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  1. Photo 1: Sword is weak colored. Some of the leaves are translucent and break off. They are very crisp/crunchy when broken. Also dark green algae on older leaves. What kind of algae is this? Does this look like nitrogen deficiency? Photos 2 and 3. What are the tall reddish plants. They seem to struggle and drop lower leaves. Also some of the dark green algae in leaves. Photo 4. Reddish/maroon algae in wood. Algae on the wood doesn’t bother me. Just curious what it is and if it gives a clue about water quality. I dose Flourish comprehensive 1x week at recommended rate. I have dosed phosphate hoping that would help get rid of algae on plants. Also have dosed iron a few times which seems to disappear very quickly when tested. Irregularly dose excel. I have reduced lighting several weeks ago by putting a piece of screen under the light. This seems to help cut down on algae. Several weeks ago I did a complete rescape. Replacing all black gravel with pool filter sand and placing 1 nilocg fert tab under the swords and stem plants. I have been reluctant to dose more Flourish Comprehensive as it only has a little nitrogen and I worry about minerals building up since I don’t do water changes. I have been looking at the Nilocg potassium nitrate salts and dosing light. This is a 30g display with 20g sump containing porret foam and fluorite black gavel. I am pretty committed to the no water change concept but it would seem the sump may be working too well and the frogbit I added for asthetics only suck up more nutrients. I am open to setting an auto dose system for ferts/excel. Co2 is off the table at the moment. I appreciate everyone’s input.
  2. hello i am new to plants in my aquarium never had problems with Algae before with fake plants and bristolnose pelco .. but i am having Algae with my live plants in low tech no c2o tank i have 2 Windelov" Java Fern and 2 Banana plant and 1 Anubias Barteri and i have all in one Easy Green Fertilizer my plants specially Banana plants have the algae bad on them and also Banana Plants have holes in the leaves.. i have clean and do water changes and it still comes back been doing this for 3 months and the Algae is getting worse specially on the plants .. do i need the Easy green Carbon and Iron too? will that help ? i use sand and the Java and Anubias is on rocks .. Banana plant on top of sand i have a planted light and have adjusted the light schedule down to only 8 hours a day but the aquarium sits with no lights or windows near it except aquarium lights .. i also adjusted the food on my fish feeding to lower the waste i was thinking of getting the Easy root tabs for the banana plants .. if i get the algae under control i was going to get a few root plants too thanks for any help it is greatly appreciated
  3. There is really a void in a comprehensive talk on cleaning fish per tank size, most i have heard are not complete. Here is the problem when you go to the fish store, they may only have one or two types, and they may be for larger tanks, but no one knows it. So I bought a pleco of course and two silver fly foxes (boy do they fly, they don't exactly school they break the sound barrier). Yesterday I went to Petco and they some Otos, Siamese clean fish, Corydoras, and and golden loaches... Now I know after asking lost of questions which fish I might like, but I have my cleaning fish.
  4. I need an algae eater in my 75 gallon. This tank already has: Tiger Barbs Dojo Loach Yoyo Loach Rock Catfish (yes rock not stone) It's pretty heavily planted and I think the bioload is very easily managed by plants and bacteria. The tricky thing is getting something that can handle the tiger barbs and activity level of the loach. I mostly have algae on my tank walls and just a little on a plant or two.
  5. I haven't seen this algae well labeled online. it doesn't have the hair that I see with the black beard algae. any ideas of what it is and how to get rid of it? started just on the anubius shown here, and now I am seeing it on a few other plants in the tank like another anubius and some on an amazon sword. thanks in advance, David
  6. Okay…. This is my 55 gallon aquarium. It’s been up and running for around 3-4 months and it’s stocked with 1 electric blue jack Dempsey, 1 jewel cichlid, and 1 butterfly pleco for now. I have a pretty good amount of plants in as well, about 1/2 root feeders and 1/2 water column feeders. I recently have had problems with brown diatoms, a little algae on the glass, and hair algea on the output of my filter. I decided to starter fertilizer to help my plants get the upper hand before it go out of control (seachem root tabs and easy green liquid). I dose easy green twice a week with a water change on the day of the second dose before I put it in. The algae as a whole seems to be getting worse…. Should I cut the fertilizers to once a week? My lights are probably one too long: sunrise 5:30-8:00 and sunset 5:30-9:30, what should I set them to? My biggest problem is the brown diatoms because it’s covering the leaves and killing my plants. Any advice appreciated
  7. Anubias always seems to pick up algae in my tanks. It’s the slow growing green spot algae that I have trouble with. I can tolerate a certain amount but after a while the older leaves start to get pretty ugly. What methods have you folks developed to get this under control.
  8. Trying to keep a good algae clean up crew in my planted 125 bala tank. I currently have 10 otos, and I have 2 hillstream loaches on the way. My main problems are the fact that I have really hard water with lots of phosphates so it’s nearly impossible to keep the algae at bay even with lots of co2. The otos only eat certain algae and the balas eat all the pond snails. If I get big enough snails like mystery snails for instance will the balas try to eat them? Also same question with Amano shrimp, will they get big enough the balas won’t eat them? My balas currently are pretty young, they range in size from 4” to 1.5”
  9. My aquarium has recently gotten a bit cloudier each day with a bit of a green tint. There’s a lot of algae I have to wipe from the glass, including some spot algae that’s very difficult to wipe off. I’m running a 30 gallon hang-on-back Marineland filter on a 29-gallon. I’ve heard some people suggesting using the Mini Green Killing Machine. Does anyone have any tips, whether it’s to use that or any other methods? I would really appreciate any help. Thanks!
  10. I have a 150 gallon fairly heavily planted tank. It is about 2 1/2 months old. I dose with Easy Green twice a week and here is my lighting set up. Is this a normal part of the evaluation of a planted tank?
  11. I have a 5 gallon tank as an "extra" I was putting the fry from my guppies in there, but now only have a pair of platties which gave birth the day after I got them. I'm looking for a single plant to put in here to combat the algae. It's not out of control. my other tank cleared up nicely after I added my last round of coop plants. More and more ramshorn snails are appearing daily, but I will be removing them manually. Just curious if anyone had experimented with single plants that can starve out the algae in the water. (I already reduced the light)
  12. I know all of these have been asked before but usually one at a time, so the combo I think might be something different. This is my 20 long guppy birthing tank, it currently has 2 adult females and approximately 40/50 fry? I began by struggling with green spot algae and after stopping the use of easy green and turning lights down to 60% and only 8 hours a day it seemed to get rid of that problem but a few weeks later I started getting extreme hair algae and bba. My nitrates stay around 20 due to heavy feeding of fry. Should I consider using easy carbon to reduce algae or is there another solution I should be considering? Thank you in advance! Ben
  13. I have been having issues with staghorn algae and noticed on the co-ops identification guide there's no staghorn on there. Is there a reason why? Is it too close to another type of algae to put on there?
  14. Lately I have noticed my tank looks a little green. I noticed green algea starting to develop on my drift wood and on some of the plants. My snails(mystery) don't seem interested in it, neither does my BN pleco. The fish seem healthy and active so I know it's not bothering them i just wild like to get rid of this. Any suggestions?
  15. I have tried google to figure out what this is but so far they don't show to many picture of all the different types
  16. Hey Guys My tank broke out with brown algae spots. Want to know what algae it is and how to get rid of it. Thanks
  17. So this is my first time doing planted tanks and this one was set up for almost a year and then we moved and I re set up and now I have this crap is it bba? How do I get rid of it? It's on my Java fern and on the guppy grass
  18. What is the safest method to remove GSA from inside of an acrylic tank?
  19. These guys have lately spread across my tank, cleaning the algae for me, doing an even better job than my otocinclus. What are they? I want to thank them personally. Edit: Their size is around 1mm if this helps.
  20. I'm not an experienced fish enthusiastic, I'm struggling with plants, light and algae. I planted the aquarium 6 month ago, the plants were doing great, but starting having issues with hair algae. I lower the light intensity and the plants now almost died. The light are ON 5 hors a day. I had crytocoryne wendtii green, they were doing great, now they are just few small leaves. Just bought new plants, easy iron, easy carbon and easy green. I also have root tabs. I change water every week. Any suggestion on what to do? Thank you
  21. Good Morning! I have a 10 gallon planted tank at work. A betta, two black skirt tetras, one mystery snail & 1 nerite snail. I bought some Java ferns when I started the tank a couple months ago, but there really isn't any new growth & they are covered in this algae. I'm unable to gently rub is off. I've played with my light timing from 6-12 hours (it's a fixed timer 3, 6, 12). I'm trying to figure out what would be the best algae eater to help with this. Many I see are only be good in bigger tanks. Do you have any suggestions for helpers? Also what should I do with the plants?
  22. Ok , bought a glass lid at lfs , and a light off co op website among a few other things , having issues with algae growing almost faster then I can clean it on the glass lid . Any thoughts ? I have two snails and they keep the tank clean but they don't get the lid so wasn't sure if any one else has this issue , 10 gal tank , planted , two snails and two tetras in it , only using a sponge filter with air stone , ordering test strips today but water doesn't smell bad . Just a little earthy , also having some plant yellowing and die off , will follow up with water parameters when I get the strips
  23. Hi everyone, Just checking in with a request for any thoughts on balancing light and nutrients for our lightly planted tank to control algae. We have a 16 gallon tank with a handful of "easy" slow growing plants, and a small company of fish and snails. We've had the tank for about 10 months now. We've been trying to manage cyanobacteria and a few types of algae (lately green water and some fine, long green hairs) - with a UV sterilizer, Maracyn, cleaning the substrate and plants by hand a few times a week and water changes once weekly - usually 20%, but 40% every fourth week. We've cut back further in the past month on light to help fight the algae (still 12 hours, but at peak of 30%), and moved from a norm of <5ppm nitrates to a norm of >40ppm nitrates. We used to fertilize with Easy Green up to 20ppm nitrate, but with nitrates at >40ppm, we've switched to a single round of root tabs (5 or 6) and SeaChem Equilibrium instead of Easy Green. The tests we have (all API) show pH 7.2, ammonia 0ppm, nitrite 0ppm, nitrate 40ppm, phosphates 1ppm, KH 5 and GH 6. Any thoughts on what direction to go next? Should we keep cutting back on light in hopes that the algae will come under control, and increase water changes to deal with the nitrates? If so, should we target a specific nitrate ppm in our changes? Should we look to get below 20ppm so we can go back to adding Easy Green? Any additional tests we should be running to see whether a lack of a specific nutrient could be holding back plant growth that could consume those nitrates and maybe dent the algae? Should we be aiming for higher KH/GH figures? Planting more? The tank is in a room that gets a lot of light in the morning and is often lit at night. We cover the sides of the tank when its light is off, but a partial exposure on the top lets light in. Any thoughts on whether we should be more aggressive in blacking out the tank at night while still allowing oxygen exchange? Thanks!
  24. I understand that these things take time but my frustration is quickly getting the best of me. The Instagram pics and videos of beautiful algae free tanks doesnt help either... My tank is cycled but I am fighting what feels like a losing battle to both diatom algae and now hair algae. I have two Oto Catfish hard at work on the diatom and I have recently cut back my light to 8 hrs. I don't want to take anything out to put chemicals on but this is getting ridiculous. I'd love some help on what else to do. If "be patient and stay the course" is the best option that is totally fine. Other things: should I get something to eat the hair algae? Should I get more plants to help combat the nutrients that algae is taking in? Should I just enjoy the messy beauty of my tank? Pics below of my tank (20g Innovative Marine). Thanks in advance!
  25. 3 weeks ago I posted about my newer planted aquarium and how to diagnose algae issues. The feedback was to raise kH, pH, CO2 and reduce light. After those changes, 3 weeks later the algae situation has changed for the better, but I still am waging a battle. Looking for advice on next steps. My new stats are: Stats [Before] > After: [kH 6] > kH 8.5 [pH 6.8-7.4] > pH 7.0-7.4 [75-76 F] > 74-75 [CO2 3.5bps on with lights] > 4bps [Lighting 5000k, 27W, 10 hours] > 1500K, 18W, 10 hours [Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0 - .1] > Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5-10 [Fertilizer: 2x/week Flourish, 2x/week Pottasium, 1x/week Iron (all Seechem products)] > removed Iron, added Phosphate Algae: What's Improved. I have some floating plants that have rapidly reproduced stick the the left and right sides of the tank. That light shading, along with reduced lighting, seems to have improved the plants towards the sides. The picture below shows how the Java ferns there are now basically free of algae (the brown hairs you see are roots). Algae: What's Still A Fight As you can see below about 60% of the tank in the center has an algae problem. It's either brown or staghorn, and despite manually ripping it off every other day it keeps coming back. The Buce is growing, faster than I expected, with some good color and a few flowers, but if I do not rubbed the leaves free of algae ever other day they would be totally consumed by it. You can also see the same algae growing on the Java ferns (again, remarkably different from the ones towards the sides). Conclusion The obvious answer is to further reduce light. Which I would have to figure out how to reduce wattage while still keeping enough light for viewing (through choosing various spectrums). But, I really want to keep the growth I am seeing with the Buce. So wondering if there is another tactic to try with the fertilizer or CO2. Thanks!
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