nabokovfan87

It does bottle / limit the genetics. But in general, no it isn't an issue in any other facet. Maybe someone has the same type and can trade some shrimp with you? I think raising the shrimplets in a QT tub with repashy powder / bacter AE will give you a much higher hatch rate with these ones until they are a few weeks old. I believe goliad farms' blog is a great resource for this one. I want to say via video or some of their gofundme questions they answered it really well. He's one of those people I would love to discuss breeding genetics for weeks and learn as much as possible. Charles is phenomenal and highly skilled in that field.

Looks like that dreaded stuff I'm dealing with. One tip I will recommend to help out is to try to cut it off of all of your equipment and then do a big clean. If you can, some SAEs in there would be really useful. In terms of equipment, I had similar issues to what you're showing here. I used the type of sponge used for dishes, took the filter to the sink and went as hard as I could at it. (that way all the little tufts didn't float around the tank and spread further) There's some on the sponge too, maybe the angels are eating it and it got sucked into the prefilter?

Yeah, that's one of the only bacterial meds I'm seeing available for you @Ron.h 😞 Botanicals is also another great thing to use as well. Alder cones or Indian Almond Leaves / Cattapa leaves if you have some. The corydoras is extremely pale. Salt+Oxygen (airstone) is a must right now just for the sake of trying to give it some life. Because the corydoras is very, very heavily stressed right now I am not sure what level of salt is appropriate here. Not enough, it won't have the desired effect, but too much and that might take things the other way. I generally always dose 1/2 cup (US) per 10G. I am leaning towards recommending a 1/3 cup per 10G dose just due to the situation here. I would highly recommend having very, very good oxygenation for this fish. Not insane flow to the point of the fish not being able to relax / hide as need be, but purely airstone(s) as you need to because of what the salt and meds will do to the viscosity of that water. If it was a 10-20 Gallon (20-70L) situation I would run 2 of them, 40B (150L+) I would have 3, etc. In terms of meds.... You would dose esha-ndx on day one, make sure the tank is blacked out for anything with levamisole as it's light sensitive. You would dose that med, blackout tank for 24 hours. Then on the following day you'd want to siphon the substrate, change water, and then dose in your salt, esha 2000 (and if you had it around, the esha gdex). Treatment is based on the directions on the package, and if there's any discrepancy or confusion we can review and discuss as need be. The esha website does specify it is safe to use gdex+2000.

Levamisole / esha-ndx would be used for internal worms. @Colutthis list might be helpful to find some equivalents. https://www.bsavalibrary.com/content/formulary/backmatter/exotic-petsvendors

Fritz expel p Do you have esha 2000? Trying to look up all the MSDS sheets so we can see what is in everything, website doesn't list much. You're looking for external parasites as well as gram negative bacterial meds.

Feed repashy powder ~3x a day. Hopefully your further research is successful. Congratulations on the fry.

Yeah, I was just looking at stocking and temp requirement differences. I was checking some random article for the pearl and it mentioned that the species needs Betta type of temps and I'm assuming that's too warm for some of the others in the tank? I had a ram, moved it from a tank I was breaking down to the community tank and within a few days it passed. It's entire personality went downhill and the poor guy was just suffering and it took me a few months to realize what went wrong. That's what came to mind when you mentioned the lack of energy. Given what you had just mentioned, it might be something like the above situation, or it could be having issues adjusting to the new temperature and surroundings and just taking time to acclimate. It's tough. Dean mentioned because he keeps some species super warm that he takes weeks to bring them down to lower the shock and stress when they leave his care.

Maybe temperature?

Agreed @Cinnebunsmmaybe they are just fish that don't sleep. My pandas can either be relaxing or swimming around doing up downs and hunting for food. My black corydoras have always been nightowls, but after treating for parasites and worms and all that they are way more active during the day now as well. (Especially the fry born in my water)

I feel like it's all of my fish!? I have probably 2 dozen videos from the past year of fish behavior at night! Amanos are a lot of fun. Plecos are usually out doing their thing too. Grace the shark is just a ton of fun some nights to watch her patrol. Corydoras as always, so much fun when they decide to have a late night party.

Very sorry for your loss @Ahughes1805 Sounds like swim bladder issue or something called pineconing. This could be due to what foods are being feed (too much protein, fish becomes "backed up" so to speak). I would recommend looking into those two and please feel free to ask any questions you may have here. We're all happy to help! 🙂

@Chick-In-Of-TheSea did you ever see any discoloration on the tail (light coloration on the tail section of the body, not the tail rays) when monitoring or treating your fish? @Karen B. What do you feed this fish weekly? The two relevant diseases I think would be columnaris or Dropsy given what you're seeing on the fish.

Please provide a side profile shot if possible so we can see the white items on the fish in further detail.

Are the fish in QT or are they in the main tank still? There has been a few reports of something similar in other threads, let me grab it for reference. I would recommend starting with Kanaplex if you have that on hand. It is very likely a bacterial issue and it sounds like you're dealing with something pretty intense. Aquarium salt is also a viable option to help out the corydoras. If you're uncomfortable with dosing salt I can provide my methods as well as some technical documents on it's safety for use with corydoras. Secondly, whatever the situation is, I would recommend adding an airstone to the tank that these fish are in / were in. Third, I would also suggest getting some polyguard if you don't have that on hand in case you need it as well. PH is fine, temp is fine, I don't see any issues with their care compared to my own. I'm very sorry for your struggles and that you've been losing so many fish. Hopefully we can get this sorted out quickly! Also, welcome to the forums. (cc @Odd Duck @Colu )

Might be an egg bound female or could be pineconing.

@Matt Butzin That looks awesome, very unique piece! In my case, I spent the day watching the fish be silly and pester the new tank inhabitant for no reason. They were fine with him yesterday, but today they decided to chase him around. I did a very late night water change (skipped the filters as usual on this tank) and dosed in all the appropriate things. I realized... I'm going down a rabbit hole and I really don't understand why or what's going to actually matter long term. I am currently dosing in 1 item, might need to be dosing in 3-4+. This led me down a rabbit hole of researching a variety of dosing chemicals which are stupidly NOT AVAILABLE locally simply because they don't sell in high enough volume at the big box stores and never will. Paying 3x the price on amazon isn't a great solution either. Between the alkaline buffer, acid buffer, neutral regulator, alkaline regulator, acid regulator, equilibrium, trace, and whatever might actually be useful, it's been pretty weird to just tangentially look into the back of labels and sort through what might be useful and what isn't really worth looking at for the situation I'm finding myself in and needing to have on hand. So then I randomly went looking into some of the brightwell aquatics items. It's definitely a rabbit hole of it's own just to try to find out what on earth the product actually does! Buzz words and label hype aside. It's just been a frustrating few hours trying to sort through the muck and find quality information about items. Even a bag of substrate, literally had me confused between gravel size vs. sand size, the exact same item, but one is marketed to buffed water by upping your KH/PH by 0.1-0,5 and the other is marketed for 8.5+ PH and african cichlids. I'll figure it out another time, but that's been my day.

I miss my loaches..... This was similar to the one I had. Very, very blue markings that are really nice. Very cool seeing all the hillstream loach photos today. What a fun fish to have!

Oh geeeeez. Please stay safe you all!

Substrate, no. Plants, no. You would want to stagger removing the filters, changing bioload, and making sure that you do so gradually. If that isn't an option and you need to use the current filtration for where the Bettas are being moved to then you'd want to take a few precautions. A. Add in new ceramic. media so that you can start getting it filled with beneficial bacteria. B. Remove half of your current ceramic media when you remove the filters and then take that and place it in the 55G resting on top of your sponge filter near the flow. (The other half stays with the filter and goes to the new tank) C. Add on your fish slowly, give the tank time to adjust to the new regime. If you have 5 Bettas in there now then I would recommend only adding 5-8 fish to start. D. Once your new tank is "solid" then you can remove the used ceramic media and use it elsewhere. Optional, use bacteria in a bottle in both situations. Especially after adding new fish to the new tank and adding the new fish to the 55g.

1. Corydoras 2. Amano Shrimp 3. Anubias (maybe moss) 4. 75G 5. Caribsea Sand 6. Slate / Seiryu Stone 7. AI Lights, no idea which one, never used them before. 8. Fluval X07 series (never used it, let's assume no pump issues) 9. Siphon 10. Easy Green ORD. Very cool idea!

anytime I hear any noise from any filter the first thing I do is unplug it and check the impeller. Something might not be set in properly or slime or anything and it's rubbing against the impeller shaft / pump housing. As long as you have water in there, you should be able to prime it. (I understand both of you mentioned having issues). One thing I would verify is that in and out on the hoses are correct, try to prime it per their directions. Hopefully they can help or something above helps fix the issue you're having. Ironically, I'd love to have a 307 / 407 right now just to see how they are. Prices are insane.

😂 Love it.

Looks generally healthy to me. Some minor yellowing. Probably a good idea to track down some iron or something.

"Safe for Invertebrates such as shrimp."

Literally about to dose my tank with iron now. I'll check the bottle and see what it says with regards to invertebrates and snails. They have issues specifically with heavy metals I believe, the biggest one being copper. Keep in mind a lot of aquarium stuff is steel (stainless) and there's a lot of other metals common in there. Animals do need some metals in their diets and that's where a lot of things like iron coming from protein helps them out. Awesome question and I am intrigued as well. Definitely makes you think. (I've never been afraid to dose the flourish stuff with my shrimp, only copper. I'm fairly certain my nerited had iron in their lives but that was so long ago it's difficult to remember perfectly)