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  1. Hi. Here is our quarantine tank water parameter for the pair of purple mosaic guppy plus their fry. pH 7.4-7.6 Nitrates 10 Hardness 5 Nitrite 0 Ammonia 0 KH/Buffer 7 Water Temperature 78F 2 weeks ago, I got a pair of purple mosaic guppy (they birthed fry in the shipping bag so the pair live in the tank with fry. All of them are in quarantine tank and pre treating the fish right now. I wanted to ask about gill of female looks ok or not, I posted the picture of her side shot (below) on face book page group along with video. I was mainly curious about her gill being normal or not (to me it looks like bit of dent in the gill.. I could not take best picture of the world but..) but someone said she looks like having columnaris pointing that she had white looking patch on her back (which I circled in the below picture;the spot she pointed out). BUT, to me, it is just reflecting to the tank light and I do not see white area without light like this;look picture below. This is the picture from the top with sun light. If it were white patch color would stay white, not bluish color... Me and seller think the area that was pointed was the area lights reflect and purplish bluish grayish color looks like bit of white if you try to see it as white under tank light.I do not find fuzzy stuff on her or any strange behavior like loss of appetite or part herself away from other guppy etc. She swim strong, active, eats enthusiastically and it has been 2 weeks. If it were columnaris, then, fish goes passes very quick I heard. She never look lethargic at all... All of her tank mates;male guppy and fry looks ok too. What is your opinion on her? Does she look like columnari fish? What about gill? Her gill looks ok to you? Other than gill that got me wondering if normal or not, I feel like she is fine to me.Poop is fine too.Nice solid one.. The person who said she might had columnaris never replies back after I posted these pictures ( I was told to put out pictures more so I did) , and there are no followed comments still.. (it has been almost 2 weeks so I doubt she would leave follow up comments..) and I was kind of left out with wonder/doubts if she really got columnaris or not. Since it is deadly disease, it bothers me a lot. Thank you.
  2. I have diagnosed what I believe to be an ongoing columnaris infection in a guppy tank. I have looked into treatment options and am considering both aquarium salt and Triple-sulfa. I also have the quarantine trio in stock but I could order other medications if appropriate. I have a 10 gallon quarantine tank I can move symptomatic fish to or I can leave some or all of the guppies in their 29 gallon planted tank. Does anyone else have experience dealing with this disease? If so, what was your experience and how did you treat it? Water parameters: Temperature - 76.4 degreesTDS - 384 ppmPH - 7.4GH - 14dgkKH - 4dkhAmmonia - 0ppmNitrite - 0ppmNitrate - 40ppm
  3. I think I'm dealing with columnaris. As i live in Canada meds aren't an option. I have put 1Tbsp per 3 gallons of salt so far. I have only had it for 3 days so far but it seems to be spreading. another platy has white patch and seen guppies and a Synodontis Lucipinnis( some one really has to come up with a easier name for these) rubbing them self's against the substrate, this isn't happening very often maybe notice it once a day. All fish are active and eating well. I was wondering how long should i let it go before increasing the salt and is it even safe to do so with the Synodontis Lucipinnis, albino corys and snails to go to 2 Tbsp per fish. and if i do increase the salt could i move my plants to a different tank with out spreading it. I have Hornwort javafern and moneywort for plants. priorities are the Synodontis Lucipinnis since they cost about as much as the rest of my fish, then the rest of the fish and plants are dead last as they where only like 15 dollars so if its not 100% safe to move they are easy to replace.($10 to you guys) I am limited to Melafix, Pimafix , API® Liquid Super Ick Cure which from googling is not effective if its columnaris so salt seems to be the only option almost forgot water condition. I probably did have a ammonia spike as i removed half of my substrate then spread out the remainder this caused a lot of clouding once it settled i added a fine gravel substrate on top about 2 in thick. any ways when testing my water today Ph ~ 6.8 matching my tap water. ammonia > .2ppm Nitrite 0ppm and Nitrates ~ 40 ppm and tomorrow is my water change day was going to do 50% since missed last week and the nitrate lvl. any suggestions welcome and if the worst happens and i lose them all how should i clean the tank before restoking.
  4. Hi All - In March 2020 I found a local breeder who had an all black male plakat betta. About 5-6 days after getting him home, we noticed he had a white almost fungus-like patch forming on his back just in front of the dorsal fin. Having had some experience with this in the past, I was almost positive this was columnaris rather than a typical fungus and settled on the treatment that worked in the past: lowered the temperature of the tank to about 75F and treated with Maracyn 1 & 2. That did not work; in fact, the white patch grew a tiny bit. After letting him hang out (to rest his organs from the meds) for a week, I decided to try Furan-2 and Kanaplex. No change after the first course, so I ran the treatment again and again saw no change. Since it was now over a month since we noticed the patch, I figured he would be fine for another week or two to recover from all the medicine. I raised the temp back up to 79F and just went about my standard weekly maintenance for 3 weeks. At the end of 3 weeks, the white fuzzy patch in front of his dorsal fin had not grown, but I noticed a tiny new spot forming on his side. With no ideas left, I did the Co-op med trio. Since then there's been no change and I've sort of given up trying to treat this. It's been 7.5, almost 8, months and he is otherwise a very happy betta. His tank is well planted, he eats well, makes his bubble nests, and otherwise doesn't seem to be having any issues. I reached out to the breeder over the summer to see if they've had any columnaris or fungus issues and he hasn't so if it came with the fish it was latent. At this point I am just looking for ideas and suggestions. It took a really long time to find a locally bred, all black plakat and it was a gift for my girlfriend so I'd like to see the little guy live a long and happy life. We tested the water immediately upon noticing the white fuzz patch and have been testing weekly since then: ph: 6.8-7.0 gh: 7 kh: 4 ammonia: 0 nitrite: 0 nitrate: 10-20 Tank size: 5 gallons; water change of 2 gallons per week
  5. pH 6.8 ammonia 0 nitrate and nitrite 0 TDS 120 kh 2 gh 4 temp 78 light period finnex 24/7 setting with an additional marine land led currently off during treatment. One of my bronze corys has struggled last few months. I think he got into It with a female beta over a sinking wafer. Since that time I have dosed the tank with salt to allow his wounds and fins to heal and he was looking better. Then about 3 months into this tank I introduced some panda corys after a 3 week quarantine (from Aqua Huna). One died within an hour of placing in the Quarantine tank, another died a day later but the other 4 started to eat and looked good, small 3/8”-1/2”. Fast forward 3 months and suddenly another panda Cory dies, a female betta dies and a flame tetra on consecutive days. I discovered my heater had died and temp dropped from 78 to 68 and the heaters replaced and working properly. A couple fish were looking listless - my female apisto and the bronze Cory. I treated the whole tank with the medication trio and within days the Cory and a female Apistogramma cacutoides broke out in white blotches - I’ve attached a pic of this Cory white on his nose, sides and back and the apisto on her lips, eyelid and along the dorsal into the side scale. Not fuzzy and sticking out like ich it was right along the Skin of the The fish. I waited 5 days After Med trio and am now on day 4 of another 5 days of Maracyn Along with fritz aquarium salt 2 teaspoons twice daily. I’ve placed an extra air stone in the tank and my hydor korralia mini goes off 4 times a day for 30 minutes to move waste to the Eheim 2217 intake. I also have a Ziss bubbler on there. Am I on the right track? Would you do anything differently? @Cory
  6. hello all, i am currently trying to treat my betta for columnaris, he has the chronic strain. I started out with seachem sulfaplex but that didn't help. I am now trying to treat with amoxicillin, he has had 4 doages of this but it is not seeming to help him at all and he is getting worse. The only other things I have to try and treat are Api triple sulfa Maracyn 1 and 2 and Api fin qnd body cure I am in the uk so can't get anything else quickly for him. He is in a 30 litre planted, filtered and heated tank. His temp is at 26 degrees i have not lowered or increased it as scared too. My ph is 7.4, GH 8, KH is 4. Normally I have no amonia or nitrate and keep nitrates at around 20. The amoxicillin is killing the bacteria in the tank so daily 10 litre water changes along with using prime to lock the amonia. Billy my betta is only 1 year old, I bought him from a UK breeder. He has always been healthy and I'm heart broken to see him like this. Anything at all that anyone can advise me to do would be so much appreciated and welcomed.
  7. Hello all, I'm currently on the back half of a Columnaris outbreak in my display tank. The tank is a 75 gallon planted with lots of crypts, swords, anubias, bucephelandra, and java fern. The tank is only a few months old. I recently moved cities, and had consolidated three smaller tanks worth of fish and plants into the one tank. I had all the fish for between 6 months and 2 years with no major disease issues previously. However, in hindsight, I'd lose the occasional fish with Columnaris-like sypmtoms before the move, but the cases were isolated and only happened once in a while. In the new setup, I wasn't as good at testing water as I should have been, and although the filter could process ammonia properly, I let the nitrates build up faster than my water change schedule and plants could handle. Therefore, my fish were exposed to 80+ppm nitrates for a prolonged period of time, and I believe this and the stress of the move and new municipal water combined caused a lapse in their immune systems and left an opening for the disease to take hold. I started treating with Erythromycin in the water column once I noticed my platies had white lips and my pearl danios had grey splotches. I soon had mass die-off of my corydoras after I started treating. Within two weeks, my 17-strong school was down to 2, as well as a couple of lost platies, ember tetras, and danios. I stopped the Erythromycin after 10 days of treatment. I haven't been sure what to do next. The die-off has slowed down to about 1 fish per week. I'm thinking about taking all the fish out and putting them in quarantine tanks treating them with salt or whatever med works better. A 75 is expensive to treat, and most of my favorite fish have passed. I don't want to go nuclear on the 75 since I have a significant investment of time and money in the plants. I'm wondering if letting the tank sit for a month or two without fish would be enough for the virulent strain of Columnaris to die out and be safe for new fish. I'm looking for people's input on handling Columnaris, as well as how to handle a diseased tank with loads of plants. And I hope people take away that testing nitrates is important, especially in a newer tank, even if you're an experienced hobbyist. My own research has indicated that Columnaris lives in almost all aquatic environments, and it's a matter of how virulent the strain can become and how well a fish can fight it off. It can kill rapidly or slowly. My corydoras are probably a good example of the the rapid death, where the bacteria latches onto the gill tissue and inhibits a fish's ability to breathe. The slower death comes about in many ways, and I don't have as good of an understanding of that.
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