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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. Mostly water parameters, but both matters. I tend to siphon one spot or two spots when I want to avoid fry. Those other spots, patches of plants or pile of rocks, I tend to avoid for a few weeks to give the fry time to develop. As soon as they get fins they are a lot more resilient to the siphon. Fry tend to avoid open spaces on the tank, and adults. Wherever the adults congregate you might see fry in rock crevice or elsewhere, try to get the spots where the adults are if that section of the substrate needs to be cleaned. If not, just don't siphon it. You don't want rotting food in the substrate but you do want food there, aufwuchs, and places for the fry to get floating debris to eat off. Once you get that siphoned, let the bucket sit and then you can use a flashlight through the side of the bucket. Sort of like how when you have glasses and they break, you lose a screw on the floor and can't see anything, having your eye close to the floor and seeing the shadow or odd shape helps. Use a turkey baster to move any fry back to the tank and then dispose of the water. If there is a lot of cover, yeah I would. The fry will be healthier and it's a lot less stress on you. If you're trying to maximize the hatch then go ahead and move eggs. If you are happy with some surviving and adding to the herd, then just let nature do it's thing. This is from my tank. The two fish are from the same hatch. The larger one survived in the tank while the smaller one was pulled into a breeder box, released into the tank at 6 weeks.
  2. To expand on the other comments above, maybe the upside of cycle issues is to test two different methods. Do it yourself, then do it with the class if you think it's an interesting experiment. Half the tanks cycle them with your current method, the others, cycle them by adding flake food every few days. I would be curious to see how the cycle results were depending on what rocks were or weren't in the tanks. In addition to the sponges, potentially require each tank to have a very small amount of bio rings or biomax (aquaclear) media or some lava rock as part of the scape.
  3. If you have 2-3 schools of barbs they will tend to focus on each other and focus on schooling as opposed to other things in the tank. Maybe adding some melon barbs fits the tank or a school of rasboras to keep them distracted. Lots of tall plants helps too, sight breaks, and things to swim through.
  4. Definitely don't move her right now. Let her finish spawning. It can last a few days. She is using leaves and other places to try to hide the eggs from predators. The main thing is to keep the eggs free from fungus, make sure flow isn't extremely strong, and that the water is clean. The tank sounds like it has heavy plant cover, so the setup you have is perfect for the fry to do well in that setting. I wouldn't move either the fry or the parents. Congratulations. Enjoy and best of luck with the fry and a successful hatch!
  5. I've seen people keep them at much higher GH without any issues at all. Amano and neos do like harder water. All neos are a color form of cherry shrimp and cherry shrimp (standard ones) are notorious for harder water. Most times this means high GH. Sometimes it means high GH and high KH. Depending on what your case is they have GH buffers or they have GH+KH buffers and you'd dose in the applicable one. This is similar to how reefers or EI dosing is done. You test what's in the water and have a very good idea, then you can dose in what you need to keep it for the species in question. The other method.... Struggle for a bit, get some fry, then after 2 generations they are used to your methods and your water and can basically do their own thing with a lot less stress. I've had corydoras lost well after normal acclimation would be considered over with. I am confident that death (in my case) was because of long term acclimation issues because I really didn't know where to keep them. I started at one end and shifted things to the other until I saw the behavior I wanted. As long as your water is in the range you think is acceptable, you aren't seeing and irregular behavior, and you aren't seeing any diseases, then I would lean towards that type of a death. Especially if it's just one in a blue moon type of thing. Everything you've said, behavior seems very normal and the shrimp are happy and doing shrimpy things. Could've just been the runt of the group or one of the ones that didn't quite get feisty enough in the food department, might've been older, who knows. It's got to be something small causing the stress and just that little bit of stress is causing some of those deaths. Could be a few things, but ultimately time and shrimplettes is the end goal. Then everything you're doing is fine. Honestly. You could have had just a weak shrimp and it was a long term issue that eventually led to that death after travel and other things. It could be as little as shifting things to offer more omnivore nutrition, slightly more protein, or even feeding less if that's a concern. (Mostly due to limitations on water changes, KH ions building up, and that side of the equation) Are you testing TDS at all?
  6. Very weird. Try to make sure the Amano are getting enough food. Try to drop some pellets or repashy every other night.
  7. Last update for the day. I appreciate this S. Repens for being very fun to stare at. Growing wide and tall it's a unique perspective to see the plant and the different leaf sizes at each tier. Curse that algae though. 😩
  8. Why am I just now seeing this! How do I get the robots to send me a tag every time someone posts a picture with Anubias? Well done @tolstoy21
  9. One of the big things your tanks are missing..... Stone. And just hard scape in general. Adding more opens up rhizome plants, epiphytes, and just a lot of amazing little plants that can be at different levels if you can attach them vertically.
  10. They do sell extra brine shrimp when available. @brandonnaturallyccan you help answer the other questions please and clarify everything for us! Thank you, we appreciate your time!
  11. Congratulations. That's awesome. Tomorrow night first feeding.
  12. The fry that grew up in the tank next to one that didn't. Same age. Tried to get another shot but only got the larger one in the light. Some of the females and males it's already apparent which is which just based on size. Males are about an inch, females are slightly over almost 1.25" The bigger one is probably pushing 1.75" right now.
  13. Not the reveal, but this is Luigi. I believe it's a she, but Luigi has been with me for gosh probably 5+ years? It's been a while. I've always felt bad because it's the one pleco that is almost always lowest on the totem pole but she would be the one that Grace would allow in her cave. Meet Luigi 🙂 I added moss to the tank today in hopes to help out with more plant mass in this tank and just help to give some cover for fry. Checking on the fish tonight I did see what looked like a panda fry. It would be the first I've seen visually in the tank, but by the time I got the flashlight and the phone it darted and hasn't moved out of it's hide. The group of parents is protecting that section of the tank, Grace is doing her nightly laps and just being her goofy self. She's definitely wanting an Olympic size swimming pool if I let her have it. 😂 This is one of the pandas that is a lot smaller than the rest, there's a few, but as I mentioned I've never seen fry personally. Eggs a few times but never fry. Today the tank is active, seems happy, and hopefully that's a good omen for everything going forward.
  14. Good I'm not the only one! Check this out..... Doing some research for another thread and LOOK AT ALL OF THEM..... Video a page or two back of some random tank and it had 50-80 black corydoras schooling. Talk about a fun time. I am loving whatever this moss is. Taiwan moss I think. Just a really unique pattern and giant tendrils when it gets going. I started with one portion. Even throwing heaps away I think I'm up to about.... 10x that amount. I believe this is what it is:
  15. I wish y'all could sit and watch this tank with me. I'm on fry watch. Saw one. Trying to see it again or if I am just imagining it. Looks like a panda fry. And then I see one panda (I've noticed it before) is clearly a juvenile and is probably 3 months old. I can't not sit here and wait for the fry.... Time for some repashy.
  16. I definitely pull it off. If I go back in there in a week and I still see it, then I'll pull off anything I can see. Once it cures you can just chip it off. As mentioned too, slimy rotten soggy wood, it barely sticks. Camera makes it look bad, but you really, really don't see it until you put the wood into the tank and it's like a neon sign turning on. I used 5-6 tubes just on the rock, I used ~3 on the wood. We'll see how it holds up. It's a very, very high flow tank and I have issues when it gets longer. I will plan on getting some moss thread and using that for future projects. Right now, this is probably going to grow out and not be touched for nearly a year. I need to get it secure enough so I can actually just trim it! It's been getting so bushy that whenever I think about touching it I pull off a big chunk. 😞 Yep! Hopefully it's all gone by morning 😂
  17. All the parameters look good. Keep the water clean, salt, and eventually meds (if need be).
  18. I tend to feed it 2x a week when I am really, really trying to do well. I make a batch and toss it in the freezer. Currently I have 12-15 tabs open about shrimp water changes. Let's go down the rabbit hole.... The way to get around that is to basically "age" or condition the water. Add the buffers and give it X amount of time. For some it's an hour, for others it's a day or several days. I also have heard of breeders of fish / shrimp who only use old tank water for water changes and that's their version of "aged" water. My intuition is very similar to this video and this breeder's views.
  19. I would opt for feeding them at night to see if they go after food a little easier. Hopefully you're able to feed them what they need. You could also powderize something you want them to eat and then just drizzle that on the water sprite. This was what I did with my fry and the moss. I'm sure that would do well with the shrimp as well. The spirulina based foods is what does the best for me, specifically those algae tabs (actual spirulina ones that I can't even find anymore, old sera ones) and soilent green repashy. I hope, am hoping that things improve for you. It's never easy to lose one and I know it's been a back and forth struggle with these ones for you. All I can really is say that I'm left with a lot of questions myself based on my own experiences with my shrimp. Different animal, but yeah.... I find myself with more questions as this thing progresses for you. I'll check it out, try to send you some information if I find anything worth a read for you. Maybe Chris Lukhaup has a video I can find on the topic. If distilled is a known useful thing, then I would say opt for that and get some new water in there. It'll help with oxygenation, tds, and KH. Even if you're eventually able to go from 10 up to 20% WCs that's a huge improvement in my view.
  20. For what you're dealing with you're going to want a bit more. I should've mentioned it earlier, but also add an airstone if you can. Level 2 Treatment 1 Tbsp Salt per 2 Gallons of Water https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/aquarium-salt-for-sick-fish Temp?
  21. I'll catch up! 😞 Yeah, all of this is accurate. Some don't need RO or to mix their water with RO for Neos because their tap is adequate. Your water may vary. Caridina are more sensitive / demanding than Neos. It's a slight thing, but they basically don't tolerate any hardness. As for "you'll lose a lot of your first group" I've had this mentioned to me for fish as well as others. I've heard it from Eric (corydoras breeder in washington) as well as from dean where they mention that you want to get to your second generation in your water and then you'll have fully adapted fish (or shrimp). That is usually the rule of thumb / tribal knowledge breeders use for their projects.
  22. GH I literally ignore 99% of the time. Hard water is usually "fine" but the issue is often PH/KH. Temp is fine. KH is right on the line, but perfectly fine. PH is fine. Again, take it with a grain of salt, but my water is normally 300+ in terms of GH. I only had losses and issues when my KH swung. I'm talking years and years of these shrimp in the tank at two different sources. Most often no swings in parameters, but this past year after the move I did have some trouble for a few months. I think a lot of people use RO with shrimp for the sake of trying to make the water "perfect" which tends to cause more stress in the eyes of some and that's something I do hear from Cory time to time. I do dose in a lot of stuff, but don't have fancy shrimp to give you tested experience and a full grasp on my method and if it's reliable at all. Amanos are their own separate type of puzzle, but.... IDK. My gut tells me that your water from the tap has slightly lower KH and it's just a matter of water changes or food. I see so many stories of people with Neos that don't change water. That has it's own effects when you do start to change water. I've also heard people who just change water as the shrimp are in their community tanks and they don't really modify technique for them. Needless to say, I am working on solving this or... trying to understand this as well. I feel your struggle. I would opt towards tap and getting shrimp that do well in your water. It could take months and few batches of fry, but eventually they will adapt and you will have more shrimp than you know what to do with.
  23. Track down or order some kanaplex. Start there. You added salt.... what dose did you use? I understand its stressful, but you're doing the correct things. Test your water and report back. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, PH, KH, temp, etc.
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