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Mmiller2001 last won the day on July 5

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  1. Some people say alternate macros and micros, but for our application, it's probably fine to dose all at once. I've read enough from some pretty good under water gardeners that say, "it's no problem". That said, I alternate Macros and Micros.
  2. The easiest way is to cut your source water with distilled or RO water. If source water was 10dGH and 10dKH and you wanted to change 4 gallons of water, you'd just add 2 gallons of distilled to 2 gallons of source. That would cause 4 gallons of 5dGH and 5dKH.
  3. Something like that is my goal. One day, one day!
  4. Probably better off buying Finnex ALC's. 3.0's are over priced and the ALC's have true reds. If you have a good budget, look at Kessel, they advertise penetration.
  5. Those Salifert test kits are pretty good. I would start dosing 1 to 2ppm PO4 and 15 to 25ppm K. I would find a good micro mix and start dosing that as well. .2 to .9ppm Fe as proxy. Start low though. I would test KH and GH as well. Fish load and feeding could be all that's needed to keep those nitrate numbers, which is not a problem, but the tank needs PO4 and K for sure.
  6. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/choosing-co2-why Here's a great resource.
  7. If your source water is 20ppm Nitrates, I would stop dosing Nitrates completely. That includes root tabs too. Unfortunately, your all in one fertilizer will dose Nitrates. You will want to look for a fertilizer line that allows you to just dose P, K and traces. Seachem Flourish products would work, but expensive. I would do 5x50% water changes over 7 days to drop the nitrates and Begin dosing 1ppm P and 15ppm K per week. I would do 25 to 40% water changes per week there after. I would also quadruple the plant load in the tank with plants like Pennywort, Pearl Weed and Dwarf Sag. Hygrophila Polysperma is an amazing plant and does well to remove nitrates. Do you know what your KH and GH are?
  8. Take a water sample and let it sit out for 24 hours and pH it. Record that number. That will be your degassed pH. Then pH the tank at peak CO2 injection about 1 hour after your light comes on. That will be peak CO2. You want a 1 to 1.5pH drop from degassed pH. That puts you close to 30ppm CO2. Also, co2 on 2 hours before lights on and off 1 hour before lights off. I would look into dry fertilizers and Estimative Index dosing. Unfortunately, Easy Green doesn't allow for ratio adjustments. I would be looking at dosing NO3 to 20-30ppm a week and easy green only doses 3ppm pere pump per 10 gallons. I have a feeling you are under dosing. I'd also increase water changes to 50% a week. This allows for low organics in the tank and also allows us to target nutrient ppm. Example, we can never exceed 2 times what we dose if all things inert. So if you dosed 10ppm of anything, did weekly 50% water changes, we could only ever have 20ppm. Stop the algae treatment too. Fix the other problems and you won't need it.
  9. I see quite a bit of mulm in the tank. Are you gravel vacuuming? And what kind of filtration are you using? In addition to what @Tihshho is asking, what is your KH and GH? What is everything? How many pumps are you using and how many root tabs? Do you know the TDS of the tank?
  10. You don't need root tabs. Probably more related to lack of co2, nutrient imbalance and/ or light. Can you tell me more about your tank. How much CO2 are you dosing, water change schedule and tank parameters. What kind of light is on the tank?
  11. I've thought about going that route, but never looked to intensely into it. Maybe when these break.
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