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Patrick_G

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Patrick_G last won the day on October 18

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  1. I agree with the advice about the light. You’ll also want to remove the damaged leaves, that way the plant can put more energy into new growth. That type of algae can be stubborn but I’ve had luck removing the plants and scrubbing the leaves with a toothbrush.
  2. I agree with @Colu, cut back the light to 8 hrs and spot treat with Excel. If it’s still persists after three weeks cut another 1/2-1 hour of light. You can also get some more fast growing plants to help outcompete the algae.
  3. 😆 I’ve been down this very same path! It’s hard to decide and it’s hard to not over analyze the purchase because it’s not cheap and you want the right one! I finally accepted that just about any light will grow the main plants in the hobby, but with a fully adjustable light like Fluval, ONF or Chihiros you can use it on low power or crank it up for those more difficult to grow plants. (and algae unfortunately)
  4. Yup, aquatic gardening is all about experimenting. Give it a try and let’s see a pic!
  5. If you like the way they look as a bunch I’d untie them and glue them to your hard scape so that each rhizome has some space around it.
  6. It should work fine either way. I’ve bought a few pots of Anubias from Aquarium Coop that were two smaller plants instead of one big one. I just consider it a bonus. 😀
  7. Welcome! Very nice looking tank! I love the meadow effect from the hairgrass and small stones in the foreground.
  8. Yeah, good point. The have a quarantine room in the retail area and in the space next door. This should be the standard for all new LFS, but I understand why it’s not possible. Not every LFS has a larger online business backing it up.
  9. I haven’t used the Stingray, but I’m 100% it will be fine for a 29 unless you’re trying to do high tech carpeting plants. Check out @Irene’s YouTube, Girl Talks Fish, she uses the Stingray. The Fluval app is so functional and easy to use. The light is great unless you want a strong red spectrum. I really like mine. Check out @Bentley Pascoe’s channel for info on the various models and programming. If you want something less expensive I use two Nicrew RGBs on my 75. They don’t have the par levels of a higher end light but they grow plants well and don’t cost much and have a rudimentary timer on the switch. I bypass that and use a WiFi timer.
  10. They may actually have helped you a bit by giving you a plant that’s further along in the conversion process. The air grown leaves were going to die off anyway. Having said that I actually only have one Crypt wendtii (pink flamingo) because I don’t like that stage of growth! The other four varieties of Crypt I own are less prone to melt.
  11. That’s a bummer but I wouldn’t give up on them. During the online club meeting Cory talked about the med trio and how he developed the process. Part of the reasoning behind it was the high death rate among incoming fish in the days after they arrived from the wholesaler. If you decide against shopping there again I bet there’s some other good LFS in the Triangle area.
  12. The fish head is hilarious! Thanks for the laugh @Irene!
  13. If you’re planning on a completely new substrate system, I like aquasoil capped with sand. The aquasoil is nutrient rich and also has a high capacity to hold nutrients from the water column. I’ll also add that I have a one year old tank with Corydoras on Ecocomplete with no damage to their barbels.
  14. I settled on two Nicrew RGBs. They work but have trouble projecting enough light to the bases of tall stem plants. I think you’ve gone a long way towards solving the problem by raising the back. I’m considering reconfiguring my 75 to a similar layout. I’d probably remove the 3’ long driftwood and make a terrace in the back.
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