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  1. I'm trying to grow pothos out the top of my aquariums. will this setup work. also what bulbs should I be using to get good growth i black out the room to prevent excess algae from natural sunlight. I am not great with plants and any help would be appreciated.
  2. Thought I'd compare the Fluval 3.0 24 inch with my NICREW Plus LED. First pic is the Fluval on with all settings at 100%; second pic is the NICREW. Fluval seems brighter up top and with richer colors--however, as it's a 24 inch, it doesn't quite illuminate the 'sides' as well as the NICREW, which runs the full length of the tank. (a 29 gallon), leaving them looking a bit darker in-person. The next size up would obviously be far too wide for the tank. Thoughts?
  3. The Fluval Plant 3.0 lights are really nice, especially for the scheduling and light-level programming available thru the FluvalSmart app. I have ten of the Plant Nanos, several of the 15"-24" models, and one 24"-34" unit. I have spent a lot of time in the app to get things right for my tanks so that I can grow plants, keep algae under control, and get to enjoy my tanks when I am around. I will post my own details in a follow-up message, but I have some general tips to share before that. 1. Firmware Updates: When you do firmware updates, it might look like a two-step process, but you just have to be patient since the bootloader is updated first, and then the firmware, so don't interrupt the process or click what looks like an extra prompt. I have not done a firmware update for a while, so be aware that the user experience might change. If you mess up, or need to do the upgrade again, swipe left on your light in the FluvalSmart app for the option to Upgrade or Remove. 2. Copying Programs: You can copy programs between lights, but not between the Plant Nano and the larger models. So I can use the same program on various Nanos, but for my 15"-24" units, I have to create a new program, which I can then share between those units. The way to do this is to "Save as" your program on one configured light, and then go into the matching target light, and choose "Export", and pick the program. I would expect the option to be labelled "Import", but it is not at the time of this post. 3. Power and Timer: These lights do not seem to have any internal batteries to maintain the time. If you have a power outage or interruption, they will assume the power-on time is 00:00 (midnight), and count from there until you access the light via the FluvalSmart app, which will sync the time. 4. Naming and Password: When editing a light, you can use the three dots to Find, Rename, Set password, and Remove password. I recommend naming your lights, especially if you get more than one. You can even sort them by name or type in the light list, so think about the names in context with your room layout. Password might be useful with too-clever kids, or in a professional environment, like a retail store. 5. Modes: For each light, you have three modes, Manual, Automatic, and Professional. Manual gives you Off, or On, with a custom light level and no scheduling. This is the perfect mode to use for photography, showing your aquariums on off-hours, or if you need to make some darkness so you can sleep in, or film other tanks in the same room. Automatic is an easy scheduling mode with presets for Tropical River, Lake Malawi, and Planted, and you can modify or create your own. It only includes seven set points, so you get a ramp up, a sustained period, a ramp down, an evening low-light period (often just a little blue), and a full night period. Professional mode gives you ten set points, which allows you do do a lot more custom lighting choices, including simulating the sky of a certain region, running a siesta (low or no-light midday period, simulating cloud and tree cover), or even dual siestas, which is what I use. I will add more on this later, once I collect my app screenshots. 6. Plant Nano Tips: The mount only fits on rimless tanks without modification. The metal L-bracket can be used backwards for more height and less reach, which is great for emergent plants and hardscape. If you have an odd size tank, you can also add felt feet and run the Plant Nanos right on a clear hood or glass. I donated a Nano to someone to figure out a 3D-printed rimmed mount, and he designed an adapter. Here is the 3D print file from @AquariumThoughts for the rimmed mount for the Plant 3.0 Nano. You will also need an m8-1.25 nut. Fluval Nano Light Rimmed Tank Adapter by AquariumThouhhououghts - Thingiverse WWW.THINGIVERSE.COM From @PlaneFishGuy: "Below is a quick cheat sheet I made for those just wanting to simply reduce the lighting intensity but keep the factory ratios in tact. I started with the factory "daylight setting" from the app when using the Fluval Plant Nano 3.0" More quotes are forthcoming. Please share your own Fluval Plant 3.0 programs. On iOS, the Overview tab shows the lighting program as a graph and a table. Our host, Aquarium Co-Op, carries these lights: Fluval Plant 3.0 LED NANO WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year... Fluval Plant 3.0 LED Light WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year...
  4. Lowes has been marking down lots of led lighting. The website price drop has caused amazon to also drop their price. I was able to buy 5 lights at about 5 bucks each in person at my local lowes. The lights do come with a plug end already installed, unfortunately they do not have an on/off switch. Must use a timer or switch. They fit on a 40 breeder and are 3000 lumens at 4000 kelvin. These dont come close to replacing a fluval or finnex but they are 8 bucks. This ultra budget option may hold you over while you save for a fluval. The best use is probably general lighting hung above or in a rack of tanks.
  5. I am in the process of setting up a 30g Waterbox with CO2 and cannot decide on which lighting system I would like to go with. I would prefer to stick with Fluval due to already having 3 others and I would like to use one app to control all of my lights. I Dimensions of tank are 24"x18"x18" Aesthetically, I would really like to do 2 of the Fluval Nano lights but am worried about coverage/depth with carpet plants. The other option would be the 24" Plant 3.0. Am I going to see any major differences or reasons why the 2 Nanos is a bad idea?
  6. Howdy y'all! I saw the newly released Aquarium Co-Op video earlier, and I heard that Cory mentioned something about testing Aquarium Co-Op lights. Does anyone or Cory know when these lights might come out? If not, any updates on the testing?
  7. I have a 300L aquarium, pool filter sand substrate with a 1/2 inch layer of dirt underneath. 66 watt LED light on 7 hours a day Some plants like various crypts and the tiger lotus are thriving while the sword species and larger plants in the background are struggling, some leaves have holes in too. I have also added some JBL fertilizer balls underneath the sword plants to see if fertilizing was the issue but still no progress. I used to have good success with these plants but after a recent house move I cannot get them to grow nicely. Water hardness is KH 2 - 3 and GH 4 - 5, at my old house it used to be KH 4 - 5 and GH 7 - 8. I have tried dosing flourish, and flourish excel and see no better progress with this plants, I just start to have algae issues when dosing ferts. I wouldn't have thought fertilizers would be the issue as I have dirt substrate and added JBL balls also. Does anybody have any ideas on what I might be missing here to get these swords growing as well as the crypts and tiger lotus are?
  8. Most serious aquarists invest in good lighting—especially for planted tanks. Dropping a few hundred dollars is not unusual for lighting a single aquarium. Now, a confession: I’m a cheapskate. Raising a bunch of kids... I don’t have a lot of excess money. I already spend too much on this hobby, and breed and sell fish to cut the edge off the costs. SO... Here’s my approach to lighting. I buy very cheap $10 LED under-cabinet lights at WalMart. 900+ lumens. 5,000-K. Now, the thing I’ve found is that this light is often too _bright_ for long photo periods. So what I’ve done as a cheap DIY is to lay black cupboard liner underneath these lights. I can move these around to filter more or less light as desired. Here are some examples... Fishroom “dark morning”... liners filtering most light on tanks... Example of liner under LEDs... Here is the tank lighting with liners filtering light... And now here is the same tank with _one_ liner moved so LED is full... Now, here is another tank with a low-end block-light aquarium LED that clips on the sides. I still use cupboard liners. Here is direct light filtration... Here is _partial_ light filtration providing partial light... And here again is the tank with no light filtration... Now, obviously a nice programmable light of high quality will do much, much more. I do sort of envy everyone’s fancy, expensively-lit tanks! 😂 But if you’re on a budget... while still suffering from MTS... this post is for you.
  9. This is my first foray into a planted tank with lights as my last Walstad-style tank sat in a sunny window. I have a Finnex Stingray on my new 20g long tank, and I'm just not a fan of the red, white and blue disco/political convention look of the lights when viewing the tank in the evenings, and feel like the whiteness doesn't enhance the fish the way natural sunlight does. I get that the light is good for plants, so for now I am just going to time the light to be on when I'm at work, which should take care of the plants, but I'd like to know if there's a way to approximate warm incandescent lighting with a different fixture-- reading some posts about lights it seems like with a Fluval light you can choose warm white and eliminate the blue if you want to? What I'd like just for enjoying the look of the tank is the color of light I used to get from the long incandescent bulbs that were over my childhood (1970's) tank. Any advice on getting a warm incandescent light look, welcome, TIA.
  10. the coop sight says Bucephalandra "Green Wavy" needs low light but I'd like to put it in a higher spot in my aquarium that probably gets medium to high light. Is that okay? Some sites say low to high is okay but I thought I'd see what people here's experience is.
  11. Hello! I am interested in getting into more higher tech planted aquarium. I am curious what led lights will do the job for most aquarium plants (with and w/out Co2). I've heard of brands like ONF but pricing seems to be pretty high whereas lights like Finnex stingray 2 I'm concerned won't be strong enough. Any thoughts of what light brands and models would be best? Thank you very much!
  12. I have a 125 gallon with a 4 foot fluval 3.0 and a 3 foot fluval 3.0. It is moderately planted with low to medium light plants. My question is how intense should i start off with these lights. I dont want to go way over board but not too little where the medium light plants wont make it. Because the tank is so wide my two lights dont like the whole tank front to back completely. The top corners are shaded will plants that grow into the shade die from no light. I have crypts, vallisneria, red melon sword, pogostemon stellatus octopus, anubias and java fern. thanks for any help
  13. So for plants to grow (not high tek) could I just use led bulbs for around 2 Java fern,2 dwarf sag. And 2 dwarf chain swords in a 55
  14. I have a few vases and fish bowls filled with substrate and water, I have pothos growing out of one but the other two are empty. I would like to fill them with aquatic plants but i'm not sure the grow light will provide enough exposure for the plants underwater. Has anyone had experience with this? If anyone had any horticulture plant ideas either I would love to hear them! These aren't for little critters just to be clear.
  15. I set up a 150 gallon planted tank a month ago. It is 24" tall. I am using the Fluval 3.0. I started heavily planted. I put in Anubais, Dworf Sag, Vallisneria, cryps, and stem plants. Here is my lighting set up. I was wondering when can I start increasing the brightness and time the light is on? Thank you, Jim T.
  16. Looking into what lights everyone uses for their hatchery. I’ve seen so many used and would like to know what is tried and true for everyone. This will be my first attempt at brine shrimp hatching. I got my hatchery and eggs coming from the coop. I’m excited to feed good quality live brine with my other food combos
  17. I’m wondering if the Finnex Stingray 2 is too powerful a light for my 29 gallon planted community tank and causing me to have bad algae problems. The algae keeps heavily covering my plant leaves, to which I have to constantly rub off. I currently have crypts, java fern, water sprite, anubias, and vallisneria in it. As well as growing on the plant leaves, a lot of the algae is concentrated on the gravel around the vals and crypts where I have root tabs buried. I currently have 12 neons, 4 corys, 1 red eye tetra, and just added 6 nerite snails to help eat the algae. I keep the light on for 7 hours and water parameters are: temp-75, pH-7.6, ammonia-0, nitrite-0, and nitrates 30ppm. Any help with this would be much appreciated.
  18. Hello, I want to begin planting aquatic plants. I was curious if my finnex stingray 2 would be strong enough to grow plants with "medium" light requirements without the aid of co2, specifically dwarf hairgrass, monte carlo or baby tears. I am not looking to achieve the ultimate aquascape immediately, but to provide a good environment for stability and growth. Thanks
  19. so I need lights for my tanks but I can't afford 4-5 finnex stingrays(1 12inch, 2 20 inch, maybe 2 48 inch) I remembered Bentley pascoe made a video on JC&P lights. has anyone used them? what is the color like? can you post a picture of a tank with them? Thanks. btw I prefer to buy from aquarium co op but I can't afford multiple finnex stingrays
  20. We’re slowly setting up a 75 gal. heavily planted tank. Looking for lighting recommendations. Would like this to be a densely planted, but low tech set up (no CO2). Using Activ-flora substrate. Probably stocking with discus, tetras, and L??? Plecos. Temperature will be hot ... so that will limit plant choices some.
  21. I'm not an experienced fish enthusiastic, I'm struggling with plants, light and algae. I planted the aquarium 6 month ago, the plants were doing great, but starting having issues with hair algae. I lower the light intensity and the plants now almost died. The light are ON 5 hors a day. I had crytocoryne wendtii green, they were doing great, now they are just few small leaves. Just bought new plants, easy iron, easy carbon and easy green. I also have root tabs. I change water every week. Any suggestion on what to do? Thank you
  22. Hi everyone I’m looking to set up a 20 gallon long with low to medium light plants no co2. I already have 3 other aquariums a Fluval Flex 15 gallon, Fluval Spec V 5 gallon and another 5 gallon with a fluval aquasky on it. I’m looking for a good 30 inch light I noticed aquarium co op has the finnex stingray but I read in the comments that it doesn’t attach well to the rim of the aquarium does anyone have actual experience with this? Also any other decent light suggestions I could look into would be greatly appreciated!
  23. Anyone own a pocket sized or 'penlight' type flashlight they recommend? I'm in need of one for my job. Looking for a good recommendation.
  24. Hi I’m to lighting any help would be appreciated. I have a 55 gallon tank and was thinking of getting 2 20 inch string rays . My tank has a bar in the middle each half is 23 inches or is it better to get one big 48 inch light. Help please I don’t know what to do.
  25. I broke out my old Finnex Planted+ CC. I am pretty unfamiliar with lighting, although I’ve been doing some research on lighting to try and understand it better. The Finnex CC was barely used, as it was on the last aquarium I had to take down shortly after my brain and spinal surgery years ago. Being a 48” fixture, I strung it through two setups, my crayfish’s (Gandr’s) setup, and over my 20G tall I am starting over. Plant wise, they’re low to medium light plants (I’d say 3 are medium to high): Ludwigia peruensis, Ludwigia arctuata, Cryptocoryne undulatus ‘Red’, Red Tiger Lotus, Bolbitis huedelotii ‘Difformis’, Cryptocoryne petchii, Cryptocoryne balansae, Bucephalandra Kapuas Brownie Ghost, Hydrocotyle tripartita ‘Japan’, and Hygrophila pinnatifida. I’ll have Eco-Complete as a substrate, with root tabs, liquid fertilizers for them, if that’s useful knowledge to you all, if it makes an impact on lighting. I don’t have the specific percentiles decided, because I wanted to see if there were any blatant flaws from this point already. But this is what I was roughly jotting down as a lighting idea, though I’m wondering if it’s adequate, assuming I’ll get the specific percentages in order. Normal would probably represent a higher intensity lighting period, though that will likely need heavy refining. I’m wasn’t necessarily intending for a sort of weird dim siesta time frame, but I get extremely light sensitive at certain points in the day, especially from 3-5pm, any time after 8pm, and in the morning at 9-10am (depending on my symptoms, I can have all day severe light sensitivity, as I already cover most of blinds on the windows with blankets haha, but generally, those are the times I really notice it at). I was curious to see if I would be able to keep the fixture in a certain dimness, but not poorly affecting the plants. Would this work decently, or would it *likely* need adjusting, and if so, what would you all recommend? I do have red some plants, though I’d say they’re not as difficult as most red plants, so I’m sure that will also come into play on any lighting schedule. ALSO, these plants are all new, so if I should start out lower on any hypothetical high intensity lighting periods, feel free to let me know. 🙂
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