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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Temp is very likely way too high for panda corydoras as well as PH being slightly high. This is probably was caused some stress on the fish, resulting in oxygenation or other diseases flaring up. Especially with corydoras I often run into acclimation issues, where you won't have a death right away but weeks (or first few months) you can have them fall off and just not act right. Add an extra air stone for now as well as some aquarium salt (1/2 cup per 10G is the dose I use) For angels and tetras you're looking at 78 degrees, but for pandas they really do better at the 72-76 range in my view. If it is fine for all of the other fish in the tank, try to target 75-76 for your temperature, but if you need to keep it 77-78 then that will be much better for the corydoras as long as you have 1-2 airstones in the tank. You'll also get some fun behaviors when they play in the bubbles 🙂
  2. nabokovfan87
    In my tanks I generally prefer Soilent Green (and/or super green), community blend, and bottom scratcher. I am very interested in and recommend spawn and grow food as well. I also really want to try the Igapo Explorer. I think it does well with what corydoras like to eat, but I just don't have any to test that. Anyone else think so?
  3. nabokovfan87
    Depends what you specifically can control. Lighting can bring out colors in the plants or fish. If you have more reddish tones, that can accent the tank nicely. If you have more blue tones then that can accent other colors nicely. Art theory aside, yes there is some benefit to tuning / adjusting lighting spectrum. There's a lot smarter people than I that can explain and elaborate on that. It's also a very interesting topic to dive into when it comes to hydroponics, lighting wavelengths (and their refraction), as well as how plant biology itself uses different spectrums of light (meaning, different light energies / wavelengths along the lighting spectrum). https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/light-3pillars/fine-tuning-light-spectrum https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/light-3pillars/best_light_spectrum
  4. nabokovfan87
    I'll try to find a SKU or something, but I use a black small net with an extra long handle that I got from the big box store. Seachem has a new line of nets I really thing are nice too. The advantage being it's good mesh, but comes in about 10+ different sizes with one of the main factors just being the same basket size, but longer or shorter handles. I tend to be very, very specific about my net choice just because of how I catch fish I guess.... maybe I'm just one who is always particular when it comes to certain design preferences. The one I have is like this, but black (longer handle one). Here's what Seachem has that might be equivalent. Still can't seem to find these anywhere, but gives you a sku to search for or something maybe you can find locally.
  5. nabokovfan87
    The fry that was hatched in the tank is about 2x the size of the others still. It's currently about 1.25" long! The others are just hitting 1" right now. Keep in mind these are a slightly bigger/longer corydoras which is why you see those dimensions, but still... Loving how active and happy the parents are to see more fry around. Even if it does make them move a bit. I'm loving the behavior the herd has now. Time for some repashy
  6. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, I don't plan to mix colors. Just have a nice green tank!
  7. nabokovfan87
    Lol, too funny. You'll have to explain to me about that one day! Especially with the book I'm reading, very curious topic ( the marine biology stuff!) PH has to do with how acidic or basic the water is. KH has to do with the ions in the water that contribute to PH. Gh has to do with the general minerals in the water. That's basically how I view.it. could.be misleading, incorrect, or missing something, but that's my general approach to it. If you want an "explain further" on the topic, KH being at a certain value means that your water is more stable for an aquarium. Because of how ions bond, fish waste, that means that some water is "less stable" commonly leading to off parameters, crashes in water parameters (PH) and stuff like old tank syndrome (Tepid water) which is just an easy way to say.... The fish have a risk of being stressed or harmed because of the water turning acidic.
  8. nabokovfan87
    Similar questions here. I wish I knew more about plants. Especially how to take an existing one and try to add a piece of it to the back of my tank. 😞
  9. nabokovfan87
    I am so confused..... Hopefully it works well for you. Good to hear flow control works decently well. Ironically, I heard those come with two prefilter sponges!
  10. nabokovfan87
    Different species have different stressors. So depending what might be causing that issue, could be an explanation as to why one is having more issues than the other. Apart from genetics, simply a long term acclimation issue could explain it. Especially if the black corydoras are newer. Hopefully you're able to get some meds for your fish. 😞
  11. nabokovfan87
    I need a shrimp tank.... Such a beautiful setup shown off. I'd love to get a carpet.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Do you have any local hobbyists or shops you trust? What is usually done for fish with dropsy in your area?
  13. nabokovfan87
    What filter is being used and how is it setup? I buffer mine from 6.5ish up to 7.2-7.4. using crushed coral it went up very little, but it was more stable than say using buffers. Let's say it went up by 0.1-0.3 range. That being mentioned, it also wasn't nearly enough for the issue at hand. For low PH, you're probably looking at 1.5-2 lbs per 10G to get it from 6 --> 7+ Lastly, PH is part of the story, but you need to check your GH and KH. Either use the tetra strips or the ACO strips to do so. There are plenty of fish that will do perfectly fine at 6-7.4 PH range without issues.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Oh yeah, always a use for those things!
  15. nabokovfan87
    Yes. It is essentially filter floss. It does not have nearly what you're looking for in terms of long term health for your biological filtration, unfortunately. If you need to polish the water, it's a great tool. Correct. You would need to cut it to fit, then you would literally only replace it when it turned to a pile of mush. Usually after about a year or a few years. 30 should fit. you can also do 2x30. They may or may not come in a multi-pack. For sure the tidal 35 is the nicer size for use like that. The 55 might fit, entirely up to what you see compared to the dimensions you measure. Just open the box in the store or ask them if you can to verify, it does have dimensions on the box. I would always have 2-3 backs of the 30 packs around for new tanks. Toss them in a tank that is already up and running and then after a few weeks add it in to the new tank. Correct. The biowheel might not be working as effectively for a variety of reasons, but in terms of stability, having more media in the filter will seriously help. Then the wheel will be filled with very resilient, very strong bacteria. Trying to dampen the output flow (slow it down) for that particular fish. Not required. Even without plants in the tank, carbon aside, you just want to improve the filter media and how it operates. Why it isn't done by marineland (or others) is beyond me. In terms of a blank canvas, marineland is great and simple to "fix". Better media means better filtration and a better overall bioload your filter/tank can house.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Weekly siphon. Nothing fancy. It's manual effort.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Very likely ammonia burn. You'll want to check water, complete water changes (don't do a massive one) over the next few days to help clean up parameters. In terms of the fish, you'll want to treat with aquarium salt and/or bacterial meds to prevent tail rot from settling in. This is extremely high for corydoras. You'll want to add in crushed coral or aragonite sand. 1 lb per 10 gallons. You can also look into something like alkalinity buffers There seems to be a LOT going on here so let's start from the beginning..... Please provide details on what species of fish are in the tank, tank setup, photos, etc. Please also provide what you're seeing on the corydoras. As mentioned earlier, you started treading for ich. Why? Let's take a breath and let's figure things out so you can progress forward with quality information for your specific scenario.
  18. nabokovfan87
    If these aren't framed on the wall..... 😍
  19. nabokovfan87
    Yes this is normal, and yes it is normal to have to fill out paperwork for "exotic" pets. Lizards and other things it happens in case there is a disease issue and you need to be notified. Secondly, YES OF COURSE it is common to not sell things intended to be kept as a pet for the sake of a life food. They have ghost shrimp and feeder fish that are sold as intended for live foods. They have frozen foods. They don't, and almost never sell puffers for freshwater. Take that into consideration as to why they don't have options for live food for larger puffers available. Kind of like walking in to buy a hermit crab or a crayfish, then saying yeah I want to get 3-4 of them to fight. It's not what is intended and the store has every right to not allow that purchase.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Alright.... SO. There's a few things here we need to digest. This is my own personal experience and something I've helped others with that has usually, often, fixed issues in their tanks. Essentially, your filter is working too hard to keep strong, healthy bacteria. What we need to do is ditch the replacement cartridge and add in some longer lasting mechanical and biological media. Option 1: Sponge (Mechanical) + Ceramic Media (Biological) Option 2: Sponge (Mechanical + Biological) Note: This typically works better when you do a course to medium or course --> Medium --> Fine method. You can also do a Course sponge, followed by a thicker or several layers of medium sponge. This is extremely common, but potentially not in the method you think. Starting with what you currently have, you can go out and find a bag of biomax, matrix, or some other media that is available and easy to plug in and use. The Seachem Tidal 35 bags or Biomax 30 (aquaclear brand) will be perfect. Purchase either one of those and then add that to the CURRENT HoB container. Nothing fancy, just add it, and give it time to get seeded with media. This is what we can see in @Chick-In-Of-TheSea's video when their Marineland filter was modded. See above, That's what you want to do first before adding any sort of biological helper. In terms of what you had mentioned, dechlorinator is helpful, but do not dose it more than once every 24 hours. This does not remove the nitrites from the water, it does something to bind them, but eventually they will show back up unless removed via water change. Let me re-read and see what your potential causes and options to improve it might be. Take a look at Seachem's Acid buffer if need be. Nipping is definitely an issue. This is often why a 40B is recommended for angels because of the horizontal swimming space as opposed to only the vertical space. (L x W x H) 36 Bow - 30.25 x 15.5 x 20.875 40 Breeder - 48.25 x 12.75 x 16.925 The ziss airstones work really well. I would start with those. I always break the stone ones when I try to remove the airline. Getting ones that are plastic is a major advantage when it comes to reusability.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Looks like their sponges are in the wrong spot. 😞
  22. nabokovfan87
    @Chick-In-Of-TheSea You know what's next. 🙂
  23. nabokovfan87
    For shrimp? This. Shrimp LOVE flow. In the wild they are usually in rivers I believe. There's hundreds of stories of shrimp turning a HoB into their own little shrimp hideout. Toss a piece of tall wood or rock right near the output of the filter. 😉
  24. nabokovfan87
    Very cool. What's the plan for your new filters?
  25. nabokovfan87
    Yeah. Especially the dark roasts. They can get pretty off-putting.
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