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About Me

  1. Hi! As I get my old 20 gallon long set up for cycling and plants, I was wondering if my light is concerned low light? I had retrofitted the stock light over 10 years ago with a compact florescent 55 watt with a reflector. Since I still have one bulb left, I was hoping to start the first year of the tank with what I have and to see how it goes. I'm thinking on Java fern, anubius, and/or crypts initially, and maybe val and a water lilly when I see how things are growing. I really want a tiger lotus, but not sure if the lights are bright enough. Thanks!
  2. so i did two planted tanks at same time. one is 17in and one is 12in. it has been a month ... 2 weeks barely wet/sprayed, then flooded. so the 12in has had this great light on it from day one and the 17 has had its stock light with a 1/4 of the amount of lights. so light is food right. the 12 is the pic with the shrimp and the one with wood is the 17. both started at same time. i got the 17 the same light as the 12 now do yall out there think the plants are stunted? i guess we will see....
  3. Hello, happy Saturday! I have one of those 125 gallon kits from Petsmart, and am looking to upgrade the LED lights that came with it. My tank is currently central/south american cichlids. I am looking at the Fluval Aquasky 2.0s, mainly because i can get them in person. Because of the length I am guessing 2 of the 36" ones to be able to light the whole tank? Or would I be better of with three 24" models? Or is there a different light I should get? Thanks in advance.
  4. I have a 75 gallon established heavy(ish) planted tank with the fluval plant 3.0 light, root tabs, ferts, and co2. I also have a mix of tetras, Plecos, and rainbows. My light period runs on a 1 hour sunrise, 6 hours of daylight, then 1 hour sunset. I go to work, and only see my tank (somewhat) lit up for about 20 minutes. By the time I get home, my lights are out. I’ve been hearing about the 4 on 4 off method. Could I switch my lighting period with no negative consequences? Or could it cause and algae bloom or plant die off? I would really like to be able to come home to a lit up tank, just not at the cost of creating problems. Any advice would be appreciated!
  5. how can I dim my finnex stingray? it is to bright for my 20 long and I don't think my crypts like it. and my anubias/java fern are growing a lot of algae my ideas get some more floating plants, put semi transparent tape on the light. what I can't/don't want to do raise the light, add a dimmer. thanks for the help 🙂
  6. Need some help and sorry for the extended story: I currently run a tank with the following 10 crypt wendettii, 15ish clumps of val, 2 small sword plants 6 small anubias nana petite clumps, 1 struggling bolbitus heuduloti, 4 struggling Java fern, 1 small clump of hydrocoytle tripartia, 2 clumps of struggling Montecarlo, 1 small red tiger lotus, and finally 4 small water lettuce bunches. The tank is a 40 gallon breeder that is used as a grow out tank for my 2 polypterus, my pair of angels, pair of kribs and 2 siamese algae eaters. The fish will be going into a 210 gallon once it's been set-up. The lighting is a 48 inch fluval 3.0 with the attached image. The fertilization schedule is Sunday and Friday 8 pumps of easy green and 2 caps of api leaf zone. And Wednesday 4 pumps of easy green. And I run a tetra whisper 75HOB. With all of that my Nitrates consistently read at 0ppm! And battling bba and brown diatom algae constantly. I know that the balance is off because of my Nitrates levels but I have no clue how to fix it. Can anyone help?
  7. I have a moderately planted community 50 gallon tank with CO2. Currently have light and CO2 set to come on at 7a and turn off at 2p. That allows me to feed the fish in the morning before I leave for work at 7:30 and give the plants enough light but minimize algae. Plants and fish are doing well but I don’t get to enjoy the tank in the evening when I get home, usually around 5p. Can I split the time up that I’m running light and CO2 between morning and late afternoon/evening so that I’m able to get more time to actually see the fruits of my labor? Looking for any suggestions. Thanks.
  8. Hello and good day to everyone. Can you guys see this on my plants leaves? Is it burned from the light? I have a fluval nano.
  9. The Fluval Plant 3.0 lights are really nice, especially for the scheduling and light-level programming available thru the FluvalSmart app. I have about ten of the Plant Nanos, and three of the 15"-24" models, which are the newest of this Fluval line. Since these are currently the only lights I run, I have spent a lot of time in the app to get things right for my tanks so that I can grow plants, keep algae under control, and get to enjoy my tanks when I am around. I will post my own details in a follow-up message, but I have some general tips to share before that. 1. Firmware Updates: When you do firmware updates, it might look like a two-step process, but you just have to be patient since the bootloader is updated first, and then the firmware, so don't interrupt the process or click what looks like an extra prompt. I have not done a firmware update for a while, so be aware that the user experience might change. If you mess up, or need to do the upgrade again, swipe left on your light in the FluvalSmart app for the option to Upgrade or Remove. 2. Copying Programs: You can copy programs between lights, but not between the Plant Nano and the larger models. So I can use the same program on various Nanos, but for my 15"-24" units, I have to create a new program, which I can then share between those units. The way to do this is to "Save as" your program on one configured light, and then go into the matching target light, and choose "Export", and pick the program. I would expect the option to be labelled "Import", but it is not at the time of this post. 3. Power and Timer: These lights do not seem to have any internal batteries to maintain the time. If you have a power outage or interruption, they will assume the power-on time is 00:00 (midnight), and count from there until you access the light via the FluvalSmart app, which will sync the time. 4. Naming and Password: When editing a light, you can use the three dots to Find, Rename, Set password, and Remove password. I recommend naming your lights, especially if you get more than one. You can even sort them by name or type in the light list, so think about the names in context with your room layout. Password might be useful with too-clever kids, or in a professional environment, like a retail store. 5. Modes: For each light, you have three modes, Manual, Automatic, and Professional. Manual gives you Off, or On, with a custom light level and no scheduling. This is the perfect mode to use for photography, showing your aquariums on off-hours, or if you need to make some darkness so you can sleep in, or film other tanks in the same room. Automatic is an easy scheduling mode with presets for Tropical River, Lake Malawi, and Planted, and you can modify or create your own. It only includes seven set points, so you get a ramp up, a sustained period, a ramp down, an evening low-light period (often just a little blue), and a full night period. Professional mode gives you ten set points, which allows you do do a lot more custom lighting choices, including simulating the sky of a certain region, running a siesta (low or no-light midday period, simulating cloud and tree cover), or even dual siestas, which is what I use. I will add more on this later, once I collect my app screenshots. 6. Plant Nano Tips: The mount only fits on rimless tanks without modification. The metal L-bracket can be used backwards for more height and less reach, which is great for emergent plants and hardscape. If you have an odd size tank, you can also add felt feet and run the Plant Nanos right on a clear hood or glass. I donated a Nano to someone to figure out a 3D-printed rimmed mount, so we might see a cool design come out of that. Our host, Aquarium Co-Op, carries these lights: Fluval Plant 3.0 LED NANO WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year... Fluval Plant 3.0 LED Light WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year... Here is the 3D print file from @AquariumThoughts for the rimmed mount for the Plant 3.0 Nano: Fluval Nano Light Rimmed Tank Adapter by AquariumThouhhououghts - Thingiverse WWW.THINGIVERSE.COM Hopefully we can share our schedules and tips to get the most out of these lights! Cheers, Jason
  10. I run a low tech tank and plan to continue low tech for the foreseeable future. I am only using low light plants as well. With aquarium lighting for plants I assume there is a balancing point between duration of daily light and strength/wattage/amount of light. For example can you use really bright lights for a short amount of time and get the same growth as using less powerful lights for longer duration? Obviously there has to be a point where the light is too dim to do anything but lets assume we don't get that low. I'm guessing that with a low tech tank the limiting factor for growth is CO2 so running less light for a longer duration allows the plants more time to absorb the limited amount of CO2 that gets dissolved into the water? Or am I over thinking this? The reason I ask is the engineer in me wants to build my own lights from LED SMDs and I am trying to balance wattage and number of SMDs.
  11. Hi Folks! I have an older version of the Fluval Edge 6L tank. This tank provides a light with the worst coverage possible due to a potentially terrible tank design. #FluvalTrippin I was curious if anyone has tried the Fluval 3.0 Nano light on this tank with any success. I see that it could fit with some tweaking (removing the filter and old light) but want to see if it has been proven yet before the over investment in a light I know is extremely powerful for this setup. Currently using the basic light that comes with it (3W 120V no spectrum listed) and some other lights from another lid that are not good for plant growth, just adding some intensity.
  12. Hello, I am fairly new to having a planted tank and I have become obsessed. I’m hoping to pick someone’s mind on lighting. I have a 125 gallon aquarium with a Finnex+ 24/7 HLC 38w light. I have it on a timer from 8am to 8pm. I’m wondering if A. Is that enough light for my plants (Amazon swords, crypto, jungle Val, Anubis, etc)? And B. Do I put it on max mode all day or is it ok to have it go through the 24hr mode where it starts at a low sunrise, full spectum in afternoon, and then darken for night? My plants are not looking too great right now and I’m wondering if it’s lighting. I use eco complete, root tabs, potassium, and EZ green. Please enlighten me. thanks, jenny
  13. hello, I'm wondering when is it better to add fertilizer to the aquarium before turning on the light or after turning it on
  14. I want to do a planted tank what kind of soil should I use??? And what about lighting I have a 180 gallon tank 24 inches deep
  15. I just bought a new light and would like to shadow someone's settings! I guess it could be considered a fairly heavily stocked tank with Plant load that is. I've got 6 Cichlids no more than 3" and a bristle nose. I've been playing with the light but am curious as to others manual settings My tank is a typical 55 48"Lx12"Wx18"T
  16. After @Cory discussed the water tightness of various lighting options in yesterday's live stream I had no intention of running an experiment. My cats were in the room during the live stream and must have heard the discussion because they ran a humidity torture test on one of my 36" Finnex Stringray lights (the one over the 'Nerm' tank in the dirted tank project). Here was their experimental setup: And from the top: I am not sure how long the cats had the experiment running as I was out for a couple of hours this morning getting cinder blocks and 2 x 12's for the aquarium stand for my two new 75 gallon aquariums. As far as I can tell being completely submerged and running for some period of time had little effect on the functionality of the light. I am pretty sure this voids the warranty, but given the durability of the lights my concerns about the warranty are reduced.
  17. Hi as I assume many people do I decided to buy a aquarium kit before knowing that I will fall in love with the hobby. I got this kit : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HHK92XX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_TJ7QGPNAWB916SSKBSWF after two weeks I realized the kit filter will not do and got a sponge filter, now two months in I think that I need better lights . Now the way this tank built the only place I could hook a light is if I got rid of the kit filter , I do have another sponge filler but the kit filter been running for two months and building bacteria that I will lose . what do you think? Is it ok to take out? also... I have my eyes on the fluval nano light from aquarium co op . Will it be good enough for a 7.5 gallons
  18. New to planted aquariums and trying to balance my tank. I'm getting lot's of algae on my anubias. I fertilize as necessary to keep some nitrates in my take. My lighting needs to be on the high side because I have other plants that I'm trying to grow out to shade the anubias. Would co2 help? Should I reduce the light intensity or duration?
  19. I have a 20 gallon long tank and am trying to figure out how much lighting I should have. I'm not using CO2 and the plants are dwarf sag, limnophila sessiliflora, dwarf sag. The tank came with a 8W, 900 lumen LED light which is on for 10 hours/day - and I'm unsure whether this is enough? The lid has a second slot so I couldget a second light (they make a "plant" version which is also 8W LED but I think has more wavelengths that plants can use). So this would bring me up to 1,800 lumens.
  20. I wanted to add a bit more about why I like dual siestas, but I thought the topic should be separate from the Fluval 3.0 lighting thread. My dual siesta reasoning is 90% human, and 10% for a little bonus in organic soil Walstad tanks. I am not trying to promote it as a special formula for fish rooms or all tanks. I rejoined the hobby in 2018, after running marine tanks for a while until 2011, and under-gravel, plastic plant tanks as a kid. I spent a lot of time researching lighting, especially after I setup my first organic soil tank, and started to understand the balancing act between light, decomposition, algae, and plants. The corner case I was trying to solve involved the following: Organic soil Walstad tanks, bedroom setup, weekday enjoyment vs weekend enjoyment, and algae vs plants. I wanted to be able to grow my plants, let plants out-compete algae, and see what was happening when I was in the room, without disrupting anything. I could setup a weekday schedule, which was frustrating for weekends, or the opposite. There was no way to do a consistent 6-8 hour schedule without missing a ton of tank-viewing time. Before we got Fluval Pro Mode, I watched a few of Bentley Pascoe's videoes about using timers to trick the lights into more control points by resetting to midnight on a power-cycle. I also started reading Diana Walstad's book at the same time, where she discusses soil decomposition, CO2, plants, and algae, as well as siestas. My understanding is that plants ramp up photosynthesis faster than algae, so every slice of darkness-to-light favors the plants for a certain amount of time. In the meantime, with an organic soil substrate, the darkness allows for more production of CO2 from decomposition. The CO2 from decomposition is much lower than CO2 injection, but it is real. Once we got Pro Mode, I tried to find a way to slice up the time schedule so that I could get the equivalent of 6-8 hours of sustained light in a broken-up format, so I could wake up with my tanks at 07:00, enjoy them throughout the day, and have one hour of 1-2% blue from 21:00-22:00. I am getting 6-8 hours of normal light in 14-15 hours. That is what I tried to do with those schedules. I had to use triangle peaks rather than sustained peaks, since we don't have enough set points, but if you were to slide those triangles together, and overlap the middle ramp-ups, and ramp-downs, it would look more like a regular 6-8 hour schedule. I measured the pH changes with my Apex, along with temperature changes. Cheers
  21. Im looking to get more plants into this 75 gallon again but want to get a better understanding on some things before I dive in again on grabbing more plants. There was some dwarf hairgrass and some C helferi in this tank that did really well for awhile(2 months) and then just started to die back until there was nothing left of them and had to take them out. I would like to get a carpet going but again that's why I would like to get a better idea about what I have/need here. Currently the tank has a Fluval Aquasky 2.0 on it. Is this light not suitable for a lot of these medium/high light plants at the 75 gallon depth? Should I replace the 2.0/add a 3.0 with it? These are the things I'm trying to understand. Interesting plant suggestions are also welcome.
  22. Hi All, I am looking to improve my plant growth and think my lighting may be too weak. The tank is 110 gallons. Planted with many varieties of plants from low to medium light, none of the high variety. I am running CO2. I am using a Finnex Ray 2 and plants are doing ok, all but the Vallisneria.. other carpeting plants are doing what they are supposed to. Ammania Gracillis is struggling and repens has died. This is leading me to believe the spectrum is off or intensity. My question is about doubling up the light, adding another light, or removing this one and getting a completely new fixture. From what I have read, the spectrum of light may be a cause of concern for the Ray 2. Would adding a Fluval 3.0 or Beamswork Evo Quad do any good?
  23. I have a 90 gallon planted aquarium. I currently have low light plants but would like to add medium light plants. I am running a Fluval 3.0 LED light. I need to add a second light, is it overkill to add another Fluval 3.0 for medium light plants?
  24. I have a new tank on it's way (55 gallon Acrylic) and I am pretty sure I need new lighting. My current light in my 45 gallon tank is 24W, but I don't have live plants. In my new tank, I am planning on a fully planted aquascape. I am new to plant care so am choosing very easy plant options to start with. I am not sure how much difference the wattage makes - I have read in multiple places and get differing information: 110W, 1W per gal, and 3W per gal. The tank is 36"L X 24" H, it seems that would make a difference as well. I'm also thinking I need one I can put on a timer. Do I need one that slowly increases in brightness and then decreases? There are too many options and I don't know what I "need" vs. "nice to have" for a healthy tank. The more I research, the more "information" there is to sort through! Thanks for any advice!
  25. I'm new to growing plants, I going to gro vallisneria, java fern anubias. Looking for new lighting for a 72" tank any advice? thanks
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