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  1. I wanted to give some update pictures! Thank you to everyone who gave me pointers a few months back. I definitely have it dialed in now. Biggest changes were/are: Super OCD removal of every bit of staghorn I could find. Almost 100% removal of Java Moss. Addition of 6 Siamese Algae Eaters, and a few more Amano Shrimp. Increased the flow with a wave pump. NO FERTILIZERS used anymore! I had stopped them to try to get the plants to uptake the Nitrates. The plants have totally flourished without ferts!!! One pouch of Fritz Max Out. This added in controlling the Nitrites. Automated the curtains in the bay window with 2 switchbot curtain motors. Curtains are closed prior to daylight and opened at dusk. Other automations are done via smart outlets for 2nd light, co2, and air pump. Lighting: Co2 injection. (Co2 Art Pro-SE regulator, Co2 Art tubing,10lb cylinder, and Co2 art Bazooka Flux diffuser.)
  2. @Koi Thank you for the response! (Thank you @Mmiller2001 as well. I did read that article) I am definitely not dead set on the siestas. Here is my current lighting schedule: I was also running the Nicrew light mimicking the fluval schedule via a smart plug. I have since taken that light out of the equation when the algae really went nuts. Fert Dosing: I was using the flourish line of ferts prior to adding the Co2. Excel, Flourish, Flourish Advanced, and Iron. Excel was daily, advanced was daily, iron was every other day,, and flourish was 1 to 2 times a week.. I bought the UNS "all in one" a few days ago and have been following the every other day directions of 1 pump per 10gal. I definitely noticed the algae increased with the UNS fert. I put flourish root tabs in about 2 months ago. Co2: I only started running Co2 5 days ago. I have that on a smart plug coming on at 7am and shutting off at 9pm. I have it set to 1 bubble per second in the bubble counter. I also have the air pump on a smart plug that was shutting off while the Co2 is running. Air would come back on through the night. The Co2 appeared to be diffusing through the larger UNS glass diffuser pretty well. I notice that the entirety of the disk wasn't diffusing. The Co2 only comes out of a small portion of the diffuser disk area. The drop checker would be green by the end of the day though. Definitely don't feel confident in how that system is running though. I will definitely be doing a hard restart like you have suggested. I did do something close to that around 2 months ago where I did a bleach dip on the Reineckii's to kill some algae. It somewhat worked for a little while. The stag horn algae has been terrible. I probably have pulled out 3 or 4 softball sized piles of it over the past month. Feels impossible to get it all. I also tried the spot dosing of Excel on algae with no avail. I removed a great deal of the Java Moss already and trimmed the vandelli down by half. The majority of the reineckii's seem like they might be too far gone. The Monte Carlo is having no problems growing. The crypts and Vals are growing fine. The Anubius Nana petite is covered in the stag horn. It also might be too far gone. Java moss was a bad idea. 100% admit that one. At this point if I can't get it beaten back, and dialed in, I feel like I might have to "Nuke" it and start over. Your insight into my mess is greatly appreciated! - Joe
  3. Follow up: I purchased the CO2Art regulator and all the peripherals for it. I have it running off a 5lb cylinder on a smart socket. Algae has kicked into overdrive! I am at a loss right now. My best guess is not enough flow in the tank. I currently have a Marineland Magniflow 220 right now. I just built a makeshift spray bar to beef it up until I can buy a larger sized cannister filter. I've been trying to dose ferts according to the directions. The Co2 system was running at 1 bubble a second. I also started a chemiclean treatment yesterday which is probably pointless. Anyone have any other helpful insight? Here is the post I made with all the other equipment: Best regards, Joe
  4. @starsman20 I am definitely buying one after this happened. It's crazy to me how fragile the ceramic spindle is. I'm curious if different brands use something other than ceramic. I also wonder if this is by design. LIke a shear pin of sorts if something were to get stuck in the impeller.
  5. What's up everyone. Yesterday afternoon the ceramic rod (spindle) for the impeller on my cannister filter broke! In 2 places! Has anyone dealt with this issue on their filters? I scrambled to try to find a replacement impeller locally with no avail. Amazon is the quickest resolution unfortunately. I did end up doing some backyard engineering to keep me going until tomorrow. So far my makeshift spindle is functioning well. I lost one Black Phantom Tetra during the down time on the filter as this was also the very first day running co2 in the tank (unlucky). - Joe
  6. Thank you @Jack.of.all.aquariums and @Mmiller2001 for the input. I purchased the CO2Art pro se regulator. To minimize cost for now I am going to try running it off a 20oz paintball cannister. I will update how it goes once everything is set up and running. From what I have read, the co2 injection should help combat the staghorn algae issues in addition to ramping up growth on the plants. Is this info correct? I have been pulling out at least a handful of it every few days. It is terrible in the Java moss! Really hopeful that I can dial it in to boost the growth/health of the Monte Carlo, Anubius Nana petite, and the Reineckii's (Normal Alternanthera and Variegated). - Joe
  7. @Jack.of.all.aquariums Thanks for the info. I've tried to look at everything I could find online for the regulators. I definitely plan on using at a minimum a 5lb cylinder. The UNS mini says it fits onto all different types of cylinders from disposable to the CGA320 fitting on big tanks. I guess I am more curious to whether the size of the regulator has any bearing to the size of a aquarium. My idea is that I really doesn't matter since you are counting the bubbles regardless. Does that make sense at all? My plants are definitely growing without CO2 but I am having a terrible time with staghorn algae. My Monte Carlo definitely needs the CO2 boost as well. - Joe
  8. Hey everyone! I have a question regarding the size of a regulator for Co2 injection on my 55 gallon tank. I am looking to get injection going but don't want to drop $300 on a regulator. Would the UNS mini be able to provide enough Co2 into the tank? I definitely want the dual stage aspect and a reputable brand. Any insight is always appreciated!! - Joe
  9. I sorta just solved the light spread issue for my tank. Put 2 plastic cups under the arms to raise the light up a bit higher. Should I turn the values up to make up for further distance? Doubt it is getting enough at the Monte Carlo on the bottom. (Picture makes it look brighter than it actually is IRL).
  10. @Streetwise Thank you. I started to read the siesta thread you made and it makes sense to me. I wish we could have more timepoints to fine tune the siestas. Here is what I have adjusted in the app: What are your thoughts on the second light I mentioned in the OP? Should I stop using it completely? Do you recommend purchasing the longer fluval light? I have real dark corners while using this light. Doesn't quite cover the space.
  11. **** LONG POST ALERT **** Hey everyone! I hope someone can give me some insight into what I am doing wrong in my tank (first aquarium newb). I currently have an algae issue and real weak plant growth/plant health right now. I had blue green algae and treated it with Chemiclean successfully so far. Some is still hanging around in the first picture below. Here are some pictures of what I have going on right now: Stocking: 12 Neon tetras 6 Black Phantom Tetras 6 Dwarf Praecox Rainbows 4 Panda Corys 2 Plecos 2 Oto's 6 Amano Shrimp 3 Cherry Shrimp 2 Unknown Shrimp (Ghost?) 1 Yellow Neo Shrimp 2 Mystery Snails Water Parameters: Frequent 20%- 30% water changes. Weekly or bi-weekly. Conditioned city tap water with Tetra water conditioner when doing a water change. Values shown in picture with test strip. They seem ok to me. Equipment: 55 gallon tank (used, unknown age and brand) Marineland Magniflow 220 canister filter w/ a Co-op pre filter sponge on the intake. Finnex HC-810M Digital temp controller with Finnex TH-0300S 300w heater. Wisper AP150 air pump with generic airstone Fluval Planted 3.0. (It is the 36" version. I believe it is too small for the length of a 55g and I should have bought the 48".) NICREW ClassicLED Plus Planted Aquarium Light- 48". (Was told I didn't have enough light at LFS. Added this after going by their recommendation of more light. Pretty sure this part of the issue.) Glass covers for top. Substrate: CaribSea Eco-Complete x6 bags. Gravel from friends established tank in mesh bags under the substrate for height in areas. One package of 10 Flourish Root tabs put in a few weeks ago. Fertilizers: Flourish, Flourish Excel, Flourish Advanced, Flourish Iron, and Flourish Root Tabs (not shown). I do not use the API CO2 Booster in the picture. Have tried cleaning up some of the sludge with the Fritz Monster 360 shown and did one round of Chemiclean to attack a much worse blue green algae that was caked into the java moss. The chemiclean did a good job and I physically removed the worst bits. It does appear that the algae is still lingering on the Mayaca Vandelli seen in above picture. Feeding: I feed a combo of frozen Hikari Daphnia, frozen Hikari Brine Shrimp, and the below dry foods. I don't really use the dry blood worms or the bug bites much at all. How I have been doing everything: Morning: Fluval Light comes on at 7:45am (Pictures of settings provided). NiCrew was coming on at the same time but i have since cut the NiCrew out of the morning period. I feed before leaving for work. Typically only one of the mentioned foods. I don't know why but I somehow convinced myself that the fish need variety and to switch up what food they get randomly. I was 100% over feeding when I first got this tank up and running. now they only eat once a day. I dose 10ml of Flourish Advanced and 5ml of Flourish Excel daily. Flourish Iron and regular Flourish are every other day or every few days (Terrible at keeping track. Really need to simplify the ferts somehow). Midday: Siesta on the Fluval light from 12:30pm to 1:30pm. Both the Fluval and NiCrew come on at 1:45pm and they stay on till 9:30pm. Evening/Night: NiCrew shuts off at 9:30 and fluval starts ramp down till 11:15pm. The tank is in my living room and I really like being able to enjoy the tank when I am home from work in the evenings. All lights off at 11:20pm till morning. I have the heater set to 78°F. I figured it was the most neutral temp for everything in the tank. As I said, this tank is in my living room and unfortunately next to the bay window. I know that this is also having an affect on the algae from the sunlight. Summery: First, sorry for the ridiculously LONG post. I really just want to understand how to make the plants and fish healthier while keeping the algae to a minimum. I know that I could really use a CO2 system. I have a strong feeling that I am providing way to much light to the tank. Should I discontinue use of the NiCrew and replace the Fluval for the longer length version? I really don't like the fertilization that I am using. Easy Green instead??? As always, thank you to anyone who has some tips/tricks/pointers for this post!!! - Joe
  12. One more picture. My little guy wanted to be in a picture!
  13. Installed it this afternoon. Not too sure about this film. I'm thinking maybe more of a slate grey privacy film instead of this frosted style. Didn't know if black would make it too dark (haven't changed the color paint in my living room since buying the house). Any thoughts?
  14. West Greenwich. Not far from Ocean State Aquatics.
  15. Thank you @Daniel and @Lynze. I have More context to the question (should have included this in my first post). I trimmed this Val (pretty sure that's what it is...) a few weeks ago. The streaming only occurs when my light is on. @Daniel is there any merit to trimming on an angle? I swear I read/saw something about that.
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