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About Me

Found 16 results

  1. I follow Greggz and try to emulate what he does; as his tank is insanely beautiful. So hopefully this will give some insight to those who want to dig a bit deeper. Burr740 is Tom Barr fyi. Pulled from here. https://www.plantedtank.net/threads/share-your-dosing-thread.1288329/
  2. I’ve been trying to balance my 75 gallon, and I’m constantly unsure what I should be doing. I’m going to share my parameters and I hope someone more advanced might be able to help me along. Tank is a 75 gallon. Light: 48” NICREW Plus Planted. Currently set at 40% light. Comes on with a 30 min sunrise and 30 minute sunset. Total time on is 9 hrs. Fertilizer: Easy Tabs about 30 every 3-4 months plus an additional 6 every month for three Amazon Swords. I dose Easy Green. I was dosing every week, but I stopped that when someone recommended that I stop dosing liquid fertilizer because the majority of my plants were root feeders. I recently dosed to get to 20 ppm (slowly over 7-10 day), but it has been two weeks since I dosed and nitrates are rising instead of being used. The tank is heavily stocked. I have livebearers in the tank and there are fry everywhere. I also have Otocinclus, Neon Tetras, Rasboras, snails, and Cherry Shrimp. As for plants I have the Amazon Swords, crypts (lots of crypts), Crypt Parva, Dwarf Chain Swords, Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus, Anubias, Anubias Nano Petite, Water Sprite, and some Java Moss. Here is a recent update that I posted in my journal that provides an update on where my tank is and the decisions that I am trying to make to create balance in this tank.
  3. Hey Guys I am somewhat new to the hobby. Bred Guppies 10 Years ago but I moved so now I have different water. I have 2 water options 1# RO with pH of around 7.8 to 8.0 and 2# Hard Well water with pH 7.0, Calcium 200ppm, Magnesium 70ppm, Sulfate 438 ppm, TDS 845ppm, Hardness 45 gr/Gallon, Manganese .400ppm. My quiestion is what water options would you guys pick and what to add for good water for tropical fish. Like Guppies,Anglefish,Mollies,Swordtail,Corydoras,exc Thanks
  4. Hey so I just got the new test kits and was testing them out, super easy to use and read. Only problem is I can’t tell what the hardness is. It looks like it’s way over what the chart can read. So what do you all think it is?
  5. I am using 100% ro water and remineralizing with gh boost cause my well water has over 30 ppm nitrate in it. I do frequent water changes cause I’m breeding plecos and corys. My question is my kh is 0 and should I be worried about that and what should I use to raise it. Any info would be appreciated. Kirk
  6. I'm new to keeping shrimp but know they have some special mineral requirements for molting and staying healthy. I've seen some put crushed coral in their tanks for calcium, but I haven't done so. I don't know my exact hardness or TDS but I suspect they are mid-range (have seen calcium/lime build-up on tanks allowed to evaporate). I do have the Hikari shrimp cuisine but don't feed it everyday since they're sufficient biofilm. My question is, how much calcium do they need? Are there other good sources than crushed coral? What about pulverized egg shells? What other minerals are important for shrimp health/molting? One of my RCS is turning a cloudy-white. I'm not sure if this is due to molting recently/preparing to molt or if they're not getting enough needed minerals. I know one molted very soon after being introduced to my tank because I saw the exoskeleton, but since then, I added them (there was 3 total) to a larger tank until I re-scaped their dedicated 5 gal shrimp tank. Because they're in a 33 gal with lots of plants and rocks, I hadn't seen them much but now this one seems to be out and about much more. Not the best pics but gives you an idea of what I'm talking about. Thoughts? Should I just add the crushed coral? Anything else?
  7. Help! Please. I tested my water with the Aq.Coop test strips and an odd reading came up! The water hardness portion of the strip turned a darker shade of pink, not a shade of blue as the chart indicated it should. What does this mean? Any help would be extremely appreciated since I have fish coming and no where to put them! Best regards Troy B.
  8. I’ve had a thriving Neo tank for about a year, and in this last week suddenly there have been at least one or two deaths every day. Most have shown signs of white ring disease which I know means that the GH is too low for them to properly molt. My water tests confirmed that, which is confusing why it’d be so low suddenly. My question is how quickly can I safely raise GH in a 29g tank?
  9. I did a search and this hasn’t been talked about a lot here. As summer approaches and outdoor tubs are all the rage I’m hoping we can get a little in-depth. From what I’ve found in the limited information on the internet the main concern here is zinc leaching into the water. Ive also read it has a lot to do with water hardness and PH as well. A lower ph with softer water will cause the zinc to breakdown as it protects the tub from rust. 2 main options seem to be a pond liner or using an epoxy to seal the tank. I wanted to set this up and monitor for a couple of weeks before adding guppies. I honestly don’t want to use epoxy because of the expense and work involved but a pond liner might pose its own problems as well with trapping moisture between the liner and tub. Some say it will also cook the fish come hot summer months. I don’t think this is as much of a concern as so many think but we’ll see? Anybody know for sure galvanized gets hotter than the black plastic ones? Here’s my set up so far. I probably only need this to last 2-3 years at most before I do something more permanent.
  10. I was wondering if it's possible to crush 'crushed coral' into a powder to increase surface area when trying to raise KH? I've had crushed coral in my tanks for a bit now and I can't seem to get my KH higher than a 2. Has anyone tried to do this before and if so, what was the result? Also I assume that the dosing would be much smaller? I'd love to hear your thoughts on this, -BisScottie
  11. Someone please help lol. I have the api master test kit and a gh and kh test. All liquid solutions. I’m trying to figure out what’s going on with my well water. Currently, out of the faucet my tests show ph- around 9, when I test gh, I put 2 drops in and it immediately goes green. Never shows orange. And for kh it only shows blue. I can put 30 drops in and it never changes to yellow. All the bottles say they still have 4 years before they expire. I don’t understand my results or if api is just junk?
  12. If you’ve been following my struggles to re-cycle a tank that I crashed, I’d love a little more input. Is it looking cycled? It’s been a little over two weeks. Everything looks good expect for the Nitates. I’m thinking a small water change, and then adding my betta back to his big tank? He’s been in a one gallon holding tank until I felt it was safe for him to go back. I tested ammonia twice, and then nitrites and Nitrates. I appreciate any and all thoughts! I don’t want to be too eager to get him back in his tank, and do so before it’s 100% safe.
  13. I know I know, Cory has done a video on this. But I am a numbers and charts person, so I wanted to offer some more data on this topic. I have a background in chemistry and I know a lot of you NERMS on here like this sort of detailed analysis, so here it goes. Once I saw the video, I thought it was genius! Of course! If you are in the ballpark, much better to use those quick test strips (which you will use more often than the liquid kit because they are so easy. As a reminder, you can see Cory's video here: Because I thought this was great info, I went out and bought some test strips to compliment my API test kit. Of course, like any info on the internet, I also wanted to test it. I did a quick test a few weeks ago and got very different results. Whoa! That's weird, and not what Cory's video showed! So today I sat down and did some more precise testing/recording numbers. For this experiment, we have to accept that the human eye just sucks at interpreting color accurately. If we wanted to get super precise numbers, we would want something like a spectrometer, but that's not financially realistic for the average person. (Doesn't mean I'm not looking 'em up on ebay after this...) I have two different tanks I tested this on, but only once each time. One is a planted 60 gallon community tank and the other is a 10 gallon snail tank. I try to keep the gH higher in the snail tank for shell health, so that measurement is particularly important. Both tanks are moderately/heavily planted. The snail tank is overstocked, but I'm pretty diligent about water changes. The Community tank is a little understocked, and please note that I administered some General Cure today to deworm, so that could potentially interfere with results. When I did the test, I had to break my bad habit of not shaking the API test kit for a full minute. You can categorize this under "I am smarter than the sum knowledge of all fishkeepers." arrogance. Surely, not shaking for a full minute couldn't make that big a difference, right? Well, I can get into my previous quick and dirty results, but yes, you need to shake for the full minute. I got very different nitrate results when doing this. Anyway, you can't test the API kit if you aren't going to use it according to the instructions. Please note that I DID NOT USE THE API TEST KIT FOR pH. I have a pH meter which I consider to be the most accurate option available, therefore I compared the test strip to the API kit on nitrate, nitrite, gH and kH. You can see the results below in chart and list form: OK, so what are we seeing? Well first we're seeing that my nitrate levels in my tank are WAY high and I need to fix it, but that's for another day. Within the community tank, everything is pretty much the same between Tetra and API. This is consistent with Cory's results. Now if we look at the Snail tank, we see some variation. Ph and nitrite are looking the same, but gH, kH, and most concerningly nitrate are showing differences. The difference in nitrate could be because of the logarithmic scale it uses to refer to color. Ever notice how the measurement chart jumps from 0, to 5, to 10, then 20, then 40, etc? It's a bigger and bigger difference with each color change on the chart. So if you have a very high concentration that you are reading, and you're having trouble reading it, your mistake matters more than if you were reading something closer to 5. (Ex. Is it 5 or 10? Eh, it's close. Is it 40 or 80? Whoa, big difference!) I did have trouble figuring out the color of the nitrate on the API test kit; I have included pictures of the results here so that others can give input, if you like. Please note that because I thought the API nitrate reading was between 40 and 80 ppm, I split the difference and called it 60ppm. I have no explanation for the difference in KH and GH readings. API results for Snail tank: Tetra test strip Snail tank results: OK so what does all of this mean? I think it means that if your tank is generally healthy and you are just doing regular water checks (once a week, once a month, etc) and you want a heads up on anything that might be an issue, you're probably ok using the Tetra test strips. But if you are having issues with something, you may want to try the API kit. BUT, I would argue that we don't really know which method is more accurate. Within the fish community, we sing the praises of the accuracy of the API Master test kit. But why? What are we comparing it to? Well, we have reports of the test strips going bad very easily, so that's one reason. But ideally, I would want to measure my water parameters with a mass spectrometer (this is me being a super nerd- it is a scientific instrument which gives you VERY accurate reports of concentration. Again, not realistic for the home hobbyist at all! But has anyone every tried it? Ever? Anywhere? I expect API did the testing, but those aren't exactly easy to look up. Why do we choose API as the best? I think it's worth considering. Tl;dr The API Master test kit has fairly similar results to the Tetra strips if you are measuring low concentrations (everything in your tank is going as expected,) but there can be major differences if you have something like nitrates very high. This is because it's tough for the human eye to read colors accurately. I have no explanation for the differences in kH and gH in one tank but not the other. Also, consider that we don't necessarily know that the API Master kit is the most accurate. Everyone says it is, but what are we comparing it to? Thanks for coming to my TED talk. lol I don't work as a chemist anymore so sometimes it's just nice to get this out of my system. I hope some folks find this helpful/interesting.
  14. Hello everyone! I really want to get some Apistogrammas for a 20 gallon long that I am setting up. The only thing is, I’m not sure if my water will work for them? These are my parameters ph7.0 kh 8 gh 11 Can they live in this water? Will they thrive? Do you have any advice for a newbie for this fish? Also can rummynose tetras and corys live with them? Thanks for your help!
  15. I'm adding rams to my 50g but both of my LFS have run into issues with getting Bolivian rams from their wholesaler (I'm unsure if they use the same or different wholesalers) but both have always had German blues in stock. I've kept Bolivians with angels before several years ago and had zero issues. Both stores said I should be able to keep the Germans with angels instead but I'm concerned about temp in the tank since I had the impression that they prefer much higher temperatures à la Discus? My ambient water temperature (no heater) is 80 degrees. During the cooler months I keep it at about 78. I don't want to chase one specific number but I'm unsure what's a realistic range that they'll tolerate and I should prepare for in the event I'm still unable to find a Bolivian locally in a few months. Thanks for the advice, this is my first "real" tank in 5 years. Tank mates: 2 angelfish (nickel size), 2 bristlenose plecos (3-4"), 1 bristlenose pleco (under 1", though it's staying in its grow-out tank for awhile longer)
  16. Lost a adolescent male in my guppy breeding tank. I’m unsure what could have happened. He was apparently fine last night and dead this morning. I included a picture of the fish in case someone can spot something I can’t such as bacterial sores. Tank parameters are as follows: Temperature - 78.5 F pH - 7.4 Ammonia - 0 ppm Nitrite - 0 ppm Nitrate - 20 ppm gH - 8 dgh kH - 3 dkh TDS - 1,500 ppm If people have any thoughts on what I should do to avoid further loses I would really appreciate hearing them.
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