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Found 10 results

  1. Recently I decided to put together a high tech aquarium. The aforementioned aquarium is a a 61 liter (H-40, L-45, W-34 cm), a good sized tank for light penetration. The equipment I use is as follows: Ehiem liberty 75 hang on back filter Chihiros A451 Plus LED light Future heater will be the 50 watt Dennerle heater (summer is hot here so my room is cooled to 24C with AC) DIY Sodastream CO2 system I decided to use Dennerle's Scaper's soil as a substrate, ended up using about 7 liters of the stuff, and dragon stone as the hardscape. This is the only image I have right after adding the soil and hardscape, please excuse the terrible quality. This image is 24 hours after setting up the tank. In this image I am using the Dennerle bio co2 system temporarily until I put together the Sodastream CO2. The plant selection at the time of taking this image is as follows: Anubias nana Cryptocoryne nurii "rosen maiden" Cryptocoryne wendtii "brown" Cryptocoryne scurrilis Cryptocoryne balansae Eriocaulon vietnam Hygrophila pinnatifida Bucephalandra sp. After all the parts for my CO2 system arrived I was finally able to put it together. This system consists of a 400g CO2 Sodastream cylinder, a TR21-4 to W21.8-14 adapter, and a CO2 regulator with a solenoid. Long term a large CO2 cylinder is better cost wise, but I decided to go with this system because I'm limited for space. The picture on the left is of the system in general, and on the right a picture of the adapter. This is the aquarium now, I've moved around some of the plants and swapped some out for others. The current plant list is as follows (would love if someone can identify the plants I'm unsure of): Cryptocoryne nurii "rosen maiden" Cryptocoryne wendtii "brown" Cryptocoryne scurrilis Cryptocoryne balansae Hygrophila pinnatifida Bucephalandra sp. (Dark green and reddish new leaves, it's the big one in the back) -unsure Bucephalandra sp.green (located on a rock just to the right of the filter intake) -unsure Bacopa colorata Alternanthera reineckii "mini" Blyxa japonica Nymphaea zenkeri (red tiger lotus) Ludwigia repens "rubin" Micranthemum Micranthemoides (pear weed) I hope to soon add Cryptocoryne wendtii flamingo and Pogostemon helferi. These are pretty rare in my country so they're a bit pricey and hard to track down. I'll update on the progression and stocking of this aquarium in the future. Constructive criticism and advise is welcome. Hope everyone has a fantastic day and thanks for reading!
  2. Hi everyone, This is my 30 liter high tech nano tank. I built this tank myself 🙂 Above this tank I have a 60 liter high tech tank with lots of stem plants. I quickly discovered that if I don't trim that tank on a weekly basis it quickly becomes overgrown and loses it's aesthetic appeal. The goal for this tank long term is to grow mainly rare plants (at least rare in my country) and have it as low maintenance as possible. Here is a picture from today: Rare (relative to my country) Plant list: Anubias pinto (white leaved anubias) Anubias gold leaf Cryptocryne flamingo (took me two years to track down this plant and it cost me the equivalent of 30 USD from another hobbiest) Pogostemon helferi (green and red variations) Nympheae tricolor Nympheae minuta (in ideal condition this plant flowers underwater) I am using the EI method to dose this tank. currently maintaining this tank is pretty easy. I perform a weekly 50% water change and every other week I trim the moss. My plan is to eventually have the Anubias pinto cover the drift wood, but until it spreads enough I'm using moss too keep algae at bay, I still have some Rotala Hra in the back left over. It was added mainly to keep algae at bay when the tank was just set up. Bonus pic of the Israeli Freshwater Nerite @Bentley Pascoe is lusting after 😉
  3. Recently got my planted main tank back onto a more normalized fert schedule, got my CO2 refilled, and dialing it all back in after about a year of severe depression made me neglect the tank pretty badly. Sorry to my plants and fish (luckily no losses), but I'm back! Anyways, on Friday, I did a fairly large water change ~60% (meant to do 50, but got sidetracked while draining, whoops) to bring my nitrates down from ~80ppm, and then dosed dry ferts (potassium sulfate, monopotassium phosphate, magnesium sulfate, edta micro mix) to add approx 24ppm potassium, 2ppm phosphate, 6ppm magnesium, and 2ppm iron (also contains other micros, but majority iron) in a modified EI dose. I've never intentionally dosed nitrates since fish waste has always provided more than enough in the past... however, when checking my water today, I was down to ~20ppm nitrate. If I keep my current bio load (11 neon tetras, 5 rummynose, 6 cory cats, about 12 juvenile guppies) and 2x daily feeding schedule, am I going to have to start dosing nitrates as well? Do those of you who have high tech tanks find you bottom out nitrates unless you dose?
  4. Good morning all. I have a 55gal deep substrate dirted tank with 3" sand capping with a 20gal sump filter. I have CO2 injection. I have a wave maker above diffuser to disperse co2 and on the other side of tank is another wave maker to circulate co2. This circulation does make a shimmering surface agitation. My question is should there be more agitation or no agitation for the o2/co2 balance. I've read so many websites & forums that for my size tank yes I should have more and some say no agitation. At the moment I can't get any pearling on plants. So confused.
  5. Okay, so after swearing I wouldn't get pressurized CO2... I completely reversed course and got a CO2 art system and a 5 pound cylinder. For someone who is just getting started with CO2, how should I adjust my lights and fert schedule to start? I'm not doing EI yet. I was previously dosing ferts 1 x per week (3 pumps easy green into my 29 gallon plus 2 pumps iron, more than that instigated staghorn algae bloom). I have lights on max for 6 hours every day, CO2 starting up 1 hour before max lights (I use the Finnex Planted + 24/7 and am around most days to adjust as needed) and 1 hour before lights out for a total of 6 hours runtime. I adjusted the dose to end up with a flat 1 point PH drop with injections. Should I keep up with once per week fert dosing for now, or should I bump it up to twice? What signs should I look for that more ferts are needed?
  6. Hi everyone! I've been battling BBA for the last month or so and got to thinking about temperature fluctuation. I'll share my setup below, but my question is more general (I know what kicked off my BBA hahaha). Will a few degrees of temperature fluctuation in a high-tech tank cause CO2 levels to fluctuate enough to cause algae? I've got a 90g tank with an Eheim 200W thermostat connected to an external controller. The target temperature is 73-75 fahrenheit and the controller will only power the thermostat to get the tank back up to 75 if it falls below 73. I think it takes about 2 hours to go from 73 to 75, but I haven't timed it (I'm sure it's over an hour). Me and the fish have been happy with the gentile rise and fall of the temps and reduced wear and tear on the thermostat, but I'm not sure if I'm making things harder on myself with the fluctuations.
  7. Hey folks, I'm beginning my journey on setting up a tank that was gathering dust for years. I spend a lot more time in my home office these days and want something low stress to keep me company. The tank is a 37 gal (30lx12wx27h) was sized for the opening (built in). So far I've got the tank, hood, Fluval 204 (yes it's been that long) and 6 bags of caribsea eco complete. 24 inch Fluval 3.0 is on its way. I'll post pics when the light comes in this week. I also have some asst decore. I have the back and one side painted black. Still working out the CO2 setup due to the limited space I'm thinking of one angel as the centerpiece fish and dwarf rainbows for schooling apisto and Cory's for the bottom and a cool pleco. Stay tuned for more.....
  8. I'm converting my tank to a high tech planted. I bought a Fluval 3.0 and CO² system. I didn't want to switch my substrate, so I purchased many Easy Green root tabs for my sand. I also purchased plants that can do well in sand. My question, will the recommended tab replacement time frame still apply, or will I need to replace them sooner? Also, will I need to invest in other fertilizers? I use all Easy Green products and supplement with Seachem Flourish. I don't have Easy Iron though, should I grab it? Thank you.
  9. I was hoping someone may have had a similar problem and hopefully came to a resolution that did not involve buying a new CO2 tank. Recently I purchased a CO2 kit that came with a refillable tank. Now that the tank has run dry I am having a problem finding a place that can refill it. The thread on the tank is CGA320 and I can only assume the painball places use 5/8-18 standard. The problem is when i search for an adapter so they can refill my tank all I can find is the inverse of what I need since most people need to convert their 5/8-18 standard painball tank to a CGA320 solenoid valve. What I need is a female CGA320 to male 5/8-18 adapter. Anyone have experience with this or can point me to the right product?
  10. Does anyone know a good CO2 Splitter or if a standard airline splitter would work? I have a single co2 tank and was hoping to add a second diffuser to more evenly distribute the co2 throughout the tank. Thanks in advance!
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