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About Me

  1. I have some Cryptocoryne lutea, they were green, but their leaves borders are turning brown. Could it be a deficiency? I am using root tabs, but no liquid fertilizer.
  2. Hello, I have been breeding angelfish for awhile now. But I have kind of an advanced question. I have two pairs in a 29 gal tank with a foam divider In the middle. And the pair on the left side with the sponge filter have a awful fertilization rate probably under 10% make it to wrigglers. I pull the eggs and put them in a two gal jar with meth blue. The side on the right with the blue pair has had a very high rate of success with fertilization, and that side has no sponge filter. So the question is could the water movement off the sponge filter be effecting the fertilization rate of the koi pair on the left side
  3. Good afternoon, New to the group and have questions about new plants. I have a 2 year old established 40 gal long tank with approx 40 mollies, platties & tetras. I have Fluval Stratum partially in tank for my planted 4 Ludwigia Repens & 3 Water Sprite which is just wedged between lava rocks. The rest of the substrate is sand. Also have the Fluval 3.0 LED light & using Bentley's Settings from YouTube. The plants were growing just OK and nothing to brag about. I was adding Seachem Iron, Pottasium & Flourish every 3rd day. And just recently add CO2 injection. I re-arranged my tank to add more plants. I now have 4 Ludwigia Repens, 3 Water Sprite, 6 Brazilian Pennywoth & 12 Hornworts. I also have now your Co-op all-in-one fertilizer which I plan to use. My question is what do you think the light settings for these plants should be & how much dosing for the all-in-one should be used weekly. Sorry but reading some of your previous discussions on other threads is just confusing to me. Any feed back would be helpful Thanks
  4. I have a 50 gallon freshwater aquarium that has been established for 15 years and recently decided to move from the plastic plants to live plants. I bought several Java and Anubias from the Aquarium Coop along with a bottle of the Easy Green. The plants have been in the aquarium for 6-8 weeks and the plants appear to be doing pretty well. The fish seem to really enjoy swimming through the live plants especially the Java Ferns. The Java Fern Windelov has started to show signs of hair algae on the ends of the plants. The fish have been nibbling at it and I cut back the length of the lights from 14 hours to around 10 hours and that seems to be keeping it at bay. It has not shown up on the other plants either. I checked for nitrates and they were running between 25 and 50 with 0 Nitrites. I use a Fluval filter with biological treatment and filtration and have not lost a fish in over a year. What should the nitrates be running when I am also adding 5 pumps of Easy Green per week for my 50 gallon aquarium? Should I add less Easy Green to reduce the nitrates? Appreciate any advice for this newby.
  5. Sorry for the second post in a day... this all thing is new to me. So this weekend It went to a very nice fish store here in NYC and they helped me set up my first tank (no fish yet) a lot of things and information went on at the store ( I was very impressed by the knowledge form the little I know) but I forgot to ask what plants they gave me 🙂 I emailed the store but I guess that I will get quicker response here ... so trying out my luck . here are some pictures 🙂 Thanks!!
  6. Since updating my light on my 29gal planted aquarium to the Fluval planted 3.0, I have begun to see hair algae in the tank. Looking at my aquarium co op easy green today I noticed it’s for low to medium light tanks. Should I increase my dosage frequency to try to level out the fertilizer with the light? This tank also has CO2. The algae is not out of control but I want to get a handle on this ASAP. This light is amazing and plants look great since switching this on.
  7. I've tried different floating plants in my tanks: -Duckweed (large and regular (twice)) turns white and dies -Frogbit--melts and disappears -Salvinia--melts and disappears -Water Sprite--down to about 1/3 of what I added 6 weeks ago--turning brown and falling apart Hornwort--this one might have worked, but it dropped needles and clogged up my siphon so much that it drove me NUTS and I removed it. I've tried free-floating and having feeding rings around the HOB filter output and having rings around the floating plants--none of those have fixed the issues. I have very hard water (LFS made a guess that this might be the issue) and a cover on the tank with just the LEDs that came with the kit, not plant lights. I'm wondering if they don't get enough airflow and/or if the light is insufficient. Nitrates are always between 20 and 40. My anubias grow great--slowly, but very nice looking. Java fern is decent. I love the look of floating plants and I could use the help with nitrates. I really want to be able to grow something--any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I'd really appreciate any suggestions!
  8. I've been trying to figure out how often to dose my aquarium! I dose with easy green weekly, and I've started dosing Leaf zone for potassium and I use wonder shells to get my calcium magnesium. Do I just try to keep the NO3 around 40ppm? So for example I tested my parameters a couple days ago and my NO3's were getting high 60 to 80ppm So I did a 25% Water Change. Now they sit at 0ppm. So should I go ahead and dose my tank or wait till the scheduled day? Like I used to change water once a week and than dose but after my last post Cory made me realize that if the parameters were ok not to do any water changes so now my schedules messed up lol. Should I of not done the Water change not dose anything until the plants naturally brought down the Nitrates?
  9. I’m awaiting an order from the co-op that contains a few types of crypts. Wendtii, wendtii green, and lucens. I have sand substrate and some of it is fresh and therefore probably contains little to no nutrients for plants. I’ve had success with root feeders in the sand but I’m wondering, is it wise to “seed” the substrate ahead of time by adding co-op root tabs now instead of when the plants arrive? In theory, it would have released some nutrients into the areas I’m planting before the plants arrive. I know the root tabs don’t work instantly and are somewhat of a slow release and new plants will require some food ASAP. Is it worth it to bury them a few days in advance? My Cory cats smell them and will stand up vertically above them trying to dig them out lmfao. Fun to watch. also to those with experience with crypts, do you subscribe to the method of cutting the leaves before planting in your aquarium? It seems to avoid the crypt melt and produces faster new growth. Thanks ahead of time for the input!
  10. Just to start out hi I'm new here. I just got into live plants and at the moment I five large Anubias and two Nana. I also started with two bunches of jungle val... they have propagated into about a dozen small plants. My question is my anubias was do great the first month but now I'm seeing yellowing and some spots on a few leaves. Is i likely they ate all the nutrients in the water column and need more? I'll spare my tank setup but its understocked, way more bio filtration than I really need, and has never tested high on anything other than PH. But that's just what we get here 8.2-8.5. Any help thanks!
  11. I have a very healthy watersprite plant in my 55g that has spawned around 15 new plants. I took 2 of the 6-8" plants and moved them to a newish 10 gallon tank. It's been up for a month or so with 2 guppies in it. After a week the plants have just melted away. I've been adding 1oz of Flourish to the tank since I put them in there (I dose the main tank daily). I also added some Fritz 7 a few days ago to boost the bac. and increased the guppy count to 5. Same water source and the 10g has a bit of ammonia 0.25-0.5 I added the plants to help the water conditions. Any ideas on what could be the problem?
  12. I am wondering if there is a fertilizer that can replenish all nutrients for fish, plants and shrimp that I could use so that I can just top off water as long as the nitrate cycle is good? Not trying to be lazy I just want to try and get a tank to be balanced with little water changes as possible. I currently have enough plants that I barely have to change water because of ammonia or nitrate but I keep changing because of a worry of nutrient deficiency. I didn't know if the aqurium co-op ferts could do this? Thanks in advance.
  13. Hey I have a 30 gallon tank (16" depth) with a "current usa satellite freshwater led plus pro" light. Substrate is inert caribsea naturals sand. I put in root tabs and planted stuff about 3 months ago: 10-15 small stalks of Alternanthera Rosanervig 5 anubias petite 2 Nymphaea rubra 1 red tiger lotus I just tossed out a mass of java moss that I was trying to grow on the wood that was getting overrun with hair algae. I am also starting to notice other types of algae beginning to appear slowly. I have been using light 8 hours a day at full blast, and dosing 2x (5ml) daily dose of seachem excel + 2.5ml of aquarium coop easy green, then doing a weekly 50% water change. Tank is fairly stocked with 15x neons, 8x rasbora, 3 swordtails, 2x corydoras, 2x yoyo loaches. I have a fluval 207 and clean it once a month. Plants themselves are happy other than the moss, putting on new growth etc. I know I need to adjust something. I think I have been too liberal with my feedings so that is an easy fix. Questions - What should I do w/respect the light? Should I dial down the intensity / shorten the photo period? I' - Should I stop the daily easy green dose and just stick with the excel? - What else would you suggest?
  14. on my 75 gal planted tank my bio load is small 4 angels and 6 baby rams a cpl corys and a cpl more algae eaters dont know ther name and two timy bristle nose plecos. anyway i was always at 0 ppm nitrates so i didnt think i had to do a water change to much i even seen Corys video when he showed the last tour of his shop because he was moving locations and he said the big bins in the middle that he never changed the water. well i ended up with that cyn dont know the real spelling but blue green algae but i watched another of his videos and learned to fix it with erthromyacin . to make a long story short id like to know how i got it. was it fish waist built up? also another question about simple green and iron it has .13 iron and your not supposed to go over 5 does that mean if i dose twice a week id be overloaded with iron? or does the plants eat it up? thankyou everybody.
  15. My question is about accumulating Nitrates vs. fertilizers like Easy Green. So, plants take in Nitrates, right? And we are told that short of be able to achieve a complete "Full Cycle", the only way to keep the Nitrates at bay in our aquariums is to do water changes. BTW, I'm using a Fluval 407 cannister filter packed with about 5-1/2 lbs of Biohome at the top and course, fine, and polishing sponge or physical media at the bottom. My community stocked 46 gallon bow front aquarium is cycled as far as ammonia and nitites are concerned. They are both at zero and holding steady. Ph is always around 7 to 7.2, water temperature is maintained at 77.5 by a 300w Fluval e series Heater, and the Nitrates are always around 40 to 80 ppm every time I test the water. I do gravel vacuum of 1/2 the gravel with about 50% water changes maybe every 2 to 3 weeks. I add 5 pumps of Easy Green weekly and I'm using a Fluval Plant 3.0 scheduled on the preset Planted Tank setting, but I still see water sprite in my tank browning lower down on the stems of the plant, but growing like crazy which I trim as it gets out of control. I use Root Tabs for the Crypts and Amazon Swords. The swords are doing so so, but the crypts are doing great and look very healthy, but are growing slowly. So, can someone unlock the mystery of why nitrates climb, but it looks like I need more fertilizer to possibly fix the water sprite browning I'm seeing or is it lighting that is needed, and too much Nitrates or visa versa. Am I misunderstanding how things are supposed to be working? Help! Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Larry in Pa
  16. I got this wisteria 2-3 months ago and I have enjoyed it as a nice tall background plant. I've been adding Co-Op root tabs every 4 weeks and it's been growing nicely. But 2 weeks ago started looking like it was having some melting then shed most of the leaves except the last 6 inches at the top. The leaves continue to deteriorate with melting from the center. All other plants are doing really well. Will it recover?
  17. Hello! I’m new to aquascape world. Had been reading and watching lots of forums and videos before started. That’s where I know about aquarium coop. Anyway, I purchased over $50 worth of plants, chose those that categorized as easy and for newbie plants like me, swords, javafern, etc as you can see from my picture. I also happen to have those small plants, not sure what’s the name but this plant is known as carpet plant(?). I bought the seeds from amazon (it turned out originally came from china). Anyway, I have 55 gallon tank, currently no fish, only get morning sun rays about 35 min a day that’s why I chose plants that do not require lots of sun. I bought $70 worth of substrate from petco (see picture). everything looks good on the first 2 weeks but the third week I start noticing yellow leaves on my plants, most of valissneria looks like they’re dying too, I don’t see bright green leaves coming out. Only the sword plants seems to look the same but almost all plants including the carpet plant start to show algae on their leaves. I purchased easy green all in one fertilizer a couple of days ago but the delivery is delayed so I have not applied it yet. Iwas thinking this solution may help(?). One thing that may contribute to this failure is that the water temp is around 65F. I have tank’s heater to warm up the water but I was waiting for the carpet plants to root deeper into the substrate before I can move my (bottom feeder, algae eater) fish & the heater into this big tank. so I right now I use the heater to warm up my fish in a smaller tank. If I put my fish to the 55 gallon tank right now he is going to ransack my carpet plant since they are still babies & their roots are still on the surface of substrate. What do I need to do to salvage all my dying plants ? Very desperately need help!!!
  18. My water sprite grows fine and then the new growth leaves brown (see image below, with sword and moss ball in background). Sluffing of the leaves then follows. Is this a sign of iron deficiency? A root tab was placed close to the sprite about 3 weeks ago. Does this continued browing call for another root tab?
  19. So I been ordering plants from co op for awhile have had some success and some not. Sure I don’t have best lights but decent and I try to look at the specs of which plants I get. At any rate just ordered some easey green along with another plant my question is how soon do you start seeing results what kind of growth can I expect etc hoping I done a good thing getting this
  20. Greetings! Just found out about this forum from the podcast. I'm thrilled to be in the community and plan to share an intro later, but I'm trying to get an answer to a question so I can finish up a plant order! Between the Easy Root Tabs and Easy Green, which would be best for a five gallon tank? I'm planning on planning some vals and possibly amazon sword. Some simple stuff that can provide some cover for the fish and be nice to look at. Can I get away with just root tabs? If Easy Green is geared to be 1 pump for 10 gals, can you get half a pump? The tank has been running for about a year. I've had some mixed luck with plants thus far. No additional ferts beyond the bio-load from 6 white clouds, a nerite, and one happy amano shrimp. I had some taiwan moss that went crazy, I trimmed back and then it died. Live and learn! Thanks all!
  21. Hi guys. I'm a big fan of the co-op from Brazil and would like some help. I'm having problems with my plants growth, and i don't have easy options for fertilization or light. My plants seem stagnant, they don't die, but they aren't thriving. I don't have access to a fluval 3.0 or something like that, they are not sold here. The plant specific lights are really expensive and i can't afford them. So, this is my ~20g planted tank, picture was taken October 28: At the time of these pictures the tank was inhabitated, but now I added 5 albino corydoras (pics from today): I have tried to add more hardness to my water with calcium and magnesium carbonate but that didn't help with plant growth (that's the white dust all over everything). I use a popular substrate from a brazilian company by recommendation of other fish-keepers that have had success with it, which has these specifications: Formula: TiO................................ 0,05% K.....................................0,24% Ca................................. 1,05% Mg............................... ..0,84% Fe................................. .0,27% Al................................. ..1,16% Si.................................. .6,35% N.................................. ..0,40% P................................... .0,07% S.................................. ..0,34% Na............................ ..0,0009% PPM: Mn....................................166, 9Zn....................................292,5 Cu......................................14,2 B........................................63,8 electric conductivity 1.600 (umnhos)CTC...................15,5(me/100g) humidity.............................10% My light is a 50w led reflector like this: These are my tests results from last week (i use SERA tests): PH= 7.5 GH= 3 drops KG= 2 drops nitrate= 10ppm Temp: ~80º F I don't have CO2. I have these fertilizers at hand, but they don't seem to do anything (even dosing 2 times the recommended amount.): Each dose adds the following: NPK: 6.0 PPM NO3 1.0 PPM PO4 3.8 PPM K 0.6 PPM Mg Micro: 0.07 PPM FE 0.01 PPM B 0.06 PPM MG 0.05 PPM MN 0.01 PPM ZN 0.01 PPM CU Potassium: 2.5 PPM K Iron: 0.4 PPM FE Any idea of what i'm doing wrong? Thanks in advance. Sorry about all the information.
  22. Hey guys, I could use some help with fertilizing my plants to the proper dosage. I have 6 different species of Anubias plants, 6 lucky bamboo plants (testing them out). In a 90 gallon tank. All but the bamboo was from co-op. Sand as substrate. Using root tabs as well. As far as easy green I have only put in 4 dosages (squirt) after each water change. Which is weekly. According to the easy green directions I am under dosing (purposely). My question is if this was your tank would you go higher or lower in dosages? Also, I have iron and carbon but I rarely use them. Due to the directions from the website. I am not using co2 (yet). Lights I am using are 2 nicrew planted lights. 7 hours of light. I don’t know if this is needed to know or not, but I have 13 fish and 1 snail. I will be adding shrimp and another snail very soon.
  23. My plants aren't looking good anymore and I don't know why? They have different shades of green, some yellow, and brown colors to them. I'm using easy green fertilizer and root tabs from Aquarium Co-Op. How do I know if I'm using to much or not enough fertilizer? I have water sprite, Amazon sword, and bacopa caroliniana in a 29 gallon tank. Or is this a lighting problem?
  24. My 50 gal tank has been set-up for about 3 months. I have been using easy green for about two months. My plants appear to be dying a slow death (leaves turning yellow with holes and even my moss is dying). My nitrates have always been zero. I dose easy green according to the instructions and have even added a little extra. My question: Can I increase the dosage until I hit 20-30 ppm nitrate? I need to try something before all the plants die. I had to remove the remains of a java fern that turned black and disintegrated. I have zero algae. Thanks...
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