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About Me

Found 4 results

  1. Hello @Zenzo and ACO team! Hello everyone, I had a bit of a "moment" this morning. 😂 I was checking my KH/PH/GH on my semi-daily testing and I ran into a question, led myself down a rabbit hole, and I really would love to know a few of these questions. I feel like a lot of hobbyists might have some of the same questions, so I'll share them here. My hope is that eventually this makes it's way to the website or potentially sparks an idea for a video to help people out. First tip, if you have ever had any issues reading test results, I have heard a few people mention converting the results to grayscale to try to interpret them. Here is a really good website where you can do this and potentially save yourself some guessing. https://www.color-blindness.com/coblis-color-blindness-simulator/ Second, If you are having issues with the colors having a different hue around the edges, it is very likely there was some sort of contamination from the other pad. I just had this happen when I tried to take the photo, the pad itself absorbed a little bit of water on the KH pad from the GH pad. You can see discoloration on the KH as well as the PH pad 😕 To avoid this, the tip is to let your strip rest on a towel instead of a non-porous surface when waiting the necessary 60 seconds for results. This really tends to help keep things like that from happening and was a tip I saw from this hobbyist! The third tip I would give people is to use an app like aquarium notebook or a notepad to log your results. This is helpful if you are trying to adjust something in the tank over time or simply to have the data available to look back on when you need it. If a fish becomes sick, or you see a nutrient deficiency on a plant, that data might be invaluable. My questions I'd like to understand: 1. Can you talk about the development of this product and what the process is like to determine what colors end up on the color chart? 2. The directions say to wait 60 seconds before reading results. Does this matter for every test or just nitrite and nitrates? 3. What if I accidentally walk away for 2-3 minutes, are the results valid? Would the results be valid still for some of the pads? Are the results accurate if the pads haven't dried up? 4. If someone is using the ACO strips in comparison to a liquid test kit, what factors determine accuracy? (For instance, which one is newer?) 5. Generally speaking, are strips more accurate because they result in less error performing the test? Meaning, you dip it, wait, and then it's down to understanding the results (Question #2-3) vs. a liquid kit where you have to shake the bottles for a specific amount of time in a certain way. 6. If you have "weird results" what is the best thing to do? (Ex. I had my water reporting very low GH because I forgot to aerate the water thoroughly enough, and/or because I forgot to add dechlorinator. I repeated the 24 hour aeration test with more aeration/dechlor and the results were normal) 7. If you are trying to use something like crushed coral, equilibrium, alkaline buffer, Epsom salt, etc. to buffer your water, is there a general guideline of time to wait before testing for "valid" results? 8. When it comes to planted tanks specifically, I tend to track nitrates for my dosing schedule. However, I am finding myself struggling to read 10 ppm results. Is there any lighting condition that these tests were designed for to be optimal for clear reading? Right now I use a LED flashlight. 9. If a color is "off the scale" it just means it's over the edge of the value indicated, right? 10. How often should I purchase test strips once I open the container? If you have any other questions you think might be useful for this type of a list, please post them below!
  2. Would appreciate some advice from experienced keepers. I have a new 40 gal. breeder set up that I used a combination of Fritz 7, Fritz Fishless Fuel (Ammonia) and eventually some active sponge filters from Angelsplus.com to cycle. My goldfish arrived yesterday from King Koi and they appear to be doing great (2 baby Ranchus & 2 baby Orandas). I have some moss, a water sprite and a small crinum calamistratum in the tank as well. The substrate is sand. The water parameters before the fish arrived 24 hours ago: Ph 8.2, Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 10 ppm, 70 degrees f The water parameters this morning: Ph 8.2, Ammonia 0-.25 ppm (can't really tell but it looks like maybe a tinge of greenish), Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 10-12 ppm, 70 degrees f It's hard for me to discern if there's a green twinge, but it seems it could be heading in that direction. Is this to be expected with the increased bio load? Does an increase portend an Ammonia spike? How much Ammonia constitutes a spike? I know it is very important to keep Ammonia & Nitrite at zero, and I have also read a bit this morning about calculating unionized Ammonia versus the raw Ammonia result produced by the test kit. I test the tank daily because I really don't want my fish to suffer any ill effects. Thanks in advance! --Juli
  3. @Cory I have been fighting my water since I started the hobby. 7? Years? Not by trying to keep fish that don't match my water, but by keeping fish at all. My water has always been "wacky". Before I found the Co-op, I tried seachem's line of buffers and they didn't work. Support said that a buffer in my tap was fighting their buffers. CC fixed my problems in general for most fish, (shrimp just die) however due to chemistry I don't understand, to get the slight increase in kH in my water, the gH jumps from 75 to well over 300. I'm not sure exactly how high...it's too high to read. I need the kH...my pH has crashed too many times. Two weeks ago I lost a fish or 2 from every tank that got a water change. (Luckily I was lazy) I happened to be doing an experiment and caught 5g of my tap water. It was perfect for about a week. My theory is that the change in tap water however briefly.... With a larger water change was too much for the fish to adapt to. I'm guessing smaller water changes or leaving water out overnight and test before. However what I really want is to understand. I've just lost too many fish. It's heartbreaking and frustrating. I can't find these fish anywhere now... They are not replaceable. (Although I know Cory knows someone 😉) The fact that a similar cycle of deaths happens every 6-8 months is making sense. Can anyone relate? Anyone with something similar? Or is this just me? (It's usually just me) P.s. I live in this sweet spot (nasty spot) where we buy water from 3 different treatment plants. One is Old City with horrible pipes, the second is rural with fertilizer runoff, the third is awesome, but small. Thanks
  4. I can see that some people takes here about ammonia reading between the methods . But for me I get consistent opposite pH results the strips tells me I have very low pH 6.4 the lowest red color in the strip. While the API telling me I have 7.6 the darkest blue in the chart What is going on ? I have male guppies , young neocaridina shrimp and ramshorn snails. So far only the the snails are breeding ( shrimp are too young and guppies all male ) but all of them seams to be active , playful , eating and happy so I am not sure what to think ...
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