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tolstoy21

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  1. My favorite food? Thanks for asking. It's Pepperoni Pizza! If you're asking about what the shrimp like, not sure I (or they) have a favorite. But I do feed the following -- Repashy Soilent Green, snow flake food, Mineral Junkie, Bacter AE and Indian almond leaves. I just sort of rotate through that mix, feeding maybe every other day or so. The Indian almond leaves and some other botanicals are always present in the tank for shrimp to munch on. My shrimp go berserk when I drop food in the dish. But I think they must smell it because otherwise the dish is just something else to randomly crawl on.
  2. Sumps just use gravity to get the water from the main display tank to the sump. The water in the tank basically “overflows” via an aptly named overflow. This drains down into the sump, then a return pump pumps the water back up into the display tanks. Typically you’d want to be able to adjust the flow rate both out of the tank and back into the tank. For water draining out of an aquarium, flow rate is adjusted with the use of either a ball valve or gate valve. For the water going back in, flow rate is adjusted at the pump itself. if I were you, I’d watch a lot of YouTube videos about saltwater sump setups. There are a jillion out there. Saltwater folks are sump masters. And a sump is a sump. The basic design/concepts will mostly be the same for freshwater, minus all the fancy saltwater equipment.
  3. Oh, some other notes: A product called "No-Planaria" works well but will also wipe out snails. The feeding dish is your friend! Any food that can disintegrate and make it down into the substrate where shrimp can't reach it is then food for detritus worms and other things. I use a standard fine sponge filter in my tank for mechanical filtration. The shrimp love to graze on everything stuck on its surface and babies won't get into it like they could with coarser sponge material. However, fine sponge does clog quickly, so I wring mine out every water change or so.
  4. Knowing how much to feed is a little trial and error at first. I think most people leave food in the dish for a few hours and then remove whatever is uneaten. Just be careful because sometimes when you go to remove the dish from the tank, the left over stuff can scatter everywhere on the water current! After a while, you'll get good at knowing how much to feed so you won't really need to remove any food at all. Just one of those 'experience' things. But that doesn't take too long to figure out. When you first start out, 12 juvenile shrimp or so don't eat much at all, and it is very easy to overfeed. But once the population explodes, you don't have to worry as much about planaria and detritus worms, because unless you're grossly overfeeding, everything gets gobbled up by the ravenous horde of crustaceans. Here's my little guys eating snowflake right now.
  5. Yeah, I get that especially with spiderwood. The 'white fuzz'! I get it even if the wood has been in a tank for years, gets removed and dried out, then put in another tank . . . the white fuzz comes back! I used to get in there and scrapes the wood in an attempt to remove it all. But now I just let it go away on its own. It's ugly as heck for a couple weeks, then clears on its own (and cause critters nibble at it).
  6. I would wonder how much actual salt has migrated into the wood that has also not been removed from years of rain and weather. I'd also wonder that -- if there is residual salt inside the wood itself that can't be removed by a surface wash with a garden hose -- how long would that actually take to migrate of the wood, and in what actual quantity, so as to be harmful to freshwater fish? I doubt that would be as much salt as one would use when trying to cure fish illness with aquarium salt. Water takes a long time to penetrate wood to an appreciable depth. I'd imagine any bleach soak you did years back would not have penetrated enough to not be easily washed away by a full year of rain. Obviously, better always to take some precautions, rather than throwing precaution to the wind. But it were me, I would not go too far in terms of treating the wood. I would just give it a reasonable rinse/soak with fresh water, scrub it down a little, and then let it dry in the sun.
  7. Fish currently breeding/ have fry growing out: Odessa Barbs, Apisto Cacs, Multis, Crystal Red Shrimp Fish I have and either waiting until larger or trying to spawn: Super Blue Emperor Tetras
  8. I’m over run with crystal reds now. I typically sell them on Craigslist locally and when someone pays for like 10 shrimp, I’ll show up with 20 and they are happy as can be! But its boom of bust with CL I find. Some months I suddenly have a flurry of sales, others nothing.
  9. I don’t think you can feed it too often, but you can definitely feed too much at a time. I feed it almost exclusively to small fry that will take it, until they are large enough and willing to eat crushed flake and nano pellets. Then I feed it along with that food. If I don’t have a ton of fry, I’ll hatch 1/4 to 1/2 tsp a day. Anything left over I’ll feed to adults in other tanks.
  10. Check out the bulk reef supply you tube channel. More good information than you could ever possibly consume.
  11. I also have a hard time with the brown and orange range colors on the high Ph test chart. 7.4 through 8.0 certainly look different on the chart, but then I put the vial up to the chart and the liquid looks like it could be any of the colors in that range.
  12. Alligator snapping turtles! I don’t remember the tank size. Maybe 10 gallons. This was back in the late 70s. I used to catch the babies from a freshwater lagoon near my house that fed into a brackish wetland. Tons of snapping turtles! I’d get a few quarter-sized ones and feed them dried tubifex cubes and live killifish or frogs I’d also catch near the wetlands. When they got about silver-dollar-sized, I’d let them go and catch more!
  13. In my short experience -- this being the third spawn I've had of these fish -- about 50% of the males come out with the nice orange coloration in the ventral fins. The rest are true 'triple reds' with uncolored ventral fins, but the rest of their fins being richly colored. I'd like to see if I can get that percentage higher in successive generations. To be honest, they color up magnificently against dark substrate, but appear more pale over all (but still nice) against lighter substrates.
  14. Yeah, to be honest, not sure what to do with this number of fry. I haven't been selling or trading fish long enough to know how long it takes to offload this number of apistos. I guess I'm about to find out. Everything in life is an experiment/experience!
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