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  1. Hello everyone, So i've essentially got an infinite amount of H2O at my disposal now that i've automated all my water changes using carbon block water filters and overflows. I'm wondering wether there's a limit for how much you can change the water before it will affect the bacteria or fish? Is 200% a week overkill when you're heavily feeding and the water being changed "gradually throughout the week" is pretreated, heated and oxygenated etc? I want to be able to over feed bucket loads of brine shrimp and not worry about clouding or ammonia spikes by doing 20-30% water changes on a drip system throughout the day. In an ideal world i'd have a drip system to feed live brine shrimp every 2 hours as-well but that's a problem for some other high-tech automation Nerm to work out 😅 I've successfully drilled all 20 of my Grow Out and Conditioning Tanks with 1/4 inch holes for attaching quick connect pipes and irrigation tube for draining water. Now drilling a few more for auto water top-offs and extra drainage on bigger tanks "it's painfully slow but doesn't really need to be much wider pipe with a drip system". Everything seems to be going smooth so far, for now i'm manually topping off the tanks every other day and they drain themselves to about an inch or two from the rim of the tank. 🤞🏻😅 I've also discovered adding a length of tube to an elbow or T-Fitting will bell siphon the tank to as low as you want and then you can fill to just under the outlet hole until you're ready to do another water change, top it off and let it siphon back down again! 😄 I use tap water filtered with carbon then catalytic carbon blocks (which filters out the chlorine + chloramines that I've discovered Melbourne Water has a small amount of in Australia) Now the plan is to set up a water pump on a solenoid to automatically fill the tanks each day through the inlet hole with a couple gallons of treated water from a big water drum hidden upstairs in the pantry haha (and auto dosing a dash of prime into the drum every other day to combat the excess ammonia that is generated when you filter out chloramines with carbon) Or perhaps I could be using Purigen or some other ammonia sucking resin for that 🤔 The third hole is going to be plugged or just extra drainage for now, but at some point I might use it for mixing RO water into specific tanks with fish that like super soft water or to trick Corydoras into breeding i've heard haha 🤣 Perhaps it can be my Brine Shrimp Dispensing Inlet when someone invents a live Brine Shrimp Generator hahaha
  2. I'm going back and forth on two different water change systems and how to automate them. My tap water has chloramines. Which adds an additional layer of expense (carbon block filters) and uncertainty. I'm not sure how long the carbon block filters will last and there is no warning system for if it has been used up. What if I simply forget to change them out. Am I making a big deal over nothing? So with that component added in. I am wondering if it would be easier and cheaper to automate the filling of a water storage tank and adding an auto doser to drop in prime/safe. And then use a pump to deliver water to the aquariums. Another pro to this setup is I could probably do without a hot water heater out...as the water could come up to temp in the storage container since I will heat the room. I'll be dealing with about 20 aquariums totaling 1,000 gallons. Thoughts? And as a monkey wrench. The property has an old well. I could investigate getting the well running, but it would cost a pretty penny. I'd estimate 2-3,000 by the time I bought equipment and had water lines trenched up to my shop (400-500' or so).
  3. I'm currently filling up 5 gallon home depot buckets and walking them downstairs (no water in basement). It occurred to me that I could use a pump to fill the tanks from the bucket. Started looking for some cheapo fountain pumps for ~$10 and am uncertain about which one is going to be capable of the task. I'd like to keep the buckets full of water on the ground and have the pump do the work of filling the tank. From the floor to the top of the water column in the tank is roughly 5ft. Seems that 200GPH is the minimum requirement for that lift with 1/2" tubing. Just wanting to confirm that with anyone else's experience doing this.
  4. I am told that part AV4, the needle valve often used for auto water change systems is not available. Alternative suggestions?
  5. @DavidR was asking in another thread about automated water changes. My water comes from a well into my utility room where I run it through an reverse osmosis (RO) system. The big pump (red circle) takes the water from the RO system and pumps it through PEX tubing embedded in the concrete slab for our house and pumps the water over and into my large aquarium in the living area. The large aquarium has an overflow standpipe that only lets the water get to the top of the aquarium before it goes down the pipe and out to the summer tubbing ponds. This is the automated part of the water change. The second part is less automated but only uses gravity. Once the water is in the big tank, it is 7 1/2 feet off the ground and will readily flow downhill to the aquariums in the fishroom. The picture below is of doing a water change on the green water tank this morning. The floors are concrete so spilling a little water isn't the end of the world. It is nice to not have to use buckets.
  6. I just installed a line for doing drip auto water changes into a short rack of tanks. Because I'm familiar with the DripWorks stuff for gardening, I ran a line above the tanks and tapped in some drippers. I'm realizing now, this isn't the world's best solution for my application. Where the driplines tap into the mainline isn't the tightest fit and each line occasionally drips at its tap point a teeeeeeny tiny bit. Nothing dramatic, but a drip nonetheless. So, the question . . . for those who've set up similar systems, how do you do it? 1/4 RO tubing and john guest fittings? Something something else? I only have a short run of the drip system above the tanks, so plumbing up an alternative solution wouldn't be that time consuming. Just looking for the advice and experience of other's who've successfully done this.
  7. Hello everybody, I've watched Cory's video on the automatic water change system and there's one thing I can't figure out. There's a filter that the water goes through to remove chlorine and other polluants but doesn't it also remove Hydrogen ions and minerals making pure water ? How can it go directly to the aquariums if this water has no buffer or minerals ? Are they added in another way ? Thank you for any answers
  8. Howdy Nerms! I have grown into a fish room and breeding and would like to start a auto water top off or change system soon, maybe. Do you have any pitfalls or suggestions to consider as I research/plan? I have 25 tanks currently with city water. What are thoughts on drip lines verses sumps filter? Is it ok with DIY overflows or should you really have bulkheads. I really don't want to get ahead of myself just looking for some wisdom to center my thoughts. Many thanks, Tedrock.
  9. Hello everyone, I am starting to move next week and going from a fish corner to a fish garage. I am looking at setting up auto water change in the garage. I am a bit confused on how you do it. Everyone shows you how to get water into the tanks but nobody ever talks about out. Is it as simple as pumping water into a tank with an overflow and letting the water flow out the other side as you pump it in? Thanks in advance.
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