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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    I would like to see this if you have any details. I've got a playlist on YouTube and a thread in my signature regarding my testing. The skimmer is not "doing nothing" but water level absolutely plays a role with function of the skimmer as an "intake". The tidal has the skimmer slots, the heater holder alot, the pump slots, the gaps in all of the plastics due to molding tolerances, the gaps to allow the housing to attach to the pump cover, and then you have the intake tube itself, which has the half moon restricting flow out of the box. We can discuss the tidal in another thread given the subject matter of this topic. With most canister filter designs, even small ones, you have a much more direct intake and output path for the water circulation.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Yep it's in a 20L. Designed to be used at a 45 degree angle or vertical. They have a smaller 50W version, but it's EU only from all that I can tell. The "issues" with shipping tend to be about how fluval has the red switch on the top designed. There's nothing in the box that protects it and they can often arrive nonfunctional or damaged. Best heater you can get, but brought down by just poor packaging.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Most or all floating plants should follow In this category, but duckweed is exceptionally difficult for some to get rid of. I would suggest other floaters like red root or salvinia species. Just check your state for what's actually legal.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Ram heaven right there. 😍
  5. nabokovfan87
    My condolences. What a beautiful Betta.
  6. nabokovfan87
    I stuck with the fluval e-100. Thankfully it arrived in one piece. Shipped in a paper envelope. No idea why, but yeah.... I definitely struggle myself to find one "better" and am very leery of all the different ones out there.
  7. nabokovfan87
    Steel pipes are nice! 🙂 It does a good job of polishing the water, yes. That 2" thick black foam in the bottom tray works great. There is some slight bypass in the lid and tray design that causes some issues, but it can be minimized in some aspects. I mentioned that because it pretty much throws dirt all over the media. A good pre filter is also good for that polishing affect. Less than 15% of the intake from the tidal comes from the actual intake pipe itself. There's slots all around the pump that suck in a lot of the water, the intake pipe also has a "half moon" that you would want to drill out as well. Most of the intake of water comes from the pump housing+skimmer grates.
  8. nabokovfan87
    Oh hello. What kind of heater? I think.they do it a lot but we just never see it. Short Burts like that when it's "really cold.". I've definitely spent some time watching the heater glow in the shrimp tank set to low 70s.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Same price as a fluval
  10. nabokovfan87
    Moving is never fun, but you learn a lot and get to see a lot of all your things. I moved so much everything I owned, including mattress, fit in the back of my hatchback. I would encourage you to just try to have some confidence and hope that things will be ok in the end.
  11. nabokovfan87
    I would highly encourage you to check out channels like Ohio fish rescue and this video from Cory. Every day people move live fish and there's a billion ways to do it. One nice tip was for sensitive fish, add some carbon to the bottom of the bag or the bottom of the tote with some air. That helps. There's also studies using salt when shipping fish to avoid ammonia burn. Great ideas.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Try using Marine and prefilters. Never had a shrimp in mine. I am going to end up getting a steel one, I recommend just get a sump. Or an insert kit for a mini sump You just glue them into a 10-20g aquarium. Much better in my eyes. Mine too. It's absolutely to get even circulation. I run the filter in one spot and then "add on" a skimmer.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Look up the UNS mini canisters. Steel ones are great in terms of aesthetics, but check into both the series they have. I wish I had gone that route with mine as opposed to fluval. Basically, you get a lot more for what you pay for, less design issues.
  14. nabokovfan87
    I would suggest a few things to make life really easy for you. 1. Have your family setup totes. Just get the ones that are sterilite from target or home Depot and set those up somewhere. Right now in Cali, you don't need a heater, thankfully. You want to have your family setup the tubs with air stones and lids just to get things "moving" 2. Take your filtration media and keep it wet. Put that into an ice chest in bags or however you need to do it to keep it cycled. You can also get a big bottle of something like seachem stability for pretty cheap and use that on hand when you get to those tubs. 3. Bag up your fish, they go in the ice chest as well. 4. Regardless of moving anything else that is all you need to have for your fish themselves to move. You can take your hardscape and you can take plants and that stuff too, but it's not a priority so to speak. 5. You ship the fish or drive them, then you would acclimate them like anything else when they arrive in California. Add in your filter media to the bottom of each of the totes and then just let the fish have the "pond life" for a few weeks. 6. Break down and setup the tanks and move everything you need to. This is where you can replace tanks, merge tanks, and so on if you need to as well. Getting a uhaul or something like that for moving all your stuff would be very helpful and the fish can make that journey with you as well. It's a trek for sure, but it is absolutely possible. If it was me in that scenario, I would ship the fish and have totes like that setup as holding tubs.
  15. nabokovfan87
    I think the 407 is "rated for" something like a 90gallon aquarium and there's no way I would use it for anything larger than a 3 foot tank. In the 55/75g it struggles to move water that distance. It just is specific to setup sometimes. There's also preference too. I tend to run a particular setup and higher flow demanding fish, but that comment and recommendation is something that was posted elsewhere and made a lot of sense to me after trying to understand the filter I have and some of the quirks on that filter. I wish the spraybar just came in the box!!!
  16. nabokovfan87
    It's definitely not a 1:1 scenario. There are people that think that if you test GH, KH, and TDS when you're keeping shrimp.... That TDS = GH+KH. It's just hard to really grasp it on some level without having a chemistry set and using solutions. Water isn't just water a lot of the times. There's a lot of "stuff" that skews results and it's just what it is. I would recommend using GH and KH liquid tests. I don't think anyone should be making tank decisions based on TDS. Basically, TDS is useful only for mixing water. Each time the meter is used it has to be calibrated, it's a hassle.
  17. nabokovfan87
    TDS is just "stuff" but GH is very specific minerals.
  18. nabokovfan87
    Are you on the west coast? So the long and short of it is that there's a lot of confusion out there because a lot of people really don't understand what the shrimp need. Things happen in the water, deaths happen, and it might be a nutritional issue, but they test water and see GH is of a certain number and blame that. Personally I've kept amano shrimp in a massive array of parameters. When pH gets too high, then you run into issues. I do keep Neocaridina shrimp and the main thing there is to have some KH, and to have GH within a range that makes sense. (more than 6 degrees, less than 14 or so) The rivers in Taiwan is a place you can research and get water test results to compare values to. From my research, their GH is around 12 degrees naturally. I've also been told many times that it MUST BE 6 or else you will run into issues. I keep my tanks in the 8-10 range. All this is a roundabout way of saying that I encourage you to absolutely keep shrimp! However, please go grab a liquid GH+KH test kit and start there. Test the tap water where you would get your water change water from and then test your tank. Let us know those values.
  19. nabokovfan87
    Yes, it's absolutely fine to cover the tank up and do a blackout. I use 2-3 towels for this. One on the back of the tank, one on the front, and potentially one across the top if you need it. Definitely try to scrape whatever you need to and adjust the lighting a little bit.
  20. nabokovfan87
    As far as the x07 series.... 107 = 10g 207 = 20g 307 = 30g 407 = 40g (definitely ignore what the box says because I can tell you it's dramatically under powered.) I have done extensive testing on a ton of filters including the ones that you're mentioning. I would recommend something different for shrimp. The intake strainer on the x07 series isn't great. It's bulky, it's sharp, and there isn't a prefilter that works well with it. Especially with neo shrimp. It's perfectly fine for fish, but for shrimp, I don't recommend it. The tidal is not great at all unless you dedicate the time to modify it for fish/shrimp. You need to use silicone or other materials to close off a variety of sections, all of this is out of warranty and is detailed in my tidal thread. The pump on the tidal is great, but the filter itself isn't something I would encourage for fish or shrimp. It killed a tank for me one by one and I spent years "fixing it" and researching methods to use the items I had on hand to alleviate the situation of sleeping fish being sucked in. Please feel free to ask any questions. I do have filters I like, but setup is extremely critical. In my shrimp tank I only run hikari sponge filters. I use the plastics/internals from an ACO filter just so I don't have to modify it to run an air stone. Either setup is perfectly fine, the key is that the finer sponge works well with neo shrimp.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Hopefully they are soft enough! Feel better little fishy.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Maybe jumped into the lid? Spine is a little bent and curving downward. I would just check to verify that against the other fish. I'm very sorry for that issue! It's always been one I have struggled to really ever fix and reminds me of Cory dealing with Hank.
  23. nabokovfan87
    Basically you want to make sure it doesn't turn into secondary infection, redness turns into more normal pinkish color.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Keep an eye on that one for secondary issues, consider some salt / moving that fish to let them recover.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Understood @Colu! Thank you. I am trying to make a "first aid kit" so to speak. Right now it was used because I absolutely don't have much of an idea of what this disease is or what I'm dealing with. At this point it is a necessary step and I am not sure if it makes sense in future to use preemptively (something I am very comfortable doing with salt+ich-x for things like external protozoan diseases), but it might be something that has a use and is something we may actually want to keep on hand? That's sort of my logic. It's actually "cheap" considering what you get out of it, but I appreciate the words of caution. I don't like to use meds unless absolutely necessary. I am working at getting a better understanding of certain key diseases, like I have with shrimp, but what I'm finding out is that it's not as simple as reading the box/website and matching things up to a photo. There is often very misleading directions or very misleading information because a lot of people just don't know what a certain thing really is.
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