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Mmiller2001

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Everything posted by Mmiller2001

  1. Mmiller2001
    This is unlikely iridovirus, as it mostly only affects dwarf gourami. This looks like hemorrhagic septicemia. Most likely the bacterial variant. I would dose with Kanaplex or Maracyn 2. It needs to be oral dosing. Have you ruled out ammonia burns? I'd also raise the temperature, 73 is iffy. I'd go 76 to 78.
  2. Mmiller2001
    Does the pond have fish in it?
  3. Mmiller2001
    Excel can be dosed daily and in conjunction to fertilizer. But adding another product is not the answer. The above questions should be answered.
  4. Mmiller2001
    It's your gravel, large gravel like that is a nitrate factory. Also, root tabs just leach right out of the substrate.
  5. Mmiller2001
    65 gallon dose.
  6. Mmiller2001
    It will eventually. It's fine.
  7. Mmiller2001

    H1

    Mmiller2001 replied to H18's topic in Diseases

    There's no way to know without actually taking the fish to vet or biologist to run tests. However, we make guesses based on observable symptoms and for our purposes, we are pretty successful. Post a picture here or describe what's going. Someone will make the right guess for you!
  8. Mmiller2001
    I second this.
  9. Mmiller2001
    You could dose meds via food. This targets fish directly. Could easily kill off most parasites this way at a very low cost. Seachem Focus will bind meds to food.
  10. Mmiller2001
    Parasites most likely. Dose all of them.
  11. Mmiller2001
    Flukes can be very resistant to meds these days. Hit them with PraziPro, and you absolutely have to follow up 2 or 3 weeks later with a second round of full treatment.
  12. Mmiller2001
    Look at the table by the directions. Determine what pH you want to set. That's the ratio you will use. If I remember correctly, Acid Buffer dose is 2grams per 20 gallons. So if I have 30 gallons, I'll need to add 1 gram. So make the adjustment for your gallons then multiply by the ratio. Acid Buffer is always 1. So in my example, 30 gallons I need to use 3g Acid Buffer x 1=3g for 30 gallons. If I choose a 6.5 pH and I want to use Alkaline Buffer to target that number in my 30 gallons, I do the same thing. Alkaline Buffer is 6grams per 20 gallons. So I will need to add 3g for 30 gallons. That's 9g for my 30 gallons. Looking at the ratio for 6.5pH, I will multiply 9x1.3=11.7g So 3g Acid Buffer and 11.7g Alkaline Buffer, in my 30gallons, will make a pH of 6.5. This is for RO water. If you use tap, you will have to adjust through trial and error. My recommendation though, is to not target pH, but to Target dKH via the same method, but just use the dKH numbers.
  13. Mmiller2001
    Divide your ppm by 17.1 for degrees KH
  14. Mmiller2001
    Very close to it. Fish waste and nitrates are an Acid, so they affect those numbers some. The "pros" will tell you 1.1 to 1.5 pH drop is closer to true 30ppm. But in general 1 point is pretty safe.
  15. Mmiller2001
    I'm sensing the Force in you. These articles were invaluable to me. I love this guy. Hit the learn drop down box. https://www.2hraquarist.com/ The CO2 articles will explain everything.
  16. Mmiller2001
    Bubbles per second is different for every tank. You'd be shocked at my BPS. But luckily, we can use a 1 pH drop to come very close to calculating ppm CO2. I would, on your day off, start increasing your co2. You say your pH is 7.6. so double your BPS and wait about 30mins and test pH. We want about a 6.6. when we hit 6.6, we know our co2 is about 30ppm. So increase every 30mins and test. You can push to 1 hour as well. Keep an eye on your fish, we don't want them passing out on us! If you know your KH, you can use this scale, that I will attach, to determine ppm CO2 Yes, your CO2 is the limiting factor. So algae is out competing your plant growth. Light drives plant uptake. More light, more fertilizer and more CO2 is needed. I'm not familiar with your light, but if we can dial in CO2 and fertilizer, we can then assume algae is from too much light. To be honest, for me, this is the hardest part. I'm still dialing my lights back. It's a hard balance to strike. I'm still dialing in, but I'm almost there.
  17. Mmiller2001
    You would test the levels of macros and micros in your tank after a water change. Then before your next water change, test them again. The difference in the 2 tests is what you would dose. So if you had 20ppm Nitrates, then after a week you had 10ppm Nitrates, you would only dose 10ppm Nitrates. Yes, they make tests for Macros and Micros. If you had 30ppm Nitrates, and later had 30ppm Nitrates, you would not dose Nitrates and so on.
  18. Mmiller2001
    You definitely need to increase CO2 and fertilizer. You are looking for roughly a 1.0 pH drop. And you want that drop prior to mid light cycle. You also want 10 to 30ppm Nitrates, and match potassium, so 1:1 ratio. Phosphate should be around 10:1, so if 20ppm Nitrates, then 2 phosphate. Dosing iron from .2 to 1.0, other traces can follow iron dosing. This strategy is Estimative Index, and a 50% water change is mandatory, so EI should work well for you. What lights do you have? Your current algae problem is most likely related to low co2 and limited nutrients. https://barrreport.com/threads/ei-light-for-those-less-techy-folks.2794/
  19. Mmiller2001
    No fish goes into my tanks untreated. I say dose them.
  20. Mmiller2001
    Honestly, it's not a beginner plant. It's a higher light and CO2 requiring plant. It wants an aquasoil substrate as well. But to get at your question, just use some planting tweezers and shove it down into the substrate. Make sure it's in a very bright area. Root tabs are not necessary and won't make a difference in success or not. The other variables are more important. It's a slower grower, even in CO2 tanks.
  21. Mmiller2001
    If you want to maximize savings and dosing accuracy, then buy dry fertilizers. Test all parameters after a water change. Then test again before your next water change interval. Then only dose the amounts your tank consumes. Or learn Estimative Index dosing and PPS Pro. ADA has a working strategy as well.
  22. Mmiller2001
    No problem. Just keep a close eye on him. Watch for secondary bacterial infections. Hopefully he will heal well. Just don't forget that second dose and then the 2 weeks later. After the 5 days, do a good water change and do more frequent smaller water changes prior to his next round of medication. Flukes can be tricky and some can be pretty resistant to meds. If he flashes after 2 treatments, I'd recommend a course of PraziPro.
  23. Mmiller2001
    I forgot to mention. Increase aeration.
  24. Mmiller2001
    Thought you posted something about his fins. Maybe from another post. Ignore it. But retreat Paracleanse in a couple of weeks.
  25. Mmiller2001
    If he improves. Repeat in 2 to 3 weeks. Then address the fins.
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