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  1. i saw this on my swordtail. i cant tell what it is. it looks like a white patch that is mostly smooth. some of the scale appear to be white but it is really hard to tell cause she wont let me see it. she currently has ich and im in the process of treating the tank with ich-x.
  2. Nitrate: 5 Nitrite: 0 gh: 300 kh: 120 ph: 8 chlorine: 0 ammonia: 0 temp: 80f Ok, bit of a long story but bear with me. I got 4 platies and 4 mollies from ac about 4 weeks ago. I quarantined them and treated maracyn then para cleanse, near the end of the para cleanse treatment the male molly got a few cloudy white spots and died about 4 days later. I then dosed ich x every day for 3 days. During that time A platty died, I hadn’t seen any spots on her or any of the other fish the whole time. Her body was quite crooked and she hadn’t eaten for several days so that makes me think it was unrelated? I then put the 6 remaining fish in my 30 gal planted community tank. (6 petricola cats and a bristlenose). The next day I noticed one tiny white spot on one of the platies so I put her in quarantine and started treating with ich x. She kept just the one spot for about a week then got like five more. The cloudy white spots seam to have gotten a bit lighter since. I read about stress ich and am wondering if it could be that? See dots on her tail. A week ago I noticed 2 of the Molly’s had lots of cloudy white spots so I quarantined them to. Their spots mostly went away after a few days but there are still some cloudy ones that don’t look quite like their white markings. (Looks like there are more spots that there really are due to plant bits in water) Another thing I noticed is that my aquarium glass had a bunch of cloudy white spots. See third pic. Idk if it’s related or just algae. I cleaned them off since then. I have been treating ich x inconsistently for about 2 weeks. They seam to have gotten a bit better but I guess I am wondering if I should continue or do something else? I am also wondering if it is really ich or if it could be velvet? They all eat and act normally. I might be overreacting as it seams to be getting better, but I want to be sure that I am doing the right thing. thank you! And again sorry for the long explanation!
  3. Is this ich on my betta fish? It just got out of quarantine and I premedicated with ich X so if it is I’m not sure what to do
  4. Let's start with the swim bladder most case of swim bladder are cause by over feeding and the stomach putting pressure on the swim bladder constipation or bacterial infection of the swim bladder and injury to the swim bladder Frist I would recommend fasting your fish for a couple of days and doing epsom salt baths 1 table spoon for 2 gallons for no more than 15 minutes 2-3 times a day as eposm salt acts as a muscle relaxants to help with constipation if that has no effect then I would treat with antibiotic medication in food Kanaplex is my go to antibiotic treatment you could also use maracyn2 and furan2 are not very effective at a higher pH above 7.8 if your in the UK I would treat with Sera baktopur direct tables if it's a damage swim bladder caused by an injury it case of wait and see some will improve given time other will not improve and may have to be euthanize if you think there suffering clove oil is one of the most humane ways to euthanize your fish
  5. Greetings all! I'm really hoping the collecting knowledge & experience here can figure this out. I'm stumped The basics: these are "green lightning" platies. I have four in a 10 gal hospital tank, separated when I realized they had a problem. It started with a small black spot on top of one's head and I started researching it. Soon after I noticed all four of these same type (no other platies in main tank) were looking ratty and I moved them out. That was weeks ago and things have slowly gotten worse. I have tried treating with Melafix first, then added Pimafix to a daily alternating schedule, no improvement. I later noticed a few little while spots on one tail and then switched to ich-x for several days now. They've all four just continued getting worse and now there are black spots on one or two of the others, one having very pale and scraggly looking scales with red showing through... My first question is if they can even be saved. Their activity and appetite are unchanged and totally normal still, which made getting any useful pics difficult. I'm attaching the best I could manage. I've regularly checked water params and all are normal, and did a 50% water change last night as part of the ich-x instructions. Here's the current... very soft water params. Seems I'd forgotten to check more than the API master kit does. Will start trying to figure out how much SeaChem Equilibrium the tank needs. I have a RO/DI system for tank water. Tank size: 10 gal Ammonia: 0 Nitrites: 0 Nitrates: 0 Hardness: 0-25ppm Buffer: 40ppm PH: 6.8 Now that I see the water is so soft, could that be hurting or preventing their recovery? Any recommendations on how to adjust the hardness/buffer/ph without doing a chemistry experiment? I tried the Equilibrium in the main tank once and the hardness went to what I wanted (I think) but the PH shot to 8.4+, which I did not expect... I've let that come back down on it's own from water changes. Hopefully I've included enough info. Any and all help is appreciated.
  6. Sorry for the long post but there's been a lot. If you just want to know the details of right now it's the last paragraph. I started this tank 3 weeks ago and probably tried to many things at once. Sorry fist tank. I started with a few plants and added frits ammonia and frits 700 to seed the tank. I also used some koi tank filter sponge water in my HOB. I then went on a trip for several days and dropped a couple small pieces of raw chicken in there to hold the ammonia. Came back and the tank was at 6 ammonia so got them out and did a change. After that I added some fish food and kept it around 2-3 ammonia. A week later I ended up getting a few nerite snails and since it was my sons birthday I got 6 cardinals and kept dosing with prime every 24-36 hours in small amounts for the tank. I did a 50% water change a week later and this whole time I never saw any nitrites. After talking with some people they suggested getting more bioload and use stability instead so I added the cardinals and betta and I've been dosing stability and prime. The day they got in I also did the med trio per the article below and everyone did fine and I fed them a little here and there. Well 2 days ago I decided to get the rest of my fish as its been 3 weeks and the LFS has been holding them for me but they don't have alot of space. I got them in and fed them the next day a little pinch of food and some betta bites. Everyone was fine. Last night I fed them bloodworms to build up some strength before having to fast again during being medicated again. I also did a 50% water change last night and while the water was low trimmed some plants back and added a banana plant and duck weed. SO I'm sure they're stressed. I also turned the lights out and left them alone the rest of the night. The water change did leave a ton of oxygen in the tank. Everything was coated in small bubbles so I left the air filter off for about an hour and it cleared up eventually. Just dosed the med trio again this morning and just now saw my khulis are all out and swimming like crazy and have a few white spots. They never come out in a group and if they do they're all hiding under a plant. My betta is acting stressed too but that might be because the khulis are all in his spot and going crazy. I also found my Hillstream loach dead. He must have been dead a couple days and died in the house where the khulis list as he was stripped of skin and all his fins were chewed off. I honestly thought he was a rock at first since he was all white. My question is, is this really ich and is that why my khulis are swimming around like crazy? Tank - 29 gallon Chemicals and meds used Stability - 10 mls as I just changed the water Prime - dosed for 20 gallons Flourish dosed for 30 gallons so half a cap Ich-X - 15 mls Fritz Paracleanse - 3 packs Mardel Maracyn - 3 packs Dosed per - How to Treat Sick Aquarium Fish (Even If You’re Not Sure What’s Wrong) – Aquarium Co-Op (aquariumcoop.com) Water pH - 6.8 GH - 6-7 Kh - 1-2 ammonia - 1.5 nitrites - 0 nitrates - 5 Temp - 78 Fish Cardinals - 18 Harlequins - 6 Pygmy Corries - 8 Khuli loaches - 6 Betta - 1 Snails - 6ish
  7. Iris


    I’m not having luck with getting rid of ick using ichx using per instructions since 8/27 thought it was gone so treated for 2 more days and it came back ordered more ichx. How long do I wait to begin new medication. 29 gal planted tank. Raised Temp to 80 Bolivian ram, hill stream loach, tetras & Ottos.
  8. FredF


    Hi, I am requested some help from someone who has a more experience with these types of diseases. The water parameters are as follows: pH 6.8 - fluval stratum is substrate so pH is lower Nitrates Less than 10 per test strip Hardness - higher than 150, lower than 300 on the Coop test strips Nitrite - 0 Ammonia -0 KH/Buffer - low 40 (again due to fluval stratum) Water Temperature - 78 This seems to be only affecting my 4 or 5 cardinal tetras. I thought initially it was ick, but none of the fish have a ton of spots. The pics you see below are typical, there are one or two spots on them, and its only a few fish. All fish appear to be acting normal (including the infected ones), and eating well. The tank is a month old. I think maybe I might have added too many fish at once on my last round of finalizing the tank, 12 cardinals 6 rummynose and 2 angels (quarter size body) and a red bristlenose pleco. That said, the tank is planted fairly heavy, and I have not had any ammonia readings on any tests I have run, which include test strips and the seachem alert. I am not injecting C02. I was out of the hobby for 10 years but now am hooked again, so I'm not new, but not necessarily up to date either. Right now I am treating the tank with Tetra Life Guard (which on a 75 is not cheap), because I really wasn't certain what this is. However, after day 4, nothing appears to have changed on these fish. That said all inhabitants seem fine as well. I'm at a bit of a loss what to do. Thanks in advance for any advice
  9. I bought some Rummynose Tetras and they have come down with what I believe is Ich. The problem is that I have been dosing Ich X as directed for the past 8 days and while during the first 4 days it seemed to have been working, it never completely left and the now is as bad as it has ever been. I don't want to raise the temp because I have a hill stream loach in the tank and this is my only tank. 20 gallon, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate (I have been doing daily water changes dosing Ich X), 150ppm GH, 40ppm KH, 6.4-6.8 pH
  10. I’ve had 5 ottos and a BN pleco in iso since 8/4. 4 days ago my BN had white spots all over. It was starting on the ottos too. I raised temp to 80 and started ich x treatment per the label. The ottos are already doing great (I did lose one). The pleco now looks like gold spots instead of white spots and its tail is frayed. Everyone is eating and active. pH 7.8 A 0 Ni 0 Na 5 kh 3 gh 7 Do I have two diseases going on? thanks!
  11. Stacy Z


    It looks like the new Cherry Barbs are not going to make it to the display tank from Quarantine. From Petco. They got ick and even though it cleared on the 4th day in the 10 gallon with daily water changes, they are dying from ulcers daily now. Went from 9 to 3. It’s sad they are my FAV nano fish. I wanted more for my display tank. I’m just sad for them now. It’s hard to buy from Online because you can’t get a 2/1 male to female ratio but Petco isn’t any better. Ugh Poor Guys. I got other CB from Petco before and no problems. Though I can say the Ick X worked right away. It was just a bad batch of fish!
  12. I have 2 Amazon puffers I got from someone locally almost 4 weeks ago. They were doing well originally in the 10 gallon quarantine tank I have for just them and a sponge filter. I noticed a couple white dots so I did ich-x and daily water changes and they looked better in 4 days. Then all of a sudden they were completely covered in white spots, too many to count. I continued the ich-x and this time added 1TBS salt (replacing about 1 tsp after each 30% water change), and Maracyn because their fins looked a little torn up. With no signs of improvement after 3 days I added paraclense too. So they are on the Med trio now and I upped the temp to 80 and covered the top of the tank so it’s not as bright. Their fins are really clamped and they have been itching themselves on the bottom of the tank. Now one of them hangs out near the top of the tank vertically with tail up and did not eat. I’m really unsure what to do now and don’t want to lose them. Please any suggestions. <5 nitrates 0 nitrite 0 ammonia 150 gh 40 kh 6.8 ph 80* F (The white stuff in the photo is meds I just put in)
  13. I made a rookie mistake and introduced Ich to one of my display tanks via some plants that I got from Petco. I have removed all of the fish, and they are being treated separately in a hospital tank. I cranked the temperature in the display tank up to 92, hoping to kill the Ich without killing my BB. Does anyone know if this is an effective method, and how long I will need to keep the temperature raised to ensure the Ich is gone?
  14. MaxM

    Ich and Heaters

    I have a Betta fish that I think has Ich. I only have a 1 gallon tank I can use right now (until next week) to use as a quarantine tank. They recommend heating the water to 28-30 Celsius. The smallest heater I have is a 50W heater. That is clearly overkill. The question is whether I can use it or is it dangerous to use too strong a heater? I have Ich medication in that quarantine tank. Is it better to hold off for Sunday/Monday to add a heater?
  15. Ph 7.2 nitrate, nitrite, ammonia all 0 (still doing a fish in cycle) hardness 300 kh 80 My fish have ich. I’m actually a little happy about it, ive never had to treat ich before so it’s another notch in the fish keeping belt and my tank is still getting set up and is minimally stocked. 3 HRP and a fire mouth, all about 1” and a 2.5” bristlenose. I had a RTS who died the day after purchase (patient zero for ich). So far only 2 of the HRP are showing the spots but the Firemouth has lost a lot of color, although he is also bottom of the food chain int the tank. So far I have started treating with doing a 50% water change, adding 45 tablespoons of aquarium salt (90g tank) and cranking the heat from 78 to 82. Anything else recommended to do? Should I adjust feeding or lighting or anything like that? What should I be looking out for?
  16. I bought 4 clown loaches from the LFS to get rid of my pond snails. 2 weeks later and they have tiny white spots over them. I don't have a quarantine tank so they went straight into my 300 litre tank. In that tank I also have 20 neon tetras, 4 Cory's, 3 kuhli loaches, 4 Otto's, 5 Harlequin rasboras, 2 mystery snails that have just laid eggs, and a dwarf gourami. I do have one other small 20l tank that has 5 guppies and a molly as residents. I have read that clown loaches have their own specific white spot that they get, so I'm hoping it doesn't spread to the other fish. What would be my best course of action to cure my loaches? I don't mind utilising the smaller tank if needed. Also should I be asking for my money back on the infested loaches?
  17. Mistakes were made...I might be a terrible fish keeper. I keep my aquarium in my office, it is 10 Gallons. Planted with various small crypts, a couple of red flam swords and wendlov java fern. Water parameters by CoOp test strips are pictured below but the readings are Nitrate 25, Nitrate 0, GH 300, KH 120, pH 8.0, Chlorine 0, Ammonia 0. I have 5 or 6 otocinclus (they're my favorite fish), 3 platys, a few amano and bloody mary shrimp, a nerite snail, 3 fresh water limpets, and pond snails. Right now the aquarium is unheated because my old heater shorted and killed most of my bloody mary shrimp, I hadn't replaced it because my office isn't cooled at night or on weekends and summer in Texas is warm even when it's a cool summer like we are having. I have been restocking my aquarium after most of my fish were given away just before covid hit. I added 5 otos from my fish store 2 weeks ago today. Then a friend gave me the 3 platys from his tank early last week. I'm horrible because I didn't quarantine either groups because there weren't really any fish in the aquarium other than 2 otos that I had kept pre-covid. I've never had ich before so I'm sure came from either the fish store or my friend's aquarium. Shame on me for not doing quarantine meds, lesson learned. When I left my office on Thursday of last week everything was fine, I was out of town and returned to my office today. When I got to my office one of my otos had died leaving 5 or 6 (a couple of them hide so never sure how many there are) and all my other fish had white spots on them. I have looked on the forum and online and I think it's ich. I know that the best treatments for ich are heat, salt and ich-X. I treated my aquarium with ich-X today. I am getting a temporary heater that is preset to 78F in the morning, that is the best I could do locally, but one that is adjustable will arrive on Friday from those people with the smile on their logo (emergency had to get it here really quick, otherwise I would have ordered it from the CoOp). As soon as the adjustable heater arrives I will up the temp to 80F. I already run 2 small sponge filters but I went ahead and added another air stone to make sure there's plenty of oxygen in the water. But I still have some questions: 1. I read that the treatment is to dose ich-X everyday after a 1/3 water change. What should I do over the weekend? I won't have access to my office for 2 days so I won't be able to do water changes and dose the ich-X? 2. I know that aquarium salt is helpful, I have some that I bought a long time ago from the CoOp, but I read that otos might be sensitive to it. Does anyone have experience in using salt with otos? How much can I use with otos? If salt is the best thing I am not afraid to sacrifice my plants. 3. I think my fish are pretty eaten up with the ich parasites, should I treat them with antibiotics too to prevent secondary infections or should I wait it out and see how they do? 4. Is 80F going to be safe for my fish? Should I go warmer than that? I know that 86F will kill the ich parasite but I don't want to hurt any of my inhabitants other than the ich. 5. Bonus question: I know aquarium salt is bad for plants, will it kill hair algae? Thank you for reading my long winded tail of woe. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I feel like I failed my fish and I'm afraid I'm going to fail them again because I can't do the treatment as recommended.
  18. Hi everyone, So I recently got a Pleco that got ich and it rapidly spread to a couple other fish. I caught it within a day or two of the spots appearing and started treating with Ich-X. I started treatments last week Wednesday and have been dosing daily per the instructions. My question is, how long should I keep dosing? I've heard/read that you should keep dosing up to a week after the spots dissipate to kill any free swimming parasites. My issue is I'm possibly going away for this upcoming weekend, and I dont want my absence of dosing to promote the parasite to repopulate. That being said, I can cancel my plans for the weekend as it's just a short trip up north and not some long planned vacation. Thoughts or recommendations?
  19. Just throwing this out there to hear everyone's thoughts. Instead of using meth blue on rainbow eggs I have been using ich-x with success. I was wondering if I'm just getting lucky or if it is a viable replacement? I know the active ingredient is malachite green but its effects are supposed to be similar. What are your thoughts?
  20. I start a thread about these diseases to give people more information on these common disease
  21. So, I've read all about removing carbon from the filter, increasing temperature, adding additional aeration, adding salt, etc during medicine treatment for ich. Nowhere have I been able to find advice on whether or not I should continue or temporarily discontinue my CO2 while treating my tank for ich 😂. Anyone have any suggestion on this? Thanks in advance! Collette
  22. Hello, I posted a while back that my Platies were rubbing against my Aquarium plants and started treating them for flukes with paracleanse. Then I noticed one of my Rummy Nose Tetras with white spots and then the Platies got white spots. So I stopped the Paracleanse and switched to Ich-X and the white spots disappeared after treating for 4 days but the Platies started rubbing against plants again and not have any white spots so I stopped Ich-X and went back to Paracleanse. Now the Platies have clamped fins and the white spots are back on the Rummy Noses and Platies. I’m on day 2 of the Paracleanse and not sure if I should stop and go back to Ich-X or finish the Paracleanse, but the white spots have really come back and regret stopping Ich-X treatment. All my water parameters are 0 with the Ph at 6.8 after adding crushed coral in a heavily planted tank . I don’t know what to do at this point and it’s hard seeing my fish go through this.
  23. Hello everyone, Hoping for some advice. I purchased 2 Figure 8 Puffers 6 days ago. They are in a 32g Fluval Flex that was setup as FW. This tank has been setup/cycled for a few months, originally was housing some smaller cichlids prior to moving them to my main tank and prepping for puffers. They are the only fish in the tank. I purchased one smaller one (about 2in) and a larger one (probably 3.5" or so) that I assume is much older. Both showed normal "new home" symptoms for the first day. The smaller fish began eating after a day, the larger did not show any interest in food but seemed fine. The fish were held in FW at the LFS I purchased them from. About 3 days ago, the larger one (pictured) still had no appetite and started to display a slight white film over one eye. I researched a bit online and decided to dose with Melafix, thinking it was due to possibly injuring the eye from stress glass surfing or bumping into decor. Yesterday (2 days of Melafix), it had gotten much worse, now much less translucent film and visibly white. Only on one eye, still not eating. Today, I noticed it was starting to develop spots on its back that looks like Ich (the pictures look much worse than in person). I decided to visit my LFS for some advice. They strongly advised against using Melafix and suggested ParaGuard and to begin raising the SG slowly. I did a 15% WC and brought the SG up to 1.002/3ish (hard to get exact number on the hydrometer I purchased, I ordered a refractometer this afternoon). I had planned on beginning the move to brackish after 2/3 weeks and the puffers were comfortable with their new home and myself. Larger puffer is very lethargic, staying near the bottom for the most part with the occasional exploring. It doesn't seem to like the lights so I have been keeping them off. It's belly is occasionally lite grey (approx 20% of belly) while floating near the bottom which could just be it camouflaging and not stress? The greyness goes away almost immediately when it starts to swim around again. The smaller puffer seems perfectly fine still, eating as much as I'll give. Swimming around happily, checking on his buddy. pH: 7.5 (can raise with Malawi buffer I have for my cichlids if suggested, LFS said that marine salt will raise this and will test again in the morning EST) Tank has aragonite sand and Texas Holey Rock that was purchased specifically to keep PH higher. It was reading at 8.0 all week on my liquid test but LFS stated it was 7.5 today with a digital tool today. Nitrates: <10ppm Hardness: Reading between 150-300 on Multistrip Tests from coop store Nitrite: 0 Ammonia: Has been 0 all week on Coop test strips and API Liquid Tests. LFS tested water today and said they detected trace amounts <.10. This may be some food I have added over the last 2/3 days trying to get the larger one to eat. Should be resolved by the WC I did today. KH/Buffer: Between 40-80 on the multi test strip Water Temperature: Was 78 until raising to 82 over the past 3 days incrementally. I have read that higher temp is good for treating Ich. I am aware that I may not be able to save it but even advice on something I may have done wrong is helpful. I have tried to be as diligent in research and care as possible and it sucks to see something wrong, especially if it's something I did. I have been looking forward to getting these fish for months now :/ Thanks everyone, Ben
  24. Started with a few fish around March this year. First tank Mickey Mouse platys and a couple mollies. Been learning so much from aquarium coop on youtube and forum on website. Can’t believe all the great plants I’ve purchased past few months that are doing great (just had fake until I kept reading about benefits of live plants). Just so much to learn. Well regarding Cory thank you so very much on your advice to help my betta “Baby Blue”. Just a few days after I got her I noticed she had Popeye. Followed your advice and she is doing great! Have added live plants and a betta log to her 10 gal home. Not sure if she is blind in one eye but after using salt as you suggested she seems so happy and healthy now. While tending to her I lost one of my mollies in the other tank. Looking at the rest I noticed one platy had ick. Thank you Cory first for recommending one keeps ick on hand which I had and then I watched and followed your recommendation on treating ick. Day 4 of water changes and ick-x meds and no sign of ick now. Hopefully stopped the cycle. Both of you are so AWESOME ! Thank You Both so much for being there for us newbies. ~ Nini
  25. Heat treatment has worked wonders in the past against ich, but can pandas take 30°c? Anyone got experience with this? I know they prefer cooler water than most corys.
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