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  1. Thanks for doing that, I'll be able to reference your testing in a live stream now 😉
  2. Is it leaking at the point where the glass meets the wood or at the actual corner of 2 wood pieces?
  3. The latest security update for the forum was gonna break it, so it had to be disabled.
  4. I think @Candiis making a trip there. I won't be making the trip this time.
  5. Nice, always cool when they do that. Usually over the next 30-60 days it'll probably die back and go dormant for a couple months. Then come back to growing again.
  6. Nice, it's rare to see a mbu puffer do that. I've only seen it a handful of times myself.
  7. I've never needed to adjust the water outside of crushed coral or aragonite to spawn them myself. I bet you wouldn't either.
  8. Interesting, I wouldn't have guessed that either. I always used lots of plants, but maybe I'll toss in a coconut or apisto cave for mine.
  9. A lid keeps in heat and moisture. Each tank you have that is uncovered introduces higher electricity bills, and the possibility of mold long term. Without lids, I'd invest in a humidistat at least to make sure you aren't creating an environment to cause damage to walls or people.
  10. Cory

    Ich and fin rot?

    If this were my tank, I'd lower the tank temp to 73 or so. I'd be using salt in the form of 1 tablespoon per 3 gallons. Then add a dose of ich X when it arrives, and monitor it for a day or 2. Repeat the dose of ich x, after a water change, and replace the salt removed as needed. The ich, and bacterial infection that is present currently can be treated alone by salt technically. The elevated temperature of 76, is right on the top end of what goldfish find comfortable, coming down a few degrees can make sure this isn't a cause of stress. I'd also take a look at the KH of the aquarium and hardness. When using the term "around" it can be a big difference on some things and not on others. Most likely you'll be ok from what the parameters have been described so far.
  11. The problem you're encountering is your tank is not in balance. When light, and nutrients aren't in balance, the result is algae. Once you have algae, it will also be competing against plants. We have many videos and articles on balancing an aquarium. I'm not sure what the par of your light is, but that will remain a constant as it's on a timer. Then depending on the plants you have/growth you adjust the fertilizing. To get back on track, I'd probably purchase something like a Siamese algae eater or flag fish to start working on the staghorn algae. It also looks like you have some diatom algae as well, however your mystery snail is probably working on this. With just the crypts in the tank, it'll be hard to balance as they need to little light, and feed from the substrate. You may find benefit in turning down your light if possible, or raising it higher, until your plant load is more dense. This will be a learning experience over probably 6-8 weeks for you to dial in lighting and nutrients. Fight off the algae and get the plants growing instead of algae.
  12. At the moment no intention of selling them. We don’t have a source on wholesale pricing for them. So they’d be more then $100 to sell them.
  13. Yep, I’ve never had a problem keeping them on it.
  14. Had a great time yesterday. Just woke up as Both Zenzo and I were beat! I’m sure we will do another one as this was just a test. Zenzo has notes on how we can improve. And remember this is meant to be a traveling event that can be replicated anywhere. Coming to a state or country near you 🙂
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