Mmiller2001

Staghorn is usually related to ammonia spikes. And I'm not talking about detectable amounts via hobbyist test kits. Also, staghorn triggers can be from changes made to the tank. Such changes could be light, water change frequency and fertilization regiment. So this is probably what you are seeing. The GSA is most likely low P. A good ratio is 3:1 N:P. Unfortunately, Easy Green's ratio is much different, so you could try increasing pumps, as you seem to be a little low on dosing. If we use NO3 as a target, you are only dosing 3ppm per week. You have some room there to dose more. You might also look into different fertilizers that would allow you to target individual components. Not saying you aren't, but try to be consistent with water chages. Frequency and the amount changed should be the same. Make sure to remove mulm and plant debris any time you see it. I have to pick out leaves every day. Now on to the elephant. BBA and Staghorn get wrecked by Excel. I would spot dose it next water change. Be warned, some plants hate Excel. Val and dwarf Sag will melt and others. That said, it's very effective. My 75 is borderline over stocked. I get staghorn any time I disturb the substrate, or miss removing plant debris. It's just a product of having high ammonia production in the tank. I will say Purigen has helped a bit. Also, I increased my plant load, and I'm noticing this helped as well.

https://fishlab.com/aquarium-kh/ Good article for beginners.

Betta come from soft acidic waters. That's no problem at all. I keep my tanks at 1.5KH and the person I follow, to learn aquarium plants, keeps a 0KH. A 3dKH is a good KH for Betta. Just do a 50/50 mix and you will be right on target.

Don't worry about KH chemistry, just have a basic understanding of what it does. It keeps pH in a relative range and holds it there. Higher KH, higher pH ranges Lower KH, lower pH ranges.

Increasing KH raises pH.

This.

It's a symptom of some underlying problem. Usually, bacterial infections. This could also be a symptom of your earlier cycling problems or trauma from previous medications used in excess. Also, Betta are soft water fish. Soft water fish in hard water can be an underlying long term stress condition. I would fix the water before trying any more meds. You could try doing a 50/50 source water to distilled water mix. That would put you at 7ishGH and 3ishKH.

Cabomba But this one can be a challenge to grow.

Hygrophila Corymbosa (Giant Hygro)

This weeks maintenance was rushed, so nothing new to report. Big hair cut on the 75 and removed the Rotala wall and all Corymbosa in both tanks. Added new plants to the 40, some crypts and a semi rare lily. Might have a new favorite plant, Potomageton Gayi. Started my Nitrate limiting in the 75. New dose is just 5ppm per week. I also started dosing K2SO4 to compensate for K loss from KNO3 reduction. QT fish getting better, but I'm suspecting Camallanus Worms. Going to try Metro in food, first, just in case the swelling is from stubborn tape worms. I will dose Panacur, in food, if that doesn't work. Both low tech tanks are doing well, plants look good, no changes. Post removal and haircut.

Are your Nitrates 0ppm or very low? Here's some help: https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/algae-control/how-to-control-cynobacteria

What ppm CO2 is the chart showing for your tap water?

Nice tank! Don't use pH down drops; that's going to cause phosphate issues in the tank. In an inert substrate tank, maintaining a pH below 7.3 to 7.2 is going to be more difficult. I would go grab a GH/KH test kit and do some reading on KH. It's KH that determines pH. If KH rises, pH rises and vise versa. Also, CO2 and O2 concentrations will alter pH without a KH change. So, if you heavily aerate the tank, you would expect a pH increase. Also, a 1KH is just as stable as a 6KH, this is often confused. So, the TL/DR version, test KH, adjust KH to 3dKH and you will find yourself pretty close to 7.4 -7.3, go to 1dKH and you will be around 6.8 to 7.2. If you drop to a 1 KH, you will want to test KH weekly.

Okay, at those pH's, Thrive then. You will see on fertilizers EDTA and/ or DTPA. EDTA for pH below 7, DTPA for pH above 7. They also have combos now too, marked EDTA+DTPA.

Does your pH drop take you below a 7.0pH? If it does, go Thrive+

I would go no less than 8 hours of light. That's a 1 hour ramp up and a 1 hour ramp down. I also recommend dosing daily, similar to either EI or PPS. And dosing 1 hour before lights on. Unfortunately, Easy Green isn't going to cut it long term alone. I highly recommend researching the various fertilizing systems that are used by the top aquarists. Pick one, and learn it. Blindly pumping an all in 1 is going to be problematic. Learning ratios and knowing the exact ppm of each component is important to know and will allow you to understand how each affect the plants. I recommend dry fertilizers; just off cost alone, but if you want to stay "all in one" Thrive+ is well balanced. This is going to be your best friend: https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php Best beginner CO2 information I could find: https://www.2hraquarist.com/

30% water change and then treat per directions; which requires a 30% water change before each dose.

You don't have too. Just watch the fish. If you see signs of a specific disease, then treat the single disease per directions on the box.

Once you have a few generations in the tank, things will get easier. Hang in there.

Removal is all you can do. Hopefully, no others are infected. I had a shrimp with it and removed it. The colony is fine. If you see it on another, remove it the second you notice it.

I would dose K and Trace elements. I would also add more plants. Your goal should be a net loss of Nitrates where you add fertilizer to bring numbers back up. If you like stem plants, I recommend Hygrophila Polysperma. It's a nitrate hog, and very pretty. Can grow planted or just placed in the tank. It's very versatile.

Betta Falx, also Betta Coccina to a point.

https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/algae-control/how-to-control-bba Look at the second picture. Is that what your seeing? Or similar.

I'm looking at the dark stuff, building up on the edges of the plants. Is that what you are referring to?

Yeah, hard to know then. Keeping Kanaplex and Furan 2 on hand is something to think about going forward. Focus will bind it to food. I'm really starting to love Kanaplex dosed orally.