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About Me

  1. My bottle of Easy Green is on the way and I had a question. I apologize if I sound less then intelligent on the subject, but I am🙂. My question is about nitrates. My nitrates are less then 5ppm and it says that I should be running at about 20ppm while dosing Easy Green. I am assuming that dosing will increase my nitrates, but by how much? The tank is a 40 gallon breeder.
  2. My Amazon sword has melting leaves and holes. It’s been in the tank about a year. I use the all in one fertilizer. My Java fern is also looking the same. What can I do?
  3. I have some African Dwarf frogs and have been on a support facebook group. There are a few things I need to run by the greater hive mind that is the internet. 1. Are plant fertilizers safe for ADFs? I would assume it is the same as shrimp and snails since they are sensitive to copper. But people in this group seem to be blindly following a single herpetologist member/admin and I haven't seen any evidence provided. 2. Unrelated, but I figured if you know about fertilizer you might also know about the other disputed, yet unresearched, airstones causing gas bubble disease. If you have any info I would love to hear it.
  4. @Cory I can’t thank you enough for this amazing product. It’s really made my plant hobby fun for me. Rock on plant keepers!🪴🌱
  5. Today, I had to titrate my tap water with RO water to get to recommended harnesses... and then I went down the rabbit hole. Now I'm confused. I'm looking at my easy green and am confused how mathematically I convert the bottle contents into an ending ppm when added to a barren aquarium. Assume I am adding 1ml into 10 gallons of water for simple math. Using Nitrogen as example, easy green has 2.66% water soluble nitrogen. So for the fertilizer itself, converting from percent to ppm we would have 2.66*1000000/100=26600ppm Then putting 1ml of this into 10 gallons (37854ml). 26600*1/37854=0.7ppm (edit for 10 gallon) So even if this all went to nitrates it would only raise it by 0.7 ppm. I feel like when starting my tank (8 gallons-->0.88ppm) two pumps of easy green got me from like 5ppm to 20ppm when I was testing. What am I conceptually missing? Thank you, Brad
  6. After 2 years of research and planning I'm proud to say I've finally set up my first planted aquarium! 😁 HUGE shoutout to @Cory for all the instructional Youtube videos, blog posts and advice on aquariums. And thank you to you all for the insight and motivation to start my own underwater ecosystem!! All the plants pictured came from the Co-Op and have a few more on the way from LRB Aquatics. Below are my tank specs: Aquarium Size: 75g Lighting: Fluval 3.0 Substrate: 160lbs of Eco-Complete Plants: Pogostemon stellatus octopus, Anubias, Val, Crypt Wendtii, red dwarf lily bulb, (pearl weed and rotala rotundifolia coming soon) Filtration: Sponge filter, Tidal 75 (on low flow) Fertilizer: Aquarium Co-Op Easy Green and Root Tabs I've been seeing conflicting responses on when to best start fertilizing a new tank. Plants were just planted today and not sure if best to wait a few days to acclimate or begin fertilizing and planting root tabs immediately. I am also looking for lighting settings based on my Fluval 3.0 and depth of aquarium. Any advice is appreciated and glad to officially be part of this amazing community 😄
  7. I recently started using easy green in a newer tank(month old with already established ehiem classic canister filter), nitrates jumped up too high and I didn't notice in time. This is my first planted tank. Don't get me wrong, in no way am I saying it's easy green's fault. Anyways end result turned into ich(most likey) or possibly stress ich. I did add several fish around the initial e/g dose. So here's what I'm getting at. I treated the tank for several days using ich x and was using prime as my standard conditioner. After doing some more research though I decided that prime was most likely somewhat neutralizing the meds so I switched over to Hikari ultimate instead and dosed the tank with the meds and new conditioner for 3 additional days. Looks like the ich is gone now. The main question I have is about when to start using easy green again after the ich treatments. I'm assuming from what I've read that ferts and meds don't mix, atleast for not increasing nitrates at times of stress/ disease. I choose to not dose ferts while dosing ich meds, was this the right decision? I've learned that everyone has different opinions on everything in the aquarium hobby and that you need to do your research. I've also decided that you need to narrow down the people you are taking your advice from to keep things consistent and Cory from aquarium coop is my top choice at this point. Hey so that was a compliment lol Thanks Ryan
  8. I just started with planted aquariums. One tank, that I have had fish in for years but no plants, is doing great everything is alive, taking off and almost taking over. But the other is just dying. The tank that is struggling is small 3 gallons and new, I started it in March after a class beta fish came home in a sad glass fish bowl. I first planted it with some Java Fern in September and the plant just got a bunch of brown holes. At that time I wasn’t adding nutrients. In January, I bought more Java Fern and Christmas tree moss bridge and started adding nutrients but still everything is dying. Began testing water nutrients were low but I have been dosing with EasyGreen. Now nutrients are up but my plants are still dying. HELP !
  9. Can someone help me out with this plant? Based on Cory's article on plant nutrition it looks like a phosphate deficiency but I have a ton of guppies in this tank so I struggle to think there's a phosphate deficiency but I could be wrong. I dose flourish, potassium, nitrogen and I just started using liquid carbon and iron. The plant is attached to driftwood so root tabs cannot be used. Thanks Plant Nutrition - Aquarium Co-Op
  10. I'm a newbie after years of not having an aquarium. When I had aquariums in the 1970's we knew nothing of tank cycling and the only plants fish stores sold were floating plants. I have a couple of small tanks with bettas. I'm now attempting to start a 10 gallon tank using plants to cycle. It's been running for two weeks. I have water sprite ,moss balls, frogbit and pothos ivy submerged. I realize the pothos submerged is supposed to be a no no but I always kept them that way for years. I've been using Seachems flourish to fertilize. Ive ordered easy green. Do I need to change the water before using the easy green?
  11. Would there be any advantage to daily dosing of Easy Green? Was thinking of putting a dropper top on the bottle and feeding plants same time I feed fish. I guess the amount would be the weekly dosage divided by 7? I have a small graduated cylinder to initially measure the number of drops that would be. TIA!
  12. Hey all! I need your collective big brains to help me understand why my plants are unhappy! My 10-gallon houses a number of species that had been stable since I set up the tank about 3 months ago. My root feeders (cryptos and amazon sword) have been doing well with their root tabs, however my non-root feeders (aponogeton, bacopa caroliniana, windelov java fern) are all struggling (detailed below). My water parameters have held stable at: pH: 6.8-7.0 dGH: ~6.8 dKH: ~1.1 NO2: 0 NO3: 0-10 Each week, I do a 20% PWC and dose with 1ml Easy Green, some Seachem GH/KH buffers (to keep up the dGH and dKH as we have really soft water), and some liquid CO2. The tank gets a low to low-medium amount of light for roughly 8 hours daily. Some time ago, some plants had (and still have) some mild level of brown developing on the leaves (which I believe are diatoms/brown algae). Apart from this, the plants were largely fine. The animal life appears happy and healthy. When I just went to do my routine PWC and noticed: The aponogeton's growth rate has slowed dramatically and the edges of some leaves are rotting (pic below). Previously, I had to keep clipping healthy leaves to keep it from taking over the whole tank. Now, I still see some new shoots coming out, but far less and slower than before. I've also noticed it has lost that vibrant green it used to be. My windelov fern originally came with a few black spots on the leaves, however those spots recently accelerated and some of the leaves I have clipped are predominantly black. After some research, I was under the impression that it was possibly a nitrogen shortage, so I dosed with a little bit more Easy Green, but it didn't do the trick. Lastly my bacopa has been growing well (they started to grow up and out of the water), however during my PWC today, two strands floated to the top as the base of the stems had rotted away. I clipped away the dead portion and left the healthy part floating to hopefully grow new roots. EDIT: Oh, I forgot to mention, I actually have two clusters of bacopa. One cluster is in a more open area by itself and those stems seem healthy. The other cluster is close to some other plants, including some of the long fronds of the aponogeton. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. I'm not sure if it is a competition for light, but if so, the bacopa would surely lose out to the aponogeton. I'm really at a loss at this point. I know the issue is likely due to some imbalance between the balance of CO2, light, and nutrients, but unfortunately, I haven't dealt with this enough to understand how to investigate further. Any insight would be very much appreciated! Thank you guys as always!
  13. Hello Everyone, I purchased a Banana Plant here from Aquarium Co Op a few months ago, though I can't say exactly when. The plant seemed to be doing fine: I had it sitting on a sand substrate, with root tabs and liquid fertilizer, so it's been sprouting new leaves and roots. Unfortunately in the past few weeks it appears to be getting sickly. One of the "bananas" (if you will) has turned yellow, but the biggest problem is that the leaves are turning brownish-red and are disintegrating. I'm quite exasperated by this. I had attempted a planted aquarium over a year ago and had the same issue: the leaves would slowly turn translucent and disintegrate, despite using liquid all-in-one liquid fertilizer and having appropriate plant lighting. Picture: http://imgur.com/a/xQ4rOAQ I'm not sure what could be causing this issue. I've tried researching it, but can't find anything describing what's happening with my plants. I really want to have a planted aquarium, but I can't keep spending money on plants only to have them die... Please help!
  14. I have been seeing a lot of roots shooting out mid stem, from most of my stemmed plants. Ugly white strands in tangled clumps ugh. What causes this and how do I minimize? I assume its due to nutrient deficiency in the substrate. I thought to ask first, before I put more root tabs in. TIA!
  15. I am new to forums. I just got my easy Green fertilizer. 2/3 of my plants are low light like cryptsand anubias, and the other 1/3 are stem plants like bacopa, rotalla indica, and water wisteria, etc. Do I apply the fertilzer once a week or twice and how often do I change water to remove nitrates or do I test weekly? Thank..stuattti
  16. So if you diagnose a plant nutrient deficiency correctly and take measures to correct it will the damaged leaves recover or will it just prevent further damage. For example I have some bacopa with holes in the leaves. It seems to be potassium deficiency. Will the leaves with the holes repair themselves if I dose potassium or will it just prevent more leaves from showing up with holes?
  17. I just picked up some water sprite and rotala indica for my 20g. I thought id just buy some fertilizer online but didn't realize there were so many different kinds. I was going to purchase Easy Green all in one but doesn't ship to Canada. Any recommendations for a fertilizer that is good for beginners.
  18. Hello everyone so i started using easy green and my plants started growing decently but they have grown lots and lots of hair algae on the leaves,glass,and filter.I saw somewhere that sychem flourish kills algae so i was thinking if i could use easy green one week then sychem flourish to kill the algae and then easy green again.I dont really know if it makes sense but its just an idea thank you
  19. ***edit*** I should mention I have 10 cardinal tetras, 6 Corys and 6 amano shrimp in their way to my tank next week. I should probably get this figured out!*** So, I thought I Was doing well. I don’t have a massive algae explosion or anything. However, I think I’m realizing my plants are growing a lot slower than they should. Also, because they aren’t growing well, they aren’t using the nitrates up. At all. I did a water change a week ago and they are testing red. I’m not super consistent with the ferts as far as exact same day every week, but I have been doing it twice a week for the last 3 weeks. Before I started dosing a 2nd time, plants weren’t growing at all so I think twice is needed. The 1 thing I’m going to change is my light schedule. I was doing 8am-12pm and again from 5pm - 10pm. I’m going to switch to a solid 8 hours from 4pm-12am. See how that affects things. I have the octopus plant(3), java moss mats (2), a very wimpy and not doing well vallisneria, 4-5 Anubias plants. A cryptocoryne, 2 dwarf lilies (dropped in same time and one is an inth of the size of the other), a Christmas moss bridge and a Tiger lotus. Does anyone have any thoughts?
  20. Approximately how long does it take for plants to absorb liquid fertilizers? I assume it depends on the number of plants that are water column feeders, their immediate need for nutrients, and the amount of water in the aquarium. How about a lightly planted 30 gallon that just got several more water column feeders (to make the tank heavily planted) just a few weeks ago? Is it best to dose the tank after a water change? Is it okay to dose a day or two (or three or four) before a water change so the nutrients are not wasted? I assume adding the Easy Green All-In-One Fertilizer will not spike the level of ammonia in the aquarium. I use tabs too, of course. I do not have water column feeders exclusively.
  21. I have been looking at my local water quality report, and was curious how I need to adjust my fertilizer dosing based on these numbers so I don't have an imbalance from dosing excess of specific macros or micros. I'm currently alternating Flourish and Easy-Green. I'm using Easy-Green cause I like the higher Potassium, and Flourish cause it has less Nitrates and Phosphates. But I'd like to get away from "all-in-ones" and utilize more of what is already in my water from the tap. I inject co2(not trying to hit 30ppm, but enough to make a difference) and use a Finnex Planted+ 24/7 HLC.
  22. This is my first year summer tubbing, and I am planning to get a water lily. What fertilizer did everyone use for their water lilies? Will the easy root tabs work, or do I need a pond specific fertilizer tab?
  23. Can anyone give me any advice on what I could have going on here? This is hygrophila corymbosa that I got probably 9 months ago and it has been in this tank since then. It started at about half of what is there now, and at one point was much denser than it is now. It peaked probably 2 months ago and has been losing leaves since then. My parameters are 0 ammonia and nitrite. My nitrates are 30-40 however I dose ez green. pH is 7.8 but that’s what comes out of my tap and that’s what it has always been even when it was growing well. I also use seachem flourish root tabs. Any guesses would be helpful. I’m sure something is missing I just can’t figure out what.
  24. bought All Plants i bought from aquarium coop. This a newly established aquarium 29 gallon. its 21" tall ,24 wide ,12"deep Water parameters. Temperature :around 76F HRPH: 8.2 ammonia: 0-.25 nitrite: 0 nitrates: 40-80 GH: 0 KH: its high.. i don't know I use stress coat to condition tap water for changes, and let the water sit in a bucket for a few days. (Sorry about the cloudy water in photo.Doing a water change today. Just recently added 5 cory cats and had a bacterial bloom then my son accidentally turned off my sponge filter for a few hours i didn't know. 😮 So the plants Looked good on arrival, They got caught in that recent snowstorm somewhere during transit, but still arrived looking nice. (Props to aquarium coop for awesome shipping.) I Use the easy green and iron. Java Fern: I glued them to rocks and plants weights ,started having black spots in a few days now almost completely blackish brown now. Amazon sword: Planted in substrate with root tabs. leaves turned yellow in a few days, now almost see-through and brownish yellow. but the shoot still green. Micro grass: planted in substrate just melted and disappeared gone. Water sprite : planted but just melted and disappeared vanished. banana plant and moss ball are ok it seems. Running a brand new finnex 24" low light led. on a timer (i know micro grass is high light but thought it might ok.) Lots of money Not much success.And frustrating Would it better to condition my water for plants or just find plants that can handle my water conditions? (high ph and such) If so what plants would that be? ..I have a water softener system for my house that i use the tap water for tanks. And a separate r.o. system for drinking water. my ph runs high. Talk to me.
  25. This is Chester- he loves cello, his food, dancing, and the couch. Here he's taking an afternoon break by my workspace. So I have an abundance of rabbit pellets, could I bake them and use them as fertilizer for the aquarium plants, or is this extremely unsafe?
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