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About Me

  1. I am happy with my sponge filters, but I want to try a hang-on-back filter for fun. I am very picky about design, and any visible aquarium technology has to be symmetrical or at least left/right balanced, (like with a canister, uptake on one side, centered spray bar, heater on the other side). Besides the massive Marineland units, this seems to be the only symmetrical HOB filter. Has anyone used one of these? Thanks!
  2. I've started a few threads to get information and now I'm finally starting to work on it. However, I forgot to take pictures of the first day. I wanted to start this journal to document the process for my own benefit, but maybe others can as well. This stems from a desire to experiment with anoxic filtration, using a slow moving plenum as described by Dr Novak. A lot of people criticize his work without actually trying it. But I want to try it. I don't understand the science of it all, but I do understand anaerobic conditions is important. And if all goes well, a true nitrogen cycle can take place when nitrates are not just used by plants, but bacteria consumes it. If this is successful, my next experiment will be in a 20 gallon with shell dwellers. No plants, obviously. So before I mess with higher priced fish that are sensitive, I'll start with hardy fish. This 10 gallon will be planted with low tech plants. I don't intend to use ferts or CO2. Just lights 5 hours a day. The parts/pieces I'll be using: - 10 gallon aqueon tank that's about 5 years old - Safe T Sorb as a substrate - laterite - plants from the co-op: so far leaning toward wisteria, dwarf sag, and crypt lutea. - co-op USB powered air pump with tubes - air stone - plen plax UGF - fine mesh filter media bags - whisper 10 HOB with coarse sponge and ceramics - Dr Tim's for cycling. - fish; I'm leaning toward white clouds, but considering endler live bearers to satisfy my son's desire for color. Day 1: sift through safe t sorb. Pictures wouldn't be exciting anyway.
  3. I have a 40 gallon acrylic tank which I have just taken the scratches out of, a couple of Angel fish and some smaller fish. Concerned about night time noise from canister, and the possibility of strong water flow and angel fish, looking for canister clean level of water maintenance. I have two possibilities for spotless water: 1) run the Ehiem canister during the day and your large sponge filter around the clock. What do you think of running canister only in the day time? 2) Go internal. The Ziss filter looks interesting, but may not quite do the job? Sponge filters work but don't clean the water that well. You have a power head shown to top a sponge filter? Can it top anything else. Any ideas regarding Ziss or your power head? Thanks, Mark
  4. I'm copying my text from the original post on another forum since I'm not allowed to post the link. The original post was from 5/30/20. Enjoy! I'm going to take a crack at building my own sump for my 125 mostly South American 125 gallon aquarium. I have been using the one in the photo for 3 years now and it's okay but it was originally designed for saltwater and I'm hoping I can do better. The planned dimensions are 48" x 15" x 15", approximately 46 gallons. I'm building it out of 1/4" polycarbonate and sealing it with the Weldon 16. I am basing it on the attached photo I found online. I'm looking for constructive criticism and help only. It's planned for the water from the tank to pour into the socks on the left, flow into 2 or 3 Cer-Media bio filter blocks, then spill over and down thru the vertical section but with 3 levels instead of 2. Cotton batting at the top, volcanic rock, and/or bio-balls. I was thinking of adding another vertical section of 3 levels with more filtration and purigen as the top level. Next it will flow over into the heater section and finally the return pump on the far right. One of my thoughts is, if I add another vertical section that would flow up then to the heaters, should the water flow under the divider to the pump or still go over spill into the pump section? **I removed the logos from the sump diagram as it's just used as a reference. ** Skip to 7/20/20 for the next installment. Well, it took 6 weeks for me to get the correct polycarbonate. I had to reorder since I ordered the incorrect width. Anyway, it took about 13 hours from start to finish. We started with three sheets for 32" x 48" x 1/4" clear polycarbonate. We cut it with a table saw and hand sanded all the edges with multiple grits of fine sandpaper. I'm going to give it 24 hours to set up then it will sit with water in it for a week to check for leaks. I'll also be putting a pump in it to see how it will flow. From 7/21/20 - I let the Weldon 4 and 16 cure for 24 hours then added water. I've got a few leaks but nothing too bad. I dried it out and will seal it again after the joints have a chance to dry out. Then on 7/27/20 - After fixing the leaks, I let it sit in my garage for the entire week with an 800 gph pump circulating water for a week. Friday night I finally installed it. The entire process took about 4 hours. I also replaced all the tubing. Here is a photo of it up and running. I am currently using two 200 micron socks but I think they're too fine. They clog up quickly and restrict water flow. I may switch to 300 micron and see how that does.
  5. I know that Cory is in favor or Coarse filters. I recently heard Jason from Prime Time Aquatics discuss in a video the differences (pros and cons) between fine and coarse filters. I see that Jason is in favor of the Fine Sponge Filters. I was wondering if any of you have tried both and can state which one you prefer and why?
  6. Hello all, I currently have a newly planted 40 gallon breeder stocked with 6 ember tetras. I have a Marineland penguin 200 hang-on back filter and I fear that A). there is too much filtration and is sucking up any food before the fish really get a chance to eat it. B). the HOB is providing too much flow in the tank. Is it possible either of these are a problem? If so, should I switch to a sponge filter or is there any way to slow the flow of the filter? I already have a prefilter sponge on the intake. Thanks!
  7. Hey all. My sister recently gave me a 50 gallon low boy. When she offered it to me, I thought that's what she was calling her 50 long. I thought, okay, great. Then I saw it. I'm still happy to have it for free lol but I'm a bit confused about how to filter it now. I had planned to put a large Co-Op sponge filter in it, but given the 1' height, I'm wondering if I'd be better off with two meds, or smalls, or maybe even a quartet of nanos or something. I'm really not sure how to go about this though. Any low boy fans out there who can steer me in the right direction? Any input would be appreciated.
  8. Thanks in advance for any advice. 😃 I run 1 or 2 sponge filters w/ my HOB in my 20g. I presently have a bn, 8 ember tetras, and some cherry shrimp culls. I am planning on adding a betta that's presently in quarantine. (He's sharing quarantine w/ neon tetras for another tank to see if he is aggressive 😇) Will removing the HOB and just leaving the sponge filter ruin my cycle ? The HOB is a 20g Aqueon w/intake sponge and using ceramic + sponge Is there anything I should do special to avoid that possibility? Or should I just use the HOB ? Trying to control flow for the betta. 🤔
  9. Do you have a sump? Considering getting one? DIY or manufactured? Questions about how they work? Looking for inspiration? I wanted to create this thread for people to share and learn about sump filtration. Ask questions, comments, concerns. If you have one, post some photos and what equipment you're running. If you've made your own sumps, share what worked and what didn't. Sumps are infinitely customizable for the ultimate hot rodded filter. You might never go back to canister filters after you have one.
  10. There is a lot of debate on running carbon on a planted tank. Some think the carbon removes the added fertilizers while others say the amount removed is minimal. Anyone running carbon in your filter on their panted tanks? Are they doing well or not? Curious what peoples thoughts are here in this forum. Curious what @Cory's thoughts are.
  11. So... I going to be setting up a pair of 6 gallon nano tanks for display in a Ikea Kallax bookcase. The Kallax looks like the attached pic. The "cavities" in it measure 13" x 13" x 15" (deep), and the tanks I will be using measure 11.5" cubed. The intended inhabitants are to be soft-water nano fish (a dozen neon tetras in one, a dozen chili rasboras in the other), plus lots of shrimp and some nerite snails. Plant life will be Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus (background), with some Water Sprite for the mid-ground and moss balls scattered. Here are the details of the build: (2x) Aqueon Frameless Cube tanks - 6 Gal. each (2X) Fluval Plant 3.0 Nano Lights (2x) Aquarium Coop Nano Sponge Filters (2X) Penn-Plax UGF plates (the set intended for a 10 gallon aquarium is 2 plates measuring 9.5" each, so one in each), set up in a slow-flow plenum configuration (1X) Tetra AP60 air pump (definitely bigger than required, but I wanted dual outlets, and this is the smallest one that has them) to supply the plenums and sponges (2x) auomii Mini submersible heaters, 50W (again, bigger than needed, but I had these laying around) Substrate will be a mix of Fluval Stratum (for water softening and the shrimp) and Seachem Flourite Red (for the anoxic setup - details to follow), plus some Seachem Matrix Bio-Media for under the plenums. The goal is to establish a bio-system that requires very limited water changes, and a reduction in supplemental plant fertilization. I've had great success with this in my Walstadt Method setups, but I wanted to try something new. I'm a fan of "fish-centric" aquariums (I don't enjoy the details of being an "aquatic plant farmer"). The methods used in most setups is to heavily plant and rely on nitrate feeding by those plants (along with supplemental fertilization) to keep the environment stable. I'm not a fan of relying on plants for this, IMO you become a slave to them - and not the other forms of life. The theory here is to let the anoxic filter consume the nitrates, and feed the plants with ammonia (which they greatly prefer anyway). Stay tuned...
  12. I am about to replace my disposable cartridges in my filter with the co op sponge. I am adding purigen to the filter as well to help with tannis from a piece of drift wood.. I also have the ammonia and phosphate pads, but my space is limited...which pad (ammonia or phosphate) would be best to add? There are no live plants and it's a turtle tank.
  13. I am really happy for Cory and the fact he has his own sponge product, but UGFs are so much better, IMHO. They NEVER go bad, they never wear out, they don't eat baby fish or shrimp (not that Cory's sponges do, but we all know sponge can be carnivorous) The list of PROs is SO long and the list of CONs, is well most of the CONs, proper use and education will remove. This is very similar to the 30 plus year old UGF I have in several tanks. Don't remember it being this expensive. https://www.amazon.com/Lees-Premium-Undrgravel-18-Inch-48-Inch/dp/B0002APVAW I have may like this one https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Undergravel-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B003UTNOU6/ But these break easy! I made one like this using PVC and https://www.amazon.com/Undergravel-Filteration-Bottom-Circular-Aquarium/dp/B00ZUIRGOU/ using lava rock and it works very well! Going to watch some videos that I might want to share in this thread. BRB!
  14. Hello! I've got a JBL 28gal nano cube tank with 25 white clouds. Algae has been a problem, so has the water quality. The ecology doesn't seem well established after almost 6 months with recurring spikes in nitrates and nitrites. The tank has a built-in overflow style filter powered by a pair of pumps in the outside chambers that returns the water after it passes through the filter chamber. The removable chamber holds ceramic cylinders plus 3 chunks of porous foam. I'm wondering if this method of filtration doesn't work as well as it should? I could easily replace it with a pair of sponges and shut that mess down. I have been introducing plants that struggle with hair algae almost constantly on the growth. Thoughts on the filtration greatly appreciated! Perry
  15. After my fluval 406 canister broke, I'm done with canisters lol. I've switched my entire fish room to full sponge filters, and they work great but I'm a real fan of crystal clear water. As more and more tanks get added to my collection, I become more and more lazy when it comes to filter maintenance, so I'm brainstorming some ideas. What has worked for you? I just need something easy to operate in order to use polyfilter for that pristine water clearness! I was thinking of saving some money and putting a downsized hang on back for each tank (since they're not the main filtration source). Also, Shark internal filters seem to do the trick too, I got one and it works fantastic, clogs up really fast but I guess that's good cause it's doing its job!
  16. After all the advice I have received from everybody in this site about my water clarity issue i think I have determined that my filter Just can't handle my tank. I bought a complete top fun kit that had everything i needed. Is it possibly that my filter can't keep up. I modified it to make it the best I could. I put a coarse sponge, fine filter material, bio rings, and then more fine material on top to polish that I remove every couple days. Nothing seems to be working. I also tucked a piece of fine filter around the intake tube in the back. I'm wondering should I replace the filter with an aquaclear, and go one size up to a 50. Or should I do something different with my current filter. TIA
  17. Is over filtration possible? Until recently I didn't like the idea of sponge filters however I've changed my mind about this after watching filtration videos and several reviews of the Aquarium Co-op sponge filters. I will be setting up a new 29 gallon acrylic show tank with dirted substrate within a few weeks. I plan on running two Aquarium Co-op medium sponge filters, one in each back corner along with a SeaChem Tidal 55 HOB and a Cobalt Aquatics EXT 26000 canister filter.
  18. Hello! I have been watching many videos lately on how people can take PVC, a piston air pump, a few other items and have the ability to run their sponge filters all off of the one pump. When I watch the videos the PVC is always on the ceiling. For aesthetic purposes, does anyone know if I'd have the ability to put the PVC on the ground? If you don't know what I am talking about I included a link from Prime Time Aquatics that I was watching that have the same filtration setup that I'd be going for. Thanks!
  19. Just wanting some input on this, as I had trouble finding contents posted by the Co-Op specifically on this equipment type. Not sure if the Ziss Bubble Filter counts, but I was thinking something more similar to this (just as a reference): https://fluvalaquatics.com/us/u-series/ https://www.amazon.com/Sicce-SIC113-Filtration/dp/B007GCFYW4 Are they not talked much about because many of them have quality defects or user-friendly issues? Or is it in the Co-Op's opinion that sponge/HOB filters simply perform better? I like my HOB because it takes little tank space, but it sometimes makes a lot of noise by vibrating against the glass or creating a waterfall when water level drops. That's how I became curious on internal power filters, but I don't want to waste money...
  20. I was thinking about an undergravel filter, with the outlet connected to overflow plumbing, then down to an ordinary sump.
  21. I was using just a 20-gallon air-bubble filter for the purpose of processing ammonia, as well a providing water flow & circulation, oxygen, to the water for my planted guppy/ghost shrimp aquarium. I've now added a 25 gallon submersive pump that I've pulled apart and rigged to flow water back into the aquarium from the surface (just like a HOB filter would). Unlike the air-bubble filter, this submersive pump does not have filter media or a sponge to collect debris. To save fish from being sucked into the propeller, I have tie-wrapped a clay ornament to the bottom. The ornament reduces the power output from the pump by ~20% due to the limited space allowing water to be sucked in by the propellors. The details of the last bit there isn't so relevant to my question I have here, though: My question is this: Will the air-bubble filter with media be less effective at processing ammonias when the sub pump is running? The way I see it, if the aquarium is 20gallons, the air bubbler is rated for 20gallons, and the sub pump is rated for 20gallons, then the effectiveness of the filter media inside the air bubbler will be less due to the flow being diverted to the submersive pump. I'd imagine this may result in an ineffeciency of the processing of ammonias by the filter media by ~15-20%. What do you guys think?
  22. I know many things contribute to algae blooms in a freshwater aquarium but I’m just curious if people have encountered this type of algae before. it’s a floating green algae that develops bubbles as it photosynthesizes. I think it may be due to low circulation on the tank? It’s growing in a tank with both low and medium light so I don’t think it’s due to light levels.
  23. I am thinking about adding canister prefilter to external fluval 206, maybe it's not necessary but i want to know and talk about it. So there's two options- 1. Prefilter without pump- that's straight forward Inlet-prefilter-canister-outlet 2. Prefilter with pump (my concern is how that pump would work with fluval 206 pump) would prefilter pump water too fast or too slow? In attachment are two prefilters one with pump and one without so you can get better idea what i am thinking about. In prefilter i would add just mechanical filtration and in fluval 206 just biological filtration. Just info- prefilter pump around 100 gallons per hour, fluval 206- 206 gallons per hour.
  24. I’m setting up a 10 gallon for some smaller fish and I’m considering using an under gravel filter to maximize swimming area. I used one when I was a kid on a 20 gallon with good success. Any thoughts?
  25. I'm setting up an auto-top off system and I was curious to see if anyone had any suggestions for an in-line chemical/sediment filtration system. I think this would work for what I have in mind, but obviously I don't need the faucet that comes in the kit. Also, I'm using 1/4" water line with push connect fittings. Sorry! Something went wrong! WWW.AMAZON.COM Thanks for your suggestions!
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