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  1. Iris


    I’m not having luck with getting rid of ick using ichx using per instructions since 8/27 thought it was gone so treated for 2 more days and it came back ordered more ichx. How long do I wait to begin new medication. 29 gal planted tank. Raised Temp to 80 Bolivian ram, hill stream loach, tetras & Ottos.
  2. FredF


    Hi, I am requested some help from someone who has a more experience with these types of diseases. The water parameters are as follows: pH 6.8 - fluval stratum is substrate so pH is lower Nitrates Less than 10 per test strip Hardness - higher than 150, lower than 300 on the Coop test strips Nitrite - 0 Ammonia -0 KH/Buffer - low 40 (again due to fluval stratum) Water Temperature - 78 This seems to be only affecting my 4 or 5 cardinal tetras. I thought initially it was ick, but none of the fish have a ton of spots. The pics you see below are typical, there are one or two spots on them, and its only a few fish. All fish appear to be acting normal (including the infected ones), and eating well. The tank is a month old. I think maybe I might have added too many fish at once on my last round of finalizing the tank, 12 cardinals 6 rummynose and 2 angels (quarter size body) and a red bristlenose pleco. That said, the tank is planted fairly heavy, and I have not had any ammonia readings on any tests I have run, which include test strips and the seachem alert. I am not injecting C02. I was out of the hobby for 10 years but now am hooked again, so I'm not new, but not necessarily up to date either. Right now I am treating the tank with Tetra Life Guard (which on a 75 is not cheap), because I really wasn't certain what this is. However, after day 4, nothing appears to have changed on these fish. That said all inhabitants seem fine as well. I'm at a bit of a loss what to do. Thanks in advance for any advice
  3. I bought some Rummynose Tetras and they have come down with what I believe is Ich. The problem is that I have been dosing Ich X as directed for the past 8 days and while during the first 4 days it seemed to have been working, it never completely left and the now is as bad as it has ever been. I don't want to raise the temp because I have a hill stream loach in the tank and this is my only tank. 20 gallon, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate (I have been doing daily water changes dosing Ich X), 150ppm GH, 40ppm KH, 6.4-6.8 pH
  4. I’ve had 5 ottos and a BN pleco in iso since 8/4. 4 days ago my BN had white spots all over. It was starting on the ottos too. I raised temp to 80 and started ich x treatment per the label. The ottos are already doing great (I did lose one). The pleco now looks like gold spots instead of white spots and its tail is frayed. Everyone is eating and active. pH 7.8 A 0 Ni 0 Na 5 kh 3 gh 7 Do I have two diseases going on? thanks!
  5. Stacy Z


    It looks like the new Cherry Barbs are not going to make it to the display tank from Quarantine. From Petco. They got ick and even though it cleared on the 4th day in the 10 gallon with daily water changes, they are dying from ulcers daily now. Went from 9 to 3. It’s sad they are my FAV nano fish. I wanted more for my display tank. I’m just sad for them now. It’s hard to buy from Online because you can’t get a 2/1 male to female ratio but Petco isn’t any better. Ugh Poor Guys. I got other CB from Petco before and no problems. Though I can say the Ick X worked right away. It was just a bad batch of fish!
  6. I have 2 Amazon puffers I got from someone locally almost 4 weeks ago. They were doing well originally in the 10 gallon quarantine tank I have for just them and a sponge filter. I noticed a couple white dots so I did ich-x and daily water changes and they looked better in 4 days. Then all of a sudden they were completely covered in white spots, too many to count. I continued the ich-x and this time added 1TBS salt (replacing about 1 tsp after each 30% water change), and Maracyn because their fins looked a little torn up. With no signs of improvement after 3 days I added paraclense too. So they are on the Med trio now and I upped the temp to 80 and covered the top of the tank so it’s not as bright. Their fins are really clamped and they have been itching themselves on the bottom of the tank. Now one of them hangs out near the top of the tank vertically with tail up and did not eat. I’m really unsure what to do now and don’t want to lose them. Please any suggestions. <5 nitrates 0 nitrite 0 ammonia 150 gh 40 kh 6.8 ph 80* F (The white stuff in the photo is meds I just put in)
  7. I made a rookie mistake and introduced Ich to one of my display tanks via some plants that I got from Petco. I have removed all of the fish, and they are being treated separately in a hospital tank. I cranked the temperature in the display tank up to 92, hoping to kill the Ich without killing my BB. Does anyone know if this is an effective method, and how long I will need to keep the temperature raised to ensure the Ich is gone?
  8. MaxM

    Ich and Heaters

    I have a Betta fish that I think has Ich. I only have a 1 gallon tank I can use right now (until next week) to use as a quarantine tank. They recommend heating the water to 28-30 Celsius. The smallest heater I have is a 50W heater. That is clearly overkill. The question is whether I can use it or is it dangerous to use too strong a heater? I have Ich medication in that quarantine tank. Is it better to hold off for Sunday/Monday to add a heater?
  9. Ph 7.2 nitrate, nitrite, ammonia all 0 (still doing a fish in cycle) hardness 300 kh 80 My fish have ich. I’m actually a little happy about it, ive never had to treat ich before so it’s another notch in the fish keeping belt and my tank is still getting set up and is minimally stocked. 3 HRP and a fire mouth, all about 1” and a 2.5” bristlenose. I had a RTS who died the day after purchase (patient zero for ich). So far only 2 of the HRP are showing the spots but the Firemouth has lost a lot of color, although he is also bottom of the food chain int the tank. So far I have started treating with doing a 50% water change, adding 45 tablespoons of aquarium salt (90g tank) and cranking the heat from 78 to 82. Anything else recommended to do? Should I adjust feeding or lighting or anything like that? What should I be looking out for?
  10. I bought 4 clown loaches from the LFS to get rid of my pond snails. 2 weeks later and they have tiny white spots over them. I don't have a quarantine tank so they went straight into my 300 litre tank. In that tank I also have 20 neon tetras, 4 Cory's, 3 kuhli loaches, 4 Otto's, 5 Harlequin rasboras, 2 mystery snails that have just laid eggs, and a dwarf gourami. I do have one other small 20l tank that has 5 guppies and a molly as residents. I have read that clown loaches have their own specific white spot that they get, so I'm hoping it doesn't spread to the other fish. What would be my best course of action to cure my loaches? I don't mind utilising the smaller tank if needed. Also should I be asking for my money back on the infested loaches?
  11. Mistakes were made...I might be a terrible fish keeper. I keep my aquarium in my office, it is 10 Gallons. Planted with various small crypts, a couple of red flam swords and wendlov java fern. Water parameters by CoOp test strips are pictured below but the readings are Nitrate 25, Nitrate 0, GH 300, KH 120, pH 8.0, Chlorine 0, Ammonia 0. I have 5 or 6 otocinclus (they're my favorite fish), 3 platys, a few amano and bloody mary shrimp, a nerite snail, 3 fresh water limpets, and pond snails. Right now the aquarium is unheated because my old heater shorted and killed most of my bloody mary shrimp, I hadn't replaced it because my office isn't cooled at night or on weekends and summer in Texas is warm even when it's a cool summer like we are having. I have been restocking my aquarium after most of my fish were given away just before covid hit. I added 5 otos from my fish store 2 weeks ago today. Then a friend gave me the 3 platys from his tank early last week. I'm horrible because I didn't quarantine either groups because there weren't really any fish in the aquarium other than 2 otos that I had kept pre-covid. I've never had ich before so I'm sure came from either the fish store or my friend's aquarium. Shame on me for not doing quarantine meds, lesson learned. When I left my office on Thursday of last week everything was fine, I was out of town and returned to my office today. When I got to my office one of my otos had died leaving 5 or 6 (a couple of them hide so never sure how many there are) and all my other fish had white spots on them. I have looked on the forum and online and I think it's ich. I know that the best treatments for ich are heat, salt and ich-X. I treated my aquarium with ich-X today. I am getting a temporary heater that is preset to 78F in the morning, that is the best I could do locally, but one that is adjustable will arrive on Friday from those people with the smile on their logo (emergency had to get it here really quick, otherwise I would have ordered it from the CoOp). As soon as the adjustable heater arrives I will up the temp to 80F. I already run 2 small sponge filters but I went ahead and added another air stone to make sure there's plenty of oxygen in the water. But I still have some questions: 1. I read that the treatment is to dose ich-X everyday after a 1/3 water change. What should I do over the weekend? I won't have access to my office for 2 days so I won't be able to do water changes and dose the ich-X? 2. I know that aquarium salt is helpful, I have some that I bought a long time ago from the CoOp, but I read that otos might be sensitive to it. Does anyone have experience in using salt with otos? How much can I use with otos? If salt is the best thing I am not afraid to sacrifice my plants. 3. I think my fish are pretty eaten up with the ich parasites, should I treat them with antibiotics too to prevent secondary infections or should I wait it out and see how they do? 4. Is 80F going to be safe for my fish? Should I go warmer than that? I know that 86F will kill the ich parasite but I don't want to hurt any of my inhabitants other than the ich. 5. Bonus question: I know aquarium salt is bad for plants, will it kill hair algae? Thank you for reading my long winded tail of woe. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I feel like I failed my fish and I'm afraid I'm going to fail them again because I can't do the treatment as recommended.
  12. Hi everyone, So I recently got a Pleco that got ich and it rapidly spread to a couple other fish. I caught it within a day or two of the spots appearing and started treating with Ich-X. I started treatments last week Wednesday and have been dosing daily per the instructions. My question is, how long should I keep dosing? I've heard/read that you should keep dosing up to a week after the spots dissipate to kill any free swimming parasites. My issue is I'm possibly going away for this upcoming weekend, and I dont want my absence of dosing to promote the parasite to repopulate. That being said, I can cancel my plans for the weekend as it's just a short trip up north and not some long planned vacation. Thoughts or recommendations?
  13. Just throwing this out there to hear everyone's thoughts. Instead of using meth blue on rainbow eggs I have been using ich-x with success. I was wondering if I'm just getting lucky or if it is a viable replacement? I know the active ingredient is malachite green but its effects are supposed to be similar. What are your thoughts?
  14. I start a thread about these diseases to give people more information on these common disease
  15. So, I've read all about removing carbon from the filter, increasing temperature, adding additional aeration, adding salt, etc during medicine treatment for ich. Nowhere have I been able to find advice on whether or not I should continue or temporarily discontinue my CO2 while treating my tank for ich 😂. Anyone have any suggestion on this? Thanks in advance! Collette
  16. Hello, I posted a while back that my Platies were rubbing against my Aquarium plants and started treating them for flukes with paracleanse. Then I noticed one of my Rummy Nose Tetras with white spots and then the Platies got white spots. So I stopped the Paracleanse and switched to Ich-X and the white spots disappeared after treating for 4 days but the Platies started rubbing against plants again and not have any white spots so I stopped Ich-X and went back to Paracleanse. Now the Platies have clamped fins and the white spots are back on the Rummy Noses and Platies. I’m on day 2 of the Paracleanse and not sure if I should stop and go back to Ich-X or finish the Paracleanse, but the white spots have really come back and regret stopping Ich-X treatment. All my water parameters are 0 with the Ph at 6.8 after adding crushed coral in a heavily planted tank . I don’t know what to do at this point and it’s hard seeing my fish go through this.
  17. Hello everyone, Hoping for some advice. I purchased 2 Figure 8 Puffers 6 days ago. They are in a 32g Fluval Flex that was setup as FW. This tank has been setup/cycled for a few months, originally was housing some smaller cichlids prior to moving them to my main tank and prepping for puffers. They are the only fish in the tank. I purchased one smaller one (about 2in) and a larger one (probably 3.5" or so) that I assume is much older. Both showed normal "new home" symptoms for the first day. The smaller fish began eating after a day, the larger did not show any interest in food but seemed fine. The fish were held in FW at the LFS I purchased them from. About 3 days ago, the larger one (pictured) still had no appetite and started to display a slight white film over one eye. I researched a bit online and decided to dose with Melafix, thinking it was due to possibly injuring the eye from stress glass surfing or bumping into decor. Yesterday (2 days of Melafix), it had gotten much worse, now much less translucent film and visibly white. Only on one eye, still not eating. Today, I noticed it was starting to develop spots on its back that looks like Ich (the pictures look much worse than in person). I decided to visit my LFS for some advice. They strongly advised against using Melafix and suggested ParaGuard and to begin raising the SG slowly. I did a 15% WC and brought the SG up to 1.002/3ish (hard to get exact number on the hydrometer I purchased, I ordered a refractometer this afternoon). I had planned on beginning the move to brackish after 2/3 weeks and the puffers were comfortable with their new home and myself. Larger puffer is very lethargic, staying near the bottom for the most part with the occasional exploring. It doesn't seem to like the lights so I have been keeping them off. It's belly is occasionally lite grey (approx 20% of belly) while floating near the bottom which could just be it camouflaging and not stress? The greyness goes away almost immediately when it starts to swim around again. The smaller puffer seems perfectly fine still, eating as much as I'll give. Swimming around happily, checking on his buddy. pH: 7.5 (can raise with Malawi buffer I have for my cichlids if suggested, LFS said that marine salt will raise this and will test again in the morning EST) Tank has aragonite sand and Texas Holey Rock that was purchased specifically to keep PH higher. It was reading at 8.0 all week on my liquid test but LFS stated it was 7.5 today with a digital tool today. Nitrates: <10ppm Hardness: Reading between 150-300 on Multistrip Tests from coop store Nitrite: 0 Ammonia: Has been 0 all week on Coop test strips and API Liquid Tests. LFS tested water today and said they detected trace amounts <.10. This may be some food I have added over the last 2/3 days trying to get the larger one to eat. Should be resolved by the WC I did today. KH/Buffer: Between 40-80 on the multi test strip Water Temperature: Was 78 until raising to 82 over the past 3 days incrementally. I have read that higher temp is good for treating Ich. I am aware that I may not be able to save it but even advice on something I may have done wrong is helpful. I have tried to be as diligent in research and care as possible and it sucks to see something wrong, especially if it's something I did. I have been looking forward to getting these fish for months now :/ Thanks everyone, Ben
  18. Started with a few fish around March this year. First tank Mickey Mouse platys and a couple mollies. Been learning so much from aquarium coop on youtube and forum on website. Can’t believe all the great plants I’ve purchased past few months that are doing great (just had fake until I kept reading about benefits of live plants). Just so much to learn. Well regarding Cory thank you so very much on your advice to help my betta “Baby Blue”. Just a few days after I got her I noticed she had Popeye. Followed your advice and she is doing great! Have added live plants and a betta log to her 10 gal home. Not sure if she is blind in one eye but after using salt as you suggested she seems so happy and healthy now. While tending to her I lost one of my mollies in the other tank. Looking at the rest I noticed one platy had ick. Thank you Cory first for recommending one keeps ick on hand which I had and then I watched and followed your recommendation on treating ick. Day 4 of water changes and ick-x meds and no sign of ick now. Hopefully stopped the cycle. Both of you are so AWESOME ! Thank You Both so much for being there for us newbies. ~ Nini
  19. Heat treatment has worked wonders in the past against ich, but can pandas take 30°c? Anyone got experience with this? I know they prefer cooler water than most corys.
  20. Hi! I will upload a picture when I can, but my fantail goldfish is a wild man and difficult to photograph. I noticed around May 20 that my fantail has 7-10 focal raised white spots on the distal tip of his tail fin. He otherwise seems 100% normal, energetic and still has a voracious appetite. I have another fantail who seems completely unaffected by these spots. I figured this was ich and started treatment as soon as it arrived in the mail (last night was treatment #9). I also increased their tank temp to 80 degrees and have been dosing salt after each water change to cover for secondary infections. I also have a sponge filter, so there is some aeration in the tank. I'm following the instructions on the Ich-X bottle (30% water change, 10mL for my 20gal tank, repeat every 24 hours). I know the medication isn't effective until the buggers pop off his scales, but I'm wondering if this is something else since I feel like we are long past the life cycle of ich and the lesions on his tail have not changed. My questions to you: 1. How long do I treat for ich before looking into something else? 2. What other differentials are there for this problem? Tank parameters: pH - 7.6-7.8 (has been on the higher side with my daily water changes, usually sits around 7.4-7.6) Nitrates 20 Hardness 6GH Nitrite 0 Ammonia 0 KH/Buffer 5 Water Temperature 80F (usually keep it at 74) tank mates: some plants, mystery snails and ramshorn snails
  21. Hello, I’ve noticed my Platies rubbing a lot on some of the plants in my Aquarium but there are no visible signs of Ich on them. Ammonia, Nitrites & Nitrates are all at 0. Temp 77 degrees and PH 7.0
  22. I've seen fish with ich in nearly every pet/aquarium store I've been to, even a highly recommended one in the Portland area. Should I avoid buying livestock from those places or is that a normal part of the hobby? Shouldn't those fish be pulled from the sales floor and treated? Is that generally too expensive for most stores? I usually don't see signs on infected tanks that would indicate they aren't for sale or that they are being treated. The Co-op doesn't have some of the fish I want or I would just buy from them every time.
  23. I have a planted 40 gallon breeder community tank which is going on 4 months old and currently includes: 12 Neon Tetra 6 Bronze Corys 5 Amano Shrimp *6 Dwarf Chain Loaches (just added two days ago after quarantine) Crypts - green and lucens Vallisneria Amazon Sword Anubias Java Fern Temp 76; pH has dropped a little below 7, it's around 6.8 and is probably due to the driftwood and I need to add a bit more crushed coral; Ammonia 0; Nitrites 0; Nitrates around 40ppm (can add GH/KH numbers if it will be helpful). I may be paranoid, but one of my Dwarf Chain Loaches has been kicking up the sand, and I noticed one of the corys rubbing on the sword leaves. I don't SEE any white ich spots or anything else at the moment, and no one else in the tank seems to be bothered. I've never had dwarf chain loaches before and have heard that they are prone to ich because they are scaleless, so maybe I'm just over-reacting and they're ok, just settling in as they've only been in the big tank for a few days... I have the med trio which I've used for quarantining (I also have three other tanks: 20 gal guppy tank, 10 gallon betta tank, 10 gallon pea puffer tank) However, if it does wind up being ich or something similar and I do need to treat the tank, will adding salt completely nuke my plants? I understand it dehydrates them, and if I really need to I could probably just pull them all and replant after treatment. Aside from using salt... is there anything for ich that works as well as Ich-X that won't stain the tank? Comments/suggestions/insights are greatly appreciated ❤️
  24. 1. Can anyone identify what this white spot is? I’ve had this fish nearly 3 weeks purchased from a private breeder. I isolated it in a separate tank from my other fish, treated with salt first which made it much more pronounced. I added the salt upon seeing this fish swimming upside down and acting odd (which has since stopped). I have some ick X and was going to add that too, but I don’t know if you can have both ick X and salt together. 2. can ick X be used simultaneously with salt? 3. Is this a female fish or a male? I’m thinking it’s a female. I really want to save this fish!! thanks!!
  25. Two weeks ago I added 6 ember tetras to my tank, they are hard to find in my area so 3 came from one store, 3 from another a few days later. I stupidly skipped quarantine and added them to my 10 gal established shrimp tank (I know it was stupid to skip quarantine... I'm paying for it now.) A few days later I noticed a tiny white spot on one of the fish, and pulled all 6 out for quarantine. I didn't have ich-x on hand (mistake #2) so I used a "highly recommended" medication from a local aquarium store. Fish were almost better by day 3 of treatment, and then day 5 ich re-exploded in the quarantine tank. (Was doing daily 30-50% water changes, quarantine tank is bare bottom, vac bottom with water changes) temp in quarantine was 78 degrees, no ammonia/nitrites or nitrates. Water parameters in shrimp tank are on point and shrimp are still thriving... definitely came from the second store as their entire fish section is currently shut down (I called but they wouldn't tell me what the fish are sick with) I used the other brand of ich medication for a few more days before my ich-x arrived (6 days other brand in total). Changed 2 days ago to ich-x and increased temp to 82 and this morning one of my tetras had very large spots compared to the small ich size. (Visible on photo on head). 3 of the tetras have no visible ich, and have never had spots that I have noticed. The other 3 are heavily spotted. It's weird to me that 3 are sick while 3 are not if it is ich, and these larger spots also make me wonder. But they have lasted for a total of 8 days thus far so whatever it is isn't a fast killer. Should I keep treating with ich-x? or should I add in maracyn and paracleanse and then not be able to perform water changes daily? Thank you anyone for help. Sorry this is so long of a post I tried to include all relevant info. Also its very hard to get a decent photo of them...
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