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Showing results for tags 'algae'.
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Hello sweet people of the Aquarium Co-op community, My tap water has a high level of Silicon Dioxide (SIO2) and because of this i always had to fight Brown Diatom Algae. I did test this by doing less and less routine water changes. The Brown Diatom Algae would then dissapear (Yay! :]) but as the Brown Diatom Algae dissapeared i then faced Green Water Algae or phytoplankton. (Nay! :[ ) So i recently bought Silicate absorbing resin for in my HoB filter to remove the Silicon Dioxide from the water but apparently it will also remove Phosphate. Now i am wondering if this will lead to Phosphate deficiencies for my plants. (AAAAAAAAAH) Should i get an RODI machine instead, those seem expensive though. Help is very much appreciated. -
I really want to get a great planted tank but I can't seem to be able to feed my plans without feeding algae. I wouldn't mind the algae but it grows on the plans and suffocates them. My lights are on timers and I'm adding flourish liquid fertilizer and root tabs. I've been trying to keep NO3 around 20 to 30 ppm and I've been pretty successful. My lights are on a timer and go on and off so they're on 8 of 12 hours (two separate two hour breaks in the day) I started using some gluteraldrahyde (the ingredient in easy carbon) to stop the algae and it's slowly killing it back but I'm afraid 1) it's harming the thin leaf plants 2) as soon as I reduce the dose I'm going right back to growing more algae. What should my next steps be? -
First off, just need confirmation this is black beard algae. Secondly, how to treat. Was hoping to get a fish to control various algae on plants. Had ottos, but they all died except one and I never see evidence of him eating anything other than his belly is still plump when I do see him. I have 10 harlequin rasboras, 50+ cherry shrimp, 6 panda coryadoras, and various snails.- 15 replies
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Is hydrogen peroxide effective at killing staghorn if i pull out my anubias and spray it on and let it soak? -
I set up my first aquarium 5 days ago and now I notice some algae starting to grow. ATM I'm cicling my planted tank (no fish or Shrimp so far) with the addition of liquid starter bacteria and co2. I seem to recall it to be normal for algae to grow during the time a tank is established and that the algae will "stop" growing once the cicling is done. Is that more or less correct or should I start to clean up the algae in addition to the water changes? Sorry if my englisch is wierd it's not my first language... -
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I have a racer nerite snail in my goldfish tank; its name is Snowpatch. It was named for the white patch on the shell. No one wanted it because its shell wasn't perfect, so I brought the snail home to help with the algae in the aquarium and for the kiddo to enjoy. I noticed Snowpatch's handiwork on a pot in the tank. You can see exactly where the radula scraped off the algae. I rather like it; it has kind of a tribal art pattern to it. The beauty of nature in my living room! What "natural art" have you seen in your aquariums?- 2 replies
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Just would like some help identifying what this stuff growing on my plants might be. -
My tabk has had an off and on battle with staghorn algae for a while now. Im almost ready to give up. I trimmed off almost everything in the tank that has stag on it. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. -
**** LONG POST ALERT **** Hey everyone! I hope someone can give me some insight into what I am doing wrong in my tank (first aquarium newb). I currently have an algae issue and real weak plant growth/plant health right now. I had blue green algae and treated it with Chemiclean successfully so far. Some is still hanging around in the first picture below. Here are some pictures of what I have going on right now: Stocking: 12 Neon tetras 6 Black Phantom Tetras 6 Dwarf Praecox Rainbows 4 Panda Corys 2 Plecos 2 Oto's 6 Amano Shrimp 3 Cherry Shrimp 2 Unknown Shrimp (Ghost?) 1 Yellow Neo Shrimp 2 Mystery Snails Water Parameters: Frequent 20%- 30% water changes. Weekly or bi-weekly. Conditioned city tap water with Tetra water conditioner when doing a water change. Values shown in picture with test strip. They seem ok to me. Equipment: 55 gallon tank (used, unknown age and brand) Marineland Magniflow 220 canister filter w/ a Co-op pre filter sponge on the intake. Finnex HC-810M Digital temp controller with Finnex TH-0300S 300w heater. Wisper AP150 air pump with generic airstone Fluval Planted 3.0. (It is the 36" version. I believe it is too small for the length of a 55g and I should have bought the 48".) NICREW ClassicLED Plus Planted Aquarium Light- 48". (Was told I didn't have enough light at LFS. Added this after going by their recommendation of more light. Pretty sure this part of the issue.) Glass covers for top. Substrate: CaribSea Eco-Complete x6 bags. Gravel from friends established tank in mesh bags under the substrate for height in areas. One package of 10 Flourish Root tabs put in a few weeks ago. Fertilizers: Flourish, Flourish Excel, Flourish Advanced, Flourish Iron, and Flourish Root Tabs (not shown). I do not use the API CO2 Booster in the picture. Have tried cleaning up some of the sludge with the Fritz Monster 360 shown and did one round of Chemiclean to attack a much worse blue green algae that was caked into the java moss. The chemiclean did a good job and I physically removed the worst bits. It does appear that the algae is still lingering on the Mayaca Vandelli seen in above picture. Feeding: I feed a combo of frozen Hikari Daphnia, frozen Hikari Brine Shrimp, and the below dry foods. I don't really use the dry blood worms or the bug bites much at all. How I have been doing everything: Morning: Fluval Light comes on at 7:45am (Pictures of settings provided). NiCrew was coming on at the same time but i have since cut the NiCrew out of the morning period. I feed before leaving for work. Typically only one of the mentioned foods. I don't know why but I somehow convinced myself that the fish need variety and to switch up what food they get randomly. I was 100% over feeding when I first got this tank up and running. now they only eat once a day. I dose 10ml of Flourish Advanced and 5ml of Flourish Excel daily. Flourish Iron and regular Flourish are every other day or every few days (Terrible at keeping track. Really need to simplify the ferts somehow). Midday: Siesta on the Fluval light from 12:30pm to 1:30pm. Both the Fluval and NiCrew come on at 1:45pm and they stay on till 9:30pm. Evening/Night: NiCrew shuts off at 9:30 and fluval starts ramp down till 11:15pm. The tank is in my living room and I really like being able to enjoy the tank when I am home from work in the evenings. All lights off at 11:20pm till morning. I have the heater set to 78°F. I figured it was the most neutral temp for everything in the tank. As I said, this tank is in my living room and unfortunately next to the bay window. I know that this is also having an affect on the algae from the sunlight. Summery: First, sorry for the ridiculously LONG post. I really just want to understand how to make the plants and fish healthier while keeping the algae to a minimum. I know that I could really use a CO2 system. I have a strong feeling that I am providing way to much light to the tank. Should I discontinue use of the NiCrew and replace the Fluval for the longer length version? I really don't like the fertilization that I am using. Easy Green instead??? As always, thank you to anyone who has some tips/tricks/pointers for this post!!! - Joe -
Any thoughts on what this algae is and what I should get to eat it? I have 3 amano, and 16 small neos but they don’t seem to be making a dent. 55g full of guppies. thanks Z -
Can anyone identity if this is either green mold or algae growing on the driftwoood? -
My tank has been overcome by this purple/redish algae. I have tried liquid algae removers and it doesn't help. What exactly is it and how do I get rid of it? -
I am having some algae or possible Cyanobacteria issues in my 40 Gallon breeder I am hoping some of you are able to give me some advice on. For the full story on the tank. It has been running for about 2 years now with an almost complete tear down to move it about 6 months ago. Before I moved the tank it was looking almost perfect for what I was trying to achieve. On the left had side are all crypts and on the right is a sword plant. Before moving the tank the plants were almost reaching the surface. When resetting up the tank I thinned the plants out and they have not come back fully where I want them yet. Two weeks ago the algae was looking pretty good. There was a decent amount on the rocks in the centre and on the back wall but the sand and plants were completely clear. By last weekend the Algae or Cyanobacteria all the sudden got dramatically worse the rocks are now an unpleasant brown colour and the sand has a thick layer of the stuff anywhere the light hits. So last weekend I cleaned as much of the algae off of the rocks and sifted the clumps off of the bottom as much as I could and now over 1 week it came back extra thick. For the tanks specs it is a 40 Breeder with a 36" Fluval plant 3.0 on it turned down to 55% and only on for 8 hours. It gets 4 pumps of easy green a week and before this algae a 25% water change ever 3 weeks. The Ammonia tests at 0, Nitrite at 0 and Nitrate between 20-40. The stocking is 2 Bolivian Rams, 2 Red Lizard catfish, 6 Otocinclus, 11 green kubotai rasboras, 1 Guppy and 1 Ember Tetra. I would love any advice you can give me on how to clean this up and get it back to stable. The next step I know of would be a complete tear down and cleaning to start from scratch but I would really like to avoid that if I can since I have seen how much uprooting the plants set them back last time. As an extra note if it is cyanobacteria I know I have read that people use Erythromycin to treat it but I live in Canada and Erythromycin is not available here. Thank you Kent -
My staghorn algae problem has returned with a vengeance. My wholle tank has it on 40% on my decor. Is it safe to double dose easy carbon to eradicate this problem. I also have five amano shrimp and it doesnt seem to help. Please help! -
Hi, I bought some plants the other week along with some new fish because I decided to dive into the world of live plants rather then fake. I had a list of easy plants I wanted, but thanks to the pandemic deliveries to my local pet shop have been a bit all over the place, so I asked out of the plants he had which would be easiest to care for. And I left with Java moss, and 2 other species I’ve forgotten the names of. But I’ll post photos to help try and identify them. My issue is that one of the plants is turning brown, then kinda see through, and then the leaf falls off, but a new leaf then regrows in its place. Whilst the other planes are growing just fine, but have this brown algae growing on some of their leaves. I also have a problem with algae growing quite quickly on the glass. But the algae on the glass isn’t brown. I use a liquid fertiliser as last time I tried live plants my issue was they wouldn’t grow, and other then that i don’t really use anything else, and my lights are on roughly 7-9 hours a day. From around midday to late evening. Thanks in advance for your advice x -
I'm not sure what type of algae this is, but it has engulfed the roots of a baby java fern. The roots of the motherplant 6 inches below are untouched by the algae. The otos, shrimp and snails have not have not touched it as far as I can tell. Should I throw this out or is it salvageable. I might throw it in a tank with a couple of clown plecos but I don't want to spread bad algae if this is going to multiply. Any idea what this is and how concerned I should be? -
I have a reoccurring issue with a black moldy looking crud that continues to show up on my white sand. At first, back in April, I blamed it on some API root tabs that I used on some Vallisneria that I had just planted. Now, I’m not sure if it was the cause or not. The picture doesn’t really show it as vividly as live. I starts out looking like maybe some charcoal dust got sprinkled around. After a week or so, it will form patches that when vacuumed up look like a loose film that only breaks apart in pieces. I started this tank back in March and because of COVID didn’t get fish until August. Before adding the fish I did treat the tank with Chemiclean with no positive results. Vacuuming it seems to be the only cure (haven’t tried anything else). It always comes back after a few weeks. This is a fully cycled 60 Gal tank with more than enough filter for the 7 small Brichardi and 6 mystery snails that inhabit it. All perimeters are 0 except Nitrates which stay around 20ppm. -
I am having troubles with my green terror 45g tank. He's the sole inhabitant here, and I do about 40% water change every week, when nitrates reach about 30-40ppm. I can't get rid of this algae! For some reason this tank is giving me way mopre problems than the others, even my oscar tank with a vieja and 2 severums doesn't have this much algae. I am dosing Easy Carbon (5 Pumps a day), and also added an ambulia wall so they can soak up any excess nutrients since they grow damn fast, but I cannot seem to erradicate this algae. I have a photoperiod of 10 hours in full strength, do you think that's too much? I also ad easy green every other day. Any suggestions on how to find a balance? What would you do? Decrease light time, increase ferts, increase water changes, increase easy carbon? Perhaps feed my green terror less? I feed him heavily 3 times a day cause that's what I was suggested because he's growing up. I also tried adding a TON of Ramshorn and pond snails, and this bully ate them all lol, I watched helplessly as she crunched every single one U___U. Any algae eaters compatible with this bully lol? I had to buy this tank for him cause he was beating my peaceful oscar and severums lol. Maybe a pleco? I got a few amanos and ottos, but I know they'll be a snack the moment they enter the tank lol. Thanks! -
TLDR: What do you think of burying algae as a way to "get rid of it"? First I had a ton of black beard algae and staghorn algae, but flourish got rid of it. It's still there, but more or less under control. My problem now is green hair algae all over the substrate. The Monte Caro isn't grown in, so there's lots of exposed substrate still. I'm doing water changes weekly, and manually pulling out green hair algae... I'm tired of it. What do you think of simply pushing the algae into the substrate where it will hopefully be out of the light, die off, and eventually become sort of a fertilizer for my plants? The tank is a 40 gallon freshwater tank with a NICREW SkyLED Plus & hob filter and a sponge filter. It's about 5 months old, with Java moss, crypts, s. repens, Monte Carlo, and bacopa monnieri, about 20 phoenix rasboras 20 blue dream shrimp, and a few nerites. Thanks! -
My 125 gallon tank is full of it all over the plants looks like a graveyard I know about Siamese algae eaters is there another way to get rid of this Stuff. thank you -
Hi i have attaches two pictures from my new tank. my doubt is it some kind of algae growing on plant or is it fine? if its an algae how to get rid of it -
Setting up a new tank after 15 years 🙂 Bought 3 plants from the local fish store and there's brown (algae?) stuff on them. Any thoughts on what this is and if I need to worry about it? Thanks -
Does anyone know what this is? it’s like a light brown and is almost dust like. it’s all in my filters and just keeps coming back. It’s always clearer to see it on my jar and this isn’t the best picture of it but i don’t have another one yet. I also want to make sure it’s safe for my betta fish to be in there with it. Thank you -
i noticed the following while layer on my aquarium substrate. its a new aquarium. is it an algae? any recommendations to get rid of them -
Can anyone identify what this is growing in my tank's back wall? It looks like algae but may also be worms? My tank's water parameters are normal and it is not overstocked with fish.
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