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  1. I've been treating my fish with Ich-X as part of the Aquarium Coop quarantine recommendations and for a recent ich outbreak. But just now I read that Ich-X should not be used with sulfur-containing water conditioners. from HIkari website: https://www.hikariusa.com/water_quality_folder/ich_x.html (under Directions) "NOTE: We do not recommend using any sulfur or sulfinite-based water conditioners with this product. If your normal water conditioner does not list the ingredients please verify with the maker that it does not contain these ingredients. If you notice any rotten egg smell to the product, it likely does have these ingredients and should be avoided as it could cause the product to be less effective and the dissolved oxygen levels to be negatively impacted." from Fritz website: https://fritzaquatics.com/products/fritz-complete (under FAQ's) "Can I use this with Aquarium Solutions Ich-X? Fritz Complete - NOT SAFE; this is a sulfoxylate-based conditioner and can affect the medication" Yikes! I've been struggling with ich on my shubunkin for a couple months and I've been using Fritz Complete for longer than that. Does anyone else have any info on using Ich-X with Fritz Complete? Or alternatives that don't have sulfur?
  2. I was able to diagnose my Betta, Linus, yesterday morning with velvet. The gold dust is unmistakable, but I have not been able to get a picture that shows it. His current water parameters are same as normal: pH 7.2 Nitrates 10 Hardness 200 Nitrite 0 KH/Buffer 120 Water Temperature 82-83 (as of yesterday, I turned the heat up to help kill the velvet, the tank is normally between 80-82) He has a 10 gallon tank with live plants and 2 small sponge filters with air stones. I do not have a quarantine tank, but he is the only fish in the tank. I started treating him yesterday morning with Ich-X, as I had it on hand and it says it works for velvet. Unfortunately, all the instructions on using it are aimed at treating ich. I have been following the instructions so far, treating the tank yesterday morning, and again this morning after doing a 30% water change. I know the instructions say to use for 3 days, but other info from Aquarium Co-Op that I’ve seen says to treat with Ich-X until it works (for ich)(but not more than 5 days if there’s no change) and then for 3 days after to make sure the ich is dead. Does the same apply for velvet??? I have also covered the aquarium with a thick bath towel, as from what I’ve read, velvet needs light to grow and live. Aquarium salt was another option to help, and though I’m not doing the velvet dosing quantity, I did add the appropriate amount for the water I was adding back in the tank this morning (a little over 1tsp for 2.5 gallons)(I don’t want to use a ton, as I don’t want to kill my plants) Appearance wise, I haven’t seen any change as to Linus’s velvet. His fins are not fully clamped any more, so that’s a little promising. Yesterday morning I noticed that his blue eyes have changed. The blue is not as intense, almost watered down and the interior rims of both eyes have turned copper. No changes there as of this morning. But behavior wise, he is doing better. He ate before I started dosing the tank, though he has not eaten since (I’ve tried to feed him twice). He is not as lethargic or disinterested. He was swimming around when I was changing his water, slower than normal but interested in what was going on. His swimming was also much smoother and normal, as before I started dosing the tank yesterday morning, his swimming was jerky, like he was having spasms. Any suggestions for continuing treatment would be helpful, especially on how to use Ich-X for velvet 😊 Thank you!
  3. Hello all. Using Ich X during quarantine period but need a water conditioner for changes due to chloramine in the tap. I have used Prime during my time in the hobby but have heard it can reduce the medicinal effects of Ich X. Thoughts or advise would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
  4. I have several tanks with ich like symptoms right now. I’ve been using ich-x to treat them and I have been following the treatment exactly. But they’re doesn’t seem to be any improvement. tank one: the neons in the pictures. Been treating for a week so far. Temp is at 78. No improvement. The dots are raised. Tank 2: my quarantine tank. The guppy pictures. Couldn’t get him to ever hold still so I can’t tell what it is aside from white dots. Been treating about 5 days with the disease only spreading more. Temp 77. tank 3: main tank with the female swordtail. Been treating 2-3 days but what started with one fish has now spread to several with no improvement. Temp at 81 I don’t know what to do. Things are only getting worse and not better update 2/20: the ich is still ongoing, the neons definitely had epistylis but the others were ich. still been using ich x and nothing has improved. some spots will go away and them more appear later on more fish. the spots are only on the fins. ive been feeding them food soaked in kanaplex throughout this but nothing is helping
  5. First noticed ich on Wednesday AM. Got new fish Sunday and Sunday afternoon did med trio. Then Wednesday AM saw ich only on the rummy nose tetras. Did partial water change after work and redosed Ich-X. Looked worse in the morning, did another change and another dose. Looked better after work on Thursday. Changed water and redosed. Now it's spread to other fish. Everyone is eating OK and I think med trio cleared some worms out of a couple of cardinal tetras that were pretty thin, they seem to be gaining a little weight. Been changing water and dosing Ich-X about every 12 hours since Wednesday afternoon. And it's not clearing up. Rummy nose look worse again today than last night. I know it's only 'killable' in the free-swimming stage... I bumped the temp up a couple of degrees (was at 76 got it to 78 now). If no difference in the AM, I might bump it to 80 when I redose. One thing I've noticed is that the blue color in the water is darn near gone within... half an hour? It's not there for long at all. Maybe that's normal. I've never used Ich-X and I haven't treated ich in probably two decades. Pic is best I could get on one of the rummy nose. Water Parameters: pH - my tap water comes out of the tap at 7 and ages to 8.2, this tank has Fluval Stratum which seems to drop pH to about 6.5. I change water straight out of the tap. Nitrates - tons of plants also in quarantine, nitrates are rock bottom... MAYBE "5" on the test strip this morning. Hardness - 18 degrees/320 ppm Nitrite - 0 Ammonia - 0 KH/Buffer - 16 degrees/285 ppm Water Temperature - 76 before this afternoon, now increased to 78 Thanks!
  6. 10G Betta tank with suspected columnaris. Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think about the diagnosis! Onset: 6 days ago, white patch behind his head suddenly appeared. Hasn’t seemed to get worse or better. He is more lethargic than normal, but is still eating and occasionally swimming around the tank (not just up for air). Fin rot seems slightly better now but is still severe compared to what he had before this started. Current treatment: water change and gravel vac immediately and again yesterday; darkness in the tank for four days and now limited lighting, Ich-X (5mL), and Maracyn (1 packet). Left the Ich-X and Maracyn to sit for three days, did a 30% water change and re-treated with both yesterday. (Yes, I did a water change but wasted a couple days trying to figure out what it was before medicating!) Thinking of treating with kanaplex, but have qualms because it’s a heavily planted tank, with a nerite and otos in it that might also suffer or die. Thoughts? This is following a bout of BGA from lack of nutrients, and fin rot from the nasty BGA tank conditions until I got it figured out, killed, and now mostly cleaned up (there’s probably a random dead piece in the gravel). Previous fin rot and BGA were treated with two rounds of maracyn two weeks apart, one round of Paracleanse, big water changes and plant prunings, and more consistent ferts. Tank is recovering and looking much better, but betta’s fin rot is worse again and now he has a big white-tinged patch. He does have the marble gene, and he is just over a year old (he’s been with me a year and was a medium-sized juvie when I bought him). This appeared very suddenly about 6 days ago, more than a week after the last rasbora death. After researching, I found that kanaplex was probably my best bet, but I don’t want to lose my corkscrew vals or my other plants, or my otos, or my nerite, and seachem says it is hard on inverts and plants and some scaleless fish. On other forums, people say most of their nerites survived, and all their plants survived, but they didn’t have vals (which can be more sensitive). Nobody said anything about otos. Parameters: pH: 7.8 Ammonia: 0 Nitrites: 0 Nitrates: 10 Temp: 79.5F KH was high last time I checked it, but I haven’t checked it in a while because it remained steady for a long time and I do regular water changes with tap water and it is fairly hard tap water. I always have to double-dose my Prime because of the chloramines present in my tap water. Other tank inhabitants: 3 otos, one zebra nerite, 2 emerald-eye rasboras (2/4 rasboras died suddenly after I added the otos two weeks ago; no symptoms…betta may have reacted to more stock being added to his happy equilibrium and killed them…or maybe columnaris killed them due to their own stress after the otos). If this was columnaris, wouldn’t the betta most likely be dead already? Or noticeably worse? Wouldn’t the other rasboras or the otos be showing signs of it too? (They’re not, even though I know the rasboras are stressed from losing their school from the way they hang out with their reflections and zip around.)
  7. Is this ich on my betta fish? It just got out of quarantine and I premedicated with ich X so if it is I’m not sure what to do
  8. Is the quarantine medication trio (Fritz paracleanse, Mardel Maracyn, and Ich-x) safe for beneficial bacteria and plants? I’m mostly worried about the Mardel Maracyn because many have said it does harm beneficial bacteria as it’s active ingredient erythromycin can attack nitrifying bacteria. Some say it only affects beneficial bacteria in newer tanks which I may fall into that category as my tank just finished cycling. I figured I could use the medication trio in my cycled, planted tank for my betta fish as it will be the first fish introduced to the tank but how is that possible if Mardel Maracyn affects beneficial bacteria? I really wouldn’t want to have to fish - in - cycle if the maracyn were to kill the beneficial bacteria with the betta fish in the tank. Thanks 🙂
  9. I oder ich-x from CO - OP for my rasboras because they have ich from PESTMART didnt see it at store and they were look fine, till 2 days ago and i already had 3 died. does anyone know is If I can use it for a 5.5 gallon tank I'm trying to find how to calculate because it's the concentrated one and only has dose for 50 gallons only. I cant figure out how to do the math. so im stuck I would appreciate any direction or instructions thank you in advance HELP!!!!!!
  10. Just throwing this out there to hear everyone's thoughts. Instead of using meth blue on rainbow eggs I have been using ich-x with success. I was wondering if I'm just getting lucky or if it is a viable replacement? I know the active ingredient is malachite green but its effects are supposed to be similar. What are your thoughts?
  11. Hello community, my name is Blake I'm new here. I have a question, I need to treat my betta for ich, I have purchased ICH X from aquarium co-op and I have it in my possession. The thing is, I only have one tank right now, I have another tank for a quarantine but it is not set up and I need to treat soon. What I need to know is if this will stain my tank for real or not. I have a glass tank with silicone sealing and clear tubing. I need to know if this will stain my tank so I can treat my main tank ASAP. If not, is there a way to quickly set up a quarantine tank that I'm not aware of?? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance to all who answer!
  12. Hello, I’ve noticed my Platies rubbing a lot on some of the plants in my Aquarium but there are no visible signs of Ich on them. Ammonia, Nitrites & Nitrates are all at 0. Temp 77 degrees and PH 7.0
  13. So, one of my tanks (classic guppies/snails/shrimp tank) had some clear parasite issues so I medicated it with paracleanse according to Aquarium Coop's directions and that is going very well. However I decided to medicate another tank I have because I have been using the same nets back and forth and some of the mollies there had clamped fins and another fish there had recently got half her tail bitten off so I figured the antibacterial and anti fungal wouldn't hurt so I hit it with the full classic trio, Marycin, ich-x and paracleanse. The morning after, the tank is super cloudy, fish gasping for air and my salvini male starts showing some extreme dying behaviour (sinking to the bottom, smashing into the substrate and decor, floating upside down, etc...). So I did a 80% waterchange and added an airstone but meanwhile the salvini male died. Has anyone had a similar experience with those meds? I think they might have maybe killed a lot of beneficial bacteria and/or depleted the water of oxygen.
  14. so I think my tetras have ich, it is only on their fins. how can I slow it down while I wait for the med trio from aquarium co op? I can't add salt because it is a planted tank. will dropping the temp a little help? and I can't move the fish to a qt tank for 2 reasons; too hard to catch them because I have a lot of plants, and the qt tank has a breeding pair of kribs with fry. thanks for the help.
  15. I have three wild caught king tiger pleco’s that had a rough start/introduction to the tank, all three are covered in white spots that showed up overnight. It didn’t progress from a few white spots like it normally does so I’m not sure what I’m facing. Ich X is not working, I’ve been following Cory’s normal routine of water changing 20-30% every day and then redosing 5 ml per 10 gall. I did one dose of the med trio this last Monday as well. They are all “swimming in place” pretty constantly which I assume is also a reflection of their discomfort. do I need to increase the dosage on the Ich X? temp- 82° gH - 7 kh - 4 ph - 7.2
  16. I was doing some research on the Fritz ACCR product and was reading thru their FAQ when I cam across something that I do not understand. The question was can you use Fritz ACCR with Aquarium Solutions Ich-X and the following was the answer ...which said not safe...so Im glad I checked. But what took me by surprise is it said that Fritz Complete is not safe either and that is the product I currently use. @Cory has said that Seachem Prime and Fritz Complete are basically the same product so I gather that prime is not safe either. So what dechlor is safe? If its not safe ...how does it work for using the 3 meds combo when it is possibly being affected by Fritz Complete? Just need some clarification. This is off the Fritz website: Can I use this with Aquarium Solutions Ich-X? Aquarium Solutions Ich-X contraindicates sulfinate- and sulfoxylate-based water conditioners with their product. Which Fritz water conditioners are safe? Fritz Guard - SAFE; this is a thiosulfate conditioner and won't affect the medication Fritz ACCR - NOT SAFE; this is a sulfinate-based conditioner and can affect the medication Fritz Complete - NOT SAFE; this is a sulfoxylate-based conditioner and can affect the medication
  17. I have a 5g QT set up. It's been running since November. I sometimes use it to house fry, treat a fish, but mostly it just grows out plants for me. So I purchased some ottos 48 hours ago. They looked okay, got home settled them in & the next morning at least 2 have spots on them. I have 4 ottos in my 29g & was just purchasing a few more to enlarge their school... My 29g looks pretty empty. I purchased Aquarium coops med TRIO so I have ICH-X on hand. The spots are white and mostly on fins, a few on body. I've had ICH before on mollies when I first started & did not know what it was or how to treat it, & it killed all my mollies years ago. I remember exhausting myself with WC, Salt, and herbal remedies petco gave me that didn't do anything. -How do I dose ICH-X in a 5g with scaleless fish? Should I use half doses? - I started by slowly increasing my salinity, right now it is at 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon. - My water conditioner is Prime, is it safe to use Prime, salt & ICH-X together? The only other additives are Easy Green liquid fertz & two Seachem root tabs. - lots of anubis & RRF plants Live in here. -No, my heater is not adjustable. Its a 100W aqueon 78° preset Parameters are: Nitrate: under 20ppm. Nitrite: 0. Ammonia 0ppm. Chlorine 0. PH: 7.4. GH: between100-150ppm (not degree) KH: 60ppm. Parameters have been the same & stable for a long while now.
  18. Hi, First time treating for Ich and following directions on bottle. I isolated the 2 fish to my Mcguvered isolation tank that were showing ich and have treated the rest of my 20 gallon now for two days. i see no signs in the tank and the ich has cleared up on the isolated fish with one of them dying/ The one that died I expected since I dropped him during transfer! The remaining looks good, no salt flakes also after 2 days. My understanding is that I should change a third of the water everyday and then readminister the ICH-X? That way you have fresh water and a new dose of ICH X. Am I on the right track? My nitrates have been running high but I do a weekly 25% change and gravel vac. My tank is I would say heavily planted. About 6 fish on cleanup and then about 10 fish on regular duty. Thank you ahead of time, Doug
  19. This morning, I medicated my fish using the quarantine trio. I did a water change and used fritz complete. I just read online that they can not be used together. I have a HOB, large sponge filter and an air stone in the 10G. This tank was been issues with nitrites and ammonia which has now resolved. I am using a seeded filter from my cycled 20G to insure my bacteria is maintained. I also dosed using Fritz zyme 7 yesterday as well. Do I need to do something? Water change??? should I be worried?
  20. Hello! I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with using the medicine IchX with a bamboo shrimp in a tank. I've already raised the temperature but I'd like to get the ich out of my tank as fast as I can. Thanks in advance!
  21. When treating Ick with Ich-X: 1) Are water changes absolutely necessary every day? If not, do you less the dose slightly when skipping a waterchange, to account for the previous days' dose that wont be removed? 2) Are gravel vacs necessary/recommended each waterchange? 3) Should aquarium lights remain off during Ick-X treatments? (Some live plants) 4) Can a daily waterchange actually crash a cycle? (Sponge filters) 5) How many days should Ich-X still be dosed AFTER there are no more white spots on any fish? Context: I am treating 2 tanks (75 gal and 20 gal ) for Ich, and have just completed day 5. Man...these waterchanges are a real pain, and are very time consuming. I have been gravel vaccing each day. I am no longer seeing any more Nitrates in the 20, and the 75 is down to about 5ppm. I have the temp to 81, and don't want to go higher. I do add around 1 TBSP salt for every 5-10 gallons. Any and all help is appreciated. I'd love to curb these waterchanges a bit, if I can.
  22. Need Ich x dosing advice. Newb fishkeeper here. Sorry for the long post. Adventures in ICH treatment! I have a 29 gallon, community tank and 10g Quarantine Tank. Water parameters, 0 amm, 0 nitrite, 5ppm nitrates, 15 gh, 8.0 ph. 5 Corydoras, 1 hillstream loach, 14 rummynose tetras (in Main tank), 4 cardinal tetras (in main tank), 2 dwarf gouramis (in QT), 1 golden wonder killifish (in QT). On friday, I saw that many of my fish had the ich. 2 cardinals and 7 rummy nose tetras had little white spots on their fins and head and gills. They werent covered but in spots sporadic throughout their bodies. I moved them into a 10g quarantine tank after an hour of chasing the sick ones down. THen I noticed 3 more tetras with spots in the main tank after moving the other sick ones. Screw it, i'll just treat both tanks, Saturday, I did a 30% water change with vaccuuming for both tanks and used Ich-X in the afternoon and several hours later half the sick tetras had half or most of their spots disappeared! By Sunday afternoon all but 2 fish had zero spots. Since I had corys in the main tank i decided to move the recovering tetras and QT fish (2 gouramis, 1 killifish) from the QT and moved them into the main tank to raise its temp to mid 80s with salt treatment. I WC the QT at 80% and moved the cories into it (i was worried about high temps and salt affecting them). By the evening, after a 30% water change and gravel vaccuum in the main, I dosed again. two hours passed and 4 of my rummynose tetras died (spiral of death, they all drifted with the tank current and they were gasping bodies pointed upwards). I did an emergency water change at 75%. Water de-chlorinated, bottom vacced (second time that day too). Fish are stressed but no death spirals. Threw in some stress guard and stability for good measure. Today this morning, i found a cardinal tetra with a visible white fuzz near its dorsal and its fins were fringed but still swimming around ok but lethargic. Moved him into QT and threw a dose of paraguard after move. No signs of ick on the surviving tetras nor lazy swimming. Basically. I dont know what i should do as far as the ick treatment. Should I keep dosing but at half strength for another 1 to 3 days? Current situation, QT has all my corys and a cardinal with fungal fuzz and fin wear. WHile Main tank has all the fish with no more white ick spots. What an adventure. How should i proceed from here to kill off water column and substrate ich? Lower the Dosage?
  23. pH - 7.6 Nitrates - 0ppm Hardness - 8dH Nitrite - 0ppm Ammonia - 0ppm KH/Buffer - 9ppm Water Temperature 74F Came back to the outbreak on my SAPS. Read through a post where another keeper is having a similar issue. Browsing through the link provided comparing ich to epistylis it does appear as though the white dots are raised off of the fish rather then being flat. They were wormed when I got them a little over a month ago. They are still rather active, are not clamping their fins much, but do not seem to have a lot of appetite based on what I see in the tank. Looking for opinions on if I should treat for ich or epistylis. Also, we have some otocinclus with them in the tank, added less then two weeks ago and they show no sign of this yet.
  24. I recently started using easy green in a newer tank(month old with already established ehiem classic canister filter), nitrates jumped up too high and I didn't notice in time. This is my first planted tank. Don't get me wrong, in no way am I saying it's easy green's fault. Anyways end result turned into ich(most likey) or possibly stress ich. I did add several fish around the initial e/g dose. So here's what I'm getting at. I treated the tank for several days using ich x and was using prime as my standard conditioner. After doing some more research though I decided that prime was most likely somewhat neutralizing the meds so I switched over to Hikari ultimate instead and dosed the tank with the meds and new conditioner for 3 additional days. Looks like the ich is gone now. The main question I have is about when to start using easy green again after the ich treatments. I'm assuming from what I've read that ferts and meds don't mix, atleast for not increasing nitrates at times of stress/ disease. I choose to not dose ferts while dosing ich meds, was this the right decision? I've learned that everyone has different opinions on everything in the aquarium hobby and that you need to do your research. I've also decided that you need to narrow down the people you are taking your advice from to keep things consistent and Cory from aquarium coop is my top choice at this point. Hey so that was a compliment lol Thanks Ryan
  25. Is it ok to use fritz ParaCleanse, API E.M Erythromycin, and aquarium solutions ich-x all at once for a complete treatment?
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