Jump to content
Watch our video on the rules of this forum.

Mmiller2001

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,163

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Mmiller2001

  1. Mmiller2001
    What ich med did you use?
  2. Mmiller2001
    It's staghorn, do don't break your tank down. Just dose Seachem Excel and spot treat the bad areas. Increase maintenance going forward. Excel wrecks staghorn.
  3. Mmiller2001
    Bummer. I've been there and it's discouraging. I will never buy Cory cats ever again.
  4. Mmiller2001
    That one would be difficult to answer. You would have to search for research on various algae uptake rates and specific plant uptake rates. That would be one heck of a project. But post results here if you find it! <Wink>
  5. Mmiller2001
    What's your pH before your CO² turns on?
  6. Mmiller2001
    Looks like Rotala Vietnam. Shove it way down if you can.
  7. Mmiller2001
    You definitely want to dose orally. So grab some Seachem Focus too. By dosing orally, you shouldn't have any problems with your BB. If you dose in the water, it's going to cause a recycle and it's less effective. It's an internal infection that we need to get at, and it's way more cost effective to dose in the food.
  8. Mmiller2001
    My bet is columnaris/ Epistylis. All the indicators are there. All the above information is exactly what I would do. Keep up water changes Adjust GH to match their preferred levels And dose Kanaplex via food.
  9. Mmiller2001
    I use this one. Is it good? I'm not sure, but mine is accurate. I build my RO/DI water to 112ppm and it reflects the same ppm with this tester.
  10. Mmiller2001
    Addressing a few problems this week and upcoming trip out of town. Last weeks power outage coupled with 1 day of over feeding, BOOM, green water...again....6th round! I knew the second I dropped the food in that I had just made a mistake. I'll probably bust out the UV sterilizer, but I might just run a super lean feeding regiment and see if it clears itself. For those that may find themselves reading this. My stocking load is pretty high in the 75 gallon. I'm also pumping a decent amount of light into the tank. I run 2 Fluval 3.0's and it has been tricky keeping enough light on my carpeting plants at this high stocking. The low tech tanks: After water changes, I testing about 40+ppm Nitrates. So I'm only going to dose Potassium and CSM+B. 20ppm K and .69Fe via CSM+B. High tech tanks: I noticed a bit of stunted growth. After 50% water changes Nitrates tested 40+. I'm also over dosing Potassium. Going forward, I'm accounting for the Potassium Carbonate I use in my RO/DI water. That mixture contains 20ppm K. So after a 50% water change, say 7.5 to 10ppm of K? New targets for the 75 and 40 are 15ppm KNO3 3ppm K2HPO4 0ppm K2SO4 .69ppm Fe via CSM+B
  11. Mmiller2001
    I'm glad things are stabilizing! TDS pens are cheap on Amazon. Personally, I feel a TDS checker is one the most beneficial tools to have. You might want to grab one and try it out.
  12. Mmiller2001
    Yeah these are the cheaper options but they do record heat temperature over time and alert you via text and email and alarm on your phone.
  13. Mmiller2001
    I just brush off plants and do a few pats on carpets or mosses.
  14. Mmiller2001
    Excellent! Any brand that detoxifies ammonia will work. Doesn't have to be prime.
  15. Mmiller2001
    I would just have to consider it in my decision on what to do. Temperature shock and osmotic shock usually occurs immediately, but death can stagger over time. The weakest fish going first and so on. But they could certainly all go at once. 20 minutes is probably fine. I once, accidentally, did a 50% water change with a 10 degree difference with no deaths. So I would think temperature shock could be eliminated from your case. This is a more challenging scenario, and treating for bacterial and parasites is 100% what I would do. When fish are shipped, they are constantly increasing TDS via respiration and defecation, to a degree. They are also osmo regulating to compensate. One thing I do with shipped fish, is to add 1 drop of Prime the second I open the bag. As ammonia increases, and as CO² increases, the bag water becomes more acidic. Ammonia is less toxic with a pH below 7. When the bag is opened, CO² will gass off and the ammonia can take on the more toxic form quickly. I then float the bag and put a bit of tank water in. I then dump a small amount and replace that amount with tank water and repeat. This temperature acclimates and TDS acclimates over time. About an hour or 45 mins.
  16. Mmiller2001
    I pulled that email off another site who messaged Co-Op, that was their response. I assume that's everything in Easy Green. As for the nitrates, I've tried both ways, and personally, I've seen better growth with just dosing my 30ppm regardless of my fish produced Nitrates. However, I'm still learning and I'm injecting CO2. In my low tech, I'm also dosing 30ppm all front loaded, regardless of fish produced Nitrates. I have not noticed any problems and oddly, I'm seeing deficiencies. After a 50% water change, I had 40ppm Nitrates. I'm going to try just dosing K and Micros for a while and see if anything changes. For a while, I did try only dosing K and Micros in my high tech tanks. A few plants stopped growing, but nothing looked deficient or concerning. Again, I'm still learning. So I can't really say what's best. From what I read, either or works. I use EI for dosing, and success is acheived via an overdosed method. Look into PPs-Pro method. It's a lean fertilization philosophy and takes into account fish load. In case you haven't discovered this yet. Just wish they would add Easy Green. https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php
  17. Mmiller2001
    My first guess would be TDS/ Osmotic shock. My second guess would be temperature shock. You mentioned your husband basically put them in after arriving. My third guess is an internal bacterial infection. I would follow all the advice above, but more losses could come as osmotic shock can kill over several days. Turn all lights off or way down.
  18. Mmiller2001
    Please do. Spread it everywhere. I believe that's per pump per 10 gallons.
  19. Mmiller2001
  20. Mmiller2001
    Personally, I would buy an RO/DI system. How much money have you lost in fish up to this point? You can grab a 3 stage RO system for 150 bucks. This will eliminate any unknowns in your water. Seachem buffers work really well, but in the presence of zero TDS water. Using buffers in tap water can be a nightmare. I bought Mg and Ca and potassium Carbonate 9 months ago. Total cost, 25 bucks. That's everything you need to mineralize water. I will easily get another 9 months from what remains. I've learned the best way to figure out what I'm doing wrong was to eliminate what I'm doing right. And switching to RO/DI water was a game changer.
  21. Mmiller2001
    Bummer, lets hope the others respond well. Mine showed improvement in 24 hours from the first dose.
  22. Mmiller2001
    Looks great! Amazing what CO² does to a tank!
  23. Mmiller2001
    I would stop any other meds and slowly, slowly drop temperature back to normal.
  24. Mmiller2001
    How many days have you dosed ichX?
  25. Mmiller2001
    When I was doing blackwater, my tanks were pretty smelly. So I removed any extra material covering the tanks to allow more fresh air to enter around the surface. Within a few days, the tanks smelled normal. I even cut out the plastic holding the glass lids together.
×
×
  • Create New...