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mountaintoppufferkeeper last won the day on July 15

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  1. Id guess the owner may chime in eventually but happy to guess as well. My vote is also one of the deeper bodied tetras and similar to the xray tetra. Based of the fin colors of those young fish I'd say they could also be rosy tetra or a candy cane tetra.
  2. Depending on where the label is i will cut or break my clay pot cave hole so the label is the portion i remove and avoid the hassle completely. It may be worth soaking the pot in warm water first to loosen that adheasive on the label then trying to peel it off. Id also consider trying distilled white vinegar or hydrogen peroxide to remove labels and then just rinse it after to get any remaining sticker residue off.
  3. Big day today day 21 ..... we have moved the puffer fry to their first grow out, a 9 gallon, in the left rack system. I expect they will stay there for a few weeks before we quick swap out to a 20 or 28. Their upstairs roomates Pelvicachromis subocellatus "Moanda", in a 28 gallon on the shelf above, just decided today was time to leave the cave and introduced me to their first kids.
  4. Day 19. Getting sizable every feeding and behaving more like puffers with two way interactions now. Happy I have the COOP Ziss brine shrimp hatcher process going well for my set ups; certainly a primarybreason these started feeding well and have been getting bigger seemingly every hour. Almost to our daphnia,scuds, bloodworms with vitachem, and sub adult cherry shrimp stage of foods for these first few F1 P.palustris.
  5. So many things that could be done there 🙂 . Attached photos of some of the cichlid I mention and a couple puffers I have kept and photographed. Both puffers are asking for food in the photos. The hairy puffers get very excited for attention and of course meals. I am pretty partial to the puffer and many cichlid species for a wet pet level of interaction. They all are pretty observant and responsive in my set ups. I had a Spotted Congo Puffer (Tetraodon Schoutedeni) before that was very sociable and generally allowed other fish to coexist in the tank. A group of hairy puffer (Pao baileyi) has worked for me but feeding can be problematic if the food is a little too big. Mekong River Puffer (Pao palustris ) they are pretty intense as a group and might be a bit over the top in their occasional chats for that setting but the colors are awesome. I have considered a larger group of pea puffers in a big planted tank before, something like 8 in a 55 gallon, My guess is they would likely establish territories and have all kinds of shenanigans in there between themselves. That kind of set up would also have the potential for surviving fry to be discovered with the right plant cover, limited other tankmates, and mulm / microfauna to grow on. Cichlids Crenicichla Regani dwarf pike, Molwie Krib pair, or Bolivian Ram Pair are pretty great. Crenicichla Orinoco dwarf pike are a little more of a species tank but also fairly interactive -- they love food. all day any day any type they are in. A large group of silvertip tetra would likely be a crowd pleaser. Not quite the wet pet nameable option but watching them follow fingers on the glass always makes me think how fun that would be for everyone of all ages.
  6. @Patrick_G funny thing is that wasn't that long ago and was pre Pao palustris acquisition. That visit and the Fahaka I sent with Trent opened that tank up for one of the more interesting projects this year. Time flies.
  7. Im generally a fan of multiple fish of a species as a disclaimer to my list 🙂. 10 years is a fairly long time and would likely have a few tank adjustments and resets as you evolve how you most enjoy it. I would personally use live plants to help stabilize parameters a bit, filter, and break up sight lines My list of options i would consider by themselves in a flex 9. 1 to 3 pea puffer that might end up with 1 pea puffer but id try it with enough sight breaks. Pencilfish group (pretty much all of them) Clown killifish group Smaller mouthbrooding betta trios: B.albimarginata or B.channoides African Butterfly Cichlid Pygmy sunfish Cory ideas:
  8. @James BlackThat made me want to go look up the choices you list which I didn't select. I also wonder what the "others" are. COOP was the first for me (3 or 4 ish Cory fish room versions ago) and I went out into the COOP adjacent channels as well at some point. That the majority of the fish tube for me. I got hooked on Weldon Tanks and even did my first room tour with him as an eventual result of Cory suggesting him way back when either on a livestream or in a video ( 2019 Ziss bubble bio filter review era maybe?). Funny thing is that one suggestion years ago got me even deeper in the hobby and led me to a bigger circle to exist in; plus we have this forum now which is amazing. Crazy to think that one moment in a livestream could evolve to today where I share texts and essentially "phone a friend " calls on fish questions, with a handful of hobby friends I only had the chance to meet as a direct result of that suggestion.
  9. I find all plants interesting to have in my attempted ecosystems. I have had frogbit melt to nothing in one tank and choke off the surface in the another tank with the same water and similar stocking and feeding schedules. 🤷‍♂️
  10. 2 plants to try, 1 or 2 smallest available containers of food, and whatever miscellaneous stuff caused the order in the first place: repashy, scissors, easy green, root tabs, meds, breeder boxes, egg tumblers, hatchers, planters, airline, etc
  11. @tnnlynch I trade / offset some costs with it at times. Normally I just toss the extra similar to the used box filter floss. My floating plants are primarily used to filter and indicate the health of my water as well as provide a bit of cover; I view removing the excess as a part of keeping the frogbit remaining colony healthy; being tossed is a better option to me than choking out the air exchange or the rest of the frogbit by limiting nutrients to each plant. My set ups get thinned back to 1/4th of the surface when it gets to 1/2 coverage of the surface of the tank.
  12. @Keeg I have three id say 1. Same as yours essentially: Talking about a project too early can cause breeding to not occur or causing fry to not develop. 2. Do not move the puffer cave to check on eggs because it "causes" extra fighting. 3. If adults of any species do not breed within a month of arrival up here they will not breed at 9,100' in altitude.
  13. @Nick H.To me his belly looks rounded and he seems like a happy puffer off the photo. Have you seen any empty or crushed up snail shells? I might try frozen krill, bits of human grade frozen shrimp, or the bloodworm with vitachem for the vitamin benefits. that vitachem stuff is like puffer candy. My fahaka now a friends with a bigger tank, loved ramshorn snails but wouldnt touch MTS, also loved cherry shrimp until one day he didnt, and occasionally ate frozen krill with vitachem. He was very particular of a feeder. I would try and watch longer during feeding or maybe place theflake and pellet in an easy to see spot to get the snails that he should be eating in a visable location. If the puffer is hungry it would eat the snails baited to the food right in front of you in most instances. from the photo angle it really looks to be food in that belly to me.
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