nabokovfan87

I would use the stratum you have, just make sure you cap it and then you're set. Bottom feeders or cleanup I would add some corydoras for food on the bottom and bottom activity, but in terms of a cleanup crew I would just have as many amano shrimp as you can in there. None of those fish would be bothered or bother the shrimp and the shrimp will do everything you're looking for.

Cory has a few older blog style videos where he borrowed a par meter for a week. He did some measurements with and without a lid. It's not easy to search/find it on youtube, but those are out there as well.

I would put all the fish you have into aq advisor and make sure you don't have any issues with parameters and verify stocking is fine. Size seems to be fine and the real question is just going to be aggression in each species as it grows.

Add some anibias and just give the tank time. Easiest plant to keep going and won't cause too many issues. You shouldn't need a HoB for clearing up the water. You can wrap the sponge filter in some filter floss for a day or so and that might do the same thing. If you have issues after 3-4 days then you might have some dead spots or be struggling to cycle. Keep an eye on ammonia and nitrates and see what happens. Just have to give the tank some time for the filter to work. If you have a HoB sitting around, then by all means. But I wouldn't go and get one just for this. It'll work itself out eventually.

Bentley Pascoe on YouTube had a plant 3.0 guide that is where I'd tell anyone to start. Best of luck. Lid means some refraction. It's best to not have a lid but obviously it means the light is going to take some water and that the watersports on the light (or the lid) will make it less effective. I always run lids and just try to keep them clean.

Some may work, but this one mentioned specifically has it printed on the glass not to use with water. It is not designed with that weight and stress load in mind. What I was saying was, you should take advantage of the $/gal sale instead of hoping this tank you got doesn't burst. It's not manufactured using the same materials and same strength parameters. It will eventually fail. It's just a question of when. I guarantee you some are compatible and can be used for either. Some turtles and other animals need water as well. That being said, the one you mentioned specifically calls out not to use water. There are guides online regarding swapping sealant and glass panels. I'm just speaking from my own thought process, getting the raw materials to do that vs. going to go and get one for $40 or so isn't worth the hassle for me. You also need a stand to support the filled weight, it's a lot.

Yeah, I vote Anubias Barteri as well.

Ok so. If it was my tank: 1. Add carbon for 2 weeks 2. Add salt 3. Add some alder cones or something to lower PH. See how the fish are doing at that point. Any fish with cottonmouth need to be in QT right away, observation. I was reading other threads on treatment and how to proceed with that. Definitely more to dive into as far as the best method for treating those fish in QT. As for the tanks itself and how you handle cycling, keep an eye on parameters and report back with the new results each day. Once we have a trend and can see any changes we will have an idea of what is going on. Hillstream loach, danios, otos, and tetras are all going to want a tank around 72-74 is what I'm seeing and how I've kept mine. High oxygenation for the hillstream loaches and otos as well. Not saying this is what's going on, but something to look into while we watch the tanks for a little bit. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/neon-tetra-disease Treatment of fish in QT: https://www.thesprucepets.com/columnaris-disease-in-aquarium-fish-1378480#toc-symptoms-of-columnaris-in-fish

What is KH and GH?

Just for clarification. What do you mean "seeing the issue"? Fish showing illness or do you specifically mean low (or near zero) values. If you can. For each tank. Run a test of everything. Size: Temp: Filter: Stocking: GH: KH: Ammonia: Nitrite: Nitrate:

The only variable and issue here is constant treatment of anti-bacterial meds. That may have killed the cycle if that is indeed an issue. Uncycled tank = ammonia builds Cycled tank = nitrite and nitrate builds.

I'm fairly confident that a tank 5 months old is cycled. Ammonia at 0 (or low), 0 nitrite, some nitrate would be what you're looking for. Ammonia above 0 just means too much bioload or food, which would cause the spike to be visible. Safety measure or not. Don't change anything said above (carbon, salt, time, and letting the fish recover). All you need to add is that you would add in bacteria from a bottle for a week. As long as you have a decent filter and it's been setup, I'm willing to say you're likely fine. Tanks don't seem overstocked, good water change schedule explains low values.

They have them at the "home improvement" stores but you can get a plug in the sink for drinking water. You can use this to fill your tank (likely need to prep the water ahead of time because it will take a little while to run through the filter). It's essentially the same filters used for RODI systems but under the sink, a bit smaller footprint and they come with 3-5G tanks to hold water. I'm in a similar situation to you, where this is just life. It's a bit more economical to replace the filters every 6 months or year (and better quality filters) than the over the counter pitcher or faucet style ones that have to be replaced often for water like this. Example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Under-Sink-Dual-Flow-Water-Filtration-System-GXK285JBL/206501304?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-RM-F_DYNM-G-D26P-026_009_WATER_TREAT-GE-NA-NA-SMART-NA-NA-MK492773300_9016830460_FY22_32_RM1&cm_mmc=Shopping-RM-F_DYNM-G-D26P-026_009_WATER_TREAT-GE-NA-NA-SMART-NA-NA-MK492773300_9016830460_FY22_32_RM1-71700000089386425-58700007544697375-92700067951203704&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2M_uxuSH9wIVQh6tBh2l7goFEAQYASABEgLyjfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds or better yet is something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/ISPRING-3-Stage-Under-Sink-High-Capacity-Tankless-Drinking-Water-Filtration-System-Includes-Sediment-2x-Cto-Carbon-Block-Filters-US31/306703659?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-206501304-_-306703659-_-N&

easy green weekly (or after each water change can work) and root tabs should be used every 3-6 months? You might just have a very overly intensely "fertilized" substrate now. I know you're going through a lot right now. I would take a step back and just.... try to not dump stuff in the tank. Add carbon to the filter to get the water cleaner. Run that for 2 weeks minimum and see how the fish respond (activity, not illness) At that point, dose some salt, remove the carbon, and give the fish some time to recover and regain some strength. THEN decide what you need to treat or cull or move to another bin to treat separately and monitor. As for feeding, stick to once every other day, then feed them once a day. Give them time to recover, salt will also help with some of them being backed up. This is the lowest stress method to help the fish help themselves. Since they are generally all overfed. You might consider not feeding them for minimum one week. If you are feeding only protein and heavy protein foods that might be the issue as well (they need something for digestion).

Cory does have some videos on it. BUT. This is the "newer" version and more of a name brand I guess. And yep. not sure why we can't get a more affordable freshwater version of this. BUT it is what it is. https://www.redseafish.com/hardware/reefdose/

I used one... it was called..... aquarium note. It doesn't tell you if its good/bad (version 2 might) but it's close to what you're wanting. The main use is just to record it so you have a log and can view changes over time, log tanks and stocking, a lot of information.

yes please! To tag on another idea earlier. A "soft close" lid as well so I don't have the handle slip and scare the heck out of the fish.

That's just because it's McMaster Carr. You can likely find them also from PC Modding community in use with watercooling. The issue is just going to be what is the finish and is that fish safe.

fluval makes one. available in the big box stores pretty regularly. I found this, feel like I need to have one now for some "testing". Sometimes the marine hobbyist just have interesting things to use. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aqua-gadget-accudrip-acclimator-one-pack.html?brs-source=mdredir

Basically, you don't want the heat next to the impeller. there's some stress / longevity reasons for that. I would love to have a HOB that had an in-line output (the pump feeds the output itself) so that I can use some of the in-line CO2 systems or other UV systems that are available in the canister filter side of things. That being said, at that point you might as well get a canister filter. So.... then we are back to using a HoB that doesn't weigh too much, has a good intake sub pump to prime the box itself if the power goes out, then the main pump inside the cavity that is controlled via something like an arduino/microcontroller to prevent damage. This is also where you get the I/O connectivity with the heater, sensors, temperature, UV, etc. that all can connect to a wifi or bluetooth chip and then you have the option to connect that to an LED or to your phone. HOB + Microcontrollers + a good programmer and some IO. should be some fun.

A lot of that happens from the phones with mic permissions. SUPER weird stuff. Absolutely. I will have a conversation and then see it show up.

nice work. Nice scape and perfect choice on the contrast between the rocks and the substrate. I dig it!

are you growing it floating or is the anubias attached and then you're taking off portions that way? I would think you want 3-4 leaves, potentially 3 showing a new one growing. Hard to say what is "best". Sounds awesome, best of luck on continued success.

yes. always. every time. LOL. I would recommend using snail traps. if you have dragonstone (or something where snails can get inside the hardscape and not be seen) you're likely going to need to remove it and check for them. Following that, going through the same thing you went through with my tank, I would take a look at something like: https://www.thesprucepets.com/zebra-loach-1381072 You will need a larger tank to keep them long term, but short term, they can get in there and eat up some snails.

Between Dosing Equilibrium, Epsom salt (magnesium), and/or crushed coral you should be able to cover water changes. Depending what you actually have to do, it might be worth getting a food safe water storage container, adding a pump head and treating it like you're running an RO system / or saltwater. the big question is what is the testing going to be after 24, 48, 72 hours. It might take time for the PH or other things to stabilize. Aerate the bucket and keep an eye on it if you can. Considering the shrimp and snails you might just want to get plaster of paris (crushed coral) and/or get some wonder shells. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh