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Found 11 results

  1. Do you like to use dirt in your tank, a different fertilized substrate (perhaps like fluval stratum or even root tablets), only inert substrate, or none of the above? Why do you use dirt? Why do you not use dirt? What is your experience like? You can provide as little or as much information as you'd like! I'd love to hear about it. My personal opinion is I like dirted tanks and think the pros outweigh the cons, but I wish I had researched more before jumping right in. Dirted tanks cause a bit of problems: primarily making the water muddy or murky, especially if you don't know what you're doing. I used my own mix for "dirt": peat moss, organic soil mix, clay, decaying leaf litter, and crushed lava rock. I knew this would provide nutrients to my plants, and I was confident. But this was my first time using live plants, and my first time using dirt. Gosh, I didn't know what I was getting into... I had to do five water changes the first week setting up my tank, simply because some of the dirt matter dissolved into the water. To cap off the substrate, I had to use almost two inches of fine pea gravel + sand mix. That being said, I do not regret it: I would just go about it differently in the future. So here is what I would change: get the dirt wet AND waterlogged before capping off with inert substrate or filling the tank. This will reduce the random bubbles. don't cheap out on inert substrate: get more that I think I will need. At first I only got enough to cover barely an inch deep, which was not enough. It just caused more pain and ended up mixing my inert substrate in with my dirt mixture. It was super difficult and I had to restart once or twice. after I did get my inert substrate figured out, I filled the tank all the way up before planting. Not the best decision, as I learned. Instead, next time I will fill the tank about half way and then plant. Honestly, just like planting a veggie garden, I would probably "mound" the plants with sand/gravel a little to encourage them to STAY IN THE DARN GROUND. I also learned not to be scared of weights, glues, and strings. At first I was kind of stuck-up and thought it wasn't natural and ergo bad if you used things like plant weights or if you glued/tied your anubias down. HECK NO. These are tools. Use them! That is something important I learned. When I was putting moss in my tank I quickly learned I needed string to tie em down... and when I purchased some rotala it came tied with a weight, and gosh this stuff is helpful. I love these tools and glad I tried them. So how do you feel about dirt in tanks? What did you learn?
  2. I used sterilized fishing line and cinched this Anubias Barteri to my driftwood. Just wanted opinions on how effective this will be. I know the plant gets nutrients from the water column. Also ignore the algae I’m currently waiting on my cycle to finish 😅
  3. By providing our aquarium plants with liquid fertilizers and root tabs to grow, do we actually decrease their ability to use the nitrites and nitrates in our water? Does it lower their water purifying abilities because they don't have to work as hard to get nutrients?
  4. So idk much about lighting, but I got my 55gl running 2 25$ shop lights, (50w 6k lumen, color 5k, each) water Is 79°, A 0, ni 0, na 0, gh 300+ kh 40-0 pH 7.8-8.2, I'm having the issue of the water being to clean, like no amount I feed will shift the water and my plants (water lettuce and duckweed) are going the cycle of massive growth in couple days then massive die off just as fast, blasting my water to, A 1, ni 4, na 0, then swinging it back to 0,0,0 in a 6-8 day cycle, is there any way to stabilize this cycle, cuz I'm feeding 4 tbl spoons of repashy community Plus twice daily and it's just barley keeping it stable but it keeps going out of whack, anyone know what to do or any ideas, no easy green but I am using easy carbon 6 pump per day
  5. I have been looking at my local water quality report, and was curious how I need to adjust my fertilizer dosing based on these numbers so I don't have an imbalance from dosing excess of specific macros or micros. I'm currently alternating Flourish and Easy-Green. I'm using Easy-Green cause I like the higher Potassium, and Flourish cause it has less Nitrates and Phosphates. But I'd like to get away from "all-in-ones" and utilize more of what is already in my water from the tap. I inject co2(not trying to hit 30ppm, but enough to make a difference) and use a Finnex Planted+ 24/7 HLC.
  6. I am watching my amazon sword plant pearling and it is producing a single steady stream of tiny bubbles. I started to wonder how the excess oxygen from twenty leaves gets to the one point where it forms the bubbles . That started me wondering how the nutrients from the substrate are transported from the roots to the leaves in aquatic plants which cannot use transpiration. I did try looking it up on Google but soon lost the will to live. If anyone can give me any information on how these things work I would be very grateful.
  7. Hello I'd like to think I am aware of most of my own deficiencies 🙂 but I struggle to still understand my water deficiencies causing this to my plants: My aquarium is a 100L, with soil, my water parameters No2, 3, PH, KH, GH are all 'normal' - however my plants are turning unhappy and I have blackbeard algae on most of them and on part of the wood . Pictures: My Crypto is turning red/brown, my swords seem to be melting and as said I have bearded algae. I have been putting in Flourish excel since a few days to hopefully battle the beard algae but what else can I do. Is this because of a lack of fertilizer, or will putting in fertilizer only make things worse? Thank you all Ruud
  8. I have about a good 2 inches of Stratum in my 10g that is cycling... I've been adding plants over the last 2 weeks... but I'm wondering if and when I should add any ferts... i have Bacopa, Java moss, Anubia, Moss ball, Frogbit, and some really nice dwarf water lettuce that I just picked up from a local guy today..
  9. have some established Crpyt Tropica that has been having this strange melt issue for a while now. Trying to figure out if its a deficiency. PH 7.5-7.8, GH 75-100 ppm, KH >150 ppm, Fertilizers Easy Green Root Tabs and Easy Green Liquid. You can see in the picture a green spot about 3/4 of the way up the leaf, this spot will progress for 1-3 days across the leaf until it detaches. You can see the progress in the photos this pics were taken within a day of each other.
  10. I've been studying a chart that shows plant deficiencies and what nutrients the plant is lacking and according to this chart I need magnesium. I've seen online that one can use empson salt. Has anyone used this and how much per gallon. Also I've got an api calcium test kit but it's hard to follow cause the colors are very faint. Nothing like what I've seen on YouTube. I. pretty sure I'm also missing that and I've read you can add crushed egg shells. Anyone tried this and does it work? I've got well water but we run a water softener. I know our water is still heavy on iron from the constant cleaning of our sinks and tubes. I'm assuming that's what it is. I tested my GH,KH and Calcium and heres the results. GH was 3 drops 50ppm, KH 22 drops which was through the roof at 400ppm and Calcium was like 2 drops at 60ppm. My Nitrates have significantly dropped since adding the pothos going from 80 to 100ppm to 60ppm which is huge win in my book
  11. I’ve noticed some pinholes in my java fern that I believe are indicated of a (potassium) deficiency? Currently, I’m doing a 25% water change once a week and dosing 3 mLs of easy green. The tank is a 29 gallon guppy breeding setup. Would this be an indication that I should increase the easy green dosage or should I consider dosing the specific nutrient that is in deficiency?
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