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About Me

  1. I have a 29 gallon non fully cycled tank with the plants below. I got Seachem flourish for free so I'm dosing it to the tank size once a week. I now have some red plants and wanted to make sure using prime and flourish with easy Iron would be safe. I also use root tabs. I have 3 on each side of the tank spaced out, so 6 total in it. I'm also getting a GH and KH API test kit in the mail tomorrow as the tetra strips don't seem right. I currently have 6 cardinals in the tank for a fish in cycle and double dosing with prime every 48 hours and no water changes. This is my 11th day cycling the tank and 4th with fish in. My substrate is half gravel and half Fluval Stratum. Water Ammonia - 2 Nitrites - 2 Nitrates - 5-10 - same as tap pH - 6.6 Temp - 76 GH - 75 Kh - 0 Plants Lobelia Cardinalis x3 Narrow leaf Chain Sword x2 Spiralis x2 Java moss x2 Anacharis x2 Normal Amazon Sword Flame Amazon Sword Red Melon Sword Bronze Wendtii Green Wendtii Red Wendtii Stocking 1 Beta 12 Cardinals - 6 in already 6 Harlequin Rasboras 8 Pygmy Cories 6 Khuli Loaches 1 Borneo loach Snails for days
  2. Photo 1: Sword is weak colored. Some of the leaves are translucent and break off. They are very crisp/crunchy when broken. Also dark green algae on older leaves. What kind of algae is this? Does this look like nitrogen deficiency? Photos 2 and 3. What are the tall reddish plants. They seem to struggle and drop lower leaves. Also some of the dark green algae in leaves. Photo 4. Reddish/maroon algae in wood. Algae on the wood doesn’t bother me. Just curious what it is and if it gives a clue about water quality. I dose Flourish comprehensive 1x week at recommended rate. I have dosed phosphate hoping that would help get rid of algae on plants. Also have dosed iron a few times which seems to disappear very quickly when tested. Irregularly dose excel. I have reduced lighting several weeks ago by putting a piece of screen under the light. This seems to help cut down on algae. Several weeks ago I did a complete rescape. Replacing all black gravel with pool filter sand and placing 1 nilocg fert tab under the swords and stem plants. I have been reluctant to dose more Flourish Comprehensive as it only has a little nitrogen and I worry about minerals building up since I don’t do water changes. I have been looking at the Nilocg potassium nitrate salts and dosing light. This is a 30g display with 20g sump containing porret foam and fluorite black gavel. I am pretty committed to the no water change concept but it would seem the sump may be working too well and the frogbit I added for asthetics only suck up more nutrients. I am open to setting an auto dose system for ferts/excel. Co2 is off the table at the moment. I appreciate everyone’s input.
  3. Like to hear your opinion and experience in mixing two or mote fertilizers from different manufacturers. I have Seachem flourish and Tropica specialised and I was thinking of mixing them up with following schedule. Day 1 Tropica Day 2 Flourish Day 3 Tropica with iron Day 4 Tropica Day 5 water change Medium light system with pressurized co2 . Mostly planted with some stone work. Planted 2 weeks back.
  4. I have had this Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus for about 2 months now. The leaves have all been coming in yellow and very thin and in some cases very warped. I have root tabs from Seachem in the substrate and I have been using easy green once a week. They grow like weeds but don't respond well to trimming and have this color/size issue with the leaves. Is there anything I can try to help my plants?
  5. So fertilized plant substrate last about a year. Do you remove the old pellets and put in new? How do you deal with the original fertilized clay? I notice most responders seem to not have the fertilized plant substrate. Am I better off with or without it? I like to vacuum almost daily. My my ammonia nitrite cycle has been pretty much zero, but my nitrates in the 40 gallon tank could be less, recently I did 50% water change. It seems I can hold nitrites near zero by daily gravel vacuuming. Basically I let my 40 gallon take go a bit and got into nitrate concerns. Since then I have changed about 80-gallons. Do you feel that the ammonia/nitrites produced by a fertilized plant substrate will result in more otherwise unneeded water changes?
  6. I recently replanted my sword and vals. I made sure their roots were directly on top of root tabs, just because the substrate is shallow. Now leaves are turning brown on the edges and tips, then the the brown creeps to the middle or base of the leaf before it dies. Other leaves have pinholes. Some turn clear (skeletal) on the edges. Some have dark "freckles." That sounds like a lot of nutrient deficiencies, but given all the root tabs, that's nearly impossible. Chemical burning of the roots is all I can think of. What would your guess be?
  7. I just need help brainstorming ideas. Knowing that I'll move within a few months, I have all my rooted aquarium plants planted in gravel in tupperware. I'll be able to simply lift out the "pots," set them in buckets of water to travel, then set them back into the tank after moving. Soon after, I can plant them in the usual way. For now, I simply need to keep them alive in their pots. Thriving is for later. But even keeping them alive is getting... sketchy. I can't manage to stuff root tabs deep into the small pots. They're jam-packed with roots, and so covered with leaves that I can barely get my hand through the leaves to the substrate. The plants I'm most concerned about are vallisneria, and an Amazon sword. I certainly realize planting them in the normal way would keep them healthier, but it would take a lot of work and time, both now and right before the move. I'm a single mom of a kid with special needs. "Just making the time" is not a thing around here. Thoughts?
  8. So where i live i have Incredibly hard water since we get it from the lake in my city. the fish do Great in it and i'm very lucky to live in the same sewer district as my fave lfs so our water is Identical. plants are doing well too, but i'd love to give them a boost. However i really don't know how to approach fertilizing with hard water... i feel like it would mess with the water chemistry and depending on whats already in the water, it may even end up overdosing something. of course i may be over thinking this cause i haven't really seen anything either way, i just am nervous since most people talk about
  9. I have a 300L aquarium, pool filter sand substrate with a 1/2 inch layer of dirt underneath. 66 watt LED light on 7 hours a day Some plants like various crypts and the tiger lotus are thriving while the sword species and larger plants in the background are struggling, some leaves have holes in too. I have also added some JBL fertilizer balls underneath the sword plants to see if fertilizing was the issue but still no progress. I used to have good success with these plants but after a recent house move I cannot get them to grow nicely. Water hardness is KH 2 - 3 and GH 4 - 5, at my old house it used to be KH 4 - 5 and GH 7 - 8. I have tried dosing flourish, and flourish excel and see no better progress with this plants, I just start to have algae issues when dosing ferts. I wouldn't have thought fertilizers would be the issue as I have dirt substrate and added JBL balls also. Does anybody have any ideas on what I might be missing here to get these swords growing as well as the crypts and tiger lotus are?
  10. Do I need to use both for dwarf chain swords? Im confused if they just do the same thing, or if one can't be without the other
  11. I'm not an experienced fish enthusiastic, I'm struggling with plants, light and algae. I planted the aquarium 6 month ago, the plants were doing great, but starting having issues with hair algae. I lower the light intensity and the plants now almost died. The light are ON 5 hors a day. I had crytocoryne wendtii green, they were doing great, now they are just few small leaves. Just bought new plants, easy iron, easy carbon and easy green. I also have root tabs. I change water every week. Any suggestion on what to do? Thank you
  12. I’m starting to get little holes in my Hygrophila. Low tech tank and I’m dosing Easy Green along with seachem root tabs. I was reading that is usually a K problem. I’m no expert, but I don’t see that on easy green? Or I’m misinformed on the label. If it doesn’t provide it, what can I get that has it?
  13. My bottle of Easy Green is on the way and I had a question. I apologize if I sound less then intelligent on the subject, but I am🙂. My question is about nitrates. My nitrates are less then 5ppm and it says that I should be running at about 20ppm while dosing Easy Green. I am assuming that dosing will increase my nitrates, but by how much? The tank is a 40 gallon breeder.
  14. My Amazon sword has melting leaves and holes. It’s been in the tank about a year. I use the all in one fertilizer. My Java fern is also looking the same. What can I do?
  15. I have some African Dwarf frogs and have been on a support facebook group. There are a few things I need to run by the greater hive mind that is the internet. 1. Are plant fertilizers safe for ADFs? I would assume it is the same as shrimp and snails since they are sensitive to copper. But people in this group seem to be blindly following a single herpetologist member/admin and I haven't seen any evidence provided. 2. Unrelated, but I figured if you know about fertilizer you might also know about the other disputed, yet unresearched, airstones causing gas bubble disease. If you have any info I would love to hear it.
  16. @Cory I can’t thank you enough for this amazing product. It’s really made my plant hobby fun for me. Rock on plant keepers!🪴🌱
  17. Today, I had to titrate my tap water with RO water to get to recommended harnesses... and then I went down the rabbit hole. Now I'm confused. I'm looking at my easy green and am confused how mathematically I convert the bottle contents into an ending ppm when added to a barren aquarium. Assume I am adding 1ml into 10 gallons of water for simple math. Using Nitrogen as example, easy green has 2.66% water soluble nitrogen. So for the fertilizer itself, converting from percent to ppm we would have 2.66*1000000/100=26600ppm Then putting 1ml of this into 10 gallons (37854ml). 26600*1/37854=0.7ppm (edit for 10 gallon) So even if this all went to nitrates it would only raise it by 0.7 ppm. I feel like when starting my tank (8 gallons-->0.88ppm) two pumps of easy green got me from like 5ppm to 20ppm when I was testing. What am I conceptually missing? Thank you, Brad
  18. After 2 years of research and planning I'm proud to say I've finally set up my first planted aquarium! 😁 HUGE shoutout to @Cory for all the instructional Youtube videos, blog posts and advice on aquariums. And thank you to you all for the insight and motivation to start my own underwater ecosystem!! All the plants pictured came from the Co-Op and have a few more on the way from LRB Aquatics. Below are my tank specs: Aquarium Size: 75g Lighting: Fluval 3.0 Substrate: 160lbs of Eco-Complete Plants: Pogostemon stellatus octopus, Anubias, Val, Crypt Wendtii, red dwarf lily bulb, (pearl weed and rotala rotundifolia coming soon) Filtration: Sponge filter, Tidal 75 (on low flow) Fertilizer: Aquarium Co-Op Easy Green and Root Tabs I've been seeing conflicting responses on when to best start fertilizing a new tank. Plants were just planted today and not sure if best to wait a few days to acclimate or begin fertilizing and planting root tabs immediately. I am also looking for lighting settings based on my Fluval 3.0 and depth of aquarium. Any advice is appreciated and glad to officially be part of this amazing community 😄
  19. I recently started using easy green in a newer tank(month old with already established ehiem classic canister filter), nitrates jumped up too high and I didn't notice in time. This is my first planted tank. Don't get me wrong, in no way am I saying it's easy green's fault. Anyways end result turned into ich(most likey) or possibly stress ich. I did add several fish around the initial e/g dose. So here's what I'm getting at. I treated the tank for several days using ich x and was using prime as my standard conditioner. After doing some more research though I decided that prime was most likely somewhat neutralizing the meds so I switched over to Hikari ultimate instead and dosed the tank with the meds and new conditioner for 3 additional days. Looks like the ich is gone now. The main question I have is about when to start using easy green again after the ich treatments. I'm assuming from what I've read that ferts and meds don't mix, atleast for not increasing nitrates at times of stress/ disease. I choose to not dose ferts while dosing ich meds, was this the right decision? I've learned that everyone has different opinions on everything in the aquarium hobby and that you need to do your research. I've also decided that you need to narrow down the people you are taking your advice from to keep things consistent and Cory from aquarium coop is my top choice at this point. Hey so that was a compliment lol Thanks Ryan
  20. I just started with planted aquariums. One tank, that I have had fish in for years but no plants, is doing great everything is alive, taking off and almost taking over. But the other is just dying. The tank that is struggling is small 3 gallons and new, I started it in March after a class beta fish came home in a sad glass fish bowl. I first planted it with some Java Fern in September and the plant just got a bunch of brown holes. At that time I wasn’t adding nutrients. In January, I bought more Java Fern and Christmas tree moss bridge and started adding nutrients but still everything is dying. Began testing water nutrients were low but I have been dosing with EasyGreen. Now nutrients are up but my plants are still dying. HELP !
  21. Can someone help me out with this plant? Based on Cory's article on plant nutrition it looks like a phosphate deficiency but I have a ton of guppies in this tank so I struggle to think there's a phosphate deficiency but I could be wrong. I dose flourish, potassium, nitrogen and I just started using liquid carbon and iron. The plant is attached to driftwood so root tabs cannot be used. Thanks Plant Nutrition - Aquarium Co-Op
  22. I'm a newbie after years of not having an aquarium. When I had aquariums in the 1970's we knew nothing of tank cycling and the only plants fish stores sold were floating plants. I have a couple of small tanks with bettas. I'm now attempting to start a 10 gallon tank using plants to cycle. It's been running for two weeks. I have water sprite ,moss balls, frogbit and pothos ivy submerged. I realize the pothos submerged is supposed to be a no no but I always kept them that way for years. I've been using Seachems flourish to fertilize. Ive ordered easy green. Do I need to change the water before using the easy green?
  23. Would there be any advantage to daily dosing of Easy Green? Was thinking of putting a dropper top on the bottle and feeding plants same time I feed fish. I guess the amount would be the weekly dosage divided by 7? I have a small graduated cylinder to initially measure the number of drops that would be. TIA!
  24. Hey all! I need your collective big brains to help me understand why my plants are unhappy! My 10-gallon houses a number of species that had been stable since I set up the tank about 3 months ago. My root feeders (cryptos and amazon sword) have been doing well with their root tabs, however my non-root feeders (aponogeton, bacopa caroliniana, windelov java fern) are all struggling (detailed below). My water parameters have held stable at: pH: 6.8-7.0 dGH: ~6.8 dKH: ~1.1 NO2: 0 NO3: 0-10 Each week, I do a 20% PWC and dose with 1ml Easy Green, some Seachem GH/KH buffers (to keep up the dGH and dKH as we have really soft water), and some liquid CO2. The tank gets a low to low-medium amount of light for roughly 8 hours daily. Some time ago, some plants had (and still have) some mild level of brown developing on the leaves (which I believe are diatoms/brown algae). Apart from this, the plants were largely fine. The animal life appears happy and healthy. When I just went to do my routine PWC and noticed: The aponogeton's growth rate has slowed dramatically and the edges of some leaves are rotting (pic below). Previously, I had to keep clipping healthy leaves to keep it from taking over the whole tank. Now, I still see some new shoots coming out, but far less and slower than before. I've also noticed it has lost that vibrant green it used to be. My windelov fern originally came with a few black spots on the leaves, however those spots recently accelerated and some of the leaves I have clipped are predominantly black. After some research, I was under the impression that it was possibly a nitrogen shortage, so I dosed with a little bit more Easy Green, but it didn't do the trick. Lastly my bacopa has been growing well (they started to grow up and out of the water), however during my PWC today, two strands floated to the top as the base of the stems had rotted away. I clipped away the dead portion and left the healthy part floating to hopefully grow new roots. EDIT: Oh, I forgot to mention, I actually have two clusters of bacopa. One cluster is in a more open area by itself and those stems seem healthy. The other cluster is close to some other plants, including some of the long fronds of the aponogeton. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. I'm not sure if it is a competition for light, but if so, the bacopa would surely lose out to the aponogeton. I'm really at a loss at this point. I know the issue is likely due to some imbalance between the balance of CO2, light, and nutrients, but unfortunately, I haven't dealt with this enough to understand how to investigate further. Any insight would be very much appreciated! Thank you guys as always!
  25. Hello Everyone, I purchased a Banana Plant here from Aquarium Co Op a few months ago, though I can't say exactly when. The plant seemed to be doing fine: I had it sitting on a sand substrate, with root tabs and liquid fertilizer, so it's been sprouting new leaves and roots. Unfortunately in the past few weeks it appears to be getting sickly. One of the "bananas" (if you will) has turned yellow, but the biggest problem is that the leaves are turning brownish-red and are disintegrating. I'm quite exasperated by this. I had attempted a planted aquarium over a year ago and had the same issue: the leaves would slowly turn translucent and disintegrate, despite using liquid all-in-one liquid fertilizer and having appropriate plant lighting. Picture: http://imgur.com/a/xQ4rOAQ I'm not sure what could be causing this issue. I've tried researching it, but can't find anything describing what's happening with my plants. I really want to have a planted aquarium, but I can't keep spending money on plants only to have them die... Please help!
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