nabokovfan87

Totally makes sense. The stockings you had should be ok and work well (with the danios) and everything you have currently.

https://www.amazon.com/Sera-920-Spirulina-Tabs-Table/dp/B00178NK3I The coop used to have them but were removed once there was a change to something to brand it as their natural series. They are available on Amazon, Petco, PetSmart, etc. In the US it's pretty much only online.

I would push for a white cloud, interesting as heck nano tank. Ember tetra, small tetra, white clouds. And Corys. I know it's not the "traditional" centerpiece fish but I have had a lot of fun with centerpiece fish(es) in my setups. Highly recommended. A Bolivian ram maybe? Look at these guys! So beautiful.

I had an issue about 3 months ago with my HOB and a power outage and the tank crashed. The bacterial bloom stuff is a pale beige color (think bread yeast) and it's incredible dense slime. It's like snot in it's consistency and texture. This doesn't look like bacterial or cycle crash issue to me. I would find a tub of any size for temporary storage of the fish. It can be a glass container, plastic, or a 5G bucket if one is available. Keep it covered to reduce stress and try to have an air stone or sponge in that container if you can. In that holding container, treat the fish with salt just to give them an oxygenation boost and keep an eye on behavior. The tank in question you need to treat the entire tank to try to get rid of whatever this is. I would do the ich-x type of treatment as well as the antibacterial treatment and that should clear.up anything in the tank. After that's done, if it gets rid of everything, clean it very well as best you can with a paper towel and then rinse the sponge and re-start the cycle of the tank itself. For some of my tanks running sponge only it can help to put a little bag of ceramic media on the top of the sponge near the uplift tube, but it's not a requirement. Having the hardscape and other surfaces should be fine to house the bacteria. You're going to have to restart the cycle and dose bacteria from the bottle simply because you're treating the tank itself with the antibacterial meds. Following that, if you still have issues, I would treat the tank with salt and hope that sanitizes the bacterial or biological issue going on. (Meaning that whatever it is cannot sustain life in saltwater).

Yeah, agreed. I think the footprint of a 20L might be "enough" I believe it's the same as a 29G but slightly lower height. I can verify, they swim fast. Very fast. They also jump when scared so a tall tank is helpful to give them some free area to swim around. They love to go in and out of a lot of holes and investigate things, they enjoy caves and grazing all over surfaces. They hover a lot, they dart around when scared or spooked but if they are the tank boss they are extremely dosile and calm. The mouth is designed like a panda Garra/carp or something, they really prefer (especially rainbow sharks) to graze on algae and stuff. I have had mine with shrimp of various sizes and never had any issues in any setup. But yeah, absolutely. I would recommend minimum of a 40B. The reason why I suggested it is simply because I believe the RTBS is a bit more difficult to get, rainbow sharks are a lot more common and I don't know specifically if they are allowed in smaller setups. For the RTBS, 40B specifically, 75G preferred. 55 is really too narrow.

Congratulations on the awesome tank, very nice! I will answer your question with a question.... Have you considered some Corys? Everything you're mentioning, the white clouds, the danios, (and a lot of varieties of Corys too) are cooler temperature species. So they should actually be doing well together. Once the plants grow a bit their behavior will level out. A few options you have is to consider a different source for the fish (maybe aquahuna works for you) to try to find some danios that work a bit better in your water.

There are a lot of different thicknesses of styrofoam. There's a way to do it properly. I went option b. I mention it only for the sake of someone doesn't have any other option to level out a tank placement. (Kind of in a situation with that on my end after the move)

I have a red tailed black shark. I would recommend something like that (depending whatever the other stocking is). Rainbow shark is a more community friendly option. Tons of personality and a very beautiful fish in my experience. I don't know if a 20 is Enough space, however. Option 2 would be a species tank, just get more of them. White clouds are the go to for me for something like that.

Mine used to love the sera spirulina onips. I haven't heard of the brand you mentioned. Hikari and Xtreme has them but they are a slightly different thing than the onip product.

If you ever need to, Google search "aqueon critical dimensions" for basically everything. Good ol engineering department hooked us up. Let me check my sheet. Yep. 330. If the dresser or whatever it is supports the corners of the tank, should be more than fine. Compared to other tanks you're not trying to hold up a massive tank but one that is generally "heavy". 29Gs to flex a lot, so it's pretty critical to have a good stand. Mine, I always stress when I do a water change and lean on the tank rim or whatever. If you watch the gap on the center of the tank, front to back in the middle of the glass panel, empty the water and then you'll see how much it does move. I kind of wish my 29g had a brace on it. Custom aquariums should make em. 😉

I use the first one for my 55g. There is definitely a trick to putting it together. I mention that because some of the reviews claim issues and fitment concerns. Second to that, you can also make it into a shelf by using wood and adding a flat piece of wood to the top shelf. Currently using mine as a shelf in the closet, I got it for a 55g that I upgraded to a 75G. Essentially you don't want the bottom plate of the tank to have pressure bending / warping it. Someone once suggested to me to just use a yoga mat type material. I highly recommend that approach. Styrofoam, used with caution, is for the sake of clearing out any inconsistencies in the surface to make it closer to true. I don't really trust it. But I am certain there is videos on YouTube with more information. A lot of the bigger content creators use styrofoam. There are definitely some rules on how.

It can be normal yes, it happens with sand and stuff too sometimes. If you're worried about gas specifically, take rocks and the sponge out of the tank, move the substrate around gently with your hand to push debris into the column and then perform a water change,

Did you rinse it? Eventually it calms itself. Use some filter floss and then polish the water to clear out the cloudiness if you're having a persistent issue.

If you wish, make sure there's something in the tank for them to hide in and graze on. Coop has some of those coconut moss things, but basically something like that would work well.

Is there any sort of a cave? I hope someone else can clarify, you can also ask the shop to confirm what temperature they should be at? The website I saw recommended 78-85, and I would try starting at about 82 if possible. They also may benefit from salt while everything is going on for QT and you can try dosing meds one at a time instead of loading the tank up. Because you're using a sponge, it might be difficult to make sure the tank is clear of meds and there might be some residuals causing stress. You might want to just clean it well or have some method for running carbon in between each med to clear the water for the fish and reduce stress. Something is causing stress. Likely culprit is oxygen (seems fine), PH (seems fine), or Temp (should be fine). I would also add on there environment and just making sure that the fish has a lower light, comfortable tank or even a place to find some cover. Just a piece of wood works, but something in there. How is water hardness? I'm watching this now to verify what temperature is recommended. Edit: yes. Absolutely I would check what the store is running for temp. It very could be the transition that is causing issues and a jump or drop in temp. Make sure the fish has some salt if they need it to help as well, some cover. If you *still* have issues then I would dose one at a time to reduce stress even further.

Shrimp are definitely a good option depending on what type of water you have and how they will handle hardness and PH and stuff. As for a cleaner crew, I think Cory's make a lot of sense of a sand sifter, ram type of fish that will roam around the bottom and eat up some of that leftover food. Plecos generally make more of a mess but can help with algae. There often isn't enough algae but they will help with it. I usually lean towards shrimp and corys and they have a lot lower hit to the waste for me compared to something like snails and plecos. I would caution you with corys based on information and research and just to be very careful about which you select. Higher temperature means lower oxygenation and they often prefer cooler tanks typically for that reason. There absolutely are some species that live in warm water and will do fine warmer but it's all depending on where you're able to get some of them.

Can you show the setup you have for the tank? I ran into an issue with some other species of rams and it was temperature based (yours seems good). I would be interested to see if you're having an oxygenation issue. When I ran into issues I definitely noticed a lackluster behavior and the fish seemed very dejected and out of sorts. Please also share water testing parameters if you can just to double check everything.

I think you'd dig a lot of Jimmy's videos and the stuff that he does with his tanks. I would suggest white clouds. Very beautiful fish.

Thanks. Best of luck

You only need prime after the water changes, Stability you can do for a week while the tank gets up to running (or once every few days after that point). The stress guard and prime are doing the same thing, so you definitely don't need both. Stress guard should be something along the lines of prime (water conditioner) with aloe or seachem's special sauce in its mixture to help slime coat. water change day: Prime only required, dose ferts. Daily or as needed: stress guard / stability. https://seachem.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115003985794-FAQ-Can-I-use-Seachem-StressGuard-together-with-

Looks good. If you can, push the HoB to the right side (I totally understand your hiding the input pipe and stuff behind the wood). The only reason I mention it is that the output on that hob right now is the middle of the tank, then you have the sponges over to the right, all of your flow is focused on that right side. you might have a dead spot on the front corner of the tank. It should be absolutely fine, but just a very minor tweak. Once your plants grow in I would think the flow and such is balanced out a bit and there's less of a concern. If it's moved slightly right, the input is at the center and then you just really need to worry about keeping the corners and sides cleaned. I just did a water change on mine so that's done for the weekend 🙂 I hope the fish are doing well and enjoy the clean tank. The substrate looks fine, I don't see any reason you'd have any issues with that sand or anything going on with the hardscape materials used.

nope that includes what you need. Depending on things like plants, fish load, food amount, and what types of plants you're using you may need to dose easy iron but I think you're perfectly fine with what you're doing. Try doing a dose every other day and see if that gets your plants a bit happier (and lowers the algae). Essentially, 75G tank, let's say it's a 8 pumps every 3-4 days (16 per week). I would suggest trying to "up that" to 5-6 pumps every 2 days (slightly more than 18 pumps per week). The bottle directions are correct, but your plants may be indicating they are missing some nutrients and simply need more ferts. You have a good amount of plants, so it makes sense. Edit: Especially with the stem / floaters, that is very likely the issue. The floaters love ferts.

looks like black beard algae. Nitrate is a little low. What is your dosing schedule for micro/macro fertilizers? Your plants probably want it up at about 20ppm (30-40 for high tech CO2 tank)

Nothing special. Do what you do during a normal water change. you can let it run (and the HoB) with floss for whatever amount of time (no need to run it more than an hour) and then clean them in a clean bucket of water with dechlorinator. After that, add your ferts and what not back in and your media

that will work perfect. It could just be gas bubbles, it's a new tank and sand takes a little bit of time to settle. most substrate will hold some air but it shouldn't be anything major like that. If you have any major concerns with what you saw, toss in some water and then rinse it again just to make sure you did everything you could and to release whatever it is that you have going on.