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StephenP2003

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StephenP2003 last won the day on August 17 2020

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About StephenP2003

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  • Birthday 06/21/1985

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  1. This for sure. I sweat pretty easily, and the LFS environment (humid, generally warm) plus a mask over my bearded face is a bad combo. My LFS also seemed to have a much better selection pre-covid, but things are getting a little better now.
  2. I've watched quite a few videos on shipping fish, and the general consensus on packing is pretty clear: Insulated box (most people just use foam panels) Heat pack in winter (attached to the inside of the box and separated from the fish bags themselves) Filler of some sort to keep the fish bags in place (I've seen packing peanuts, blown insulation, and newspaper. Fast the fish for a couple days before shipping Double-bag Make sure there aren't corners for fish to get trapped in (double-bagging usually solves this) What doesn't seem clear, or where people differ: Water volume -- too much and the shipping charge skyrockets, too little and you risk polluting the water. So what's the optimal amount of water to get, say, a trio of guppies, safely through the mail in 2-3 days? How much more if you were shipping a chunker, like a 4-5" oscar or fancy goldfish? Air -- A lot of fish shippers seem to use straight O2, and others just regular air. The advantage of the O2 seems to be higher water:air ratio, but could be other circumstances that call for O2 over regular air. Then of course there's the breather bags, which seems to be the better solution except in certain cases (e.g. fish that can puncture the bag). Water Source -- Some people just use the tank water, others use fresh conditioned water, and some use half and half. Anyone with lots of experience shipping fish care to chime in? Always good to have a solid foundation of good practices for anyone starting a breed-for-profit setup!
  3. I have some of those racing stripe kind, too. This one has a narrow one. I don't think it makes a big difference in looks.
  4. True, but the chart seemed to show a logical progression in color intensity/coverage, and then the Rilli. I just found that... Rilli interesting.
  5. Wait, is Rilli actually more desirable than Fire or Painted Fire? Based on the above pic, I definitely have a lot of Fire shrimp, and Rilli shrimp that I "culled" but putting in my betta tank. But my betta doesn't touch them.
  6. Mixed bag. I was breeding the mostly black ones (called "Black Neon") for a while, but sort of boring. Then my wife brought home her orange mickey mouse platy, and I just started a mutt platy colony in the same tank as my mutt guppy/endler hybrid colony. I don't cull unless I see a serious issue, which is rare.
  7. I just took some photos of a sample selection of my assorted platies. Getting ready to list some for sale.
  8. Not often I see rarer fish in my LFS that are compatible with my communities. Paid $21 for this guy/gal - which is a lot compared to my usual MO of buying schools of $5 fish. The only higher priced fish in my house is the betta. Once I put it in my 90-gallon, it disappeared for a week, but has since become more comfortable so I could get a photo. Anyone else keep these? I haven't even kept the more common hillstream loaches before.
  9. Aqueon tanks are mass produced, so imagine workers trying to silicone X number of tanks a day. They're more or less slapped together, but they seem to have a low enough leak/failure rate. Some of them just tend to have remnants of sloppier craftsmanship than others. Fill it with water and stick a background behind it, see if the flaws catch your eye too much. If they do, I'd return it and find the best looking replacement you can. Problem around here is there might be one 75-gallon at one Petco in the entire city.
  10. It's not really an alternative; it serves a different purpose which is to keep algae at bay. But you don't need to inject CO2 (especially not just for the sake of moneywort). I'm just a tinkerer, and the CO2 is really serving as a substitute for patience.
  11. Yes and yes 😁 I completely lost several stem plant bundles before figuring things out. Anubias, unless you get the dreaded rhizome rot, won't be a total loss if you don't have your nutrients/light dialed in yet. I had ruined a nanapetite to the point that all I had left of it was a quarter-inch piece of rhizome. I left it alone attached to a rock for about 6 months, and it developed several new leaves. Crypts like iron at the roots, but otherwise easy green is definitely fine for those plants. Maybe your water will like Moneywort better than mine, but I got tiny leaves and algae until I started using CO2. I might've bunched them too close together.
  12. Thanks for sharing the lighting settings. That's your culprit. You are running a fluval 3.0 at full blast on these plants for over 14 hours a day. That's a lot, way too much even if you were going whole hog on CO2. I'm running a single fluval 3.0 on a 24-inch tall tank, with fairly heavy CO2 injection and E.I. daily fertilization, and my peak lighting period is less than half that. Adding CO2 into the mix, maintaining a medium level of fertilization, probably is making the algae worse. Algae is caused by an imbalance of nutrients, light, and CO2 -- sometimes it can be tough to identify the imbalance, but luckily in this case it's obvious the light is the problem. I do recommend taking a day for a hard restart, at least manual removal of as much algae as possible. Drastically reduce your lighting asap. Start with "Bentley's Day Sim" settings here: https://imgur.com/a/CTIjYYu Fertilize daily or as often as you can (not a full dose: the point is to spread out the dosing, giving the plants enough time to use the nutrients before the algae can take advantage). Do this for weeks/months, observing growth. This isn't going to fix everything, but it's going to put you on the right track. If you start seeing algae, you'll know something is out of balance, but at that point it probably won't be so far out of whack that the algae is uncontrollable.
  13. I also have a co2 injected 40 breeder and a fluval 3.0. I use Bentley's day Sim, but I have modified it and extended the peak lighting period by 2 hours. I grow a mix of high, mid, and low light plants (crypts, dwarf sagg, rotala, ludwigia, montecarlo, etc) and fertilize 5 days a week. I use a modified E.I. daily dosing method mixing my own dry ferts, so that potassium and micros are dosed E.I., but only adds 1ppm nitrate and no phosphate. My fish load adds nitrate and my tap water has phosphate. Check your nitrate levels. Water sprite and co2 I imagine would really suck down the nitrates, and fast growing stems like ludwigia would hog a good bit of the fertilizer as well. I would say stick with the day Sim setting (especially if you aren't also blasting co2 to the 30ppm range) and dose your all in one fertilizer as often as possible, daily if you can (but a low amount, say a quarter to a half dose). Then test your water right before you do your usual water change. When I make light and fert changes, I will usually test for potassium, phosphate, and nitrate. A current pic of my tank... In the center there I'm still trying to get pogo helferi to grow from a tissue culture, and on the right I'm trying to convert s Repens to submersed. The red on the tree stump ornament is BBA that I killed last night. It grew as a result of over fertilization before I modified the day Sim settings to increase lighting period.
  14. I impulse bought a strawberry spotted hillstream loach at my LFS, and released it into my 90 gallon on Saturday. I saw it in the glass that night but have not seen it since. Hopefully it'll emerge when it's more confident. That was a $20 fish.
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