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Mmiller2001

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Everything posted by Mmiller2001

  1. Mmiller2001
    Some meds temporary change the viscosity of the water. No need to worry. This is normal and will clear soon or on the next water change.
  2. Mmiller2001
    You can start with red, green and white all at the same intensity. You can drop blue all together or try 10%. Observe for 2 weeks and adjust. I make it a bit more red on ramp up and down. At peak, I'm 70% red, white and green.
  3. Mmiller2001
    Any light will grow plants. It's best to pick your plants first, research them, discover their needs and budget a light around those needs. Very expensive and very cheap lights can achieve the same results. To get overly involved, substrate and nutrient regiment are as important as lighting. CO² also changes things a bit. I highly recommend this vlog. It's a great intro to CO² and planted tanks. https://www.2hraquarist.com/
  4. Mmiller2001
    I'm on my 5th bag!
  5. Mmiller2001
    I have to be that guy. Sorry. Buy dry fertilizers, dose Estimated Index, never guess about deficiencies, and really never have to test. Save money.
  6. Mmiller2001
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ5GXSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_85HFM1P343B0YV2R35BM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Best sand I've found. Was clearing green water a few months ago, but this sand grew this jungle.
  7. Mmiller2001
    It's a virus with no cure. Save your money.
  8. Mmiller2001
    Low tech tanks will have about 3 to 4ppm CO². And these ppm are mostly consistent. The truth, high tech tanks absolutely want excellent surface agitation. High gass exchange is vital in maintaining stable CO² levels. This is an easy read article about CO² and Gass exchange. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/choosing-co2-why/how-to-push-the-limits-of-co2-safely
  9. Mmiller2001
    It's DGD, he's going to die unfortunately. Looks like little pen head size blood spot and swelling. All dwarf gourami have it. It's not your fault.
  10. Mmiller2001
    Add Calcium and Magnesium in a 2:1 ratio to increase GH. Add Potassium Carbonate to increase KH. Inject CO² to lower pH.
  11. Mmiller2001
    C0²Art is a solid option on a budget. Fzone sells some for cheaper, but I can't speak for quality. That said, reviews are pretty positive on them.
  12. Mmiller2001
    Time to invest into reverse osmosis. Check out Bulk Reef Supply.
  13. Mmiller2001
    I have your exact same problem. So I run a 2 hour 4% intensity red only cycle before and after a 1 hour ramp up/down. Seems to be working well and no algae so far. But time will tell.
  14. Mmiller2001
  15. Mmiller2001
    My strategy is always to maintain a fishes natural habitat. A few generations of tank breeding does not reverse thousands of years of evolution. There's a difference between surviving and thriving. If you are worried, research your fishes natural habitat and emulate those parameters. PH swings do not harm fish, osmotic swings harm fish. My pH swings form 7.3 to 6.1 twice a day. Massive pH shifts occur in nature daily, but mineral shift is pretty consistent, so we can expect the same instances to occur in our tanks to no ill affect. Target your optimal GH, KH and your fish will thrive.
  16. Mmiller2001
    If they are flashing, rubbing sides on something, with no outward signs like white dots, then it's flukes.
  17. Mmiller2001
    You can. Some recommend to hold off for a few days. I feed frozen daphnia while treating.
  18. Mmiller2001
    You could use GH boosters, they can be added directly to the tank. GLA and Nilocg are good companies. They contain Ca, Mg and some K. I like potassium carbonate for KH, won't affect GH and super cheap on Amazon. https://greenleafaquariums.com/products/the-ultimate-gh-booster-1lb-bag.html https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BPUTXGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_WS6PJ1FXNWB4FJ0624E7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Then use this calculator for dosing. https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php You could front load your minerals on water change day.
  19. Mmiller2001
    Malaysian trumpet snails.
  20. Mmiller2001
    Metro can work. But for internal parasites, it needs to be administered in food.
  21. Mmiller2001
    Do you have Seachem Focus?
  22. Mmiller2001
    Well, I've read siesta periods can cause problems. One trigger for BBA is fluctuating CO2. When your light is on, plants consume the available CO2, then the light go off, they release CO2. So the thinking is siesta periods are triggers for algae. If you can, shoot for a straight photo period. Shoot for 12 hours. If algae grows, drop light intensity. If it still grows, either drop intensity again or drop an hour on the photoperiod. Just make sure your changes keep the plants healthy.
  23. Mmiller2001
    I would find a good all in one fertilizer. Healthy growing plants is your best defense against algae. To kill it off, you can dose Seachem Flourish Excel. It wipes BBA out. And dosing should get your plants back in shape.
  24. Mmiller2001
    If they are scratching and no external signs show, it's flukes. Classic 1 flashes, then another and so on. Just make sure to follow up with another round of meds. 2 to 3 weeks after your first round ends. If they don't stop flashing, hit them with PraziPro.
  25. Mmiller2001
    Are you currently dosing a fertilizer. What's your light schedule?
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