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  1. Hi Nerms! I feel silly asking, but is it ok to add BB after water changes if the tank is cycled and I haven't made any changes e.g. adding new fish, adding meds? My tank has been set up for more than a year and is very stable but I thought I read somewhere that you could/should add BB with water changes. I have a large bioload with four messy pea puffers in my 10g so I do ~50 percent water changes every week to keep the nitrates down around 40 ppm and have always added 1/4 cup Fritz Zyme 7 after each water change. Am I wasting product or should I just follow the "if it ain't broke ... " adage?
  2. Hello everyone, So i've essentially got an infinite amount of H2O at my disposal now that i've automated all my water changes using carbon block water filters and overflows. I'm wondering wether there's a limit for how much you can change the water before it will affect the bacteria or fish? Is 200% a week overkill when you're heavily feeding and the water being changed "gradually throughout the week" is pretreated, heated and oxygenated etc? I want to be able to over feed bucket loads of brine shrimp and not worry about clouding or ammonia spikes by doing 20-30% water changes on a drip system throughout the day. In an ideal world i'd have a drip system to feed live brine shrimp every 2 hours as-well but that's a problem for some other high-tech automation Nerm to work out 😅 I've successfully drilled all 20 of my Grow Out and Conditioning Tanks with 1/4 inch holes for attaching quick connect pipes and irrigation tube for draining water. Now drilling a few more for auto water top-offs and extra drainage on bigger tanks "it's painfully slow but doesn't really need to be much wider pipe with a drip system". Everything seems to be going smooth so far, for now i'm manually topping off the tanks every other day and they drain themselves to about an inch or two from the rim of the tank. 🤞🏻😅 I've also discovered adding a length of tube to an elbow or T-Fitting will bell siphon the tank to as low as you want and then you can fill to just under the outlet hole until you're ready to do another water change, top it off and let it siphon back down again! 😄 I use tap water filtered with carbon then catalytic carbon blocks (which filters out the chlorine + chloramines that I've discovered Melbourne Water has a small amount of in Australia) Now the plan is to set up a water pump on a solenoid to automatically fill the tanks each day through the inlet hole with a couple gallons of treated water from a big water drum hidden upstairs in the pantry haha (and auto dosing a dash of prime into the drum every other day to combat the excess ammonia that is generated when you filter out chloramines with carbon) Or perhaps I could be using Purigen or some other ammonia sucking resin for that 🤔 The third hole is going to be plugged or just extra drainage for now, but at some point I might use it for mixing RO water into specific tanks with fish that like super soft water or to trick Corydoras into breeding i've heard haha 🤣 Perhaps it can be my Brine Shrimp Dispensing Inlet when someone invents a live Brine Shrimp Generator hahaha
  3. I have cherries, sometimes they die after water change. I have heard cherries are quite hardy, but are there other shrimps that are less sensitive to water changes?
  4. I stopped water changes about 5-6 months ago and only top up tanks, its a very established aquarium 400ltr and maybe some would say is overstocked by fish. I do a water parms test every week and everything if fine so I just figured why keep changing water when params are fine? So my question is are most people doing water changes without testing the water and just doing it anyway? TBH when I was doing weekly water changes the params weren't as good as when I stopped, go figure. So do you think people should do water changes for the sake of it or only if params are out? Thoughts? Any problems for not doing water changes if params are fine?
  5. I have a 65 gallon tank. I live in an area where the winter is long and cold. During the warm months, I have been doing partial water changes of 10 or 15 gallons every two weeks, siphoning off water from the tank, dumping it in the garden, and taking water from the faucet in the back yard. In the coming winter, that will not be possible - temperature rarely goes above 20 degrees F, lots of snow, etc. I was wondering if swapping out a gallon or two every other day from an indoor source would be OK for partial water changes in winter. I could put in some plumbing etc, to facilitate water changes in winter, but that would be a pain and an expense - rather not. Tank is now about 3 months old, stable, well planted and not overstocked, ammonia level is fine, fish are generally healthy. Thoughts?
  6. Hello Fish Friends, I made a noob mistake. So my new 37 gal. planted tank cycled in about just over 3.5 weeks. I did a fishless, planted cycle. My parameters were good, plants had new growth, I had algae, everything was great! I added fish snails and shrimp, everything was still great. A few days later added some Hillstream loaches and everything was going along swimmingly. I took some filter media out of my HoB to hurriedly jump-start a quarantine tank because I had a fish arriving through the mail that I was not expecting ( long story, my previous post tells the tale. https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/topic/15305-frustrating-experience-ordering-fish-online/?tab=comments#comment-126385 ). Still everything is going good, my water parameters are stable, everything was as good as I could hope it would be. This is when I made a noob mistake. My water was cloudy and I had never changed the filter media in my HoB and it was looking pretty nasty. I figured that putting clean media in it might clear up the water. I thought it would be fine since I still have the sponge filter sponge and a large intake sponge with good bacteria on it in my tank. I did not clean the HoB at all, just replaced the media, but that was enough to get something off. A couple of days after that I started getting small spikes of ammonia and nitrites. So far I have not had ammonia over 0.25 or nitrites over 0.50 and my nitrates have been between 10-20. I have done water changes everyday since the ammonia and nitrite presented. I added Fritzyme 7 during 2 of the water changes. Still everyday, I have ammonia and nitrites. Am I doing the right thing by doing water changes everyday? I didn't add Fritzyme 7 when I did today's 50% water change because after the last two times I added it, it didn't really seem to help. Am I doing the right thing doing water changes everyday? Am I making it worse? I'm not sure what to do.
  7. I pose this question to get an idea if I am over water changing or just get an idea about what everyone else does. I personally do a 30% water change twice a week on my 17gal aquarium. It has worked great for me and my parameters are steady and the fish are extremely healthy and breeding. What's your schedule? how much and how often do you change your tanks water? P.S. this isn't really asking for advice, just peoples experiences!
  8. I saw a youtube video on water changes where they put a pump inside of a bucket to move water into the tank gently through a tube. I am interested in what is a cost effective pump, as well as whether there are pumps that can be used outside of the bucket between the bucket and aquarium in both directions?
  9. I recently watched an Aquarium Co-Op video where Cory mentioned that his indoor breeding ponds don't need water changes because his plants absorb waste. Before watching that video, I've heard that fry need very clean water to grow. It's not unusual to hear about fishkeepers doing 50% water changes 2-3x/week on fry growout tanks. I've also heard elsewhere that we need to do water changes because fish release growth inhibiting hormones. Is this a myth? If I keep my planted tanks lightly stocked, provide enough lighting, and test my water regularly to verify there is no ammonia/nitrites and minimal nitrates, can I get away with minimal water changes?
  10. So, I have head people say don't do a water change AND maintenance on your canister filter at the same time. But I also heard your supposed to use your tank water to rinse your canister items like the sponges. Never the bio-media. Seems doing a 50% water change would reduce the amount of ammonia a filter would have to process. Thus a water change would give the filter time to replace the bacteria you disturbed with your cleaning. Of course I use a bacteria prime once done. Also I test the water again after 6 hours to insure no spikes are offuring. I have a heavily populated Dicus community tank and do 50% water changes almost every other day. I have two 45 gallon trash cans on wheels I use for this. One for waste water and one to pre the new water before pumping it into the tank. Never the two are mixed. Anyway, just looking for thoughts on that. Tweaking the contents of my canister filter is always a on going project.
  11. I watched Cory’s video “How to Speed Up Your Aquarium Water Change” and the Cobalt MJ1200 isn’t available anymore. What is the best alternative? I was cheap and bought this pump, but it sucks. That dial on top of that small tube on the left side of the pump in this picture wasn’t closing off to have water flow out of a connected tube. The tube to connect a hose to on this pump has a 5/8” diameter, and I used a 7/8” tube to fit it.
  12. I'm not using commercial chemical fertilizers in my garden because of the hummingbirds, finches, tanagers, bunnies, hummingbird moths, lizards, and Western Box Turtles; instead I've been using organic fertilizer, aquarium water, and liquid kelp for years. I was just curious to see if anyone else is using their aquarium water in the garden.
  13. Hi I am leaving to go on a trip to Wisconsin to is Thursday July 15th and I have everything prepared for the fish except I don’t know what to do about water changes. I will be gone about one week maybe two and I have a 7 gallon fry tank and a 20 gallon long tank with 10 platys ! Any advice or tips would be nice thanks!!
  14. I set up this 10 gallon tank a week ago, I used potting soil under the gravel. My nitrates and nitrites are really high because of the soil and the duckweed has been doing really good. I do want to add shrimp when I get everything right and the plants are have taken hold. My question is should I do a water change now to get the nitrates down or just wait it out and let the plants take care of it?
  15. Found an adapter at the hardware store that allows me to attach a garden hose to my sink for easy tank water changes.
  16. I am a “water changer.” I know there’s healthy discussions about the subject, but I don’t mind passively admitting that I do change water on most tanks. But I if I’m honest, it’s really a chore more than a joy in the hobby. I do it... but often wish I didn’t feel the need to. Except with this tank. This is so much fun to water change! I love watching these fish color up!
  17. Gardener me pilfered supplies from fish keeping me... the siphon hose has just the right flow to slowly deep water/fertilize at the base off the plants without run-off. Bonus: I get to “multi-task” (aka wander off), and mix up 5G of fertilizer at once. Laziness is the mother off efficiency 😂 Anyone else have hobby mash-ups where another hobby informs the fish keeping, or the fish keeping informs another hobby? *disclaimer: the siphon has been permanently relegated to the garden shed, the bucket is out only for tank water.
  18. Hi! Recently my tank has had a pretty major ammonia spike. I’ve been doing everything I can. I’ve been doing 50% water changes every day, and doing everything I can, yet my ammonia levels aren’t going down.
  19. Now the weather has warmed up does anyone else find themselves doing multiple small water changes just so they can water the garden plants? I know it's not efficient as far as nitrate removal and effort but I think the positives out way the negatives
  20. So I have a heavily planted 75 gallon community tank. I haven’t done a water change in a month. I check the water parameters weekly with the Aquarium CoOp test strips ( which I love by the way) and am staying in the 10-20 ppm range for nitrates. I dose easy green weekly. My question is there a point I should do a water change even if the parameters are good? I used to have this tank stocked with bigger cichlids and had to do weekly water changes to keep the nitrates under control so this is new to me.
  21. Our tank is having a nitrite spike right now so we are treating with prime and doing water changes. What I am confused by is that after we do a 50% water change, they SAY it should lower your nitrite levels by 50% but we see no change at all. Is there something I am missing here? Levels look exactly the same before and after
  22. I rarely do water changes. My tanks are very heavily planted. I normally just add water. I never lose fish, and if I do test the water, the nitrates are almost never high and the ammonia is nonexistent. In my live bearer tank there’s 30 something fish depending on how many fry are there. It’s a 29 gallon. There are platties, guppies and swords. My 75 has over 50 barbs and peacocks. My question is why is am I a monster for not changing the water, just cleaning the filters?
  23. I've heard many water change disaster stories. I just had mine. My dirty water bucket handle decided it was time to retire just a foot away from the patio door. Snap. F-bomb. Hoping my 4 year old didn't hear me.... Towels later I'm glad I listened to advice and kept the tank in the basement. It was for the possibility of a broken/leaking tank. But I guess you can add this to the reasons why.
  24. I have an apisto that has turned really pale after a water change. This was months ago, and he’s still fine, but still pale. Typically I monitor for nitrates and only do changes when they exceed a certain point which is why it’s been a while Aside from a little bit of algae due to it being summer, my tank is doing fine. Why is my fish so pale? I should mention his tankmates are all doing just fine. It’s strictly a one fish problem. He’s also still eating.
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