JJenna

Psssst...Amazon Fresh has 1 liter bottles for .89. I haven't placed a fresh order since they put in new fees for delivery, but it was pretty nice to have 10 liters delivered for free (if you have Prime that is).

It is interesting and I would also like to do it, but space does not allow it, not to mention what to do with all the grown snabies!

It's been so fun watching the snails grow. All but 5 have been rehomed and I'm beginning to regret it because the shell color has changed again. Initially they were a peachy/gold color which morphed into a darker color and I thought they would all be chestnut. Given that 5/6 Mystery snails I had in the tank were chestnut, this was no surprise. In the past week I've seen another change in color. The spires were remaining brown but the main shell has changed to magenta, which is a total surprise to me! Looking at the the MSCG Project, Magenta's colors loci is aayyS_ This is where it starts to get murky for me so I'm writing it out to see if makes more sense for me (I've always learned best from reading). The locus for body color is (A) and Gold MS have 2 recessive loci for color. I take this to mean that Tenzig (Gold MS) was one of the mating pair. The locus for shell background color is (Y) and Ivory, Blue, and Magenta have 2 recessive loci (yy) for background color. This is where I get lost, The other snails in the tank are all Chestnut and their background color locus is Y_. I take this to mean that these recessive loci have come from further back (much like red hair color popping up in a family of all brown hair color). The locus for shell striping is (S) and Chestnut, Brown/Black, Purple and Magenta all have a dominant and recessive loci for striping. At this point my brain is telling me, "if it looks like a duck...." then it means that the shell background color is from 2 recessive loci from a prior generation's snail color, either Ivory, Blue, or Magenta. Appreciate any feedback on this.

What a beautiful tribute you made for Yellowstone!

I live in Indianapolis and recently went to Uncle Bill's Greenwood location which is on the south side of Indy. I was really impressed by the cleanliness of their fish tanks. The inhabitants looked healthy and weren't overstocked. The service area was super clean. I have been to several of the Uncle Bill's stores over the years and would have never bought fish from them but this was my first time at the Greenwood store. The Reef has done some major remodeling in the past couple of years and they have a great selection. While it's not a lfs, Aquatic Arts has a local pickup option so you can save on shipping. The only downside to local pickup is it is only available weekdays. Because it doesn't have a storefront the price of stock is lower as well. I've purchased multiple items from them and have never been disappointed. May be worth it to see if a road trip is worth it.

I don't use it, but you could make Korean Pesto with it! Just use same recipe but substitute the Perilla.

I never thought of putting them in divided containers like you did, thanks for the tip.

The snabies are almost a month old now and are developing their final coloration, chestnut. A couple of them are chick-pea size but I'm going to hold off for a little more before transferring some to the 40 gal and offering up to local club or surrendering to LFS. There are at least 20 in the tank and there are more hanging out in the Suswassertang. It's been an experience, but I won't be going into breeding Mysteries full time. Thanks to everyone who helped along the way!

The downside of this DIY is it can't be controlled. I know it's imperfect when compared to a normal setup, but it will give me info on whether I want to continue to use CO2 or just when giving new plants a boost.

I agree! Dithered about posting the little I did.

I had a credit from Buce Plant for plants damaged during shipping. Of course, that credit was burning a hole in my pocket. What did I spend it on? The Neo CO2 diy kit. I want to see the differences the CO2 has on plant development and how they change. It was a fast setup and I was worried that a kink in the tubing might have split the tubing but it didn't. The time for the CO2 to generate took longer than stated, 2 hours vs 1 hour stated. This was likely due to the water I added to the yeast might have been a bit chilly and it took time for the yeast to bloom. I used two packets of yeast as Aquario site stated that this kit is for up to 30 gallon tanks and I have a 40. When it's time to recharge, I'm going to weigh the yeast and only use 1.5 of the packets vs 2. I have a lot of slow-growing plants in the tank. You can't see them in the picture but there's also spiral val that has pretty much stopped at 3 inches high (after the 14" height that melted away after planting). They have been in the tank for about a month. I've read that they are fairly fast growers but that hasn't been the case with me. The two new plants are Ludwigia Arcuata and Hydrocotyle Sibthorpiodes which I planted at the back and more under the light. Right now I am pleased with the lighting level, 2-4 hour periods of high-intensity light with 4-hour siesta between. Algae on the plants are pretty minimal and the shrimp keep it in check. I'm not looking to see what effect CO2 has on algae. I use EG, Seachem Trace, Seachem Iron, and root tabs at the recommended dosing.

I just finished "The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy" for the I don't know how many times I've read it. Why? To keep up with the evolution of why books are banned over time. It was banned because of inappropriate words and its questioning of religion. Words like, "hell" "damn" "bloody" and "idiot" and phrases like, "for God's sake"

I haven't studied it thoroughly, but the fry needs brackish water to survive. When Mom is put into another tank the salinity should be 17-35 ppt. After the larvae have hatched, move Mom out of tank to prevent her from eating the larvae. After a month you drop the salinity down to 15 ppt. Feed them brewers yeast 4-8x/day which is 30-120 microns as they are so tiny. Size and amount depends on size. Avoid fouling the water column with too much yeast. When they are no longer larval stage you can feed them small pieces of algae wafers and other foods you would normally give to shrimp. They take 3-5 months to reach maturity

Amano shrimp...they have particular breeding needs so you won't have to worry about their population exploding, Otocinclus...they are all over the glass and plants in my tank, Hillstream Loaches.

Yikes! duly noted I just bought some assassin snails because the pest snails find my buce delectable.