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About Me

  1. Hey, quick question about KanaPlex dosing. I have a 30 gal that has minor epistylis, saw it this morning. I have seen the KanaPlex dose chart, and saw that it’s one scoop KanaPlex, one focus and a tablespoon of food per 5 gallons, does that mean I have to do 6 tbsp food?? My fish definately don’t eat that much 😂. Is there a better way to do this or am I just not understanding right?
  2. It’s almost been about 5 1/2 months since I have set my nano tank up and it’s been amazing. Although I’ve never really understood the calculating and all the scientific things that go on into a tank, I finally got a tds meter and shrimp minerals from saltyshrimp to start somewhere lol. I got the meter and shrimp minerals a few hours ago and I was shocked. I surely figured my tds was going to be over 300 since I’ve never tested it but check it out!😁 I haven’t even added the minerals nor do I use RO or distilled water. I do one water change a month of about 15% water. I don’t vacuum the substrate since shrimp are grazers and will eat just about anything. I add aquasafe to my tap water and stir the water for a few minutes and then let it sit for some hours. (Always test your water too) I dose my plants with 1 pump of Easy Green on one day of each week. Sometimes I may do 1 1/2 pumps depending on if I’ve trimmed plants. keep in mind, your tank could be different than mine so everything could be different. TDS / 173 Temp / 68-75
  3. Hi - was wondering if someone might have some tips or could direct me to a video/blog/forum thread (I tried searching the forum but the results were really broad) -- I'm looking for advice on how best to get to the correct dosage for metronidazole to treat fin rot in a betta in a 3 gallon tank. We do have a kitchen scale, so I could measure out the right weight of powder using a ratio from the 10 gallon dosage. Another thing I have done before is dump half in a 5 gal bucket, and that is my "treatment water" Any better ideas?
  4. Currently adding Easy Green and Carbon, but being consistent isn't easy these days. Been thinking of adding Iron soon making too. Would be easier just to dose and keep up with reservoir levels. I like Echotech and their versa pumps are nice but pricey and in short supply. Been considering the Jebao Wifi 3.4 but its hit and miss on reviews. Who's using what and thoughts on your units?
  5. Heyo! So I'm currently in the process of starting a 20G Blackwater Tank (It's a UNS 60U if this helps with dimensions and things like that) It's 23.6in L x 14.2in W x 14.2in H. Just like the title says, I'm aiming for the PH to be about 5.0-5.5 which is to suit the best needs for the stocking I've got so far on a list and I'm 100% intending on keeping. So I'm looking for a bottom dwelling/scavenger species and maybe a top dwelling if I could fit them in. all suggestions are welcome! Current list so far: -4 Tweediei Licorice Gouramis (parosphromenus tweediei) (going to be a pair after I figure out which ones pair off once they age a bit more) 7-8 Dwarf Glass Fish (GYMNOCHANDA PLOEGI) Ideas I have: -6-7 Marble Hatchet Fish -4 Dwarf Anchor cats or 6 Pygmy Cories of some species I'm undecided on yet Plants: Salvinia Natans, Java Fern Windelov, Water Lettuce (temporary), and a Crypt or 2 of some species.
  6. I got everything planted. Should I dose with Easy Green? These have been sitting in the box overnight at the Post Office then another three and a half days in my aquarium.
  7. I have a 55 gal fish tank and I do a 60% water change every 2 weeks. My nitrates at the water change is usually 20ppm then is usually 40ppm before the water change with adding no fertilizer. Do I or should I add fertilizer? I did this time and its only been a week since my water change and the nitrates are almost 80ppm.
  8. Hey all, just wanted to give a PSA I guess. Or get any input on my situation I’ve been having some algae problems (hair and bba) in my new display tank. When I was doing my water change today I figured why not use some hydrogen peroxide and get some of it killed off. So I lowered the water level as low as the fish were comfortable with and went to work spraying it onto where the algae has been growing. Fast forward about 45 minutes later, fish are gasping at the top and a Cory is swimming sporadically. I watched them for a little bit and saw no change so I hurried and did a 50% water change and I’ve left the lights on to speed up the breakdown process. So far I’ve lost 5 corys of my breeding colony and 1 discus. I expect I’ll have more losses when I wake up in the morning. Really hoping I don’t lose my expensive discus pair but we’ll see. Anyways just a heads up, it’s not hard to overdose it when you have your water level very low in a large tank. I’m sure everyone would be fine with the amount I added if the tank was full but with it being lower I assumed I’ve damaged the gills of the fish. I’ve treated dozens of tanks before and not had an issue but I definitely will just remove any scape with algae in the future before treating.
  9. I follow Greggz and try to emulate what he does; as his tank is insanely beautiful. So hopefully this will give some insight to those who want to dig a bit deeper. Burr740 is Joe Harvey fyi. Pulled from here. https://www.plantedtank.net/threads/share-your-dosing-thread.1288329/
  10. 1) What is a good target number (ppm) for Iron, specifically with red plants? 2) What test do you prefer? I was looking at the Seachem test. (edited: I think I mispoke earlier reffering to the seachem test as strips) 3) Should I just forget 1 and 2 and look at try to let the plants tell me.... I will probably test just to know the baseline but interested to hear how folks like to manage this.
  11. I have a low tech and dosing with Easy Green, I recently got some Ludwigia Ovalis and Ludwigia SP red. If I dose I my tank is running just easy green enough iron? Or should I supplement easy green iron as well?
  12. Ok, so I bought some Gold Dust Mollies this past weekend and after watching them for a day I was disappointed by what I was seeing. Two of them were thin and looking thinner. After a couple more days observation I could see white stringy poop and they didn’t look any better. I had Paracleanse on hand and I dosed the QT tank Tuesday. Yesterday the two fish were stressed to the max. They spent most of the day resting at the surface on water sprite foliage, and when they were swimming they were shimmying. They look much better today.Today is the day that I should treat them with the second dose of Paracleanse, but I’m concerned with how they did with the first round. So I am wondering if I should give them a break for a few days (2 maybe 3), and then start the treatment all over. I don’t know, maybe that would be worse. I thought I would source some opinions here and see what you all think.
  13. Hello, I just finished off a bottle of Easy Green, and it was my last one with the white pump. I opened another bottle, with the black pump, and noticed that when I pump it there's a significant difference. With the white one the fertilizer would shoot out, but it seems to have less pressure with the black one. Is it supposed to be that way, or did I get a bad pump?
  14. I am new to fish keeping. My 10 gallon tank turns a year old this week. I’ve decided to make the transition to live plants. On Saturday I added 3 plants to the tank along with a few of the marino moss balls. I added a bunch of the root tabs for the Amazon sword and other rooted plants added. I noticed that my swordtails we’re staying near the surface the next morning. I tested my levels and ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates were all through the roof. I did a 40% water change. I just tested again this morning and my numbers are still well elevated. I’m planning to do another water change. Did I add too many root tabs? I had tested the night before I added the plants and my numbers were perfect. I would appreciate any guidance. Obviously, I’m still learning and fear I messed something up. Thank you!
  15. Hi all, I saw on one of aquarium co-op's blog posts by Irene, it said "Following the recommended fertilizer dosing instructions, but then four months later when the plants have grown to triple their original size, you’re still dosing the same amount. Just as you automatically feed more food if you add more fish to an aquarium or if they grow bigger over time, you need to feed your plants more as they get taller or propagate." Is this true? Do you have to constantly up your fertilizer dosage? Am I doing it wrong? I have been dosing the same amount the whole time.
  16. I take care of two tanks for my elderly parents. My dad needs slot of help to remember to do things. Right now I put the Easy Green and Easy Carbon in pre-metered vials (one vial for each per day) in a tray labeled for each day. This works well for the large tank but not for the nano tank. The vials are so big he can never tell if he used them or not with the small amount of liquid in them. Can I pre-mix the easy green and easy carbon in a large vial of water? I am looking at like 1ml of each with 10ml of water. This will make sure he keeps up with the doses.
  17. For the one pump a dayer's. Heat the end of airline and press it on the pump tip. Leave enough hanging down to squirt into the HOB discharge. It also keeps the lid from vibrating.
  18. Fellow Aquarists, What are your thoughts on a dosing schedule for general fertilization in a planted tank? For example if I have a 100 gallon aquarium and the packaging says "dose 1 ml per 10 gallons" " . . . twice a week for medium light tanks", that means each week the tank gets 20 ml. Even though the packaging says twice a week (and I know the "correct" answer is to always follow packaging instructions), but would it be better to give it a few ml each day, or 5 ml every other day? Is giving it a big shot every once in awhile or dosing it steady the best strategy? Thanks Phil
  19. I recently added some new stem plants, and I gave them some root tabs, but how do I know when they need more? I feel like this is probably a super basic question with an obvious answer, but I like to overthink things anyway. Is it just keeping track of plant health/growth? Anything specific to look for? Thank you!
  20. Hello, I had a bit of an issue this week that I believe was caused by nitrates being too high. I did my typical water change on Sunday and immediately added the Easy Green fertilizer. I have watched several product videos that say as long you know your starting point is 20ppm or less naturally, it’s ok to add the recommended dose. The photo is my normal level without Easy Green. I have a 75g tank. Ammonia and nitrites are 0 and pH is typically around 8. I have several slow growers - two types of Java fern and Anubias - a couple of Christmas moss things and some water lettuce and water sprite (and a banana plant that really just isn’t going much of anywhere yet). I dose 1x/wk and I have root tabs in the substrate around each rooted plant. After the water change, I saw that my Bettas specifically became affected by something. Fins clamping and a couple were just really suffering. For example, one white betta looked like her scales had burns. I did a second 30% water change on Sunday and did not add the Easy Green. Clearly, after just dosing, nitrates were at least 40ppm I did one more 30% water change yesterday just for peace of mind. (And I do add conditioner upon every water change.) I am scared to add the fertilizer again. What’s your experience with this? Should I wait until levels come down farther before adding? Or do I half dose it 🤷🏽‍♀️ Thanks for any advice you can offer!
  21. Patrice


    Using a Ich-X according to instructions but I have a question. If I do a 30% water change each day and reapply medication, should I only add 30% additional dose of the medication or the full specified dose for my 10 gallon tank?
  22. This is just a general, high-level question, because I am curious . . . . At what frequency can one medicate an aquarium? What I mean by this is, if your community tank displays illness in multiple fish and you run it through a course of meds, and then 6 months later, it incurs some other outbreak, would medicating the entire tank again be detrimental to the fish's health? I guess I'm wondering how many courses of meds a fish can handle within a given year without this itself becoming a health factor? Does anyone have experience with this specific case? I have no sick fish (that I am aware of) currently, so I don't have specifics to give. And, yes, I know one can remove individual fish to a quarantine. And I understand that if fish keep getting sick, check your tank params, etc . . . I'm just wondering about meds, and overmedicating by repeat doses spaces far apart, and how that affect fish health short or long term. (Imagine you got the sick three individual and distinct times in a year and had to take three courses of medicine as a result . . . this is what I'm thinking, but about fish.)
  23. Hi Everyone. I finished my second round of ParaCleanse as directed on the box and my fish still have these crazy long feces. Today (Friday) was the first day after the 25% water change and the first day I fed them since last Saturday. I fed very lightly. I'm sorry the pictures did not come out clearly but I think you can see the length of the fecal matter in the female Cyprichromis and the thickness of the fecal matter in the yellow-tailed male. The one coming out of the male was actually as least as long as the one coming out of the female but it broke right before I took the pictures. Should I do another round of ParaCleanse or switch to another medication like levamisole (Fritz Expel-P) or flubendazole? Maybe this isn't a parasite at all? Thanks!
  24. I just noticed one of my otos has a fungal infection and red gills. I´m running to the store to get a quarantine tank and some medicine. Is a 5 gtalon tank enough for this? I only have small fish. Thanks!
  25. Just set up co2 today, running 30ish psi about 1.5 bubbles per second, 2" jraldi diffuser in a 55 gallon, how many hours should I expect it to run before the drop checker turns green with the checker on the opposite end? I have guppies and neocardinia, everything I've read says 30ppm is too much for the shrimp and that's the level my checker is supposed to change and I'd hate to surpass the ideal level before it tells me. does anyone have first hand experience they can share to make sure I dont kill my critters in the pursuit of nicer plants?
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