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Mmiller2001

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Everything posted by Mmiller2001

  1. Mmiller2001
    Have you started Paracleanse?
  2. Mmiller2001
    My guess is gill flukes. Paracleanse, per directions. Your GH and KH are fine.
  3. Mmiller2001
    Has he ever been treated with meds?
  4. Mmiller2001
    How long have you had him? What is your ammonia?
  5. Mmiller2001
    Check out CO²Art, they have some affordable kits and are of good quality. https://www.co2art.us/collections/complete-kits
  6. Mmiller2001
    I haven't had any problems. Once your carpet takes hold, you should be good to go.
  7. Mmiller2001
    I think for the sake of beginners, we should follow science here. General Hardness (GH) is the measure of Calcium and Magnesium and other salts in water which determine hardness. Carbonate Hardness (KH) is the measure of carbonates and bicarbonates, the buffering capacity of water. Referred to as Alkalinity. KH 0, GH 8=Hard Water
  8. Mmiller2001
    When I think of water as being soft or hard, I'm always referring to GH. Maybe a typo?
  9. Mmiller2001
    If your going gourami and tetras, you definitely want soft water. People will say that they will adapt, and surly they can. However, a few generations of "adapting" doesn't erase thousands of years of evolution. With your numbers, I'd drop GH and KH in half. The easiest way is to cut your tap water with distilled water. Example, 2 gallons of tap and 2 gallons of Distilled. Then test. Add more distilled if it's too high and more tap if too low. Long term, an RO/DI system become very cost effective.
  10. Mmiller2001
    Being too high. Just make sure some is there. You could stop dosing and test every day and monitor the drop and then dose to the uptake amount. That might be more "effort" than you want to do. I'm a nerd and kinda like testing! Usually, the core problem in non CO2 tanks is light.
  11. Mmiller2001
    If your not dosing CO2, don't get too worried about it. It's been shown that an over abundance in nutrients doesn't cause algae. StephenP2003 is correct, just have "some" there. If you are worried, just do a 50% water change. If you are curious, here's what you are dosing with Easy Green With a CO2 tank, we would increase CO2 or increase PO4 to fight GSA. You might try dosing Excel everyday. I've used it and really like it.
  12. Mmiller2001
    What is your dosing strategy?
  13. Mmiller2001
    I advise against root tabs. You do not need them. Water column dosing is all that required. Master that first. Root tabs are an uncontrolled release of nutrients and make navigating problems more difficult. You will want a good fertilizer, where you will dose to target ppm's. Easy Green, Seachem Flourish, Nilocg Thrive and ADA are all good easy fertilizers. However, they are expensive. I always recommend dry fertilizers. Easy to use and dirt cheap.
  14. Mmiller2001
    There's no problem. I dose 10ppm 3 times a week.
  15. Mmiller2001
    https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/algae-control/how-to-control-misc-green-algae
  16. Mmiller2001
    Go buy a pouch of Purigen and toss it in your filter. That will clear the water in a day or so. You say your GH and KH are okay, but what are they? You need to add calcium and magnesium to your RO water if you are not mixing it with tap water. A 2:1 ratio is fine. Also, you wrote that you add Flourish to the RO water. If that's true, you need to dose the volume of the tank and not just the RO volume.
  17. Mmiller2001
    With a CO² tank, I'd switch to dry fertilizers. This will allow more control over individual components.
  18. Mmiller2001
    I don't think so, seems like your water is pretty close to what they like. But I'm no hard water expert.
  19. Mmiller2001
    Save yourself some pain. Just test Nitrates for now. Everything else looks fine. If your fish are good, then let's focus on plants. And we will monitor plants and algae via our Nitrates test for now. Wait 2 days, and do another water change. How many gallons is your tank?
  20. Mmiller2001
    Thank you.
  21. Mmiller2001
    @Cory
  22. Mmiller2001
    Water change and observe. If it doesn't look like it's going to improve, start an antibiotic.
  23. Mmiller2001
    I would do the peak for 6 hours. Here's mine, the actual intensity of each color doesn't matter. That's just personal visual preference, mostly. What maters is overall intensity. And without CO2, I feel you are well above your target.
  24. Mmiller2001
    Okay, looks like you need to up your water changes. I'd start doing 25% a week. You want to limit your Nitrates to about 10 to 20 ppm. That means, you test Nitrates after a water change and your ppm are those values. When we dose fertilizer, we will see higher Nitrates on our test. Also, I'd up the amount of plants in the tank. Go for one that grows really fast. They tend to pull more nutrients out of the water. They can reduce the need to water change so often. However, I advocate for large and often water changes. I do 50 percent every 7 days.
  25. Mmiller2001
    And these are after a water change? If so, how much water was changed, and did you dose fertilizer after the water change?
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