nabokovfan87

Yep it's in a 20L. Designed to be used at a 45 degree angle or vertical. They have a smaller 50W version, but it's EU only from all that I can tell. The "issues" with shipping tend to be about how fluval has the red switch on the top designed. There's nothing in the box that protects it and they can often arrive nonfunctional or damaged. Best heater you can get, but brought down by just poor packaging.

Most or all floating plants should follow In this category, but duckweed is exceptionally difficult for some to get rid of. I would suggest other floaters like red root or salvinia species. Just check your state for what's actually legal.

Ram heaven right there. 😍

My condolences. What a beautiful Betta.

I stuck with the fluval e-100. Thankfully it arrived in one piece. Shipped in a paper envelope. No idea why, but yeah.... I definitely struggle myself to find one "better" and am very leery of all the different ones out there.

Steel pipes are nice! 🙂 It does a good job of polishing the water, yes. That 2" thick black foam in the bottom tray works great. There is some slight bypass in the lid and tray design that causes some issues, but it can be minimized in some aspects. I mentioned that because it pretty much throws dirt all over the media. A good pre filter is also good for that polishing affect. Less than 15% of the intake from the tidal comes from the actual intake pipe itself. There's slots all around the pump that suck in a lot of the water, the intake pipe also has a "half moon" that you would want to drill out as well. Most of the intake of water comes from the pump housing+skimmer grates.

Oh hello. What kind of heater? I think.they do it a lot but we just never see it. Short Burts like that when it's "really cold.". I've definitely spent some time watching the heater glow in the shrimp tank set to low 70s.

Same price as a fluval

Moving is never fun, but you learn a lot and get to see a lot of all your things. I moved so much everything I owned, including mattress, fit in the back of my hatchback. I would encourage you to just try to have some confidence and hope that things will be ok in the end.

I would highly encourage you to check out channels like Ohio fish rescue and this video from Cory. Every day people move live fish and there's a billion ways to do it. One nice tip was for sensitive fish, add some carbon to the bottom of the bag or the bottom of the tote with some air. That helps. There's also studies using salt when shipping fish to avoid ammonia burn. Great ideas.

Try using Marine and prefilters. Never had a shrimp in mine. I am going to end up getting a steel one, I recommend just get a sump. Or an insert kit for a mini sump You just glue them into a 10-20g aquarium. Much better in my eyes. Mine too. It's absolutely to get even circulation. I run the filter in one spot and then "add on" a skimmer.

Look up the UNS mini canisters. Steel ones are great in terms of aesthetics, but check into both the series they have. I wish I had gone that route with mine as opposed to fluval. Basically, you get a lot more for what you pay for, less design issues.

I would suggest a few things to make life really easy for you. 1. Have your family setup totes. Just get the ones that are sterilite from target or home Depot and set those up somewhere. Right now in Cali, you don't need a heater, thankfully. You want to have your family setup the tubs with air stones and lids just to get things "moving" 2. Take your filtration media and keep it wet. Put that into an ice chest in bags or however you need to do it to keep it cycled. You can also get a big bottle of something like seachem stability for pretty cheap and use that on hand when you get to those tubs. 3. Bag up your fish, they go in the ice chest as well. 4. Regardless of moving anything else that is all you need to have for your fish themselves to move. You can take your hardscape and you can take plants and that stuff too, but it's not a priority so to speak. 5. You ship the fish or drive them, then you would acclimate them like anything else when they arrive in California. Add in your filter media to the bottom of each of the totes and then just let the fish have the "pond life" for a few weeks. 6. Break down and setup the tanks and move everything you need to. This is where you can replace tanks, merge tanks, and so on if you need to as well. Getting a uhaul or something like that for moving all your stuff would be very helpful and the fish can make that journey with you as well. It's a trek for sure, but it is absolutely possible. If it was me in that scenario, I would ship the fish and have totes like that setup as holding tubs.

I think the 407 is "rated for" something like a 90gallon aquarium and there's no way I would use it for anything larger than a 3 foot tank. In the 55/75g it struggles to move water that distance. It just is specific to setup sometimes. There's also preference too. I tend to run a particular setup and higher flow demanding fish, but that comment and recommendation is something that was posted elsewhere and made a lot of sense to me after trying to understand the filter I have and some of the quirks on that filter. I wish the spraybar just came in the box!!!

It's definitely not a 1:1 scenario. There are people that think that if you test GH, KH, and TDS when you're keeping shrimp.... That TDS = GH+KH. It's just hard to really grasp it on some level without having a chemistry set and using solutions. Water isn't just water a lot of the times. There's a lot of "stuff" that skews results and it's just what it is. I would recommend using GH and KH liquid tests. I don't think anyone should be making tank decisions based on TDS. Basically, TDS is useful only for mixing water. Each time the meter is used it has to be calibrated, it's a hassle.