to make sure the plants are getting enough light. Fish tanks with fry: Mulm in an established aquarium often grows infusoria and other microorganisms that are an ideal first food for baby fish. Plus, the extra debris provides extra cover for smaller fry. An aquarium siphon can be used to vacuum the bottom of a fish tank because the heavier substrate sinks to the bottom while the lighter mulm gets sucked up. How Do You Remove or Hide Mulm? If you wish to remove mulm, it can be easily vacuumed up using an aquarium siphon. Detritus tends to pile up at the bottom of the tank in low flow areas. It also gets stuck behind aquarium decorations, driftwood, and rocks. If you have baby fish or shrimp in the tank, be very careful when gravel vacuuming. Some breeders prefer to use a turkey baster or airline tubing (as the siphon tube) to gently remove debris. This next method is great for aquariums with fish that can swim in high currents. Increase the water flow in the fish tank using power heads or circulation pumps. By blowing the detritus into the water column, it has a greater chance of being sucked up by the aquarium filter so that the particles can be mechanically strained out of the water before returning to the fish tank. If too much mulm builds up in the filter, it may become clogged (and even overflow if it’s a hang-on-back filter), so make sure to regularly clean your filter and rinse out the accumulated sludge. If you have a planted aquarium and want to keep mulm in the substrate, there are ways of minimizing its appearance so that your fish tank doesn’t look dirty. Substrates with small, close-fitting particles (like sand) often build up mulm more quickly because the detritus cannot enter or get embedded into the sand as easily. Therefore, choose a mottled, tan-colored substrate so that the mulm is camouflaged and blends in with its surroundings. Another solution is to pick a substrate with small, pebble-sized particles (like gravel or Seachem Eco-Complete) that has plenty of gaps in between, thus allowing the mulm to easily sink between them and reach the roots of your plants.

You are braver than I am, @Streetwise. The live chat goes far tooooo fast for me to keep up! 😁 But I love watching it all scroll by while listening. And I'm recognizing names from the forum too. I announce it to my husband every time I see a "forum friend". I'm grateful for all the information & knowledge that I can glean from all of it. My growing number of fish say "thank you!" 🤩

I went to feed my guppies this morning and saw all of my fish looked fine except for one little guppy fry. He has a strange white blob/bubble near his backside. Is it something to be concerned about? This is a heavily planted 30 long aquarium that has been set up since July 2020. PH: 7.62 Temp: 72.4 F GH: 180ppm (10 drops) KH: 50ppm (3 drops) Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 5

I don't get to join in on the live streams often, unfortunately, the timing usually doesnt work with my schedule, but it is fun to interact with no just Cory but everyone else that is in the stream chatting with one another. I do download the streams when they're released in podcast form and listen while I am at work mowing.