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About Me

Found 12 results

  1. Hey everyone, Well, it's finally here. Construction day. I have a few hypotheses that'd I'd like to test out, but obviously I'm a sample of one. I do have a bit of experience battling these stinkin' things and I feel like it's the right time to dive in and figure out the best way to solve these issues. The goal being, after these tests are completed I can provide a guide for others with a tier of mods to make on their HoBs and to resolve the issues they have as best as possible. Tier 1 being the least effort and subsequent tiers requiring a bit more effort. One thing I am specifically not going to do is to jam a bunch of sponge in the pump area as a method to try to stop mulm from going into the pump area through the swiss cheese that is the skimmer and the pump housing cover. Let's get started with Tier 1 (sponges) and I will sketch out the concept for next steps. I want to reference this video as a premise, but obviously the goal being we want to make this visually look good. Problem Statements: 1. There is an excess of openings on the intake and this forces most of the intake of the filter to be provided via the skimmer, pump housing cover, and minimally from the inlet pipe itself. The reduces the viability of something like an intake sponge and causes many issues for nano fish, flat bodied fish, or plants being sucked into the intake. 2. The flow path of the water itself in the pump is not well defined and the water constantly avoids filter media and filtration. 3. The pump is incredibly strong and might be too strong in some instances. the flow into the HoB filter basket can cause bypass simply due to the flow strength. (more on this later) 4. The filter basket design is very restrictive and tolerance on sponges is often undersized, which caused bypass when you do manage to get the water into the filter media basket. 5. Because of flow strength, media order, and bottom to top flow design, it's difficult to use something like purigen because of the high flow / bypass that forces lighter media off the top of the media basket and into the tank itself fairly easily. I want to attack these 1 by 1 and demonstrate each of these, but I will do this in a follow up post. First up we have the easiest thing we can do. Simply cutting new sponges that allow water into the basket itself. For the Tidal 35, this alone has resolved most of the bypass issues and has given me a few notes. Let's take a look at why this helps and what is really going on. If we look at the filter box itself and the basket, this is what we see. There is a bit of space below the basket itself. If Seachem feels like it, they can resolve issue #3 by adding some baffles in this space. This also means we might be able to use something like eheim mech (thanks pondguru for the idea) to diffuse the flow itself. The basket does have "baffles" or sort to hold up the sponge and this is partly just due to manufacturing and wanting to have a clean edge and encourage flow internally. It also gives the sponge itself a flat surface to rest on, somewhat. What I have realized is that by adding more media or adding crushed coral in the basket, this compresses the sponge into these grates and emphasizes the bypass even further. From the typical "pond foams" that you can purchase for filter mods with the bumps you'll end up with something that is slightly thinner in profile and this might also be easier to compress when loaded with heavy media. So, if we take a look at what is really going on internally we see the standard foam (right side above) which sits flush against the openings. If we swap this foam out with "bumpy foam" you see a bit of room for the water to flow into the filter basket. Realistically this does not fix anything, but it really does give you a bit more time for the basket to do it's job. Right now, after a deep clean I can see bypass almost immediately with a stock sponge. Normally I prefer to run 2 sponges, but there is often an issue with the seachem products. As mentioned above there is often some gaps out of the box. (Issue #4). Second to this issue, as you add more layers of sponge, each layer needs to have a slightly larger dimension outward. the media box itself opens up as it increases in height. This means that cutting sponge can be tricky, but it's very easy to achieve this. Once you get the hang of it, there isn't much difficulty and it can easily be done with a pair of scissors in between a water change. Here's the setup. I am setting up a NEW 29G aquarium in the living room, and I have the video above as a template. I also have my own experiences and testing, mods, and attempts to fix this issue previously on 5-6 versions of this product. I've used everything from the 35 to the 75 for a few years on each model in a variety of tank setups. Right now I have a newly purchase Tidal 55 for the new tank. I am going to be modding the filter and adding those parts into the existing setup one by one. I will have 1 stock filter, 1 modded filter, and be able to adjust things to test what really works well and what fixes issues (or adds more). I also want to reference this post as a deep dive into a lot of my struggles for those who want to see other photos and read a bit more about my past testing / current setup I will go ahead and record a video of the pump now, then add in the sponges and show the difference in flow. If there is an improvement, I'll continue to monitor things as the week progresses. One thing I will note as a final thought, is when I pull apart the filter, I try to pay attention to how clogged the sponge is and where is the much appearing at. Last time I cleaned it, there was a very defined grate/input pattern on the sponge and it was limited to the input side of the basket. The sponge itself was not clogged and it was only in the basket for a few days. all of the water was bypassing over the back of the basket and pretty much stopped going through the sponge/media. Let's get to it!
  2. Just received my Seachem Tidal 35 for my 10 gallon. I’m actually very surprised by the size of the media basket and how quite the filter is. I took off my Aquaclear 20 and I think the Tidal might be a upgrade. Going to let it run for a few days and I’ll update. So far I’m impressed by the sound, or lack there of, and the internal motor. No need to prime anymore. What do you guys think about the Tidal 35?
  3. Hello, I’m sorry if this was already discussed but I searched and couldn’t find anything related online or on here. I’m doing a fish in cycle and using stability and I’m on the 3rd day. Do I also dose with Prime? No signs of distress and this is a heavily planted 29 gallon. Started cycling 12 days ago with no fish but got and no nitrites yet other then .25 the first day after adding Stability. Used fritz zone before and filter sponge water from the local store and nothings happened. Since adding stability the ammonia has gone from 2 to 1 then back to 1.5 Water Ammonia - 1.5 Nitrites - 0 Nitrates - 5-10 pH - 6.6 GH - 6-7 KH - 2 fish Cardinals - 19 Betta - 1
  4. I've been in the hobby for at least a year and I've had a horrible experience with my tap water. The water is incredibly hard, over 300 ppm. I spent quite a bit of time early on chasing ph. I've had probably 30-40 guppies die off over the course of 6 months and just chalked them up to weak genetics until I brought in a some cory cats and a few common plecos to grown out for our turtle pond. None of the plecos survived (bought one at a time) and I lost a few corys. After that I stopped blaming the guppies and started blaming my water. Something had to be wrong with the water. It's not the fish, can't be after this many right? Now some of this could have been from the tank not being cycled but were talking months into it and I just can't help but think water hardness as I regularly find sediment in our shower heads and sink faucets. Fast forward to now days. I have what almost even I would consider to many tanks and hundreds of guppy fry from the pair of "indestructible" guppies. I keep 3 different type of pleco, a couple bichir, cherry shrimp, neons, cherry barbs, multiple species of cory, angels, goldeneye dwarf cichlid and I'm sure I'm forgetting something. I setup my rodi unit 6 weeks ago and have been experimenting with creating my own water. I tried just cutting it but the hardness and ph just shoot through the roof when I add it to the tank. So I bought the seachem buffers and equilibrium. I've made about 100 gallons using this stuff in batches of 20gal at a time without any accuracy. The directions of how to use these are either just that confusing or they just aren't there. I read them over and over and watch all the videos available. I still cannot understand how this is supposed to work. If anyone has any advice on how to use these products I would greatly appreciate a recipe for how they make their water. 5g,10g, 20g however you make it. I plan to buy a 55gal drum once I figure this out so any help is greatly appreciated!
  5. Seachem Prime Water Conditioner,,,this is so concentrated Im not sure how much to add to 5 gal water change
  6. Question for you all: Have you tried the Seachem Flourish Root Tabs? I am thinking of getting some because I live in Canada so I can't get the co-op root tabs. I know their fertilizer isn't the best.
  7. Do you prefer Fritz products or Seachem. I’m a life long seachem user but thinking of switching to Fritz. Would love opinions.
  8. I have a 15 gallon tank with 12 salt and pepper corydoras and 6 white cloud minnows, that's been up and running for 3 months, finished cycling 2 months ago. Yesterday I noticed my fish acting weird so I did a water test and it returned 8ppm ammonia, up from 0.25ppm 4 days ago, after which I did a 50% water change. I immediately did an 80% water change, got 0 ammonia readings. Also tested my tap water, which returned 0.25ppm ammonia. I tested the water this morning, 0.25ppm ammonia, did a 10% water change, 5 hours later I tested the water and it returned 4ppm!. What's going on? Quick answers: For the last 4 days I've been giving 1 catfish pellet and one small pinch of flake food, skipping two days. I fed one single catfish pellet before going to bed last night and haven't fed them since I don't think there is anything rotting in the tank, I haven't been able to count all 12 corydoras but I removed all of my plants and scape yesterday and didn't see any corpses. This doesn't rule out the possibility of one buried in the substrate. Last time I counted 12 was last week Doesn't appear to be a cycle crash; my ntirates are up 5ppm from 0ppm this morning Yes, it was cycled. Yes it has lots of plants, including anacharis I added 5ml of profito fertiliser within the last week I've been adding seachem with the water changes in order to keep the ammonia at bay but if anyone has any suggestions I am desperate. The "nuclear option" is to remove literally everything from the tank, put the sponge filter in a bag with tank water, drip acclimate the fish to fresh, dechlorinated tap water, and add everything back in.
  9. I have 3 of these filters and I need an idea of how to keep fry from getting pulled into the skimmer. I had a neon tetra whom got to close and I found him sucked tight to the skimmer. Need some way of attaching a thin course filter in front of it. Any ideas?
  10. Someone at my LFS was talking up the use of Seachem Cichlid Trace in their aquariums, saying it improves their fish's coloration. As my interest was spured I looked into the the product line--I noticed that the Fresh and Cichlid versions of the product appear to have the same ingredients, for one thing. Nevertheless I'm curious about these, so I'm wondering--has anyone tried Trace products, and if so, what are the use cases for it? Definitely worth it, maybe worth it, or smoke and mirrors?
  11. Ive been considering getting some seachem flourish advanced but im still on the fence about it and was wondering if anyone has any info on the product. Also does it help any plants in particular like moss or water stem plants?
  12. Hello Everyone! I’m looking for advice on getting rid of some ramshorn snails from my tank. I was over feeding and letting them breed because I had a puffer tank and I was harvesting them for food, but now I’m giving my puffer to a friend and there are so many now I just don’t want all of the snails in my tank (mostly, they creep me out- remind me of fleas on pets). I have a sera snail catcher and I use it literally every single night for over a week but there are still lots of snails and I’m just looking for a faster solution honestly- plus my Kuhli loaches and endlers keep ending up inside of the trap! Any advice For using this product? will it be safe for my other inhabitants? (Kuhli loaches, apistos, otos, tetras). Any other snail removal ideas other than “just leave them” or get assassin snails. Oh! I also don’t have any space in the tank for any snail eating loaches or a puffer unfortunately. thanks in advance!!! -Ariel
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