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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    So there's two sides to this. Your tank is going to incrementally increase in GH/KH because of the water evaporating. You top off with RO water to reduce that impact. When you do your water changes you'd mix in a % of RO water to dilute that again from the tap. You might end up with a 50-50, 60-40, or 70-30 ratio. Look into something like Seachem Acid buffer as well. The other way to go is to find species tht do well in your water. There will be some at most water parameters that are interesting. Hopefully that helps. Precondition your water if at all possible. Get a big trashcan on wheels or a water holding container and fill the base with lava rock. Add in your water with an airstone and let that "age" for at least a week before using it for water changes. Lava rock acts as the biomedia, biological filtration, which will remove things like ammonia and nitrates in the tank. You can try a deep sandbed for nitrates, but there's 1000 ways to do it and it's not very easy to get that resolved. In your water conditioning bucket, add some pathos or other plants that use the air for CO2 and you'll get those nitrates out of there real fast.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Glowlight tetras, emerald green rasboras, heck white clouds are amazing, green neons and normal neons will also have that vibrancy to the colors. You could setup a single german ram tank as long as you can crank the heat up on it. In a 10g, very doable. If you don't have one, the fluval nano / aquasky lights might be useful for that feel of a glo style tank. You can get glowing plants, use the blue lights, red lights, green lights. Pick whatever color and just use it as a place to see the fish at night. Rams are extremely personable and a ton of color.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Might be a tool to have on hand, just to verify things like tap changes in case you run into issues. I prefer the seperate KH/GH tests, but it's a tool to think about. Used a lot in EU side of the hobby.
  4. nabokovfan87
    That's tough. Very sorry for your loss.
  5. nabokovfan87
    😂 Figures! Cool stuff.
  6. nabokovfan87
    @tolstoy21hhave you ever fed it? That's awesome. I really love the slogan, the logo, and everything about it. One of the nicest things they've made!
  7. nabokovfan87
    Oh yeah! Slightly different temperament but a very similar fish. It's a "sharkminnow" species and it's normally sold as either a Red-Tailed Black shark or they do have a much harder to find all black one as well. Color on all the fins is called a rainbow shark. They like cover, like to hide under wood and they are generally going to be making lots of splashing at night and hanging out with their corydorad bros. They like to swim through crevices and swim throughs and they definitely patrol the tank like a shark. Let me know if you need anything.
  8. nabokovfan87
    some will, but some fish will be sleeping and ignore it. repashy, shrimp food, bottom feeders, are things I tend to push towards a late (just after lights out) or late night feeding.
  9. nabokovfan87
    I got mine from a hydroponics shop.
  10. nabokovfan87
    On of my favorite things about the 29 / 38 gallon tanks is that it's a vertical height where you do get to see the separation of species at different levels of the tank. For a 10 or 20L/20H there isn't much separation. For bigger tanks, of course there can be depending on which tank you have. That being one of the main features I would look at stocking a tank in terms of what do you want where. If you want hillstream loaches (borneo loaches might be a nice substitution, depending on what you're after) then you'd have something cooler in terms of temperature and you'd wand some fish that can handle that as well as some good circulation / oxygenation. Barbs, rasboras, corydoras, danios, etc. all fit that bill, but one of my favorites to have with hillstreams is white cloud mountain minnows. In my tank they basically stayed up top and didn't move. I've seen other tanks where they are going elsewhere. I didn't have a school, so I understand why my experience might be a bit different than others. There are some species of rainbowfish that would be fantastic as well. (see this blog post by the co-op) Then adding something like the emerald green rasbora or the cherry barb you mentioned might be a nice mid level swimmer in that tank. It really depends on what you're looking for and what catches your eye. I would try to have 2-3 species in the mid/upper section of the tank and then go from there. You can almost always add in a clown pleco, corydoras, hillstream (or borneo) loaches after the fact too.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Look at all that Suss! 😍
  12. nabokovfan87
    Depending on the size of the tank, I've seen people use the 5g Zero Water filters to get "cheap RODI" type of water and remove some of the hardness. It's probably a good route to go if you don't have a massive tank. If you have a bigger tank, then you can sub in some RODI water to slightly drop the PH. I can't say PH caused this, but it's just a note and a stress for corydoras. It can bring out illnesses and maybe this guy had some burns from PH which resulted in the secondary infections.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Look up the sicce zero pumps. If they have a "nano" version of something like that it would be the one to go with. That style of pump is usually ok to run dry and is made for pumping out and leaving almost no liquid in the container. I say sicce because of quality and warranty, but there are others available. For most pumpheads you're looking for 3/8 or 12mm ID tubing.
  14. nabokovfan87
    PH might be just on the edge, I'll look it up here in a second. If it gets higher, you might have issues with the corydoras at that point. Everything else seems ok. Is there any chance the corydoras ran into something or was damaged via hardscape? https://www.planetcatfish.com/common/species.php?species_id=482 Yeah, PH could be a stress factor given this source and their parameters.
  15. nabokovfan87
    What temperature is the tank? Related video on the topic.
  16. nabokovfan87
    email aco support first.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Definitely not great. Aquarium Salt, Indian Almond Leaves, and then something like Jungle Fizz tabs or Ich-X would be the place to start for fungus issues. Poor little guy. What are your tank parameters, including temperature. What else is in the tank, anyone else having issues or showing aggression towards the corydoras? CC @Colu @Odd Duck
  18. nabokovfan87
    yeah, gotta get that leak fixed. Zip tie it maybe. Yeah, we'll see. Option 2 is make one a lot longer and install it across the tank as oppose to just on the side.
  19. nabokovfan87
    Hopefully there is someone who has the DIY CO2 technique down that can chime in. 😞 From what you're describing it's just not building enough pressure somewhere to be able to push the CO2 through the diffuser. There might be a way to modify the mix so you have a slightly stronger reaction. I honestly would recommend the higher priced setup with the bottle and the standard regulators. Not to say the one you have is faulty, but just because I have been very happy with mine and having those tanks. Very much a set it and forget it mindset. Did the added holes drop the flow issues, or did it just spread them around? Some rock on that left end of the tank might give the circulation a hard obstacle and create a dead spot for the fish to relax in, lower flow area across the substrate, etc. Definitely a puzzle.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Oddly, I don't think I've ever kept a "warm tank" 😂 Heck yeah! 68 is lowest recommended for a lot of these fish. Just note that. In terms of the rosy+gold barb they are very similar size and shape. Same with Odessa barbs. They seem like the same fish but different fin lengths or color patterns. That may or may not diffuse aggression. Opposing to that you'd have something like a tiger barb or a melon barb that have a different size and shape. And as discussed lots of other options and rasbora species. CPDs are a larger species. I've also done white clouds. Emerald green rasboras are really nice as well as the kabutai. There is your traditional "pork chop" or harlequin rasbora types too. Lots of choices. Barbs, danios, minnows, loaches, rasbora are all the species I'd recommend taking a look at. 🙂
  21. nabokovfan87
    If you're using purigen and not recharging it, please just use carbon. It's much less waste and better for the environment that way.
  22. nabokovfan87
    You'd want to match temp just for the sake of eggs. In terms of corydoras and shrimp they generally prefer the same temp water change. Amanos and corydoras will handle cooler water changes and that usually triggers spawning behavior for them. For Neo / Caridina species of "fancy shrimp" you'd want to get the temp as close as possible. you can also try filling one side, draining the other if you're setup for that. There is humidity, but I definitely understand the concern and went through that myself. Start small. 1/4 tsp per day per 5-10g. Dose it every 2-3 days. I dose in 3 1/8 tsp per 5g per water change. Essentially right now if you want KH you'd half-dose the tank, let it adapt, then dose it another half dose, then let it adapt, then you should start reading something from the dosing. Slowly shifting the PH/KH up slightly. You can do small scale testing in a 5g bucket and then scale that up to your specific water change volume, add that amount to your dosing schedule when you condition or add in your water. https://www.seachem.com/alkaline-buffer.php
  23. nabokovfan87
    What is the KH in your tap, in the tank, and what you wish it was via the buffer? I would add a small amount to stabilize things, but given it's a shrimp tank you might want to slowly do so over a few weeks and then add it to your water at the higher level. More details, then I can advise on method compared to my own with the alkalinity buffer. Let it do it's thing. It gives the shrimp the calcium and minerals similar to how cows or other animals use a salt lick. The only way I'd move it would be if you're specifically using it as a water additive and not as a shrimp food (example, nano banquet block)
  24. nabokovfan87
    Corydoras, Otos, and pick a shrimp. I would vote amanos, but choose what you wish. For most breeding setups I would almost always add a clown pleco too (wood = mulm).
  25. nabokovfan87
    I've kept one angel, his name was Logan, after wolverine. Definitely good at finding food even after a big meal.
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