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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    "Unflavored " 😂 Why.... Why does that need to be there.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Or a tub, but yes. I would run it in two batches for 7-14 days each time in addition to water changes. Meaning, run one batch for 10 days with 1-2 big water changes. Then repeat that with fresh carbon a second time just for safety margin.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Nothing in the bottom (I was testing using mech or similar to slow the flow and act as a baffle, didn't work). The difference between what your setup is compared to the tidal is the left to right, back to front flow. This one has a gap around the basket and that actually causing issues. Water enters the HoB and should be forced down, then that goes into the bottom of the basket and then that is supposed to flow up through the media and out of the basket. Similar to how most canister filters work, almost exactly, but it's something able to hang on the tank. I'll start messing with things here shortly, but given the setup it should've helped with flow or remained unchanged. That's the fuss with this thing.... You can literally just clean it and have worse results. The PPI on the ACO sponge is something like 10-15 ppi. For the default seachem sponge let's say it's 20-30. For the bumpy foam I have let's say it's 30 ppi. There's a slight difference depending what I have and the weight of the media bag compresses things. So even though the sponge is a certain setup, that might be compressed and choking out some of the foams. If I remove the media bag and everything is fine, then it's media related. If I remove it and nothing changes, then let's blame that on the interaction of the pump and the foam itself.
  4. nabokovfan87
    For planaria you want to use a trap in addition to planaria meds. Something like "no planaria" or something else that specifically is mentioned to work for that. Most times you'll need to follow the directions and then heavily siphon the tank. Repeat that 4-6 times for a heavy infestation.
  5. nabokovfan87
    How are things going?
  6. nabokovfan87
    Did you treat any of your fish for internal parasites? If you're using aquarium salt that might not be the best method. For some issues Epsom salt baths is preferred. I can't speak to it perfectly, but something I found when researching them was that using both epsom and aquarium salt simultaneously can have a counter productive affect. Meaning, you'd want to stick to just one type of salt, give the fish a break, then use the other if need be. Something to look into. Sounds like it might be a lateral line or swim bladder issue and exacerbated by not eating leading to their body shutting down. Let us know when you can regarding an air stone in that container as well as ammonia and other test results you might have available that aren't listed above. What would you do? @Colu @Odd Duck
  7. nabokovfan87
    Might've hit the lid?
  8. nabokovfan87
    ORD. That's awesome and super handy. Nice find. The label was right. It's a really useful box!
  9. nabokovfan87
    Let's see what I can find! January: black corydoras on top in a 29G, panda tank on bottom in a 10G with mopani just to give them cover. Some anubias was moved into the 10 as well, but mostly it was just to give them a place of their own until I could setup a proper tank for them. The dresser caved in, expedited things. December:
  10. nabokovfan87
    Every nerite I've had they sleep on the side of the tank or the lid. Not a huge sample size, but maybe this is normal nocturnal behavior? Maybe lowering the water line will keep them in the tank as opposed to trying to get out. 100%. Amano shrimp are exactly the same way too. Them sitting in the HoB is a good (tragic) indicator that there's something really wrong.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Day two? Yeah. Day two. So 48 hours and we have SEVERE bypass. Optimized filter, pump is spotless and lubricated, the impeller is clean. The basket was verified to be level and to be in place and to be setup such a way that it's as optimal as I can make it. I'll explain in a future post or later in this one, but the filter is able to be adjusted 5.5-6 levels. Let's just call it six for the sake of ease. Each adjustment I make drops the flow by 1/6 or just over 15%. This is sort of the only way I can control flow as a variable and across the board for all testing purposes. When I checked the basket the main culprit wasn't just the back right corner but the entire back edge of the basket area. This is troubling and I'll try to determine what's going on a bit further tomorrow. I will also check and verify the sponge, probably clean everything even though it was just done. As you can see, we do have spillage/bypass on both the right and left corners of the basket. The media itself might be too full, but we do have everything below the media line that I use. Removing some may help and that can be something we transition to testing now. In terms of sponge, this is 2x course (slightly course) foam that is reticulated and cut to fit the basket properly. Normally I run 1 course and 1 medium, but this specific "final test" setup is trying to remove that medium sponge as a flow issue factor. More to come.... In terms of flow adjustment, I turn the flow fully on, I use the indentation on the dial with my finger and push one indentation as far leftward as I can without too much force or hassle. You can see the setting right now, but I've gone ahead and indicated my marks so we have a common language for adjustment purposes.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Have you thought about using Seiryu stone as a buffer?
  13. nabokovfan87
    Test your tap water for nitrates. Just give it 24-48 hours and change water again until you're able to get them down. Wood will not leech nitrates.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Seeing the little plastic carbon blocks reminds me of the good ol' days. Welcome to the forum. Excited to see what you do! When do we get to see the other 7 🙂 ?
  15. nabokovfan87
    There are some plants I will only buy via tissue culture or hobbyist grown because I know it's not deteriorating the natural environment where the plant originates (hygro pinnatifida as an example). I have had good success with tissue culture plants, but as Cory mentioned I can't really walk into a local shop and buy any. Online, it's hard to trust anything and you have no grasp for size. Often photos seem of very micro size plants compared to what you would get normally for something hobbyist grown. Moss, tissue cultured is a very good concept. Other plants you have to pick and choose your battles. Just like most everything in the US, there are buzz words used to hike prices. It's a foolish thing, but that is the nature of business (or simply advertising) here.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Not in my own care, but even some bettas with very poor care I have seen survive for a few months. Longest I've seen personally is 2-3 years. None of those bettas actually had a real aquarium I would say that 75-90% of them developed dropsy. Very unfortunate.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Age of the strip aside, It looks like there's contamination as well as time issues with the test itself. Whenever you see multiple colors you generally have to retest to verify something. Email API, have them send a replacement, no big deal. Get yourself some new test strips, also useful. Hopefully you're able to sort it out. I would test..... A. Water from the tap B. Water aerated after 24 hours from the tap C. Your tank. Hopefully B and C match. My gut tells me your water company crashed PH on your tank.
  18. nabokovfan87
    Best of luck, hopefully a fruitful hatch rate!
  19. nabokovfan87
    How are things going in terms of plants @Fish Folk?
  20. nabokovfan87
    literally the only reason any wood should be boiled is sanitation. Tannins are natural as mentioned and literally the reason you buy wood! My mopani is over 8-9 years old and I still leech tannins perfectly fine off that wood to have a blackwater tinge. You're not going to boil that away. I have a fish pot (yep, because one time I boiled out the sap and was not going to make spaghetti sauce with that one!) that I use for wood. Just like pasta, honestly, boil enough water to cover it and then you'd boil it for 10-15 minutes. Follow your handy "this is how you sanitize water" survival handbook and that's the method I recommend. If wood doesn't fit, I boil one side, then the other, then the other, etc. Some pieces there's no chance of fitting and they end up getting hosed off and soaked. After whichever prep method, toss it in a tub / bucket and soak it. Every 24-48 hours I replace the water on that wood soak. Inspect the wood before hand. You can also do the exact same sanitation for freshwater pathogens by soaking the wood in salt. This isn't going to harm fish, doesn't require anything but a bucket, and then you are fine to go ahead and toss that in a tank with a gentle amount of salt...... except for snails, that's perfectly fine.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Totally is a useful tool. We used to take the tank (20G tall I think) and we'd basically drain all the water, move the fish, take everything out, pour all the gravel into the sink / strainer. Then clean the filter. This was once a month, once every 2 months. I mean, it worked. We had the tank for a really good while, but it definitely wasn't what we should've done based on tools we have now and the knowledge we have now. If you're running all plastic decor and stuff like that, I probably would still use a bucket, strainer, and a fish sink to clean everything during maintenance.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Agreed! I won't purchase a light without it anymore. Too much risk of easily damaging the light randomly.
  23. nabokovfan87
    Streetwise was talking specifically about terrestrial moss, not aquatic moss. He is correct. Just like a lot of terrarium plants, they might be ok for a little while, but really what is going on is that the plant is trying to hold on, it's not possible for some plants to grow submersed. Whatever the situation is here with this moss (we don't have an ID on that species) it basically comes down to figuring out what it is and then making it thrive in a suitable environment. Looks a lot like Christmas moss, but it's a blurry photo. Try to compare it to what you can see in person and hopefully that helps out.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Pretty much any wood, you probably should. I don't do it for tannins, I do soaking for that. Boiling is to allow it to sink and more specifically for the sake of trying to remove any contamination risk. I soak my wood for a minimum of 5 days, usually 10-14 days for bigger pieces.
  25. nabokovfan87
    I just get the fish out like any other. BNPs will usually stick to the glass as opposed to other places when a net gets involved. Get them to one side of the tank and then use your hand to coax them into the net. Second to that, use a pleco cave. You move the cave itself and let the fish swim out into the new tank. Lastly would be the "wild fish catching" method where you lift up the chunk of lid or hardscape and then catch them in the net. Some plecos won't release from the decor when that happens. It can be easier to move the hardscape out, then net the fish the traditional way.
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