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FrostiesFishes

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  1. FrostiesFishes
    The big tetra pumps work pretty good. How many out puts will you have?
  2. FrostiesFishes
    IMO angelfish like most fish will eat whatever fits in there mouth. So at a quarter size neons will be safe for at least a year possibly much longer. An angelfish would have to be a big adult to eat a neon. But to answer your question when the angelfish is big enough that you say to yourself I bet that fish could fit a neon tetra in its mouth it probably will.
  3. FrostiesFishes
    I’ve kept and spawned 4-5 killifish Species using both peat incubation and just Letting the fry hatch in the tank with the adults. I’ve actually hatched blue gularis loe eggs that I got off aqua bid. And got them to adults and spawned that group. I used spawning mops on the bottom. Then I pulled the eggs and incubated on Peat or coconut fiber. Removing the bad eggs daily. Hatching them is kind a trial and error by wetting the eggs at 3-6 weeks depending on Temp and how they looked. You’ll see What killifish breeders call eggs being eyed up. You’ll see little fish eyes in the eggs, that’s when you wet the eggs. if they are ready they’ll hatch. If they don’t Hatch just put them back on the peat and wait and try again at a later date(trial and error). The fry will take bbs right away. but I also feed vinegar Ells the first week or so till I’m sure they are taking the bbs. The other way is much less work. The fish will spawn, you provide Bbs and plant cover. java moss works well I also used riccia. The adults will eat the fry so as soon as I spot fry I’d collect and move. The peat method advantage is you’ll get a group of fry around the same size. Any questions feel free to message me.A Picture of one of my males.
  4. FrostiesFishes
    Just get a sponge filter.
  5. FrostiesFishes
    You will have more fry survive on live food. Bbs is key but you can use frozen bbs. The key is that they are the baby brine and not the frozen adults. You will still get fry off off flakes but much better results off the live/frozen bbs. In a pinch the instant ocean bbs will work but it has a short shelf life of two weeks from opening. ThatS why I always keep frozen bbs on hand . Also live plants will have some forms of live food. But apisto fry will stay on the bottom so you’ll need the plants to be on the bottom . Java moss works well for this . Best of luck
  6. FrostiesFishes
    20 long racks are great because if you build enough height into them you can switch them to 29’s 🤔
  7. FrostiesFishes
    I second @Coryit’s so much more work, just use bulk heads. It’s a little intimidating at first but as long as you have a good hole saw it’s not a big deal. take your time it’s not that bad . And you can still fill the same with a python. So you don’t have to do a total auto water change system . But just draining the tanks with the bulk heads . I set my 25% down on the tanks . And I drain them and refill. And I gravel vac as needed. And honestly you don’t need to change water as often as you think . A lot of people change water out of habit. I Change water weekly but my tanks are very heavily stocked do to breeding. But I wouldn’t ever start to worry till week 3 or 4 with out a change. And if you could test to see if that’s even needed. I don’t test unless I see a problem. A lot of people hate duckweed, hornwort and other fast growing plants but they really Do a good job at filtering water. Personally I’d rather throw away pounds of duckweed/guppy grass /hornwart weekly then water change and honestly that works a lot of the time.
  8. FrostiesFishes
    How often do you wanna change water? That’s the real question. It’s kind of a science experiment. I have a 72 bow front that the internet would catch fire if they saw how many fish were in it. And yet I have no issues.
  9. FrostiesFishes
    I don’t think gravel is bad for them and they will root around in gravel. but I think It looks cooler and probably a more Natural behavior when they are on sand. In my cory breeding setups that I would typically keep bare bottom. I have started to put some river rocks in a line so that I can attempt to keep sand on one half of the tank so they can root around.
  10. FrostiesFishes
    Go slow and take your time, so you can learn from mistakes. And air system would be my first recommendation for a starting point and unless you really wanna grow a lot of plants you can save a lot of money by not lighting all the tanks
  11. FrostiesFishes
    Normally you’ll see them start to pair off at about 8/9 months.
  12. FrostiesFishes
    I would hatch less, you can freeze extra. I Currently. use two brine shrimp hatchers. But when I had only one. I would just add more salt and eggs every day for three days . Then I would clean and reset. So you always have a supply during that time period.
  13. FrostiesFishes
    I’d put the new filter in and leave it at least two weeks.
  14. FrostiesFishes
    @Daniel thanks I appreciate that, I try to give a good idea of what I’m doing and why and hopefully help other people out with my posts. @faydout that’s awesome, I want to leave the fry eventually , makes it easier on me. But this is my only pair and I like to make sure I can keep them going and pick specific traits out if possible.
  15. FrostiesFishes
    Today I was doing my water changes and As I mentioned in the previous post I was going to remove the fry today. So I was doing my water changes and I checked on the fry this morning before I started the water changes and they were all accounted for in the cave. Well In about three hours time when I got to the pairs tank. The fry were gone! Kicking myself for not starting with pulling the fry first, I started to pull the java fern out and the cave and see if the fry had maybe started to free swim but I had my doubts about that because they still had decent sized yoke sacks attached to them. And They were probably a day or two out from that stage. So I started to look for them and found them scattered around the tank floor. So the adults haven’t eaten them. But now I’ve ripped the tank apart and that stress may cause the adults to now eat the fry. But I planned on pulling them anyway. So I lowered the water level and got in the tank with my little eye dropper and started to collect the fry. I then removed them and put them in a spawning jar. I figured I didn’t get all the fry so it’ll be interesting to see if the parents still raise the few I missed. In the picture they are the little red dots. I’ve never seen red eggs So that’s pretty Interesting . And for the life of me idk why it keeps posting the pictures sideways
  16. FrostiesFishes
    Interesting it May just have something to do with your genetics in the colony, I know that some university has been working with carp or crappie for like 50 years and they don’t show any significant inbreeding traits
  17. FrostiesFishes
    Levamisole But you’ll need to gravel vac and then does it again in two weeks to stun any of the eggs that may have hatched out. Then gravel vac again. I’ve had success with this method. Basically that tanks new life will be a lot of gravel vacing till you clear the worms. But at least in my Angelfish I have found the worms to not be lethal.
  18. FrostiesFishes
    Hello I’ve kept super reds, l333 and l494 together with no issues. But I also have more caves then plecos . And all these species are roughly the same size
  19. FrostiesFishes
    I have no insight to this but am also super curious. How often do you see the small eye happen and is it both eyes or just one?
  20. FrostiesFishes
    A picture would help a lot. But with out seeing it I can add a little bit of insight. So 3 things could be going on. first would be that the angelfish has more of a wide type fin compared to a veil fin and that’s just a totally normal trait. The other two factors That would cause a bent fin are bad water quality or genetics. Now this is from limited experience . I’ve gotta a few angelfish to spawn and see bent fins come from Offspring that when I started to notice the fins being bent checked the water daily. and found no issues with the Water using an api master test kit. So I’d have to blame it on genetics. Hope this helps
  21. FrostiesFishes
    The spawn failed to be fertilized I must have pulled the eggs during the process. But sure enough 3 days ago I had eggs again and now I believe I’m on day 2 or 3 of wrigglers. I left them with the parents currently. I will probably move them this weekend I’ll have to figure out where to move them. Now I’ll be able to keep updates coming fingers crossed
  22. FrostiesFishes
    I would try Fritz Expel-P. It’s for internal parasites, worms and wasting disease. Put them in a qt tank. It’s basically just Levamisole. But probably easier to find then pure Levamisole.
  23. FrostiesFishes
    @Brian Scott at what size did you find the angelfish stoped eating spawns , I’ve got a pair in a 29 and they eat there spawns often.
  24. FrostiesFishes
    Hello, this isn’t great info but I know a guy that works at my local lfs and he’s attempted with 8 species of pike cichlid and Had no success. With that being said I would attempt the method of replicating 5 environmental factors I believe it was frank Kirschbaum method he used on electric fishes. But I can’t find the info I was looking for in a quick google search. Maybe some one else will chime in with more info.
  25. FrostiesFishes
    Hello, you are correct that most hardware store air compressorS are oil free. I would assume It would use more electricity to run compared to a linear piston air pump. But yeah you could figure out the math, not to mention the inrush amp drawl to start the motor As often as it’ll probably cycle On and off. Now that all depends on tank size and air demand obviously. So they’ll be a lot of guess work trying to figure all that out. As far as draining the tank it is all a matter of how much the unit runS and the amount of water in the ambient air. Humid environments obviously cause more water to be compressed as a by product of the air compared to a dry winter. And lastly if there is water in the tank I promise you it will end up at your point of use. We install all kinds of in-line filters to remove water from compressed air lines. And depending how the system is designed you have all kinds of other costs. But could it be done yes. Honestly if you wanted to go against the grain maybe looking at a blower is a better option but those things are loud!
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