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  1. I'm still cycling my 20G H aquarium since 3 week ago. I'm in my 4th week. I used fritz zyme 7 beneficial bacteria, and put fish flake to help start the cycle and I haven't gotten no reading of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate. so what am I doing wrong? the tank is starting to get cover of white sluff I don't know what that is. should I do a partial or what to do about no readings. any suggestions.
  2. Greetings. It was suggested to me to bring my question here. I've been reading and researching for over a year and haven't come up with any solutions. I am the caretaker of two beautiful male Bettas. To preface my question, I got the two Bettas on February 14th of 2020. When I saw them, I knew I HAD to have them, so they were given 5.5 gallon uncycled tanks, and I assumed I would be able to do a fish-in cycle. After all, it's only one little fish, right? A year and two months later, I have had no luck. Don 't worry.....they are healthy and happy. I however am not. Six weeks ago, I started a new 5.5 gallon tank with the intent to do a fishless cycle and give them a temporary home (one at a time) until I could cycle their tanks properly. In the new tank, I have two sponge filters with air stone modification and gravel substrate. It's been kept at a pH of 7.4, a temperature of 79 degrees F, ammonia at 2.0 ppm using Fritz Fishless Fuel and a healthy dose of Fritz Zyme 7. It's my understanding, these should be ideal conditions for a cycle to develop. But, there is still no hint of cycling activity. I am frustrated beyond belief. I use tap water, which has a pH of 8.4, a GH of at least 180, a KH between 40-60. I use API pH Down to bring the pH down to near neutral. I use API Betta Water Conditioner for dechlorination. I've even used chlorine test strips to verify that it is working. It shows there is chorine present, but there is near zero "free" chlorine. I am at a complete loss as to understand what could be preventing a cycle. Oh....I use an API Master Test kit. One thing I need to mention....At the time I started the new tank, my mother had an "air scrubber" installed in our HVAC system. Besides UV, it claims to create "sanitizing ions" and hydro peroxides. You can smell them when you enter the house from outside. The odor is not nearly as strong in the basement where my aquariums are, but I am concerned it might be having an adverse effect. Does anyone else use one of these air scrubbers?
  3. I'm into week two of cycling a 29 gal. I'm using a sponge filter and a ziss bio filter. Can anyone tell me where I'm at with the cycle?
  4. I'm in the process of setting up my 180 gallon freshwater tank from custom aquariums but I'm not quite there. I filled it to see if there were any leaks in my plumbing. One of my threaded pipes was sweating, so I emptied it enough to fix that problem and refilled it. It's not in its final place because I still have some electrical work to do. Right now, I have it set up with the heater on and the sump pumps running. I'm floating my driftwood so that I can scape it without worrying about the wood floating away. I will have to empty the tank almost completely in order to move it into its final place and scape it. That brings me to my question. Would you recommend I start cycling the filter now so that I can get a jump start on things, or would you wait until the substrate is in place? If I do a fish in cycle, I will have to remove the fish before I scape it. In a 180, that might be hard to do. I have a full bottle of TSS, but I'm reading on various forums that it is more meant for slow rise of ammonia like you would see with a fish in cycle. I could order some Dr. Tim's One & Only and do an ammonia cycle, or I could wait. I've been working on this project for a while and I'm starting to get antsy. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Soooo what's the deal with using river water/rocks, driftwood, debris, silt, media for cycling??...I live on a nice river here in northern California.. Full of trout and a type of bluegill, also two fatty salmon runs a year and huge steelies! The water is good and clean. Been drinking it 30years..I waz at the river, fishing and waiting on my new 20gallon to cycle (done the normal way)and got to thinking...anyway I'm new so any info would be great stay healthy. Cw
  6. This Saturday I will be 4 weeks into my fishless cycle (fresh water; 3 gallons). Just looking for some input. My ammonia is about .25ppm, nitrite is 5.0 and nitrates 20ppm. Should I consider a partial water change, or keep letting it do it's thing. Thanks in advance.
  7. I'm going to be setting up a new tank for Cichlids, which I've never had. Can I take the filter material out my HOB from my regular community tank and put it in the new HOB of the new tank for the good bacteria? I know the PH levels are different for Cichlids, but I just wanted to make sure I am transferring the correct beneficial bacteria.
  8. Hi I didn’t fully cycle my 125L tank it’s planted I only left it 7 days . How often should I check water pramiters it’s stocked with 24 juveniles
  9. Hi, I have a 29 gallon tank that I am going to be cycling soon. I did a bunch of research on Fritzzyme 7 and turbo start but no store around me carries it and a lot of reviews I read said the BB was dead because it wasn’t shipped/packaged/ stored properly. So today I went to my LFS and asked the worker if I could possibly get some filter media from one of her established healthy tanks to speed up the cycling process. She told me I could but even with the cycled media it would still take 6-8 weeks to fully cycle. Is this true because it completely contradicts all my research if it is. Also, after adding the cycled media in my uncycled tank do I need to add ammonia to the tank so the BB doesn’t die? And if so what form of ammonia should I use? I’m wanting to do a fishless cycle. Thank you!
  10. Set up a Fluval Flex 9 on Jan 6th. I added a bottle of Tetra SafeStart Plus that afternoon. Tap water with API conditioner. Substrate is SeaChem Flourite Black. That evening, I added plants, 2 cherry shrimp, 5 Celestial Pearl Danio, and a dwarf gourami. Testing with API Master Freshwater kit. After 1 week, I was still not showing any signs of nitrites or nitrates. Ammonia was .5-1PPM. So I added API Quick Start to help and also a handful of gravel from a friend's tank. Started adding SeaChem Stability around week 3 and been adding it daily since. There's like 7 or so root tabs in the substrate. Also weekly squirt of Easy Green. Well today is week 6 and still same parameters. Doing weekly water changes. Typically about 20-25% except for about the 3rd week which was 30% or so. I test the water after doing the changes. Ammonia .5-1 PPM Nitrites and nitrates 0 First day, Jan 6th. Week 1 Week 3 1/27. I did about a 30% water change. 1/28 Lost both cherry shrimp 1/29 Lost 2 CPD. Dont know if they died in the water or died when they got stuck on the intake vents. One was on the bottom vent. Other on top. Started adding SeaChem Stability Week 4 Week 5 Week 6
  11. I performed a large water change last night (I needed to move the tank so I emptied like 70% of it) and I am checking this following morning. This tank is covered in bladder snails and their thousands of eggs and is hopefully ready for a couple of puffers.
  12. If it ain't broke don't fix it ... Anyway yesterday morning I decided to fiddle with my CO2 and accidentally dumped some into the tank. CO2 is back to where it was ... But since then I have noticed two things, unrelated, but the tank is not the same. 18 Danios (mix of Zebra and Kyathit) are now hiding. They are usually very active, swimming through all the terrain ... in the past 24 hours only about 6 came out to feed. They are not in the sump, but must be hiding down in the plants and rocks. Very unusual for Danios not to come out in a frenzy for feeding. But I've tried two feedings and very litter reaction, and at this moment, I cannot find any of them. However, the 10 Corys and 2 Plecos are active. There is a group of white egg looking things on my glass. See pic. Just noticed this today while looking for the Danios.
  13. Are there best ways to cycle a larger tank using a tank half as small? I read that I can use my new filter side by side with my old one to start seeding. I can take a rock from my tank and transfer it to the new tank. Maybe put in some of my sand from the 29 into the 60. The goal is to cycle my tank as fast as possible so I can purchase my rope fish before they go out of stock again. I would appreciate any advice!
  14. What a tank is cycling will nitrite levels go up? tested my tank today and levels were at .50ppm nitrate is at 5.0ppm is the tank cycling and should I change water...
  15. Hey guys! So I’ve had my 20 gal long tank since Feb. 7 of this year and everything was cycling well with some semi-established media. Then on March 1 I found a decaying cockroach in one of my tank decorations. Since removing the roach and decoration I have done two massive water changes and subsequent ones as needed to lower the off the charts ammonia. However, even when I get it down to 0 ppm it climbs back up on its own. Before all of this I already had some Nitrites and Nitrates and then the cycle stalled. Two days ago my Nitrites finally converted into Nitrates but the ammonia is not budging. Thank you for any help. If you need more info from me let me know.
  16. Ultimate goal for 120 gal planted was to eventually achieve water quality for discus w/ temp 82 degrees. Starting tap water very soft. Thought, after watching multiple videos, that i needed to put some crushed coral beneath my gravel as a substrate (1 "). Now 7 weeks after planting my aquascape with 2 large pieces of drift wood, lots of tannis!, lots of plants that are growing well, and good lighting, my ph is 8.2 +, GH & KH 300. Corey says just look at plants and algae (life) and not at numbers. Do i need to start over, remove the crushed coral layer, and put just gravel? Or should i sit tight, feed my plants easy green and just wait? (Ammonia 0.50, nitrites 0, nitrates 0). No live things yet except hitchhicker snails from plants orders). Hate to start over but would really like to try for discus some day. (and time is short as I am 74!). HELP!
  17. Hi everybody, I am about a week and half into cycling my new tank and I am seeing some growth of an orange brownish algae. I just want to get some feed back that this is what I think it is and that it is Diatoms. I guess my question is do I siphon it off the wood and plants that it is growing on or leave it and continue to monitor things through the cycle. (It is exciting to see the growth in the tank even if it isnt the prettiest thing to look at) 🤣 But I am wondering do they go away after the cycle is complete or do I just remove them manually? I am dosing with Easy Green, and I dose with Easy Iron once a week. I also have easy carbon but I have not dosed with that yet. Thank you for your help! I have been learning alot as I go throw the process and learn from you all!
  18. I have a 30 gallon tank with 8 fish: 4 small goldfish, 3 corydoras, 1 bristle nose pleco. I started this tank about 6 weeks ago but being of the older generation I started it as I always started my tanks 20 years ago, not knowing about the biological cycle. As soon as I found the Aquarium Co-op YouTube channel and this forum I saw the value of this method of good bacteria 😇 against evil bacteria 😈. I have optimized my Aqueon20 hob filter with carbon infused pad and coarse sponge media with a bit of fine sponge media at the spillway and a pre-filter intake sponge. This past week I also added the medium size coarse sponge filter in the opposite corner from the hob. Water is so nice and clear and ammonia levels are finally stable. I still need to do water changes because, well, goldfish. So my questions are: 1. Should I wash out the filters (in the used aquarium water) every water change or wait until there is gunk showing up on them? 2. Will rinsing them to often lose the good bacteria? (I usually do a water change once a week). 3. Does it harm the good bacteria on the glass if I wipe it weekly with my magnetic glass cleaner? My tank is not a planted tank but I am considering it for maybe down the road. Also the 4 goldfish will be re-homed to my neighbor’s pond as soon as they grow a little more. Then my tank will be a tropical only tank. Sorry this is so long, TIA for your help.😊
  19. Hi all, I am not totally sure if it's time but here are some details. My tank has been running since Feb 28 and I have seen the water parameters go through a number of changes, particularly in the last week. The images included are my results from last Friday and today. I have tested my waterultiple times in between and I have seen a spike and dip in ammonia, and then a spike and dip of nitrite. No big spike in nitrates BUT is there a chance to that has something to do with all of the plants that I have that appear to be thriving? Does this all mean that I am ready to bring fish into my tank?
  20. Hi I have a question for you. I see nitrite on the rise. Do I let it rise and should it drop off? also how much time do I wait? tetra test trip reading ph- 7.0 kh - between 80/120 gh - 75 nitrite -2.0 nitrate - 20
  21. Hi everyone! We thought our new tank was cycled. In any case, here we are! LOL... One fish was added on 3/8. The water was cloudy, so we changed 20% of the water on 3/14. (Adding our Aqueon water conditioner, API StressZyme+, and API Aquarium Salt) We definitely know now we were overfeeding our juvenile American Cichlid, which did not help!! 😛 Water hazy again, so tested parameters. Ammonia is at 1.0, with zero Nitrates and zero Nitrates. PH looks between 7.0 and 7.2 Naturally, we don't mind doing whatever it takes, but we would hate to mess up the process by prematurely doing another water change. Should we go ahead and do another water change since there is Ammonia at but no Nitrates or Nitrites?
  22. Two weeks ago (or so) I have finished to cycle the 110gl tank, drained all old water out and replaced with fresh water, let it sit for few days before I transferred the fish. Few days ago the water became cloudy white. The only reason that I could think off are the few leaf that I let to rot (wanted the potential nutrients go into the water). I have boiled all wood that I could and kept the rest in heavily salted water for 3 months in order to sterilize them, the only piece of wood that wasn't treated is the root. Is it possible that the fungus on the root causes the water to cloud? Even if it is not, how can I get rid of it? Thanks
  23. I set up my 20 gallon long one week ago. I put in seven plants, a sponge filter from my other tank, and have been putting Stability every day. Tested the water today and ammonia is at 4 and nitrite is at 1-2. Plants are super happy with new leaves and runners. It's obviously not ready for fish, but I found a bladder snail today in there and there is plenty for it to eat with biofilm and possible algae. Question 1: Should I do a water change at this point to get ammonia and nitrite down? Things are high because the gravel I used came from an old tank that had lots of algea. It had been sitting dry for 6 years but I couldn't get every little piece out before putting it in the tank. Question 2: I was going to get a nerite snail. I'm assuming they aren't as hardy as the bladder snails? Question 3: How long do I have before I have a crazy number of bladder snails? Debating taking it out now before things get out of hand, but I really want the help cleaning things up before I could get the nerite snail.
  24. What I mean by that is when can I add fish after decor/plants from an established tank is added? And how long does it take for bacteria to colonize new surfaces?
  25. I setup a a new 15 flex that is heavily planted. Moved most of the plants and rocks, wood from an old mature balanced tank. Moved the sponges and ceramic media from same tank. Only new thing in tank is substrate. This tank should be essentially cycled right away correct? I can add lifestock?
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