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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Congratulations! That's amazing. Please be sure to show them off once they are colored up for you 🙂 .
  2. nabokovfan87
    cc @TeeJay You have the moss in there so that's 1/4 of the battle right there! I would propagate that moss and glue some onto the top of the PVC tubes. This gives the corydoras a few locations for eggs. One thing you're sort of missing in the tank is that you don't really have cover on the substrate. Think of it as the "if you build it, they will come" mindset. You need to have a piece of wood, cover, a place to tell the adults that the fry will survive! Rocks on the floor of the tank with moss attached to them is my preferred route. If this was my set of corydoras, this is what I would do.... A. Get 2-4 decent pieces of wood or rock for the bottom of the tank. B. Cut the moss you have so that you're using about half of the portion you have floating. Use scissors and cut that to 1/8-1/4" segments and then glue that to rocks, wood, and your PVC. Once that grows out in about 3-6 weeks you will have a really nice surface for the fish. C. At this point then you condition them. Feed them good food 2x a day. Repashy overnight 4-5 times a week is a great method to condition your corydoras to breed. You would use a food like community blend, bottom scratcher, or spawn and grow to give them that protein they want to grow the eggs and trigger that behavior.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Probably due to missing something. I know that seems foolishly simplistic, but what I mean is that the plant is trying to grow, cannot do so because it's missing some piece of the puzzle. Usually this is going to be carbon, light, or nutrients. Most stems will do well as long as they don't have algae on them. Were you seeing any specific deficiency signs? Were you dosing in root tabs or anything to target feed them? Are they new and simply melted right away in your water or was this a slow progression? (Slow progression meaning, deficiency of some kind and the plant tried to use old growth to feed new growth) I wish I had some good resources, but I don't have one to pass along, unfortunately. My best advice would be to look on amazon for actual literature guides and books for aquatic plants. I usually give things 2-3 weeks before making a secondary tweak. Sometimes it's really, really obvious you turned the knob the wrong way and that is easy to reverse that change. (example for me being the light was too high and that was noticeable after 3-5 days)
  4. nabokovfan87
    Awesome news 🙂
  5. nabokovfan87

    Panda help!

    nabokovfan87 replied to Helena's topic in Diseases

    Seems to be ok. Temp can go down if that's acceptable, depends on what else is in the tank. Understood, I would generally use a bucket or something external to the tank in future. Even a big piece of plastic tupperware, a bin, anything will work that you have. Being clear is a plus, but that's not required. Do you have filtration going to the jug? I'm not sure how the fish is getting water or air? Given where the fish is now, unfortunately I don't think it will survive treatment. It is a possibility that it could get through and bounce back, but given everything going on I would lean towards euthanizing the fish. Being on it's side is usually a pretty severe sign and most fish don't recover from that. If the fish doesn't have an airstone, it needs one as well as fresh water. One of the main causes of fin rot is going to be poor water quality, ammonia burn, and poor water quality. We need to make sure this one has a comfortable place to try to recover, has air and clean water at a minimum. If you don't have any way to QT the fish, or if you are out of options as far as meds go, then I would again suggest euthanasia so that the fish is no longer suffering. I understand meds can be expensive, aquarium salt is generally very cheap. Having 2-3 items on hand can save a lot of your investment in fish. Just something to keep in mind and hopefully you're able to have some stuff on hand in case you run into any future issues. I apologize for the unfortunate news, I understand what you're going through and you have my sympathy.
  6. nabokovfan87

    Panda help!

    nabokovfan87 replied to Helena's topic in Diseases

    I would do a few things. Is this fish isolated or in the tank with the other fish? @Cinnebuns has some of the long fin pandas. There is also the Panda Appreciation Society here so we have a lot of fun and love our pandas here! This little one looks really emaciated, which is almost always a sign of internal issues, typically parasites preventing the fish from getting nutrients from the food and it slowly dies over time. Secondly you might be dealing with fungal or fin rot issues. If the tuft looks like cotton, then it's likely a fungal infection, but if it appears like fin rot you'd want to use something like kanaplex to treat the fish. Once we have more information we can proceed with advice on course of treatment. What meds do you have on hand, have you done any already? Things that would be beneficial to order and have on hand now: -Kanaplex -Aquarium Salt -Jungle Fizz tabs (or Ich-X) -Paracleanse or General Cure (enough for 3 full treatments) Do you see any redness on the belly? Scratches? This is likely damage prior to your care and the fish hasn't been able to recover. Because the fish itself was put in with the entire tank (If it hasn't been held in QT the entire time) then I would opt to treat the entire tank and all of the fish in question at this time. Finally, what food are you typically feeding, temperature, and what are the rest of your tank parameters?
  7. nabokovfan87
    May have discovered something.... Males have more of a circle shape on the black spot on their tail, females seem to have more of an oval? Might be a size thing, females get bigger, but that may or may not hold true for younger fish as well. What do you think?
  8. nabokovfan87
    Nope. Not touching the 75 yet.
  9. nabokovfan87
    If you would like a fun / interesting shark to learn about by all means I can send you one to research! That is really awesome that your professor / teacher is letting you skew the line a bit. Some teachers just sense passion and know the results in the work will translate well there. It's an interesting species because most of them in the wild aren't around, maybe they are, maybe they aren't.... Which is an interesting point to research. Here's a great article as well, I'll toss it in that other thread, but it has some great information and sketches. https://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/
  10. nabokovfan87
    Why am I ORD! Awesome stuff. Those two pups at old nave are too adorable.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Just imagine the little itch right in the center of your back. That's all it was doing!
  12. nabokovfan87
    I would always opt for (even a single 75) side mounted compared to one pushing water front to back on a long tank. Even on a 40B I'd probably run two HoBs. I tend to churn / circulate my tanks really well, either using ziss bubble bio, airstones, or sponges in addition to other filters. When I started my 75 I didn't want to cut the rim, so I ran to the shop and got an AC110. I wasn't satisfied and was needless to say pretty irritated with the plastics quality (much much better on the 110) compared to the 30, 50, 70 boxes. The lid was nicer, everything was night and day nicer. The foam itself was so massive that even with a high pressure faucet or hose it was really difficult to clean the interior section of gunk. Every time I turned the HoB off, could never get it to run.... so those two issues is why I opted for a single Tidal over the Aquaclear. But.... YES, I would recommend side mount, running multiple, or running additional air on the other side of the tank in your efforts to get flow across the tank. Any HoB that you can't basically mount in the middle of the tank is going to push the flow to one side or one half of the tank. I'll grab a diagram and explain, but basically this impacts food, dosing chemicals, heat, co2, and circulation itself. Single Tidal 75 (AC's won't fit without modifying rim) You can picture here, wherever you put this HoB if it's not on the side you're either going to be limiting the input or output's ability to cover the full width of the tank. This is where having a spraybar really helps because you lengthen that output across the tank or you can easily put it on the side and blow the water across the length of the tank! In the example below, imagine you're feeding on the right corner, generally speaking you're always going to have mulm and detritus on that half of the tank and you're going to end up focusing on siphoning that half of the tank as a priority. Single 110 (AC or Tidal) Here we have "more flow" but the actual turnover doesn't really physically work any better. You're still pushing the output or input to one section, creating that low flow area on the opposing sidewall of the tank. Dual 75 or Dual 110: (75 shown here in terms of scale, but either works) In this setup, I placed both my heaters under each of the HoBs. This is also where fish like hillstream loaches, plecos, and shrimp love to sit. They love that flow in that area and you see a much cleaner tank because you don't have as many dead spots. Setup a smaller scale example, even with a 10G QT tub or something. Front to back vs. side mounted is night and day. I wish lids and things were made to give us the choice. I'd side mount everything.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Yep. it's also something where I've seen it as a "color morph" of some rainbow sharks and labelled as a few different things. Here is a great article about the species. https://www.amazonasmagazine.com/2015/02/17/the-reticulated-flying-fox-an-underappreciated-algae-eater-from-thailand/ Of course, always mislabelled or confused on what to really call these ones. They are from the same family and similar size / care. It looks to me like a version or form of a RTBS / Rainbow shark. You can see the same black dot on the tail. This is a very stressed big box store photo on their website for the RTBS. Again, very similar marking on the tail and you can see this in person on most of them. When they get older the black is more of a grey (similar to that top right photo of the rainbow shark) EDIT: Found this again. It's always difficult to find when I need it! This is what I used to ID fish in the store. It goes into detail about upper / lower barbels and mouth shape between the CAE and other species that are commonly mislabelled. https://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/
  14. nabokovfan87
    Oh yeah, 100%. Those used to be sold as decorative garden rock and then Bentley made a video and ruined it for everyone 😂 Used to be able to get a massive 40 lb box, shipped to the house for free for pretty much $20-30 depending on variety. That is also Lifegard Aquatics but is a killer deal if you can find it. I will very likely spend some time if / when I can hunting that down. I've also looking into trying to order directly from them, but alas wasn't able to when I was searching at that time.
  15. nabokovfan87
    I emailed the seller and this is what they said when I had asked a pretty generic / broad question. I was fully expecting to get a response about how they have a full system and change more water than any home hobbyist reasonably could. Interestingly.... and this might highlight some issues others have had with acclimation. We don't really do water changes per se. Because we ship the animals in the water from their holding tanks, we are constantly adding water to the tanks. The opinions on how much and how often in a home tank varies even with our staff. Each person seems to find a method that works for them. Should be in stock during some period next week, so I'll keep an eye out there. Hopefully get things going. 😂 I was looking at wood this week, might've found another piece for her.
  16. nabokovfan87
    I don't, but wingspan is a pretty fun little game. Also on your phone. Very calming little game.
  17. nabokovfan87
    I'm totally going to have to play that frog for the pups. That is just too much! 😂
  18. nabokovfan87
    Bentley has some. I believe it's either sold as a variant of flying fox or it's a "reticulated SAE" Definitely not a CAE though and the mouth shape is moreso like an SAE or another cyprinidae species. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyprinidae they usually have upper and lower barbels, mouth that points down and designed to graze. CAEs have a different shaped mouth, 2 upper barbels. I really like that cube tank! Especially your initial aquascape with the debris pile in the corner. Feel better, happy to follow along on your adventures. Beautiful tanks and I'm excited to see where you take them!
  19. nabokovfan87
    Be sure to check out my tidal testing thread! I would do 2x 110s honestly. On my 75G tank I was running 2x 75s just because I didn't like the flow pattern of a single tank. The flow was very centralized to one half of the tank except when the filter was side mounted and running across the length of the tank. Second to that, I'd highly recommend having a pump head and a spray bar if you run a single filter. Potentially a canister just to ease that spray bar being in the tank if that makes sense.
  20. nabokovfan87
    ORD already. 😂
  21. nabokovfan87
    Spirulina brine is the go to in my tanks. They go bonkers for it!
  22. nabokovfan87
    @TeeJayh Meet Pat. Pat is pretty fun and awesome. Everyone meet Brad. Brad makes me laugh!
  23. nabokovfan87
    Depending what water you have... I'd be eyeballing the "pure red" caradina or the Sakura Neo's in addition to the quality and pattern on the blue velvet and blue tigers. Blue tiger has to be insanely rare.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Good point @Fish Folk Could also be indicative of chloramines and not actually ammonia.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Definitely on the radar. Many thanks!
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