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  1. I don't seem to have problems doing it, but every situation will be different. At this point, you may be leaving illness behind if you move them. It's a lower chance, but still a chance.
  2. Should a problem with a drip/change system at all. Possibly be a problem on large water changes, even then I doubt it with airstones running.
  3. I can't speak for other manufacturers. However it's well known that mold/fungus grow in fertilizer. A manufacturer will want to put in a chemical to prevent that. Seachem Excel can be used to do that as well. I recommend storing all fertilizers out of direct light. My advice would also be pick one that doesn't have that issue going forward.
  4. I suspect lots of this comes down to testing methods, possible contamination, not waiting correct times etc. The strips were tested vs known scientific solutions. They were right on. Then we tested with sterilized API kits, and digital meters. All were very close in our testing, which was done by myself, Randy, and Dean. We also had the store using them for a few months before going into production. I don't want to stifle people's tests. By all means keep testing etc. I think the test strips are accurate, especially for the level that an aquarist would need.
  5. What are your water parameters? Tell us more about your setup? This is a possibility, however this would be a wide spread issue I would think. As an example. Dean, has a 75g that he doses easy green in, with ember tetras, and hasn't had any problems.
  6. Just to add, it's on the home page of desktop of our youtube channel.
  7. I just sorted my colony when I moved them 2 days ago. only about 8 made it into the new pond the rest will end up at the shop as assorted swordtails. Any that had any red on them didn't make the cut. These fish are pretty rare to find good quality ones. I see them maybe a couple times a year on aquabid. Maybe at some point mine will be breeding more true. I got mine from Karl Trochu, this strain he made from scratch so it'll be some work to get them breeding true.
  8. I personally think we are treating the result, instead of the cause. From the pictures, I can see the plants may be deficient. They've consumed all of your hardness most likely. How are you fertilizing them? I would up some water changes, assuming you have more hardness in your water. You've probably already added something to help bring it up. From there, I would take the infected fish and put it in a quarantine tank at 1 tablespoon of salt per gallon. I believe that this illness is taking hold because the fish have a few stress factors going on. This happens when we as aquarists get busy, and see that everything is doing "fine" for quite a while. I personally am not sure that continuing to dose the entire colony with meds is going to solve this and may just create even more stress. I believe for fish to get through a disease, we have to eliminate the factors that brought it on. Most often this is stress. Usually it's related to their environment, water parameters, temperature. Make sure food is fresh, consider soaking food in a vitamin like vitachem perhaps. All these are usually good steps to get an entire colony back on track.
  9. I'm not sure if alita air pumps are linear. The one I own uses diaphragms. You can also see they sell diaphragm repair kits.
  10. Had a developer working on the site. It was turned on, turning it off then caused the site to crash. Currently going to need them to do more work.
  11. He used the MJ1200 cobalt pump. He's now using an aquarium co-op test product that should launch this year 😉
  12. I haven't tested this. I recommend waiting till you finish the cyropro.
  13. We are working on a product that should solve this problem. Hopefully it'll launch sometime this year.
  14. Most likely hydrogen sulfide gas if it had a rotten egg type smell.
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