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  1. I apologize if this was addressed somewhere else I did a search and couldn't find anything on it. But my co-op Scarlet temple has started melting away. Should I trim away at it or let it go on its own? I inserted the basket into the easy planter with root tabs. I'm also using the easy green/iron. I added some pictures any suggestions would be appreciated.
  2. The Fluval Plant 3.0 lights are really nice, especially for the scheduling and light-level programming available thru the FluvalSmart app. I have ten of the Plant Nanos, several of the 15"-24" models, and one 24"-34" unit. I have spent a lot of time in the app to get things right for my tanks so that I can grow plants, keep algae under control, and get to enjoy my tanks when I am around. I will post my own details in a follow-up message, but I have some general tips to share before that. 1. Firmware Updates: When you do firmware updates, it might look like a two-step process, but you just have to be patient since the bootloader is updated first, and then the firmware, so don't interrupt the process or click what looks like an extra prompt. I have not done a firmware update for a while, so be aware that the user experience might change. If you mess up, or need to do the upgrade again, swipe left on your light in the FluvalSmart app for the option to Upgrade or Remove. 2. Copying Programs: You can copy programs between lights, but not between the Plant Nano and the larger models. So I can use the same program on various Nanos, but for my 15"-24" units, I have to create a new program, which I can then share between those units. The way to do this is to "Save as" your program on one configured light, and then go into the matching target light, and choose "Export", and pick the program. I would expect the option to be labelled "Import", but it is not at the time of this post. 3. Power and Timer: These lights do not seem to have any internal batteries to maintain the time. If you have a power outage or interruption, they will assume the power-on time is 00:00 (midnight), and count from there until you access the light via the FluvalSmart app, which will sync the time. 4. Naming and Password: When editing a light, you can use the three dots to Find, Rename, Set password, and Remove password. I recommend naming your lights, especially if you get more than one. You can even sort them by name or type in the light list, so think about the names in context with your room layout. Password might be useful with too-clever kids, or in a professional environment, like a retail store. 5. Modes: For each light, you have three modes, Manual, Automatic, and Professional. Manual gives you Off, or On, with a custom light level and no scheduling. This is the perfect mode to use for photography, showing your aquariums on off-hours, or if you need to make some darkness so you can sleep in, or film other tanks in the same room. Automatic is an easy scheduling mode with presets for Tropical River, Lake Malawi, and Planted, and you can modify or create your own. It only includes seven set points, so you get a ramp up, a sustained period, a ramp down, an evening low-light period (often just a little blue), and a full night period. Professional mode gives you ten set points, which allows you do do a lot more custom lighting choices, including simulating the sky of a certain region, running a siesta (low or no-light midday period, simulating cloud and tree cover), or even dual siestas, which is what I use. I will add more on this later, once I collect my app screenshots. 6. Plant Nano Tips: The mount only fits on rimless tanks without modification. The metal L-bracket can be used backwards for more height and less reach, which is great for emergent plants and hardscape. If you have an odd size tank, you can also add felt feet and run the Plant Nanos right on a clear hood or glass. I donated a Nano to someone to figure out a 3D-printed rimmed mount, and he designed an adapter. Here is the 3D print file from @AquariumThoughts for the rimmed mount for the Plant 3.0 Nano. You will also need an m8-1.25 nut. Fluval Nano Light Rimmed Tank Adapter by AquariumThouhhououghts - Thingiverse WWW.THINGIVERSE.COM From @PlaneFishGuy: "Below is a quick cheat sheet I made for those just wanting to simply reduce the lighting intensity but keep the factory ratios in tact. I started with the factory "daylight setting" from the app when using the Fluval Plant Nano 3.0" More quotes are forthcoming. Please share your own Fluval Plant 3.0 programs. On iOS, the Overview tab shows the lighting program as a graph and a table. Our host, Aquarium Co-Op, carries these lights: Fluval Plant 3.0 LED NANO WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year... Fluval Plant 3.0 LED Light WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year...
  3. I wanted to add a bit more about why I like dual siestas, but I thought the topic should be separate from the Fluval 3.0 lighting thread. My dual siesta reasoning is 90% human, and 10% for a little bonus in organic soil Walstad tanks. I am not trying to promote it as a special formula for fish rooms or all tanks. I rejoined the hobby in 2018, after running marine tanks for a while until 2011, and under-gravel, plastic plant tanks as a kid. I spent a lot of time researching lighting, especially after I setup my first organic soil tank, and started to understand the balancing act between light, decomposition, algae, and plants. The corner case I was trying to solve involved the following: Organic soil Walstad tanks, bedroom setup, weekday enjoyment vs weekend enjoyment, and algae vs plants. I wanted to be able to grow my plants, let plants out-compete algae, and see what was happening when I was in the room, without disrupting anything. I could setup a weekday schedule, which was frustrating for weekends, or the opposite. There was no way to do a consistent 6-8 hour schedule without missing a ton of tank-viewing time. Before we got Fluval Pro Mode, I watched a few of Bentley Pascoe's videoes about using timers to trick the lights into more control points by resetting to midnight on a power-cycle. I also started reading Diana Walstad's book at the same time, where she discusses soil decomposition, CO2, plants, and algae, as well as siestas. My understanding is that plants ramp up photosynthesis faster than algae, so every slice of darkness-to-light favors the plants for a certain amount of time. In the meantime, with an organic soil substrate, the darkness allows for more production of CO2 from decomposition. The CO2 from decomposition is much lower than CO2 injection, but it is real. Once we got Pro Mode, I tried to find a way to slice up the time schedule so that I could get the equivalent of 6-8 hours of sustained light in a broken-up format, so I could wake up with my tanks at 07:00, enjoy them throughout the day, and have one hour of 1-2% blue from 21:00-22:00. I am getting 6-8 hours of normal light in 14-15 hours. That is what I tried to do with those schedules. I had to use triangle peaks rather than sustained peaks, since we don't have enough set points, but if you were to slide those triangles together, and overlap the middle ramp-ups, and ramp-downs, it would look more like a regular 6-8 hour schedule. I measured the pH changes with my Apex, along with temperature changes. Cheers
  4. Looking for a digital light that doesn't require a glass top and doesn't collect moisture???
  5. I have a 36g bowfront aquarium equipped w/ CO2 and and a 30in Finnex Planted+ ALC light. I just need some advice on whether my problems are related to lighting. I'm getting fast growth but my plants are not growing bushy but rather spindly. I am hesitant to put more plants in because I am not sure what I am doing wrong. As you can see the long spindly plant behind the Ludwigia is supposed to be Elodea and it barely has leaves. Even the Ludwigia is sparse just a bit. Cabomba is growing long and spindly too. I even have monte carlo and dwarf hair grass, unpictured, that is growing, but slower than I feel it should. Basically in everyone's best estimate, do you think its a lighting issue? I understand this is a tall tank and strong lighting is necessary. Also if you agree its lighting do you think the Fluval plant 3.0 would give me the par needed in this tall tank?
  6. My 40 gallon tank has a 24 inch neon light and I was wondering if moving to a LED light might be brighter for plants??? Do they have any super powerful LED tube lights? 24"? Trying to save some money. Will upgrade reflector too. I did get an interesting LED light for my 10 gallon, for about 35 dollars, (NICREW Classic LED Light G2) I don't know a lot about it like how it would handle and outside timer, but it has controlled daylight and moonlight (blue). It has a timer setting for sun up and down (haven't tried it). Anyway I am on a budget. The misses is kind of keeping an eye on me.
  7. Hi all, I’ve just set up a 160L (30 gallon) planted tank, depth of tank is 16inches. Substrate is fluval plant substrate (basically dirt I think) with a layer of gravel mixed with course sand capping it off. Plants include Vallisneria, crypts, pogostemon stellatus octopus and limnophila sessiliflora. I have a fluval aquasky, and I’m wondering how I should set the lights. You can obviously customise it, and has red, green, blue and white lights that can be all set separately, any ideas how high I should set it? My plan currently is to set the white, green and red lights to 50% and blue to 2% (I hear setting the blue light to high will cause algae) and then gradual increase them by 10% (1% for the blue) increments every week until I’m at 100%. Thoughts? Thanks I advance. Nick
  8. Months ago I started a thread about beginner low-tech plants. But the more I researched, I was discouraged and just ignored plants. Now that I have a chance to rebuild my 10 gallon, and try using anoxic filtration, I thought trying plants might be a good experiment. But I have very big limitations... I have one of the old hoods with incandescent bulbs. I don't want to replace that with a clear lid. And I don't want to run incandescents that much. There is some ambient light on one side of the tank when the blinds are open. But the room itself doesn't get direct sunlight. I could however turn on an LED desk lamp in the room for more light. I wouldn't mind getting one of those cheap submersible LED lights but I know that's not meant for plants. I'm really trying to keep this as low budget as possible. Are there any low light and low tech plants (other than anubias) that can grow in this environment? For experimental purposes, I want to try root feeders, if any options exist. Plants I've been researching but can't find the answer I'm looking for: moneywort, valisneria, Amazon sword. I have seen someone say saggi-something (sorry) kept growing after he abandoned the tank and never turned on the lights. But I'm not sure what that was. I prefer plants I can find in tubes so I don't have to worry about snails, but since I plan on doing a fishless cycle, if snails are there, they might just die off. I'm planning to keep a cold water tank (between 65-75 degrees depending on room temperature, but 72 is the average). Occupied by white cloud minnows (even the fish will be cheap).
  9. Whats yalls opinions on a grow light a couple feet above my aquarium for my pothos and my Lucky Panda chew sticks (Bamboo). I used to run it 10 hrs a day and my plants were growing like crazy but I was having a serious algae issue as well but Id also just purchases the fluval 3.0 and was getting everything balanced out. My plants have since than died back alot seeing how our house is pretty dim so Id like to start using it again but am kinda sketchy of it cause my tanks have never looked so good. This is an old pic when I ran it 8 to 10hrs a day
  10. So I made a little plate form for the FluvalSmart Nano light. I did not like it just sitting on the glass. With the Cobalt tank you can’t use the original glass mount. Which I lost at this point anyway. Oops. I like how it turned out. Kind takes away that glare when you look at the tank from an angle. I was searching the internet for a solution. Did not find one. I know other people with tanks like this one have the same issue. I really like how it turned out. Wanted to share. I’m also about to redo this tank. Trying to get rid of the glass algae. 🙂
  11. Ok, so... my tank is a 10 gallon Aqueon LED and it is situated in my living room. Light cycle is 10am to 8pm. Lights are all on a timer for the sake of consistency. I want a good 2-3 hours a day with the ability to see the tank. But after the lights go out at 8pm my family and I watch television, and so there is additional ambient light/noise, etc. My idea: make a foldout 3 sectioned 'screen' that I could place around the aquarium to block out at least the excess light. Am I crazy? Will this have any practical effect whatsoever?
  12. so I need lights for my tanks but I can't afford 4-5 finnex stingrays(1 12inch, 2 20 inch, maybe 2 48 inch) I remembered Bentley pascoe made a video on JC&P lights. has anyone used them? what is the color like? can you post a picture of a tank with them? Thanks. btw I prefer to buy from aquarium co op but I can't afford multiple finnex stingrays
  13. I'm trying to grow pothos out the top of my aquariums. will this setup work. also what bulbs should I be using to get good growth i black out the room to prevent excess algae from natural sunlight. I am not great with plants and any help would be appreciated.
  14. Thought I'd compare the Fluval 3.0 24 inch with my NICREW Plus LED. First pic is the Fluval on with all settings at 100%; second pic is the NICREW. Fluval seems brighter up top and with richer colors--however, as it's a 24 inch, it doesn't quite illuminate the 'sides' as well as the NICREW, which runs the full length of the tank. (a 29 gallon), leaving them looking a bit darker in-person. The next size up would obviously be far too wide for the tank. Thoughts?
  15. Lowes has been marking down lots of led lighting. The website price drop has caused amazon to also drop their price. I was able to buy 5 lights at about 5 bucks each in person at my local lowes. The lights do come with a plug end already installed, unfortunately they do not have an on/off switch. Must use a timer or switch. They fit on a 40 breeder and are 3000 lumens at 4000 kelvin. These dont come close to replacing a fluval or finnex but they are 8 bucks. This ultra budget option may hold you over while you save for a fluval. The best use is probably general lighting hung above or in a rack of tanks.
  16. I am in the process of setting up a 30g Waterbox with CO2 and cannot decide on which lighting system I would like to go with. I would prefer to stick with Fluval due to already having 3 others and I would like to use one app to control all of my lights. I Dimensions of tank are 24"x18"x18" Aesthetically, I would really like to do 2 of the Fluval Nano lights but am worried about coverage/depth with carpet plants. The other option would be the 24" Plant 3.0. Am I going to see any major differences or reasons why the 2 Nanos is a bad idea?
  17. I have a 300L aquarium, pool filter sand substrate with a 1/2 inch layer of dirt underneath. 66 watt LED light on 7 hours a day Some plants like various crypts and the tiger lotus are thriving while the sword species and larger plants in the background are struggling, some leaves have holes in too. I have also added some JBL fertilizer balls underneath the sword plants to see if fertilizing was the issue but still no progress. I used to have good success with these plants but after a recent house move I cannot get them to grow nicely. Water hardness is KH 2 - 3 and GH 4 - 5, at my old house it used to be KH 4 - 5 and GH 7 - 8. I have tried dosing flourish, and flourish excel and see no better progress with this plants, I just start to have algae issues when dosing ferts. I wouldn't have thought fertilizers would be the issue as I have dirt substrate and added JBL balls also. Does anybody have any ideas on what I might be missing here to get these swords growing as well as the crypts and tiger lotus are?
  18. Most serious aquarists invest in good lighting—especially for planted tanks. Dropping a few hundred dollars is not unusual for lighting a single aquarium. Now, a confession: I’m a cheapskate. Raising a bunch of kids... I don’t have a lot of excess money. I already spend too much on this hobby, and breed and sell fish to cut the edge off the costs. SO... Here’s my approach to lighting. I buy very cheap $10 LED under-cabinet lights at WalMart. 900+ lumens. 5,000-K. Now, the thing I’ve found is that this light is often too _bright_ for long photo periods. So what I’ve done as a cheap DIY is to lay black cupboard liner underneath these lights. I can move these around to filter more or less light as desired. Here are some examples... Fishroom “dark morning”... liners filtering most light on tanks... Example of liner under LEDs... Here is the tank lighting with liners filtering light... And now here is the same tank with _one_ liner moved so LED is full... Now, here is another tank with a low-end block-light aquarium LED that clips on the sides. I still use cupboard liners. Here is direct light filtration... Here is _partial_ light filtration providing partial light... And here again is the tank with no light filtration... Now, obviously a nice programmable light of high quality will do much, much more. I do sort of envy everyone’s fancy, expensively-lit tanks! 😂 But if you’re on a budget... while still suffering from MTS... this post is for you.
  19. This is my first foray into a planted tank with lights as my last Walstad-style tank sat in a sunny window. I have a Finnex Stingray on my new 20g long tank, and I'm just not a fan of the red, white and blue disco/political convention look of the lights when viewing the tank in the evenings, and feel like the whiteness doesn't enhance the fish the way natural sunlight does. I get that the light is good for plants, so for now I am just going to time the light to be on when I'm at work, which should take care of the plants, but I'd like to know if there's a way to approximate warm incandescent lighting with a different fixture-- reading some posts about lights it seems like with a Fluval light you can choose warm white and eliminate the blue if you want to? What I'd like just for enjoying the look of the tank is the color of light I used to get from the long incandescent bulbs that were over my childhood (1970's) tank. Any advice on getting a warm incandescent light look, welcome, TIA.
  20. the coop sight says Bucephalandra "Green Wavy" needs low light but I'd like to put it in a higher spot in my aquarium that probably gets medium to high light. Is that okay? Some sites say low to high is okay but I thought I'd see what people here's experience is.
  21. Hello! I am interested in getting into more higher tech planted aquarium. I am curious what led lights will do the job for most aquarium plants (with and w/out Co2). I've heard of brands like ONF but pricing seems to be pretty high whereas lights like Finnex stingray 2 I'm concerned won't be strong enough. Any thoughts of what light brands and models would be best? Thank you very much!
  22. I have a 125 gallon with a 4 foot fluval 3.0 and a 3 foot fluval 3.0. It is moderately planted with low to medium light plants. My question is how intense should i start off with these lights. I dont want to go way over board but not too little where the medium light plants wont make it. Because the tank is so wide my two lights dont like the whole tank front to back completely. The top corners are shaded will plants that grow into the shade die from no light. I have crypts, vallisneria, red melon sword, pogostemon stellatus octopus, anubias and java fern. thanks for any help
  23. So for plants to grow (not high tek) could I just use led bulbs for around 2 Java fern,2 dwarf sag. And 2 dwarf chain swords in a 55
  24. I have a few vases and fish bowls filled with substrate and water, I have pothos growing out of one but the other two are empty. I would like to fill them with aquatic plants but i'm not sure the grow light will provide enough exposure for the plants underwater. Has anyone had experience with this? If anyone had any horticulture plant ideas either I would love to hear them! These aren't for little critters just to be clear.
  25. I set up a 150 gallon planted tank a month ago. It is 24" tall. I am using the Fluval 3.0. I started heavily planted. I put in Anubais, Dworf Sag, Vallisneria, cryps, and stem plants. Here is my lighting set up. I was wondering when can I start increasing the brightness and time the light is on? Thank you, Jim T.
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