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  1. So in another post I'm setting up a 20 gallon fry tank. Been going 3 days now. Have used a good chunk of substrate , plants, and other material from my cycled tank in there. Added some easy green and iron and water conditioner when doing water changes on it the last 3 days. Using a older hob filter for now but getting in a ACO sponge filter in today that I'll put in my cycled tank until I move the mom over . So the parameters. 24 hours after setup Ammonia. 0.75 ppm. Nitrate. 5.0ppm. Nitrite. 1.0ppm. Ph. 7.8 Today..... Ammonia 0.50. Nitrate. 80ppm. Nitrite. 2-5ppm. Ph. 7.4. Def a spike and not sure if this is just the tank running it course or if I've missed something. Any help would be awesome. Thanks yall
  2. anyone know of a freshwater equivalent to miracle mud, or if not a good way to add a large diversity of micro organisms to a new tank?
  3. So I started a 14G cube tank last Monday. Have been keeping tanks for years, so I know the normal cycling process, but I figured I'd try this one using Seachem Stability. I used Prime for the water conditioner, but only for the initial fill and for top off water, I haven't been dosing it to the tank or anything. I started off with the Stability last Monday and added 8 neons, have been following the instructions and doing the daily does of Stability. Long story short, I haven't seen a spike in anything yet. Have tested with API test strips and API liquid test kits, and have gotten 0 Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate every time. I also added an ammonia alert to keep a constant eye on the level. I know the prime "detoxifies" all three, but I should still be able to see them on the tests right? Is the Prime messing with the tests? Should I ditch the Prime and switch to just a declorinator? Thanks
  4. I am currently running a new tank. 1st day filled 40 gallon breeder tank, with my tap water used dechorinator. Added a brand new sponge filter with an air stone. I tested water parameters to see what baseline would be. Ph 8.0, KH 12 degrees, GH 13 Degrees. Rechecked at 48 hours to check parameters after gassing off. ph 8.2, KH 1 degree, GH 13 degree. I added some fish food until I have 2.0 ammonia, added fritz zyme 7 (16 oz) for the 40 gallon tank. I will be keeping Axolotls in this tank in the future. waiting for my hob tidal 55 to get here to help run the tank. i will be modifying the filter to meet the axolotls slower flow needs. I noticed over the week the ammonia hasn't increased or decreased. steady at 2.0. I added some plants java fern and java moss,and hornwort. I have concerns with my kh being so low as i have read that kh acts as your stability to ph as an on going system, I also need to bring my ph down some for the axolotls to be happy, down to at least 7.6. what are the best ways short and long term to help fix my water situation? I dont have a local knowledgable fish store to assist me. I guess I need to lower ph and then raise my kh without increasing my ph. Any and all suggestions are welcomed, then throughly research those ideas before implementing. Thank you all in advanced! Have a beautiful day!
  5. I am currently cycling a brand new 75G tank, its been up for a week now, and I believe its in the Nitrogen spike. I am fishless cycling so fish food is being added along with bacteria (the refrigerated kind) and fertilizer for the plants. I have Very small Amazon swords and two types of Anubis. Taller Anubis that I cant remember the name of and some Nano petits. The Taller Anubis are melting back greatly, while cycling should I cut the dying leaves or leave them in the tank and on the plant for ammonia production? Pictures below are Tank on day plants were added and today one week later.
  6. I'm currently cycling an aquarium that I plan on making into a planted tank. I've been cycling this aquarium for a long time now (over 2 months, due to some issues on my part) and am finally starting to get nitrates, so I'm a little paranoid about adding plants to the mix if they will be consuming the ammonia in the tank that is needed to cycle it. I might just be paranoid, but figured I'd ask. Is it okay to add plants in the aquarium even though it is still cycling? Would this mess with my parameter test results? Thanks!
  7. I’ve been trying to cycle my 5.5g tank for over a month. Seeded sponge, media from 30g tank but no luck. I have one Betta in the tank and use Prime every day. Some days I have less ammonia and it appears I have some nitrates. No nitrites (API text kit). I took my water to Petco today to get a second opinion with their test strips and it says no ammonia. My test tube shows light green and not yellow. I’ve read that low PH can cause slow cycling. My PH is 6 or under. I’m obsessing with this little tank. Every morning testing water. Help.
  8. I am thinking about setting up an indoor mini pond this winter and was going to use a sponge filter in it. I was gonna put the filter in my outdoor pond to give it time to cycle before I put it in my mini pond. About how long will that process take for it to have plenty of bacteria?
  9. Need some expert help here. I am pretty well versed in planted aquariums, cycling, and keeping shrimp, but this one 20L tank is driving me insane. It still has not cycled in 3 months. I have successfully done 3 other fishless cycles in three other tanks that are thriving, so I’ve got good knowledge of the nitrogen cycle and things like that. This one here though 🤬. Everything thing seems to be growing nicely and looks healthy but tank just won’t process the ammonia. PH 7.4 Ammonia 4ppm Nitrite 0 Nitrate 10 GH 179 KH 71.6 Temp 78 Eco complete planted substrate Remineralized RO water Planted Fluval 207 canister filter with Biohome biomedia Only difference in this and my other tanks is this has a canister filter and eco complete substrate. I have tried EVERYTHING. Biological booster, Dr Tim’s One and Only, Fluval Cycle, Tetra Safe Start, and Prime with Stability. Nothing works. Test kits are good. API and FLUVAL. Used old media from cycled tanks too, nothing. Does ANYONE know why this cycle is not progressing?
  10. Hello Everyone, I started trying to cycle my second aquarium, which is a 5.5g with two of the Aquarium Co-Op nano sponge filters (cycling two sponges so I can downsize a sponge filter in my other aquarium), on 04/24/21 but as of right now, over two months later, the parameters are sitting at: Ammonia = 5.0ppm, Nitrites = 0.25ppm, and Nitrates = 0ppm. I was able to detect nitrites starting in mid-May, but the concentration has literally sat unchanged as well as the concentrations for Ammonia and of course Nitrate. The only difference I can think of between cycling this tank and cycling my last one is that the last time I tried cycling an aquarium, I had a shrimp/planted tank substrate so perhaps that gave more porous surfaces for bacteria to grow on. I didn't think that would be necessary though, especially with an extra sponge that could help nitrite colonize, but I'm wondering if it's maybe due to my area's very hard water? Please help if you can! I'm anxious to get my next aquarium going. 😭
  11. Hi all I am relatively new to the aquarium hobby. Currently I have a 75 gallon tank with an aquatic turtle in it that I have managed to do great with, but turtles are heartier than fish and I didn't need to worry about cycling the water too much in the beginning My question today deals with a new tank that I just started 9 days ago. It is a 40g breeder and there is no fish in it yet as it is not cycled. My setup is as follows: -Crushed coral substrate -2x sponge filter with fluval air pump (both had been used in previous tanks, but were not taken directly from one tank to another so IDK if they had any live bacteria when I started using them). -fluval nano wave maker -seachem tidal 55 filter with seachem matrix and fluval peat (to lower the PH because of the crushed coral substrate) -6x aquarium co-op easy planters with some various java fern and amazon sword. -A small piece of driftwood for lowering PH -Fluval Plant light 3.0, 36 inch Products I have used -Seachem flourish tabs under each plant -seachem flourish (realized later this may not be the best for the plants I am using) -fluval plant care iron+ -aquavitro seed bacteria -seachem prime for dichlorination I have been adding pinches of fish food for around 4 or 5 days trying to get some ammonia in the water. I have also taken a big lava rock and a few small live plants and easy planters from my other tank in an effort to speed up the cycling process. My water readings currently are as follows: (taken using API master test kit) Water temp: around 77 PH: Around 7.6 ammonia: Around .25 or .5 PPM Nitrites and Nitrates: basically none yet. I understand the basics of wanting to see a spike in ammonia and then some nitrites and nitrates, but none of my readings have moved in the past 3 or 4 days. I am just wondering if I am doing something wrong or if I just need to be more patient. My eventual goal for this tank is to have various types of guppies in it and I am getting a little impatient waiting for the tank to cycle. A basic picture of the tank is attached.
  12. Hi so I have had my tank setup for 4 days now I used the fritz turbo start and fishless fuel to help boost the cycle and here on day 4 i am seeing a bit of nitrites, my ammonia levels are going down, and i have been seeing a bit of nitrate surprisingly. I have a 5 gallon with a hygger heater my tank fluctuates between 78-80 degrees and I have an aquariumcoop nano sponge filter with eco complete as my substrate I have a nice handful of species of plants; crypts, anubias, bacopa, java fern but recently my ph levels have been rising I started off with 7.4 on the high range of the api water test kit and within 2 days it has gone up to 7.8 I have 0 livestock in my tank but I plan on stocking my tank with a betta and 2 or 3 amano shrimp is there anything i should be concerned about adjusting? thankyou!
  13. Hi! I am just beginning to partake in the hobby yayy, anyway fishless cycling I have purchased the turbo-start and the fishless fuel by fritz My plants just came in and I have just set up my tank yesterday I have a 5 gallon with eco-complete as my substrate, spiderwood, grey mountain stone, and a variety of plants java moss, monte carlo, crypts, bacopa, etc. also some fun floating plants. I dosed my tank yesterday with the fishless fuel to reach 2ppm of ammonia and added in 4ml of the turbo start. Tested everything and on day 1 i have a ph of 7.6 my nitrite and nitrate levels were zero and my ammonia was at 2ppm. Today the plant melt began ( hooray ) things are happenings. Tested everything today after completing a water change because my wood released lots of tannins which lowered my ph a little to low down to 6 so did a 50% water change and I suprisingly had .25 ppm of nitrite I tested this several times and kept getting .25. Called my local fish shop and they recommended I dose again so I did 2 ppm of ammonia but this time only 2 ml of the turbo start. Im not sure where to go next I am seeing little progress which is great but yet, I still have no clue what I am doing lol anything will be very appreciated
  14. Day 15 of my fishless cycle, and my tank had turned into a swamp. The water is approaching opaque, and my frogbit is getting fried. There is a brown film on the glass, filter, and heater. Ammonia is still pretty high. Is this something I should let run it’s course, or should I clean it and start the cycle over? I’ve never had a tank look like this while cycling. Any input/advice is appreciated. This is going to be my bettas new home when it’s ready.
  15. Just a celebration!!!! We were getting so frustrated with our 10 Gallon Tall Corner tank, we got the ammonia down, but seemed like forever and our nitrites would not drop for anything!! We did a few 25% changes to help the fish, and then out of frustration of no changes, we decided to just leave everything alone. Dosed with prime every 48 hours as needed after testing. Then one morning we did a test and the nitrites were pure blue as they should be, and nitrates were 5ppm. That was on June 28. We added more fish and they are all doing well. 1 day after adding a few new fish, all of sudden we see babies. LOL And now the obsession has begun! We are now in the process of getting a new 36 gallon tank set up. We are going all out, currently building our own hardscape and using all live plants in that one. It's been a process but will be so worth it. Our rock scape is really coming together. Will be doing a more fishless type cycle with established tank items. And will be basing our fish decisions around the finished scape. Have a few ideas for a cool community tank. We currently have 3 platies (1 male, 2 female) , 5 mollies (1 male, 2 females) (2 are tiny babies) , albino bristlenose pleco, and 3 blue velvet shrimp ( I think, we had 9, but we only ever see 3 around the tank, others may not have made it). **The fish are still on the smaller end, so they are all doing well in the current home, Also have a java fern attached to driftwood that is sprouting from leaves like crazy, an amazon sword that has become fuller looking, scarlett temple and a little frogbit on the top as well. The mollies and the pleco will get moved to the 36 gallon once it's ready. That one will go a bit faster as we now have some established tank items to use. Our local fish store will also be giving us some items for filter to help get a cycle building quicker. YAY For Victories!!
  16. Hello, first time poster. Sorry if my query has been answered in different ways. Either way, it would be nice to get some feedback from you kind folks. I'm so appreciative of all the knowledge in this forum. My 20 gallon tank has been running since late April 2021, so about 2+ months. My last tanks suffered a tragic death from BAD black beard algae (BBBA). It was also located outside in the patio with a goldfish and a hillstream loach. Unfortunately, both passed after a water change. Sorry for being long-winded. As a result, I am highly afraid of having an algae problem. As I heard, having lots of plants would help my tank “cycled”. Here is the list current in my tank: Slow growing: Amazon Sword Red Rubin, Java Fern, Annubias golden Fast growing: Water lettuce, red root floater, Salvinia Natans, water sprite, red tiger lotus, Vallisneria Maintaining/not dead: Ludwigia Repens, Cryptocoryne Walkeri, dwarf hair grass, Christmas moss Deceased/melt: Bacopa Caroliniana, Water Wisteria I have high pH in my tap water above 8. Last test for GH = 8 and KH =9. I also put Seachem Equilibrium in the water bucket before any water change and added a small wonder shell recently to try to raise the KH. My tank has a medium size sponge filter and a OASE Biomaster Thermo 350 filter. My light is a Finnex Stingray Aquarium LED light for 7 hours a day on a timer. My stockings are 10 ember tetra, 3 Otocinclus, cherry and amano shrimps, nerite snails and one Japanese trapdoor snail. For some reason, I can’t seem to have a stable water condition (0.25 ppm ammonia occasionally) and there has been death to 2 Otocinculus, 1 trapdoor snail and 1 cherry shrimp. Every time it is devastating. My local fish store suggested using ROI water, but it seems like a big investment and inconvenience as I live in an apartment. As the title mentioned, my slow growing plants are not doing so well. I have lost the majority of my Amazon swords from melting and yellowing. My Java fern has spots and some leaves are turning transparent. Similar nutrient deficiency issue with the Annubias. After having 5 ppm nitrate since May, I have not registered any nitrate. However, my fast growing plants seem to be doing fine. I put one cap of Seachem Flourish Advance every night and started double dosing (4 pumps) easy green fertilizer three times a week since last week. However, there is no detectable change yet. I have considered installing CO2 injection. But I worried about algae. Basically, I have some surface green spot algae, but I think my snails took care of them. I am almost at a point where I prefer to cover the area under the floating plants with rocks since my Amazon sword kept melting. And I removed most of the floating plants recently in hope to provide more light. I am really looking forward to getting more fish, but if my tank is not stable, the additional bio-load might cause algae and/or fish death. Does anyone have any suggestions of medium growing plants that I can try? Should I get better light? CO2 injection? Any suggestion to keep my slower growing plants healthy and having more stable water condition would be great! Thank you.
  17. Have anyone experienced bad smell on fritz zyme 7, like rotten eggs or something, i don't want to kill my fish. I want to add it for a boost because I finally got my endlers on line and by the way they where all dead unfortunately. So im sticking to local fish store.
  18. I started cycling my tank 11 days ago. It’s fishless but I did add ammonia (started at 2ppm) and api quick start. Tank is 37g. Ph is 7.6. Yesterday I went to a fish store and purchased a fish but won’t be getting him until this is cycled. While I was there the guy gave me about half a gallon of water from one of his tanks that he squeezed out his sponge filter into and it was super dirty so I assume it grabbed a bunch of stuff to help. I poured it into my tank. How long do you think I should be seeing changes for the cycle? I did it last night and my ammonia now looks like it’s at 1ppm but idk if it’s like that because I added some water or not but nitrites is 0. I did nitrates for the heck of it and I think it’s a little orange? It’s strange the tube looks orange but when I pick it up and look through it in the sunlight it’s yellow but a tad more yellowy orange than the 0 level yellow if that makes sense lol (using api test kit)
  19. Morning from rainy Ontario. Question about planting in a new set up. I have only been doing live plants for about a year. WHY did I wait so long!!! Anyway, back to question. When I started with plants I already had a very well established tank with lots of fish, bacteria, snails ect... Now I am wanting to season my new tanks with plants from the get go. I have seen videos where people put in substrate, few inches of water, decor and than 🪴. They play around and make it look pretty and than at the rest of their water. Is would make set up much easier as I am sort amd arms just barely reach the bottom of the tank as is, but is it the correct way? Thoughts, comments and suggestions greatly appreciated! 🙂
  20. I started working at a local fish store recently (yay!) and I’m finding myself struggling with explaining the nitrogen cycle to newbies. I feel like I tend to over explain things and intimidate/confuse people, so I’m trying to come up with a simple-ish explanation and diagram to guide the conversation. This is a very rough draft, and I need input before I finalize the design and actually make it look artsy and nice. I am usually a good salesperson, but I feel like I’m already failing at this job because people’s eyes glaze over when I begin to talk about the components of aquarium ecosystems and water quality and whatnot. Is this normal? I feel like this is vital information for the wellbeing of an animal and I find it really unnerving that people seem to not care. Any advice about this would be welcome, my confidence in my position has taken a bit of a hit because of the interactions I’ve had recently. Copy/paste of text portion for easy editing: Beneficial “nitrifying” bacteria grows on all surfaces in your aquarium where water flows, including decorations, substrate, plants, and most importantly: filter media. Porous media such as sponge and ceramic make excellent homes for these beneficial bacteria, which convert toxic ammonia and nitrite to much less toxic nitrate. These bacteria colonies take time to grow in a new tank, from 3 to 8 weeks, and this initial bacteria development is known as “cycling a tank.” High nitrate levels can still harm fish, which is why water changes and/or live plants are essential to keeping a healthy tank. Testing your water regularly to keep track of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels can help you understand your tank’s ecosystem so you can keep your fish healthy and happy! Always wash dirty filter media in used tank water. Chlorine from tap water can kill your beneficial bacteria and may cause your tank to “crash.” A crash happens when there isn’t enough bacteria present to convert ammonia and nitrite, so the concentration of these toxic compounds rises to harmful levels. (Side note I just realized I need to write out “carbon dioxide” next to CO2 for consistency, I’m sure that’s not the only mistake I’ve made)
  21. How long does a tank need to become seasoned with pre-cycled filter media?
  22. Hey everyone question I have four Cory’s in my 20 G High aquarium and want to add more fish and I want endless, how many can I put in my tank at once, and by the way they sale them by 10 fish, Is that ok
  23. So I have a 40 breeder I need to get started ASAP for I can get fish out of a 10 so I can put my betta in there but I just got it today so is there any methods one how to get it safe fast
  24. Good morning everyone, A week ago yesterday, I set up my 10 gallon tank. It has fluval stratum, rough grain inert sand, and four different types of plants. I used quick start and stress coat and dosed with ammonia appropriately. Yesterday, I did a small water change about a gallon of water. There's plenty of biofilm in there. I don't have any livestock yet. Here is this morning's test strip. Is my tank cycled or am I missing something? Thank you! Shirl
  25. My tank finally cycled 😀. and my albinos corydoras and nerite snail are still alive, thanks to all that help me with there devise. now cant diced what other fish to add lol. but i have a 5.5 Aqueon tank to cycle, can i use different BB or brand. the reason i ask is because my main tank was cycle with fritz zime 7 but i have a different the tetra safe start would that be a problem? thanks
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