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About Me

  1. I currently have two threads for both of my aquariums, but I've been thinking that its time to merge the two threads together My current tanks are my Community tank (40 Gallons): Home to: Angelfish, Cardinal Tetras x5, Bristlenose Pleco, Upside down Catfish x2, Zebra Danios x6. Its Planted with: Anubias Nanna, Crypt Wendetii Red, Red Twist Sword, Hygrophiliia Siamensis 53B, My second tank is my Betta Tank (5 Gallons): Its home to: Hugo the Betta, 5 Neon Tetras, and a new addition (more on that below!) Its planted with: Hygrophillia Compact, Hygrophillia Siamensis, Two Species of Anubias, Buce, Red Melon Sword, Little Side Note: Hugo had gone through some Finrot Treatments, his fins are still growing back. I'm also working on a new tank to go below the community tank, hoping to get some supplies for it and to get it up and running! Today I went driving and drove past a petstore, so naturally I had to stop. I picked up a Nirite Snail for the Betta Tank. I want names for this little guy so comment some suggestions! Also just a quick questions. Does this look like a baby nirite? It seems unlikely due to the fact that they only breed in brackish, but what elese could it be? It moves and has the antennas like a snail too. I picked up the snail to add it in so I'm not sure how it could have come into the tank. Unless it came in in one of my plants, but the last time I added a plant was maybe three weeks, and I'm only noticing it now. So maybe we'll need two names, thats exciting! The baby will probably end up in a different tank soon, 5 gallons is probably too small for two snails.
  2. I rescued a betta off of Kijiji today! I named him DarthVader, but Vader for short! The original owner said "I always forget to feed him, and he's such a pain" But the betta is super cute! It was free too, so I had to take it home. It came with a bowfront 3 gallon aquarium, gravel and decor. I have decided to keep the decor in the aquarium until I can get a light and plants for the aqaurium. I will be switching out the gravel shortly though. I have been wanting to setup a walstad aquarium for the LONGEST time. And after reading through most of diana walstads books I think I'm ready. I want to try and use plants that I already have (hygrophillia compact, salvania, pogostemon stellatus octopus) And then I will be ordering more plants shortly. I am just waiting to purchase that light. I wish I had a window to put it by because then I could use natural light. After getting the aquarium I replaced the gravel and did a 100% waterchange. Then added the substrate (1inch of soil, 1 inch of gravel). I have a temporary light, but its suppeer crap Also please dont tell hugo about the new betta, he cant think I am cheating on him.
  3. Hi all! I’m wanting to have a go at breeding bettas for the first time this weekend (there’s bad weather and a full moon, and I think they’re both ready)! Forenote: my bettas are both young HMPK that are of breeding age. I got the male online, and the female from a breeder (he was already successfully using females from her batch as breeders). I’ve been conditioning for maybe a week or two now, with live and frozen foods. I’ve consumed pretty much all the betta breeding content on the entire internet, from breeding logs on forums and blogs to YouTube to guides to podcasts, and spent probably up to 50 hours learning as much as I can about bettas and how to keep and breed them. But I want to run through my setup with some experienced betta breeders first, so I’ve got the highest chance of success. So first off, I live in Melbourne, Australia, which means I’m currently in a lockdown said to last until next Tuesday. I’m hoping for it to go longer if I do successfully spawn my bettas, because I want to be able to have a good shot at raising the fry well. I’ve heard the first few weeks can be very delicate. Thanks to the lockdown I can carefully monitor my fish when I introduce them to each other. I’m planning on starting an infusoria culture today, and introducing the bettas to each other tomorrow by way of putting the male in the female’s tank with a divider (female will go on the side with more line-of-sight blocks). I’ve been feeding them both a good combination of live and frozen foods over the last couple weeks, and they look very healthy. The female has a massive egg-spot, is very plump, and is showing her ovipositor clearly. She’s a light colour so I can’t see any barring yet. I’m hoping it will develop a little once the male is introduced. From there my hope is to make my way out to the LFS tomorrow or on Friday to pick up some IAL, and to find somewhere to get a styrofoam cup. I’m going to try the somewhat classic setup in a shallow 2.5 gallon tub with an IAL or two, a turned off sponge filter, some moss, a cave and another sort of line of sight block, and half of a styrofoam cup for the bubble nest. I’ll do the usual method of keeping the female in a bottle with holes in it, and then release her when the male has a decent bubble nest. So I would probably introduce them to this container on Friday night, with the hopes of putting them together midday on Saturday and of them breeding on Saturday night during the full moon, with the option of leaving them a couple more days if they don’t breed immediately and aren’t showing any problems. I’m gonna go with kind of neutral parameters, and pump the temperature up to about 80°F (26ish Celsius). Does this sound okay? Is there anything I’m missing? Any extra tips or recommendations from anyone? Let me know if it would be helpful for me to share images of the fish and setup/s. Cheers!
  4. Recently I had to remove the neon tetras in hugo's tank because they were nipping on his fins. Once his fins heal back I may want to put new tank mates in. But I need some help deciding. The tank is a 5 gallon aquarium (fluval spec 5 gallon). And is decentley planted with hornwort that seems to grow every day. The temperture is at a solid 76F. Housing a betta and soon to be moved nirite snail. My Ph in all my tanks sits at the 7.3-7.5 range.
  5. Hey! I really need some help please! My Betta fish developed a cotton-like spot next to his eye over 2 weeks ago but it faded in about 3 or 4 days using only methylene blue. A couple of days later he developed a white spot on top of his head probably due to an injure, and he stopped swimming… Now he remains still on the surface to catch some air and he hasn't eaten in about 2 weeks. I thought he might me suffering from Columnaris or Saprolegnia so I treated him with SulfaPlex and KanaPlex separately but none of them seem to work... So, I added some activated charcoal to my filter to remove the remaining SulfaPlex from the hospital tank. However, the white spot on my Betta's head has grown a little and the cotton-like spot next to his eye has reappeared (picture attached)... I'm almost certain it's fungus, but I don't know how to treat it since the SulfaPlex treatment did really nothing. I've had my fish for about 8 months. I actually rescued him from a previous owner who didn't really care for him. His usual tank is 5 gallons, it's fully cycled and the parameters are fine but right now he's in a 2 gallon hospital tank. I usually do 25 - 40% water changes every week. I had recently added a new plant but my snail ended up eating all its leaves, leaving some sharp branches, which might be where my Betta injured himself. But what I'm most worried about is the fact that he hasn't eaten in a while and that he stays at the top of the tank. I watched the video on the Aquarium Co-Op channel on how to treat fungus with aquarium salt, but do you guys think it’s gonna be ok for my fish? I mean, due to the fact that he might be really weak at this point for not eating in weeks.
  6. What are the chances she'll recover? Put her in hospital tank 2 days ago with aquarium salt. Today she looked worse. Dosed with Imagitarium bacterial remedy. Label doesn't say what it's good for specifically. Gh 60 kh 40 ph 7 no2 0.5 no3 20
  7. A friend just linked me this. I love it!
  8. I have my betta that is alone in his own 5 gallon. I was wondering could I move him to my community tank. In there are mollies and sword tails, Cory's and some cherry barbs.
  9. I have a planted ten gallon with a betta fish, and I've heard that cardinal tetras could make good tank mates for bettas. I've never kept a betta with other fish and I'm, just not sure if I should risk it. I'm also not sure if ten gallons is enough room for a happy school. Should I just get another tank? Any oppinions?
  10. hi, i recently got a pair of captive bred imbelis bettas to breed, however i accidentally received a male imbelis but a female alien blue betta, can they still safely breed? thanks!
  11. Good morning! After yesterday's fiasco of trying to locally find a "fancier tank and stand" for my betta project, and a lot of further searching online and working the budget, I decided to go with a regular tank. I asked myself "why spend all this money and time, and go through all this stress, when the REAL beauty is going to be on the INSIDE of the tank?" So after that mental breakthrough, the ideas came flying and here's what I ordered (and already have some equipment and items): Tank: Aqueon 10 gallon regular glass tank with hinged glass lid and 20 gallon wood stand (20 gallon stand "just in case") Substrate: natural river rock shallow creek (larger, smoother pebbles that I have in my 20L, easier to vacuum than one might at first imagine); larger pebbles for fill-in areas Filter, light, heat: small HOB, mini sponge filter, 50 watt adjustable heater, Aqueon LED light (borrowing from the quarantine tank until the Fluval 3.0 in my size is available from Aquarium Coop - on the wish list!) Ornaments/enrichment: "rock" (and rock) hardscape, ceramic betta log caves (2), flosting log, exercise mirror (for occasional use only), betta leaf bed, almond leaves Plants ordered from Coop: anubias golden, red dwarf lily, cryptocoryne wendtii, anubias barteri. Not going to be afraid to superglue it to the hardscape this time (thanks for the betta video, @Irene!) Plants to get from LFS/chain: red root or frogbit, possibly moss balls. Are there any other floaters (besides water sprite which i have in my 20L and for some reason is not doing very well in there after totally taking over the whole top of my 45 - must like softer water with lower pH) that bettas really like? Food: Hikari Betta Bio-Gold, plus all the live/frozen/freeze dried goodies I have for my existing fish Possible future tankmates: a few nerite snails, maybe some yellow shrimp from my 20L and/or blue bolt shrimp from my 45, if betta seems mellow - if they start getting attacked I'll put them back So now I am just waiting for pickup notification on the tank and stand, and can get started on the setup. Playing around with the scaping, which is my very weak point. Here is the empty, lonely spot where it will go ☹ (took some work to move stuff around) next to my 45-gallon, and one idea for hardscape. Once this tank is set up, I'm also re-setting up the quarantine tank so I can get fish for one of the other tanks at the same time I pick up a betta. Filter media has already been stuffed into existing filters for seeding. I'm loving all the YouTube nerms' videos on betta care in the meantime.
  12. Hi folks 👋🏻 I'm Julia, nice to join your CARE community! This will be a journal of my fish-keeping journey in Canada. Having a weak memory I need a place to keep track of my mistakes (and hopefully successes in future) and forum seems to be a nicer, safer place than Facebook group. Will start documenting my first *stressful* month into the hobby tomorrow and share my story 🐟
  13. Help! I am new to this hobby, so please be kind. I have a betta in a 10 gallon tank and he is doing well, but every plant I put in there dies. I want to give him some tank mates, but I can’t without more live plant hiding places. My tap water is soft and low pH. My tank water has 0 kH, so I add seachem equilibrium just to bring pH up to 6.8 ish and have a kH higher than 0. I also dose easy green to about 20. The only odd thing is that my water in my tank tests off the charts for hardness - like 300. I am only adding 1/4 tsp of equilibrium every week, so that shouldn’t do it. My nitrites are 0. What am I doing wrong? My betta started out in a 3.5 gallon tank with green water - as soon as I took out the plastic plants and put in live plants, the water cleared up and my new plants thrived. When I moved it all to the 10 gallon tank, the plants slowly started dying. I have added Brazilian pennywort, java fern, annubias nana, vallisneria, and two water sprites and it is all dying. Even my java moss is failing to thrive. I did change out the painted rock gravel to natural stone aquarium gravel from petco. Also, you can see the decorations in the tank - it’s my daughter’s fish and she picked those out. Please tell me what I am doing wrong!
  14. Hey! I’m not new to fish keeping, but I’m relatively new to bettas, and as simple as they’re supposed to be, I haven’t had much success so far. My first betta passed away after getting ill with dropsy about 6 months ago, and I’ve finally worked up the guts to get a male and female with the hopes of breeding them (in seperate tanks of course). The male is doing well, but the female (while still being a healthy, wonderful, lively and interactive fish) has been giving me trouble with her eating. She barely eats anything I give her, and can clearly see the food, watching it as it falls to the bottom, and then swimming up to look at me like ‘GIVE ME SOME REAL FOOD!’ Well, I’ve given her real food! Frozen, live, tropical pellets, betta pellets, tropical flake, and soon I’ll try a pea just for the sake of being thorough. And I fasted her for a few days as well, which didn’t totally work. She ate the day her fast finished, but hasn’t properly eaten since. Anyways, I’m awfully confused, so I’m putting this out to you all to see if anyone else has an idea of what’ll work. I posted this in my introduction page and was told to ask the breeder about what food he uses, but he told me he just uses a generic pellet he buys in bulk for all his fish. He’s also about 45 minutes away from me, so I’d prefer not to drive to get food from him, without even knowing if it would work. The only other option I’m thinking of is getting some endlers or guppies to go with her, so there’s no chance of over feeding, but they may act as a dither fish in a sense. She did however attack my single endler that I put with her initially, although I believe that was because she was the only other fish in the tank. How does this sound as an option? Cheers!
  15. So I’m finally getting a tank started for the first time, I was originally going to do a 20 long but since I want a decent variety of fish I decided to go for a 40 breeder instead. I’ve also been researching on YouTube for over a year now (mainly getting info from Aquarium Co-op, Primetime Aquatics, Girl Talks Fish, and MD Fish Tanks). I’m wanting to keep a betta as the centerpiece, rummynose tetras, some kind of live bearer (I’m leaning heavily towards Endlers), either ottos or plecos, and cherry shrimp. I know bettas can sometimes eat shrimp so I’m going to test it’s temperament with a couple of cherries first before getting a bunch for a colony. Also this will be a heavily planted tank (got about $200 worth of plants in my cart on Aquarium Co-op’s website 😅) and I plan on feeding high quality food. In Arizona we have really, really hard water and high PH. I’ve seen it range from 7.6 to 8.2 depending on the city (I don’t know numbers for hardness, I haven’t gotten my test kit in yet). I know I can cut the tap water with RO/distilled water to lower PH/hardness, but I recently saw a video from Prime Time Aquatics where Jason said he’s successfully kept bettas and shrimp in his tap water, which is pretty close to what I have here. In the video he says that keeping stable parameters is a little more important than matching the exact parameters of the fish you’re keeping. So, finally to my question lol. Has anyone here kept bettas or shrimp successfully in harder water with a high PH? If so, did you end up cutting your water, or did you leave it just as it comes out of the tap, and did you notice any issues with the health of the fish or shrimp?
  16. Hi y’all, I’d been keeping track of my betta healing from finrot in my journal but now I think I need help for him. I rescued him from a tank full of male gouramis that had been beating him up, so I wasn’t too surprised when I posted a photo of him and someone pointed out the clear edges to his fins meant he was recovering from finrot. He seemed to be recovering well, his fins were getting colour back and the raggedy edges were disappearing, but yesterday I noticed quite a bit of discolouration in his fins and it’s getting worse. Unfortunately I leave for a week tomorrow morning, and I could only find someone willing to feed the fish but they’re not comfortable treating any with meds. The betta is currently in a 15g planted tank with zebra danios & albino corydoras. He’s very happy in it so I’m not sure if I want to risk stressing him out by moving him into the bare 6g quarantine tank & treating with salt for the week I’m away. Would there be more risk if I keep him in the community tank for another week, and wait to put him into the quarantine tank as soon as I get home? Should I treat the whole community tank with salt and hope for the best? The main issue with the quarantine tank is that it’s new (the old one cracked) and not cycled yet. Any advice would be much appreciated, thank you. Photo from last Friday Temperature: 26 Celsius PH: 7.3 Nitrate: 40 Nitrite: 3 KH: 40 GH: 150
  17. Day 15 of my fishless cycle, and my tank had turned into a swamp. The water is approaching opaque, and my frogbit is getting fried. There is a brown film on the glass, filter, and heater. Ammonia is still pretty high. Is this something I should let run it’s course, or should I clean it and start the cycle over? I’ve never had a tank look like this while cycling. Any input/advice is appreciated. This is going to be my bettas new home when it’s ready.
  18. I lost one of my bettas and am so sad. I'm hoping to figure out the cause so I do not have a repeat. I suspect she/he ate some of the snail algae wafer and got constipated but I could be wrong. She has never had any issues and lives in a 10G heated with two zebra snails. I first noticed 4 days ago that she was acting strange. She wasn't coming for food or moving as much as usual and looked slightly swollen. I figured it was maybe constipation so I didn't feed her and kept an eye. All water parameters came back safe/normal. She gradually got bigger. I tried to give her peas but she wouldn't eat them and kept getting bigger. She never did pine cone so I assume it wasn't dropsy but maybe it just didn't have time to get there. As she wasn't eating peas I moved her into a smaller cycled quarantine tank with epsom salt last night as a last ditch effort following 1tsp/5 gallon ratio. This morning she died. I've attached a pic and you can see where her swelling was as it is white although now that she is dead it is harder to see. Any insight is greatly appreciated. I love my fish and am so sad I couldn't save her. Her diet consisted of Hakari gold pellets, another brand of pellet, Hakari daphnia, fluval bug bites and the occasional blood worm or brine shrimp. She got a bit of food two times a day.
  19. I wanted to give an update on Daniel. He still has good energy and is eating well. He went back in his main tank to avoid the heat wave. The quarantine tank got up to 95*F 😅. His fins were better before the transition, but I think the stress of moving has made them a little frayed again. Since my last post the two white bumps have grown significantly and are deforming the surrounding tissue. He isn’t bothered by them yet, but I worry that they will grow to the point of affecting his swimming. Could they be tumors? Abscesses? A parasite? I haven’t noticed any other white bumps. Should I monitor or would it be worth deworming again? His tank has two live plants. Thanks for the help! Water Parameters pH – 8.0 Nitrate – 0 Hardness – 300 Nitrite – 0 Ammonia – 0 KH – 80 Water temperature – 77*F (no heater)
  20. So, my tap water has a PH of 8.0. My betta and snails seem ok, but the neo shimp that have been in for many months (since Dec 2020) have gone from 11-13 to just 2 in the last 2 weeks. No bodies except 1 I found behind the tank (I assumed the mystery snail is eating them before I see a body, until I found the dried up shrimpie behind the tank). Now, I don't know if they are crawling out and dieing or dieing and being eaten. I thought I should try to address the PH in case that is why they are dieing or crawling out (ammonia, nitrates, nitrites all 0, tank has been cycled for almost a year). I bought some Seachem Acid Buffer, but I am nervous of using it. I have a planted tank btw, plants are all alive and ok, but not thriving, and growing extremely slowly. Any suggestions on how to safely use the buffer and get my 5gal back to a safer ph. Looking to get the ph closer to 7.2-7.4
  21. Hi, I'm thinking about getting indian almond leaves for my betta tanks, but I'm wondering how exactly you use them and how you would keep the pH stable. My pH is 8.0, and I have really hard water, so indian almond leaves would help lower the pH for my bettas. I also heard they can help reduce stress and risk of infections. The only thing is that if the leaves lower the pH, and I do a water change every week, wouldn't that result in a lot of pH swings? So I was wondering how you can use the leaves but keep the pH stable.
  22. Hi, my name is Brandy, and I think I have a problem... I am moving in 2 weeks. I have been desperately trying to pare down...I went to the aquarium co-op for some hikari cichlid gold floating mini pellets. They were out... But...This guy was staring at me from right next to the door. I don't even like bettas. But I did have this nice empty cycled tank at home...
  23. Hello everyone, Can someone please confirm if my betta has columnaris? I have only just stopped treating him for fin rot, but just today I notice there is white stuff coming out of his mouth. It also looks like he is discoloured underneath (can be faintly seen in the second image). He has also just gone off his food and is lethargic. I have treated the tank with aquarium salts and primafix (this stuff). The last fortnight I did 100% water changes and dosing with primafix and salts to treat the fin rot- which finally seemed to be getting better, and now this! I appreciate any advice as this is a very new hobby. Thank-you
  24. I have foam Bubbles on the surface of my 5 gallon fish tank. I just did a gravel vacuum and 50% water change. I used my master test kit before the water change and also three days later. Water Quality is all good so what could be wrong. And yes I used Prime water conditioner. I'm only 8 months into this hobby. I have one Betta fish and one snail in this tank. The tank is six months old. I have other larger tanks that are not having this issue. I also serviced the pumps by wringing out the dirty filter in the aquarium water I vacuumed out. The bubbles appeared three days after tank maintenance. Any Advice?
  25. I've been trying to figure out what's going on in my heavily-planted 20 gallon hexagon. I've had a betta in there for about 3 months. His fins are looking a little haggard, but that could be explained by other factors resulting from inexperience/experimentation: My plan was to move him to a smaller 10 gallon mostly plantless column tank that is currently a grow out tank for some juvenile platys, treat him with some salt and see if I can't get some fin regrowth. I haven't had any previous parasite issues or ich (as far as I know), so I thought it might just be stress or something about the environment that he didn't like. Before doing, that, though I wanted to see how the betta would do with the platys (and to see if they could make a dent in the hair algae that's been growing), so I moved two into the 20 gallon as my "canaries in the mineshaft" if you will. I kinda just dropped them in and didn't acclimate them at all. The betta flared at them a bit initially, but has since mellowed out. However, I have now noticed that at least one of the platys have been flashing off of my crypts and anubias for about a week. It's not super frequent as far as I can tell--I only see her do it 2 or 3 times once or twice a day. The tank is on my desk, so I'm able to keep a pretty good eye on them. I don't see any signs of ich or irritation to their scales and the betta and otos that are in there don't seem to be affected. Last Friday, when I did my weekly water change, I added the standard 1 tbsp of salt per 5 gallons and let them sit in it over the weekend. The flashing is still happening and my plants are already looking a little rough. Hesitant to continue down this road, I did a 50% water change yesterday and plan on doing another 50% today in an effort to get some of the salt out. Current tank parameters: pH: 6.8 - 7.0 Ammonia: 0 Nitrites: 0 Nitrates: 20 - 30ppm GH: 25 KH: 0 (?) Temp: 78 - 80 My questions: Is the flashing something to be concerned about? Could it be an external parasites or just the result of a different pH than the tank they were raised in? The pH in the tank that the platys came from is 7.6 thanks to some crushed corral in the filter and I know platys tend to like a bit of a higher pH If I move the betta and the platys into the 10 gallon in order to treat them, that leaves the 20 gallon empty, but potentially with parasite issues. I would assume that the parasites require a host to survive, but is it risky to put the platys from the 10 gallon in the 20 straight away or would the 20 gallon need to be treated in some way? If I can't move them into the 20 gallon, what can I do to treat the tank without killing the plants? I'm not too concerned about the bacteria in the tank because I have plenty of other tanks that I can use to jump start it if the bacteria are killed off. I would just hate to lose my plants. Any recommendations on a course of action here?
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